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Dyllan Nantx
5 One thing nobody's mentioned yet - have you considered leasing instead of purchasing? With your income level and business situation, a lease might actually be more advantageous tax-wise since you wouldn't need to worry about the Section 179 income limitation. You could deduct the business percentage of lease payments as ordinary business expenses against future income when your LLC becomes active.
Dyllan Nantx
ā¢3 Wouldn't leasing have limitations too though? I thought there were luxury auto restrictions on lease deductions as well? Plus don't you lose the potential appreciation of the vehicle as an asset?
Dyllan Nantx
ā¢5 You're right that there are luxury auto limitations on lease deductions, but they work differently than purchase limitations. With leasing, you can deduct the business percentage of your payments, subject to inclusion amounts for higher-priced vehicles. It's often more straightforward than dealing with Section 179 income limitations. As for asset appreciation - vehicles almost always depreciate rather than appreciate, so that's rarely a concern. In fact, with leasing, you avoid the risk of getting stuck with a rapidly depreciating asset. The main advantage in your situation would be that you don't need immediate business income to start taking some deduction, unlike with Section 179 which requires business profit to utilize fully.
Dyllan Nantx
14 Former IRS auditor here. Be VERY careful with this strategy. Taking a full vehicle deduction in an LLC with zero income is a massive red flag for audit. The "business purpose" test is crucial - you need to prove the vehicle is primarily used for legitimate business activities, not personal use disguised as business.
Dyllan Nantx
ā¢1 This is making me nervous now. Would starting with a cheaper vehicle be less likely to trigger an audit? I was also thinking about an SUV but maybe something in the $45k range instead of $95k?
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just fyi - the 1095-c is actually sent to the irs by your employer so they already have this info on file. you just keep it for your records. i got one late too and my tax guy said dont worry about it.
But then why do they even give it to us if they already send it to the IRS? Seems like a waste of paper.
they give it to us because tax regulations require employers to provide employees with a copy. its basically just so you have documentation of what health insurance was offered to you during the year. like how you get a w-2 even though your employer also sends that info to the irs. its so you can verify the info is correct and have proof if theres ever a dispute about what was offered to you.
Ethan Clark
As someone who does payroll, I can confirm the 1095-C is just for your information. The employer submits this data to the IRS directly through Form 1094-C (the transmittal form) along with all employee 1095-Cs. You don't submit this with your taxes and don't need to amend. The only time this matters is if you got Premium Tax Credits (subsidies) from the marketplace and your employer offered "affordable" coverage according to IRS rules. But based on what you said about still qualifying for marketplace coverage, your employer plan must have failed the affordability test.
AstroAce
ā¢What's considered "affordable" though? My employer plan takes like 15% of my paycheck for terrible coverage with a $8000 deductible.
Ethan Clark
ā¢For 2025, employer coverage is considered "affordable" if the lowest-cost self-only plan is less than 9.12% of your household income. It doesn't matter if the coverage is terrible or has a high deductible - the IRS only looks at the premium cost for the employee (not family members) compared to your household income. So in your case, if the premiums really do take 15% of your income just for your own coverage (not including spouse/dependents), then your employer coverage would be considered "unaffordable" and you could qualify for Premium Tax Credits on the marketplace.
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Noah Irving
I think your calculations look right based on the numbers. I moved from an accountant to doing my own taxes last year and had a similar "sticker shock" moment. Here's a tip I wish someone had told me: whenever you have income that doesn't have taxes withheld (like your interest), you should plan to set aside about 25-30% of it for taxes, depending on your tax bracket. For next year, look into making quarterly estimated tax payments for that interest income. The IRS form is 1040-ES. It'll save you from having a big bill next April and might even save you from underpayment penalties if your total tax due is high enough.
Thanks for confirming! Quick question - how do the quarterly payments work? Do I just guess how much interest I'll earn for the year and divide by 4? And if I mess up the estimate, will I get penalized?
Noah Irving
ā¢Quarterly payments are basically your best estimate divided into four payments. The IRS provides a worksheet with Form 1040-ES that helps you calculate the amount. You can base it on last year's interest if you expect similar amounts, or adjust as needed if you know it will be different. If you underestimate, you might face a small penalty, but only on the difference between what you should have paid and what you did pay. The good news is there's a "safe harbor" rule - if you pay at least 90% of this year's taxes or 100% of last year's tax liability through withholding and estimated payments, you generally won't face penalties even if you end up owing more.
One thing to consider - are you contributing to any retirement accounts? With your income level, putting money into a traditional 401k or IRA could reduce your taxable income and potentially lower your tax bill. For 2025, you can contribute up to $23,000 to a 401k if your employer offers one, or up to $7,000 to an IRA. Might be worth looking into for next year's taxes, especially since you have substantial interest income that's adding to your tax burden.
Madison King
ā¢Not OP but I'm in a similar situation. If I max out my 401k at work, does the contribution have to be made before December 31st to count for that tax year? Or do I have until April 15th like with an IRA?
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Have you looked into using any tax software to file your amended returns? I used TurboTax to fix a similar situation with education credits that H&R Block messed up for me. It was pretty straightforward and much cheaper than paying H&R Block's amendment fees.
Kelsey Chin
ā¢I'm considering that option. Did TurboTax charge you for each amended return separately? And were you able to import your previous return information or did you have to enter everything manually?
TurboTax does charge separately for each tax year you amend, unfortunately. I think I paid around $60 per year to file the amendments. You can't directly import from H&R Block to TurboTax, so I had to manually enter the info from my original returns, then add the 1098-T information. It took me about 2 hours per return, but was pretty straightforward. The software calculated the education credits automatically once I entered my 1098-T info. One tip: make sure you have your AGI from the original returns as the IRS uses this to verify your amended return.
Nathan Dell
This happened to me too! I got a CP2000 notice from the IRS about unreported education benefits. If you're worried about penalties, don't be too scared - I ended up just owing the taxes I should have paid originally plus some interest. The IRS was surprisingly reasonable when I called and explained that my preparer messed up.
Maya Jackson
ā¢Did you get hit with any penalties? I'm in a similar spot and freaking out about owing thousands.
Dmitry Smirnov
Your tax guy is probably right, but there's a middle ground option you might consider. You can set up an installment agreement with a very small monthly payment (like $25) while your tax pro continues to resolve the actual issue. This typically stops collection activities including levies, gives you a formal agreement with the IRS, but doesn't require you to pay the full incorrect amount. If your accountant resolves it in your favor, you can get refunded for whatever small payments you made. I went through almost exactly this same situation when my employer issued a corrected W2 but the IRS assessment was based on the original incorrect one. My accountant was working on it, but I couldn't sleep at night worrying about levies, so the small installment payment was my compromise solution.
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Mei Liu
ā¢That's an interesting approach I hadn't thought of. Wouldn't setting up a payment plan be seen as accepting that I owe the amount though? I'm concerned it might complicate things if we're simultaneously arguing that we don't actually owe this money.
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Dmitry Smirnov
ā¢Setting up the installment agreement doesn't mean you're agreeing the amount is correct. The IRS allows you to dispute the underlying tax while still having a payment arrangement in place. You can specifically request that your agreement be processed with "pending audit reconsideration" or "disputed liability" noted on your account. When the dispute is resolved, if it turns out you owe less or nothing, the IRS will refund any excess payments automatically. I made about four $25 payments before my situation was resolved, and I received those payments back with my refund. The peace of mind was worth the temporary $100 out of pocket.
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ElectricDreamer
One important thing nobody has mentioned: the CP504 notice isn't the final step before levy! There's still the Final Notice of Intent to Levy (usually Letter 1058 or LT11), which gives you 30 days' notice AND appeal rights before any actual levy happens. The CP504 is definitely designed to scare you, but you still have time and options. Your tax professional is likely aware of this timeline, which might explain why he's not panicking.
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Ava Johnson
ā¢This is correct. Having worked at the IRS for 12 years, I can tell you there's a specific sequence of notices, and CP504 is not the final step. You'll get at least one more notice with appeal rights before any levy action.
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