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Another thing to consider - the $600 threshold isn't consistent across all crypto activities. Mining, staking rewards, and airdrops have different reporting requirements than trading. For example, mining rewards are reported as income when received (not capital gains), and then you have a capital gain/loss when you eventually sell those coins. Super confusing!
The whole system seems designed to confuse us. I've been holding some coins for years - do I seriously need to go back and figure out what I paid for them if I sell now?
This might be a dumb question, but do I only report when I sell crypto for USD? What about trading one crypto for another? I swapped some BTC for ETH but never converted to actual money.
Not a dumb question at all! Trading one crypto for another (like BTC for ETH) is absolutely a taxable event, even if you never converted to USD. The IRS treats it as if you sold the BTC for USD at market value, and then used that USD to buy the ETH. You have to calculate and report the gain/loss on that BTC based on what you originally paid for it versus its value at the time you traded it. This is one of the most overlooked aspects of crypto taxes that catches people by surprise!
Just a practical tip from someone who's been in your shoes - with your income levels and having a child, you might actually get a refund rather than owing money. The Child Tax Credit is currently $2,000 per qualifying child, which can significantly offset your tax liability. Instead of focusing on allowances (which aren't even used anymore), I'd recommend having a small additional amount withheld from each paycheck if you're worried. Even just $20 extra per paycheck between the two of you would give you a nice cushion against owing anything.
So does the Child Tax Credit mean you get $2,000 back regardless of what you owe? Like if I owed $500 in taxes would I still get $1,500 back? I'm confused about how credits work vs. deductions.
The Child Tax Credit reduces your tax liability dollar-for-dollar, up to $2,000 per qualifying child. It's different from a deduction, which only reduces your taxable income. For example, if you would owe $3,000 in taxes without the credit, the Child Tax Credit would reduce that to $1,000. If you would only owe $1,500 in taxes, the credit would reduce your liability to zero, and you'd potentially get some of the remaining credit as a refund (up to $1,400 per child is refundable). The refundable portion means you can receive it even if you don't owe any tax.
Has anyone else noticed that OP mentioned allowances but doesn't realize the W-4 form changed years ago? My company finally updated their system last year and it was so confusing to switch over.
Yeah but some payroll systems and local forms still use allowances terminology. My company's internal system still asks for "allowances" even though they translate it to the new system behind the scenes. Super confusing for everyone.
Just a practical tip from someone who went through tax court for a similar issue - request your cell phone records from 2021! They show your location data throughout the year and can be powerful evidence that you were in the same location as your children. Also, if you have a co-parenting app or calendar that tracks custody time, get a complete export of that data. Make sure to create a simple calendar visual that clearly shows the days your children were with you - judges appreciate easy-to-understand visuals rather than just stacks of documents. I created a color-coded calendar that made it immediately obvious I had the kids more than 6 months.
That calendar visual idea is brilliant! Did you just use like a regular wall calendar and highlight days, or did you make something digital? I'm not very tech-savvy but could probably figure out a basic spreadsheet if that would look more professional.
I actually did both! I created a digital calendar in Excel where I color-coded days (green for days with me, yellow for days with their mom), and then printed it out. I also made a simple count at the bottom showing the total days for each month and the running total for the year. The judge really appreciated having that visual. Even a hand-colored paper calendar would work fine - the key is making it easy for the judge to see at a glance that you met the six-month requirement. Just make sure you can back up each colored day with some form of evidence. I organized my evidence by month in a binder, so when the judge questioned a particular period, I could immediately turn to that section and show the supporting documentation.
Don't forget about financial evidence! Bank statements showing regular purchases at grocery stores, children's clothing stores, and restaurants near your home can help establish a pattern consistent with having children living with you. Also, get a record of any child support payments you made or received - they help establish the formal custody arrangement. If your children participated in any activities (sports, music lessons, etc.), get attendance records and receipts for those as well. Did you claim your children on your health insurance? Get documentation from your insurance company showing they were covered under your plan in 2021.
This is all good advice but keep in mind the IRS isn't just looking for evidence you SUPPORTED the kids financially - they specifically need proof the kids LIVED with you for more than half the year. I've seen people bring tons of payment receipts but still lose because they couldn't prove physical residency.
Box 12 codes are seriously confusing! For future reference, here's a quick breakdown of common ones that affect your refund: Box 12 D - 401k contributions (pre-tax) Box 12 E - 403b contributions (pre-tax) Box 12 G - 457b contributions (pre-tax) Box 12 AA - Roth 401k (post-tax) Box 12 BB - Roth 403b (post-tax) Box 12 W - HSA contributions (needs to be reconciled on Form 8889) The informational ones that don't affect your refund include: Box 12 DD - Employer health insurance cost Box 12 L - Substantiated employee business expense reimbursements Box 12 P - Moving expense reimbursements (now mostly taxable post-2018) H&R Block should be detecting the difference, but sometimes it glitches.
What about Code C? My W-2 has that one and a pretty large amount next to it. When I entered it, my refund changed too. Is that one of the codes that matters or not?
Code C represents taxable cost of group-term life insurance over $50,000. This amount has actually already been added to your wages in Box 1 of your W-2, so it's already factored into your income. If your refund changed when entering it, the software might have misinterpreted it or you might have entered it in an additional field elsewhere. The important thing to know is that this amount has already been taxed in your regular wages, so you shouldn't be taxed on it again. Make sure you're only entering it in the specific W-2 box 12 field and not as additional income elsewhere.
I had the exact same issue with H&R Block and almost paid for their expert help. First time I used them after switching from TurboTax. Does anyone know if TurboTax handles these box 12 codes better? Thinking about switching back.
I've used both and honestly, TurboTax isn't any better with explaining box 12 codes. They both adjust your refund when you enter them but don't clearly explain why. The difference is TurboTax charges even more for their "expert help" than H&R Block does! If you want actual explanations, use one of the tools others mentioned or go with a free option like FreeTaxUSA.
CyberSiren
I use a combination of digital and physical systems. For physical receipts that I need to keep (like major purchases), I use an expanding file folder with 12 pockets - one for each month. Anything business-related gets highlighted. At tax time, I just grab the whole thing. For everyday receipts, I use the Microsoft Excel app on my phone that lets me snap a pic, categorize it, and it automatically adds the amount to my expense tracking spreadsheet. It takes like 30 seconds per receipt but saves hours at tax time. The key for me was making a habit of dealing with receipts immediately - either toss them if they're not tax-relevant or process them right away. No more receipt piles!
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Miguel Alvarez
ā¢Do you need to maintain the physical receipts for tax purposes or are the digital scans enough if you get audited? I'm trying to go completely paperless but worried about IRS requirements.
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CyberSiren
ā¢The IRS actually accepts digital receipts as long as they're legible and contain all the required information (date, amount, vendor, etc.). The key requirement is that digital records must be as accurate as paper ones and accessible throughout the period of limitations for assessment. For most situations, scanned receipts are perfectly fine for audit purposes. I still keep physical receipts for major purchases or anything unusual that might raise audit flags, but for day-to-day business expenses, my digital system has been sufficient. I had a small business tax review a couple years ago and my digital documentation was completely accepted without issues.
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Zainab Yusuf
Has anyone tried those receipt organizers that scan and automatically tag receipts for tax purposes? I saw a few on Amazon but the reviews are all over the place. My tax situation isn't super complicated but I def need a better system than my current "shoebox full of crumpled paper" approach lol
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Connor O'Reilly
ā¢I tried the NeatReceipts scanner last year and honestly it was pretty disappointing. The software was clunky and it misread a lot of receipts. I had better luck with a regular document scanner app on my phone plus a simple spreadsheet to track categories. Way cheaper too!
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