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Just to add another perspective - I switched from S-corp to C-corp last year and regretted it. The double taxation was worse than I expected, plus the accounting costs were higher because C-corps require more complex bookkeeping and tax filings. Another thing nobody mentioned is that S-corps give you the Qualified Business Income deduction (Section 199A) which can be up to 20% of your business income. C-corps don't get this. In my situation, that deduction was worth about $10k, which totally offset any perceived benefits of the C-corp tax rates. I'm in the process of converting back to S-corp for 2025. Think carefully before making this change!
Thanks for sharing your experience! I hadn't even considered the QBI deduction. Do you remember how complicated the process was to switch from S to C? And now you're switching back? Did you use a specific service or accountant to help with the transition?
The conversion process itself wasn't too difficult - it's basically filing Form 8832 to elect C-corp status. The real complications came afterward with the new tax reporting requirements and accounting changes. I worked with my accountant who specializes in small business taxation. If you're considering a change, I'd definitely recommend working with a specialist rather than doing it yourself. There are timing considerations and potential tax implications that aren't obvious. For example, after you revoke S-corp status, you generally can't re-elect it for 5 years without IRS permission, which is why I'm having to go through a more complex process to switch back.
Has anyone actually calculated the specific difference between S and C corp with real numbers? Like in the OP's case with 72k W2 income and let's say 60k business income?
I did this calculation recently for a similar situation. Here's a simplified breakdown: S-corp: 60k business income passes through. Assuming a reasonable salary of 35k (subject to payroll taxes) and 25k as distribution (no SE tax). The 60k is taxed at personal rates, but with QBI deduction on qualified income. Approx total tax: $12-14k depending on deductions. C-corp: Corporation pays 21% on 60k = $12.6k. Then any money taken out as dividends gets taxed again at 15% (assuming qualified dividends). So if you took all remaining $47.4k as dividends, that's another $7.1k in tax. Total: $19.7k. This is simplified and excludes other factors, but illustrates why S-corps often work better for smaller businesses where owners need to take most profits out.
Another option that hasn't been mentioned - if you have good credit, you might consider a personal loan to pay the IRS in full, then pay back the loan over time. Sometimes the interest rate on a personal loan can be lower than the combined interest and penalties from the IRS (which can run about 8-10% annually when combined). Credit unions often have the best rates. I did this a few years back when I owed about $9k, got a loan at 6.5% which saved me money versus the IRS plan.
Thanks for suggesting this. Do you know if taking out a loan would impact my credit score significantly? Mine's currently around 720 and I'm trying to save up for a house in the next year or two.
There would be a small initial dip when the lender does a hard credit pull, maybe 5-10 points. Then your score might drop a little more when the new account appears, reducing your average account age. However, if you make all payments on time, your score should recover within a few months and potentially go even higher as you demonstrate responsible payment history. The biggest risk to your score would be from missing payments on the loan, which would be much worse than the temporary dips from opening the account.
Just a heads up - don't ignore this or miss the filing deadline even if you can't pay! File on time and pay whatever you can, even if it's just a small amount. The failure-to-file penalty is much worse than the failure-to-pay penalty. Failure-to-file is 5% of your unpaid taxes for each month your return is late, up to 25%. Failure-to-pay is only 0.5% per month, up to 25%. Also, make sure you request the payment plan before the tax deadline if possible. I learned this the hard way!
This is super important advice. I put off filing one year because I couldn't pay, and those failure-to-file penalties were brutal. Ended up owing way more than I would have if I'd just filed and set up a payment plan right away.
Something that gets overlooked in these discussions - consider the exit strategy before picking a location. I set up in Delaware thinking it was always the best, but when I sold some equity positions last year, I faced unexpected tax complications because of California's aggressive approach to taxing residents with out-of-state entities. Make sure you understand the interaction between federal capital gains taxes and state tax obligations for equity sales. Your holding company location affects more than just annual taxes - it has major implications when you eventually sell those investments.
Would you mind explaining a bit more about those unexpected complications with California? I'm in a similar situation with a Delaware entity but live in California.
Sure thing. California takes the position that if you're a CA resident managing the holding company, they can tax the income and capital gains regardless of where the entity is formed. What happened in my case was that I had created a Delaware holding company owning several startup equity positions, but since I was making all investment decisions from California, the state considered it a California business. When I sold two of my positions for a significant gain, California required me to pay state tax on the entire gain, effectively ignoring the Delaware structure. I also had to deal with California's "doing business" fee since they deemed my holding company to be operating in California. The real surprise was that I still had to pay Delaware franchise tax while also being fully taxed by California - basically getting the downsides of both states without the expected benefits of Delaware.
Has anyone considered using an IRA to hold startup equity instead of a holding company? I've heard this can provide tax advantages for certain types of investments, especially if you expect significant appreciation.
That's actually a complicated area. You can use a Self-Directed IRA for certain equity investments, but there are prohibited transaction rules that can easily be violated with startup equity. If you're actively involved with any of the companies, it's especially problematic. Plus many equity compensation types like ISOs and NSOs can't be held in IRAs directly.
Just a heads up - even if your platform gives you nice summary documents, DOUBLE CHECK THEM! My brokerage messed up my cost basis for some transferred assets last year and reported much lower costs than what I actually paid, which made it look like I had huge gains. Had to file a corrected tax return which was a massive headache. Now I keep my own separate spreadsheet tracking everything just to verify what they report.
How do you track stuff that you've held for years across multiple platforms? I've got some stocks I originally bought in 2018 on Robinhood, transferred to Fidelity in 2021, and then sold this year. No idea how to verify the correct cost basis with all those moves.
You need to keep your original purchase confirmations and transfer documentation. Any time you transfer assets between brokerages, print or save PDF copies of your statements showing the cost basis information before the transfer happens. For your specific situation, log into your old Robinhood account and download your account statements from 2018 that show the original purchase prices. Even if you've closed the account, you should still have access to your tax documents for several years. Then compare those original costs with what Fidelity is reporting on your 1099-B this year. If there's a discrepancy, you'll need to manually correct it on Form 8949 when filing your taxes.
I had 430+ trades last year and used FreeTaxUSA. Here's what actually happened: 1) Got 1099-B from my broker with a summary page showing total proceeds, cost basis, and gain/loss 2) FreeTaxUSA let me enter just those summary amounts for short-term and long-term 3) BUT I also had to attach a complete transaction list to my tax return So you don't have to manually enter each trade, but you do need to include the detailed list with your filing. Some tax software will upload this automatically, but with FreeTaxUSA you might need to add it as an attachment.
Olivia Evans
16 One thing nobody's mentioned yet - check if you qualify for an Offer in Compromise. If you genuinely cannot pay the full amount, the IRS might accept less than the full payment. You can use the pre-qualifier tool on the IRS website to see if you might be eligible: https://irs.treasury.gov/oic_pre_qualifier/ I went through this process after a messy divorce left me with tax debt I couldn't handle. The process is lengthy and you need to provide extensive financial documentation, but it can be worth it if you truly can't pay.
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Olivia Evans
ā¢11 Is there a minimum amount of tax debt for an Offer in Compromise to be worth it? I owe about $6,500 which is a lot for me right now but not like tens of thousands.
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Olivia Evans
ā¢16 There's no minimum amount required for an Offer in Compromise, but the process is intensive enough that it's usually pursued for larger debts. For $6,500, a payment plan might be simpler unless you have extreme financial hardship. The IRS looks at your ability to pay, income, expenses, and asset equity. They essentially ask: "Could we reasonably expect to collect more from you over time than what you're offering now?" If your financial situation is truly dire with no improvement in sight, it could be worthwhile even for smaller amounts.
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Olivia Evans
20 Whatever you do, DO NOT ignore this or fail to file! I made that mistake a few years back and ended up owing way more in penalties and interest than my original tax bill. File your return by April 15 even if you can't pay a cent. Also, credit card payments are technically an option through third-party processors, but they charge processing fees around 2% AND you'd be paying the high credit card interest. Usually better to go with an IRS payment plan where the combined penalties and interest often work out to less than credit card interest.
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Olivia Evans
ā¢3 Would it make sense to put like half on a credit card (the amount I could pay off in 2-3 months) and then get on a payment plan for the rest? My tax bill is around $4300 and I could probably handle about $2000 on my card.
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