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One thing that wasn't mentioned yet - make sure you're tracking your AMT credit carryforward correctly. Form 8801 is used not just for calculating your current year credit but also for tracking credits from previous years that you couldn't use up. In your case with the stock options going from $3.50 to $14 (for AMT) and then selling at $1.15, you've got both an AMT credit situation AND a capital loss. Keep these separate in your documentation - they're related but handled differently on your tax forms.
Thanks for this! I'm a bit confused though - when I file the amended return for my 2023 taxes to claim the AMT credit I missed, do I also need to file Form 8801 for my 2024 return to track any unused credit? Or does the amended 2023 return take care of everything?
You'll need to file Form 8801 with your 2024 return to calculate how much of your AMT credit from 2023 you can use in 2024. The amended 2023 return establishes that you paid AMT and are entitled to the credit, but it doesn't automatically apply that credit to future years. Think of the amended 2023 return as creating the credit, and Form 8801 on your 2024 return as using (or tracking) that credit. If you can't use the entire credit in 2024, you'll file another Form 8801 with your 2025 return, and so on until you've used up the entire credit.
Has anyone used TurboTax to handle AMT credit carryforwards? I'm wondering if it properly tracks them year to year or if I need to manually keep records. I'm in the same boat with worthless stock options that triggered AMT.
TurboTax Premier and above do handle AMT credits and carryforwards if you use it consistently year to year. The key is importing your previous year's return so it can pull in the AMT information. In your first year claiming the credit, you may need to manually enter some information from your prior year return if you didn't use TurboTax before.
Don't forget you also need to potentially file Form 1099-INT if you received $10 or more in interest! This is separate from the Form 1098 requirement others mentioned. Since you received $3,200 in interest, you definitely need to file this form too. Also, depending on how your agreement is structured, you might actually need to amortize the payments between principal and interest. If your agreement doesn't specifically state how much of each payment is interest vs. principal, you'll need to use an amortization schedule to figure it out.
Wait, so I need to file both Form 1098 AND Form 1099-INT? That seems redundant. Couldn't I just file one of them? And regarding the amortization - our agreement does specify an interest rate (5%), but not exactly how much of each payment is principal vs interest. Does that mean I need to create an amortization table?
Yes, you may need to file both forms as they serve different purposes. Form 1098 reports mortgage interest that the borrower has paid to you, which they can potentially deduct. Form 1099-INT reports interest you've paid to someone else. However, in your specific case, since this is mortgage interest being received by you (not interest you're paying out), you likely only need Form 1098, not 1099-INT. I apologize for the confusion. Since your agreement specifies a 5% interest rate but doesn't break down each payment, you should definitely create an amortization table. This will help you properly track how much of each payment is interest versus principal reduction. You need this to accurately report your interest income and to provide correct information to your family member for their potential deduction. Most spreadsheet programs have templates for creating these tables.
I was in this exact situation and screwed it up royally the first year. If the property you sold wasn't your primary residence, remember you have to pay attention to capital gains too. The interest income from the seller financing is only part of what you need to report. For the $3,200 interest, make sure you're tracking it properly in the year it was actually received, not accrued (assuming you're a cash basis taxpayer like most individuals). And watch out because receiving payments in installments might make you eligible for installment sale treatment on Form 6252, which can actually be beneficial for spreading out any capital gains.
This is a really good point about installment sales! I did a seller-financed deal last year and completely missed filing Form 6252. Had to file an amended return. The property was actually a rental I sold to a tenant, so I had depreciation recapture to deal with too. That's a whole other can of worms!
Little tip from someone who sells stuff online regularly: Keep ALL your receipts for expensive purchases, even personal ones. Take photos of them and store them in the cloud. You never know when you might sell something and need to prove your cost basis. Also, PayPal only sends 1099-Ks if you exceed certain thresholds ($600 as of 2025). If you're selling personal items occasionally, it's not a business, but you still need to account for any 1099-Ks you receive.
Does anyone know if this would be different if I was selling things regularly? Like I sell my old electronics every year when I upgrade. Does that make it a "business" for tax purposes?
The distinction between hobby/personal sales and a business depends on several factors, not just frequency. The IRS looks at whether you're trying to make a profit, how much time you spend, how you conduct the activity, and if you depend on the income. If you're just selling your own used personal items (even if you do it yearly), that's generally not a business. You're just recouping some value from your personal property, especially if you're typically selling at a loss compared to what you paid. However, if you start buying items specifically to resell at a profit, that crosses into business territory.
Has anyone actually gotten audited over a 1099-K for personal items? I'm just wondering how serious the IRS is about these PayPal transactions.
One thing nobody's mentioned is that you can deduct EITHER sales tax OR state income tax when itemizing - not both! Most people in states with income tax are better off deducting their state income tax unless they made huge purchases. Also, if you're a new homeowner, don't forget to include property taxes in your calculation. Property tax + mortgage interest + charitable donations + either sales OR income tax... these all add up and might push you over the standard deduction threshold, especially if you're in a high-tax state.
Thanks for mentioning this! I'm in Washington state so we don't have state income tax - would that make the sales tax deduction more valuable for me compared to someone in a state with income tax?
Yes, that makes a big difference! Since Washington has no state income tax, the sales tax deduction becomes much more valuable for you. Residents of states without income tax (like Washington, Florida, Texas, etc.) almost always benefit more from deducting sales tax. In your case, since you mentioned being a new homeowner with renovations and furniture purchases, you might actually be closer to making itemizing worthwhile than you think. Your property taxes alone could be substantial, and when combined with mortgage interest and your higher-than-average sales tax from major purchases, you might cross the threshold where itemizing beats the standard deduction.
Don't overthink this - I've been doing my own taxes for years and here's my simple rule: unless you have a mortgage over $400k or donate like 10% of your income to charity, just take the standard deduction and save yourself the headache. The tax law changes a few years back made the standard deduction so high that it rarely makes sense to itemize for most people.
This is oversimplified advice. It completely depends on your state's tax situation and individual circumstances. I have a modest mortgage but live in NJ with crazy property taxes, and itemizing saves me over $2000 compared to the standard deduction. Everyone's situation is different.
Ravi Choudhury
One thing nobody mentioned - if you're expecting a refund from 2022, you need to file within 3 years of the original due date to get your money! For 2022 taxes, that means you have until April 2026 to claim any refund. After that, the money goes to the government permanently.
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CosmosCaptain
ā¢Are you sure about that 3-year deadline? I thought if you're owed a refund, there's no penalty for filing late and you can do it anytime?
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Ravi Choudhury
ā¢Yes, I'm 100% certain about the 3-year deadline for claiming refunds. The IRS gives you three years from the original filing deadline to submit a late return and still get your refund. After that window closes, any refund you were entitled to becomes government property - you lose it completely. This is different from owing taxes, where there's no deadline to file (though penalties and interest keep accumulating). But for refunds, it's a use-it-or-lose-it situation with a strict 3-year limit. Since 2022 taxes were originally due in April 2023, you have until April 2026 to claim any refund for that year.
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Freya Johansen
fyi if u moved states midyear u might get hit with higher taxes than u expected... happened to me in 2022 when i moved from texas (no state tax) to california. had to pay state tax on whole years income even tho i only lived there 4 months!!!! make sure u check the rules for ur specific states
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Omar Fawzi
ā¢That doesn't sound right. Most states only tax you for the portion of the year you were a resident. Did you try filing as a part-year resident?
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