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Something important that hasn't been mentioned - you need to watch out for state-level taxes too, not just federal. Since you mentioned the property is in a state where neither you nor your brother live, you may be subject to non-resident state income taxes when you sell. Some states will withhold a percentage of the sale proceeds from non-residents. You may need to file a non-resident state tax return in the state where the property is located to potentially get some of that withholding refunded.
I hadn't even thought about the state tax implications! Do you know if all states have these non-resident taxes on property sales, or does it vary by state? The property is in Missouri, and I live in Colorado if that helps.
It definitely varies by state. Missouri does have a requirement for non-resident withholding on real estate sales. They generally require 2% of the sale price to be withheld, but the exact requirements depend on your specific situation. You'll want to look into Form MO-2NR (Statement of Income Tax Paid) which the buyer may need to complete. However, if your sale qualifies for certain exemptions, you might avoid the withholding. Missouri has specific rules about when withholding is required for non-residents. After the year ends, you'll need to file a Missouri non-resident state tax return to report the gain and potentially get a refund of any excess withholding. The good news is that Colorado will generally give you a credit for taxes paid to Missouri to avoid double taxation.
Has anyone mentioned the possibility of a 1031 exchange? If you're planning to invest in other real estate, you might be able to defer the capital gains taxes.
A 1031 exchange wouldn't work well here. Those are for investment or business property, and inherited land that's being partially sold to family doesn't typically qualify. Plus, 1031 exchanges have strict timing requirements (45 days to identify replacement property, 180 days to close) and require a qualified intermediary to hold funds. Doesn't sound like what OP needs.
The way I've always understood tax brackets (and how I built my spreadsheet) is using the "taxable income" concept: If your taxable income is LESS THAN OR EQUAL TO the upper limit of a bracket, then that's your bracket. So $50,175 is in the 12% bracket, while $50,176 is in the 22% bracket. For calculation purposes, I use this formula: - 10% of the first $12,350 - 12% of the amount over $12,350 up to $50,175 - 22% of the amount over $50,175 up to $107,050 And so on... This way there's no confusion about missing dollars. The key is to calculate the tax on the amount WITHIN each bracket, not the bracket boundaries themselves.
This is how I do it too, but I still run into small discrepancies when I check my work against online calculators. Is there a specific formula you use in Excel/Google Sheets? I feel like I'm still missing something.
I use nested IF statements in Excel to determine which portion of income falls into each bracket. For example: For the 12% bracket: =IF(Income>12350,IF(Income>=50175,50175-12350,Income-12350),0)*0.12 This says "if income is greater than $12,350, then either take the full bracket amount ($50,175-$12,350) if income exceeds the top of this bracket, or just take (Income-$12,350) if income falls within this bracket. Multiply the result by 12%." Do this for each bracket, then sum them all up. The key insight is treating the upper boundary as inclusive (using >= for comparing to the upper limit), so $50,175 gets taxed at 12%, not 22%. This matches official IRS calculations exactly.
I think we're all overthinking this lol. The tax calculation difference you're seeing is probably just a rounding error in your spreadsheet. The IRS actually rounds to the nearest dollar anyway on the final tax owed, so being off by a few cents per bracket is meaningless in real life.
Actually, precision matters here. While the final tax amount is rounded, the calculations themselves need to be exact. I learned this the hard way when my "close enough" spreadsheet ended up being off by $237 compared to my actual return because of accumulated small errors in multiple bracket calculations.
Another thing to try - check if your W-2 is available on the IRS website. You can create an account at irs.gov and sometimes they have W-2 info reported by employers even if they didn't send it to you. I found mine there last year when my employer claimed they "mailed it" but it never showed up.
Is this the "Get Transcript" feature? I looked at that but got confused about which option to select.
Yes, it's through the Get Transcript service. You'll need to select "Wage and Income Transcript" when prompted for the type of transcript. This will show information from forms submitted to the IRS including W-2s and 1099s. Creating an account can be a bit of a process since they've increased security measures. You'll need your ID, social security number, and some financial account numbers for verification. Once you're in, you can access transcripts for the current tax year and previous years.
You should definitely report them to your state's labor department too! It's illegal for them to withhold your W-2. My cousin's employer did this and got fined pretty heavily when the state found out. They were doing shady stuff with the payroll taxes.
Just to add another perspective - the 'c' markings sometimes appear on tax transcripts as well, not just on physical documents. They typically show up in the IRS internal systems as verification codes. If you order your tax transcript online through the IRS website, you might see these marks in the digital version too. If you're updating previous returns for 2025 filing season, make sure you're using Form 1040-X for amendments and reference your original tax year. Those 'c' marks won't affect your amendment process at all.
Do we need to request transcripts before filing amendments? I assumed I just need my original return copy. Also, how far back can you amend returns? I might have similar issues with my 2021 taxes.
You don't absolutely need transcripts before filing amendments, but they're extremely helpful to ensure you have the exact information the IRS has on file. Having your own copy of your return is good, but the transcript shows how the IRS actually processed it, which sometimes differs from what you submitted. For amended returns, you generally have 3 years from the original filing date or 2 years from when you paid the tax, whichever is later. So for 2021 taxes (typically filed in 2022), you should still be within the amendment window for the 2025 filing season. I'd recommend grabbing the transcript though - it makes the amendment process much smoother when you can see the IRS's internal codes and processing marks.
I just wanted to share that my tax preparer always marks items with 'c' when she's checked them during preparation - it's a common notation system among tax professionals too, not just the IRS. Might be why you're seeing those marks. Is it possible the document is from your preparer and not directly from the IRS?
That's a good point about tax preparers! My accountant uses checkmarks and little symbols all over my returns before submitting. I always thought it looked so messy but I guess that's their system.
Thanks for bringing this up! I double-checked, and you're right - the documents are actually from my tax preparer's office, not directly from the IRS. They sent me copies of what they submitted. That makes so much more sense why there are these little marks all over them. I feel kinda silly now for worrying, but at least I understand what I'm looking at. Guess my preparer was just marking things they verified before submitting. Learning something new about taxes every day!
Ruby Blake
Just to add another data point - I paid my taxes with a credit card last year to hit my Amex Platinum bonus. My accountant marked "will not submit payment with return" and then I went to IRS.gov and used their approved processor links. I used Pay1040.com which had the lowest fee at the time (1.87%). The whole process took maybe 5 minutes. Just had to enter my SSN, tax year, payment amount, and card info. Got an email confirmation right away. No issues at all and my tax transcript later showed the payment posted correctly. The bonus points were definitely worth the processing fee in my case.
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Micah Franklin
•Did you have to tell the IRS anything about using the credit card payment processor, or do they automatically match the payment to your tax account?
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Ruby Blake
•They automatically match the payment to your tax account based on the SSN and tax year you enter when making the payment. You don't need to notify the IRS separately or reference anything specific from your return. The payment processor sends all the necessary details to the IRS with your payment. When I checked my tax transcript a few weeks later, it showed the payment properly applied to my account. The whole system is designed to work without any additional steps needed from you.
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Ella Harper
Omg I almost made a huge mistake with this exact situation last year! My tax guy told me to write my credit card number ON THE TAX FORM!!! I was like hell no and did some research. Found out the IRS NEVER wants your actual card number on tax forms!! That would be a security nightmare. What you do is file your taxes normally, then go to IRS.gov, click the "Pay" button, and it gives you links to the official payment processors. I used ACI Payments Inc and it was super easy. Yes the fees kinda suck (I paid like $90 on a $4500 tax bill) but I got enough points for a free flight to Vegas so totally worth it lol
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PrinceJoe
•This is helpful! How long did it take for the payment to show up in your IRS account after you paid through the processor?
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