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Another important thing to know: if you did a direct rollover (where the money went straight from one institution to another), you won't owe any taxes on that money. If you did an indirect rollover (where you received a check), make sure you deposited it within 60 days or you could face taxes and penalties. The 5498 form is basically just documentation of the rollover transaction - Box 2 shows your rollover contributions. You don't need to enter this info on your tax return if it was a direct rollover. If you get confused when using tax software, there's usually a section specifically about rollovers where you can indicate this was a rollover, not a contribution.
Thank you - that's helpful! It was definitely a direct rollover, so I never actually touched the money. I was mainly confused because TurboTax kept asking me about IRA contributions and I wasn't sure if the rollover counted as one. Sounds like I don't need to enter anything about the rollover when filing?
You're welcome! Since it was a direct rollover, you generally don't need to report it on your tax return at all. Most tax software will ask if you made any "contributions" to an IRA, but a rollover isn't considered a contribution in the tax sense. The only exception would be if your 1099-R (which you should have received from Principal showing the distribution) has a distribution code that doesn't clearly indicate it was a rollover. In that case, you might need to clarify in your tax software that it was indeed a qualified rollover. But in most direct rollover cases, everything is properly coded and you don't need to take any action.
Quick note - make sure you're checking your 1099-R forms too, not just the 5498s. The 1099-R shows the distribution from your old 401k, while the 5498 shows the receipt into your new IRA. Both forms should have codes indicating this was a rollover (usually code G on the 1099-R). If everything was done correctly, the taxable amount on your 1099-R should be zero. Double check that to make sure you don't accidentally pay taxes on money that should remain tax-deferred!
One important thing nobody's mentioned yet - make sure you're also claiming Foreign Tax Credit (Form 1116) on your US taxes for any Japanese tax you've already paid! Even after you get the Form 6166 certificate and reduce future withholding, you should get credit for past payments. Also check if your specific work falls under "independent personal services" in Article 14 of the treaty rather than business profits in Article 7. The distinction can matter depending on how long you physically worked in Japan (if at all) and how your business is structured.
Thanks for mentioning the Foreign Tax Credit! I actually haven't been claiming that - do you know if I can amend previous years' returns to claim it? I've been paying both full US taxes AND the Japanese withholding for about 3 years now.
Yes, you absolutely can amend your previous returns to claim the Foreign Tax Credit! You generally have 3 years from the original filing deadline to file an amended return (Form 1040-X) along with Form 1116 for the Foreign Tax Credit. For each of those past 3 years, you'll need documentation showing the Japanese taxes withheld. The credit can significantly reduce your US tax liability since it's a dollar-for-dollar reduction (not just a deduction). Many people in your situation end up getting substantial refunds. Just be aware that the Form 1116 is somewhat complex, so using tax software or a professional familiar with international taxation might be helpful for the amendments.
Quick note about timing - if you're planning to apply for Form 8802, do it WELL before you need it. I applied in January thinking I'd get the certificate by March at the latest. It's now June and I'm still waiting! The IRS is seriously backlogged with these. If you need it urgently, include a cover letter explaining the financial impact and potential loss, and mark the envelope as "URGENT" though there's no guarantee that helps.
You might want to try contacting the Taxpayer Advocate Service if you've been waiting that long. They can sometimes help with unreasonable delays. Worth a shot at least!
The difference might be due to certain pre-tax deductions that don't count toward Social Security but do count for Medicare and federal income tax. Common examples include: 1. Health insurance premiums 2. Flexible spending accounts (FSA) 3. Some retirement contributions 4. Transportation benefit programs Check your final pay stub from 2018 and see if you had any significant pre-tax deductions that might explain the difference. Also, did you work for a school system or government agency? Some government employees have different Social Security withholding rules.
I did have a pretty expensive health insurance plan that was coming out pre-tax, plus I was maxing out my 401k that year. Could those really account for almost $95k difference between box 1/5 and box 3 though? That seems like a massive gap!
Health insurance premiums and 401(k) contributions typically reduce your Social Security wages, but $95k is an unusually large difference. Even if you maxed out your 401(k) at the 2018 limit ($18,500 plus any catch-up contributions if you were over 50), and had expensive health insurance (let's say $15,000-20,000 for a premium family plan), that would still only account for maybe $40,000 of the difference. If there's still a $55,000 gap unaccounted for, it's likely there was a reporting error. Another possibility is if you had some deferred compensation or special bonus arrangement that was treated differently for Social Security purposes. Either way, I would definitely contact your former employer for clarification.
I just realized my 2024 W-2 has a similar issue! Box 1 and 5 are both $87,430 but box 3 is only $52,189. I never would have noticed this if not for your post. Now I'm wondering if I'm paying the right amount of Social Security tax...
Whatever you do, DO NOT ignore this. I made that mistake and ended up with a levy on my paycheck where they took 25% of every check for months. Super embarrassing having to explain to my employer too. Call the IRS and your state tax agency immediately. Be honest that you want to resolve this but need a payment plan. In my experience, they actually become quite reasonable once you're actively trying to resolve things.
Did you need to provide any financial documentation to get on a payment plan? I'm worried they'll want to see all my expenses and bank statements.
For my situation (owed about $7k), I didn't need to provide detailed financial documentation. They just asked about my general monthly income and expenses over the phone. If you request a larger monthly payment amount than they initially suggest, they're less likely to request detailed financial info. For larger tax debts (over $10k I think), they might ask for more detailed financial information using Form 433-F. But even then, it's not as invasive as people fear.
I went through this last year. Quick tip: when you call the IRS, specifically ask about "first-time penalty abatement" if you haven't had tax issues before. They removed about $700 in penalties for me, but they WON'T offer this unless you specifically ask for it by name.
That's a great tip! Does it work for state taxes too? My levy was from the state department of revenue.
James Johnson
I made this exact mistake last year but with $37 in dividends that showed up after my conversion. My accountant said not to worry about it and just include it in the basis for next year's conversion. Haven't had any issues.
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Sophia Rodriguez
ā¢Did you have to pay any taxes on those dividends though? I'm confused about whether they count as income for the current year even if you're converting them later.
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Mia Green
One thing nobody's mentioned - you should check if your traditional IRA has a "sweep" feature that automatically moves dividends to a money market fund. If it's set up right, you can have future dividends go directly to Roth if your brokerage allows it! Saved me a lot of hassle with these small amounts showing up randomly.
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