


Ask the community...
Pro tip from someone who's been through this: Make sure you're keeping ALL your solar paperwork and receipts for the full time you're carrying forward the credit. IRS can request documentation for any year you claim part of the credit, and it's a pain if you've lost the original installation contract/receipts. I learned this the hard way when I got a letter asking for verification in year 3 of claiming my carried-forward solar credit. Had to contact the installer for duplicate documentation.
Thanks for the heads up! I hadn't even thought about documentation issues. Does TurboTax store all this info year to year or should I be keeping separate records?
TurboTax does track the remaining credit amount from year to year if you use it consistently, but it doesn't store your actual receipts or documentation. You definitely need to keep all that separately. I recommend scanning everything related to your solar purchase and installation and keeping digital copies in multiple places (cloud storage, external drive, etc.). Include the contract, all receipts, the manufacturer's certification statement, and any utility interconnection agreements. The IRS can ask for this stuff years later, and solar companies sometimes go out of business, making it impossible to get duplicates.
Has anyone else had issues with turbotax calculating this correctly? Mine showed I had a $7,400 credit but then only applied about $2,300 to this year's taxes. The rest is supposedly carrying forward but there's no clear documentation showing the remaining balance anywhere I can find in the forms.
Check your Form 5695 on the actual tax return PDF. It should show both the total credit calculated and the amount applied to this year. The amount carrying forward should be the difference. It's on Part I, line 15 (total credit) and line 16 (amount used this year).
Found it! You're right, it's on those lines. Weird that TurboTax doesn't make this clearer in their summary. I see now that I have about $5,100 carrying forward. Thanks for pointing me to the right place!
I'd recommend using the standard mileage deduction for your car since you don't need actual receipts for that - just a log of business miles. You can recreate this after the fact using Google Maps and your calendar/work schedule. For 2024, you get 68 cents per mile which can add up fast! For other expenses, look through your bank/credit card statements to find business purchases. Even without receipts, these statements are considered supporting documentation by the IRS. Just be honest and reasonable with what you claim. Whatever you do, DON'T skip reporting the income! The IRS gets copies of 1099s, and not reporting income is way worse than claiming reasonable expenses without perfect documentation.
Thank you for the advice! I've been looking through my Google Maps timeline and I can actually piece together a lot of my driving history which is super helpful. I'm definitely reporting all the income - I'm just trying to figure out the right way to handle the expense side. Do you have any guidance on what percentage of expenses would trigger an audit? I want to be honest but also not raise any red flags.
There's no specific percentage that automatically triggers an audit. The IRS compares your expense ratios to industry averages, so what matters is whether your deductions seem reasonable for your type of work. For example, if you're doing handyman jobs, claiming 30-40% expenses might be reasonable, but claiming 80% would raise eyebrows. Focus on being accurate and honest rather than worrying about audit triggers. Document everything you can reconstruct, keep your tax records for at least 3 years, and you should be fine. Most small business audits happen because of unreported income or extremely disproportionate expense claims, not because someone claimed legitimate expenses without perfect documentation.
What tax software are you using? I was in a similar situation and found that TurboTax Self-Employed walked me through exactly what expenses I could claim and how to document them after the fact. It also suggested expenses I hadn't even thought about (like a portion of cell phone bills, home office if applicable, etc).
One thing nobody has mentioned yet - you might want to look at adjusting your W-4 withholding with your employer. If you owe that much at tax time, it probably means you're not having enough taken out of your regular paychecks. I had the same problem a few years back - kept owing $1000+ every April. Finally fixed my withholdings and now I break about even (small refund or small payment). It's way less stressful than getting hit with a big bill all at once.
How exactly do you adjust your withholdings? I've seen this advice before but I have no idea how to actually do it.
You need to fill out a new W-4 form and submit it to your employer's payroll department or HR. The form was redesigned in 2020, so it's different from the old withholding allowances system. The new form has a section where you can specify an additional amount to withhold from each paycheck. For example, if you owed $1255 and get paid bi-weekly (26 paychecks per year), you might want to have an extra $50 withheld per paycheck ($1300/year) to cover what you'd otherwise owe at tax time.
I was in the same situation last year! Try checking if you qualify for a first-time penalty abatement from the IRS. If you've had a clean tax record for the past 3 years, they might waive the penalties (though not the interest). Saved me about $200. And definitely don't pay TurboTax $480! Switch to FreeTaxUSA or another cheaper option. I used FreeTaxUSA this year and paid $15 for state filing, federal was free even with 1099 income and investments.
Just wanted to add that if you're going to withdraw the Roth contributions, make sure your brokerage codes it properly as a "return of contribution" rather than a regular withdrawal. The paperwork should specifically indicate tax year 2025 contributions being returned. Some brokerages have a specific form for this, while others require you to call and speak with a representative who specializes in retirement accounts. In my experience, it's better to call and explicitly explain your situation rather than trying to do it through their website.
Thanks for the heads up! Do you know if there's a specific deadline for this? Is it the tax filing deadline (April 15, 2026) or do I need to do this before the end of 2025?
You have until the tax filing deadline for the year of the contribution, including extensions. So for contributions made in 2025, you have until April 15, 2026 (or October 15, 2026 if you file an extension) to withdraw excess contributions without penalties. However, I'd recommend handling it sooner rather than later just to have it resolved. And yes, any earnings specifically tied to those excess contributions also need to come out, and those earnings would be taxable income in the year you withdraw them.
Has anyone dealt with the situation where you contributed to an ex-spouse's IRA? I'm in a similar boat where I funded my ex's Roth IRA just before we split, and I'm wondering if there's any way to get that money back or if it's just considered part of the divorce settlement?
Unfortunately, once you contribute to someone else's Roth IRA, that money legally belongs to them. It's now part of their retirement assets. The best approach is to address this in your divorce settlement negotiations - you could potentially ask for other assets of equivalent value in the division of property. Your situation is exactly why my attorney advised me to pause all contributions to my spouse's accounts as soon as divorce was on the horizon. Some states might view this differently depending on community property laws, but generally speaking, that money is considered gifted to them.
Aisha Hussain
Another option worth considering - you can actually reimburse yourself by transferring funds from your HSA to your personal checking account. I do this quarterly for any medical expenses I paid with my regular card. The key is documentation - keep all receipts showing: - Date of service - Provider name - Description of service/product - Amount paid - Proof it wasn't reimbursed by insurance Most HSA providers have an online portal where you can request reimbursement and upload these receipts. The money usually hits your bank account within 3-5 business days.
0 coins
GalacticGladiator
ā¢Is there a minimum amount required for reimbursement? I have a few small co-pays like $20-30 each that I paid with my debit card.
0 coins
Aisha Hussain
ā¢There's typically no minimum amount required for reimbursement - you can request even small amounts like $20-30 copays. However, some people prefer to batch smaller expenses together and request reimbursement quarterly or annually just to reduce the paperwork and transactions. One strategy some people use is to intentionally pay smaller expenses out of pocket, save the receipts, and let their HSA funds grow tax-free for years. Then they can reimburse themselves much later (even in retirement) when they might need the cash more. As long as you have the documentation showing the expense was HSA-eligible and incurred after you established your HSA, there's no time limit.
0 coins
Ethan Brown
Has anyone had issues with the IRS questioning HSA reimbursements during an audit? I'm nervous about claiming expenses from 2+ years ago.
0 coins
Yuki Yamamoto
ā¢I actually went through an IRS audit last year that included reviewing my HSA. As long as you have proper documentation, there's no problem claiming old expenses. The IRS specifically states there's no time limit. I had reimbursed myself for expenses from 4 years prior and provided: 1. Original receipts showing the medical nature of expense 2. Proof of payment (credit card statement) 3. Proof it wasn't reimbursed by insurance (EOB) They didn't question it at all.
0 coins