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One thing to double check is if you're eligible for the American Opportunity Credit (AOC) vs the Lifetime Learning Credit (LLC). The AOC is generally better but can only be claimed for 4 years, while the LLC can be claimed for unlimited years. AOC gives you up to $2,500 per eligible student (100% of first $2,000 in expenses, 25% of next $2,000), while LLC only gives 20% of up to $10,000 in expenses (max $2,000). Also, make sure you're considering books and required course materials - those can count as qualified expenses even if not paid directly to the school! Those wouldn't show up on your 1098-T but you can still claim them if you have receipts.
That's super helpful, thanks! I'm in my 5th year of college (took a gap year), so maybe I hit the AOC limit? I didn't realize there was a 4-year maximum. Should I manually select Lifetime Learning Credit instead? And I definitely have receipts for books - how do I add those to FreeTaxUSA since they're not on my 1098-T?
Yes, if you've already claimed the AOC for 4 years, you'll need to use the Lifetime Learning Credit instead. In FreeTaxUSA, when you get to the education credit section, it should ask about previous years. Make sure to indicate you've already used the AOC for 4 years, and it should switch you to the LLC automatically. If not, there should be an option to manually select which credit you want. For books and supplies, FreeTaxUSA should have a section where you can enter additional qualified education expenses not reported on the 1098-T. Look for a field labeled something like "Course Materials" or "Additional Education Expenses" within the education credit section. Enter the total amount you spent on required textbooks and materials there. Keep those receipts in case of an audit!
Have you checked if your qualified education expenses already got factored into your tax calculation? Sometimes it's not showing up as a separate item but is still reducing your overall tax liability. Also, double check box 7 on your 1098-T. If box 7 is checked, it means the amounts in Box 1 include amounts billed for the first three months of 2025 (next year's academic term). Those amounts wouldn't count for this year's taxes.
This happened to me too - box 7 was checked and messed everything up! The amounts included my spring semester that I prepaid in December. When I adjusted for that, my credit calculation started working correctly.
If you still have the TurboTax, I might be interested. My situation is pretty basic - W2 job plus a small side business selling crafts online. Do you think the Home & Business version would be overkill for me? I used the Deluxe version last year but my online sales have increased.
I think the Home & Business would actually be perfect for your situation with the online craft sales. It's specifically designed for people with a small business or self-employment income. The Deluxe version doesn't include all the business expense categories and Schedule C support that you probably need. Let me figure out how to get this to you without violating any terms of service. Might need to check what the other commenter mentioned about transfers not being allowed.
Has anyone tried FreeTaxUSA? It's way cheaper than TurboTax and handles all the same forms. I switched last year and it was honestly better than TurboTax for my needs (W2 plus rental property). The interface isn't as pretty but it gets the job done for like 1/5 of the price.
I second this! Been using FreeTaxUSA for 3 years now. It handles my freelance work and investment accounts perfectly. Federal filing is free and state is only like $15. No idea why people still pay $100+ for TurboTax.
Not sure if this helps, but I had a similar situation with my daughter at UCLA. Our tax advisor explained it this way: If you never received a bill, there was no expense. If there was no expense, there was no support provided for that expense. For the kiddie tax, they look at actual support provided, not theoretical costs that were waived. In our case, we were able to exclude the tuition waiver from the support calculation, which meant her part-time job provided more than 50% of her support. This only works with true tuition waivers though - not scholarships where money actually changes hands. Worth asking your accountant about this specific distinction.
That's exactly the kind of distinction I was wondering about! Did you have to provide any specific documentation to the IRS to prove it was a waiver and not a scholarship? My financial aid letter does say "tuition waiver" and "non-disbursing" but I'm worried that might not be enough.
We kept copies of her financial aid award letter that specifically called it a "tuition waiver" and noted it was "non-disbursing." We also kept documentation showing no tuition was ever billed to her student account - just the other expenses like room and board, books, etc. Our accountant said the specific terminology on the financial aid documents is crucial. The fact that yours says "non-disbursing" is very helpful. That's exactly the kind of language that indicates no support was actually provided - there was simply no charge applied. Definitely bring those documents to your accountant appointment!
One thing to consider that I haven't seen mentioned - look at how your university reported the tuition waiver on your 1098-T. Check Box 5 which shows "Scholarships or Grants." If they included the waiver amount there, the IRS might consider it support regardless of whether cash changed hands. I found this out the hard way. My daughter had a "presidential tuition waiver" but the university reported it in Box 5 of her 1098-T as a scholarship. When we got audited (bad luck!), the IRS considered it as support provided by the university, which meant her earned income wasn't over 50% of her support.
This is a really good point! The 1098-T reporting can make a huge difference. My son's school didn't include his tuition waiver in Box 5, and we had no issues excluding it from support calculations. But my nephew's university did include his waiver in Box 5, and they ended up having to pay kiddie tax.
I went through this last year! You don't need to send a 1095 form if you didn't have insurance - that's the whole point. The IRS is just asking for verification because their system flagged your return when you indicated no coverage. Call them and explain your situation - that you couldn't afford coverage. For 2025 filing (2024 tax year), the individual mandate penalty isn't even enforced anymore at the federal level, though some states still have their own requirements.
Wait, are you sure the penalty is gone? I thought Biden brought back the healthcare mandate? I've been worried about this for my 2024 taxes.
The federal penalty for not having health insurance (the individual mandate) was reduced to $0 starting in 2019, and that's still the case for federal taxes. The American Rescue Plan didn't reinstate the penalty. Some states like California, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Rhode Island, and DC have their own individual mandates with penalties, so if you live in one of those states, you might still face a state tax penalty. But on your federal return, there's still no penalty for not having coverage.
Has anyone actually paid a penalty for no health insurance recently? I haven't had insurance for 3 years and never got any letters or penalties. I'm wondering if they're just randomly auditing some people?
The federal penalty is $0 now, but it's not an "audit" if they're asking about it - it's just verification. I think the IRS systems still flag returns with no coverage marked, but they don't actually charge a penalty. They just want to make sure you really don't have coverage vs. forgetting to include your insurance info.
Angelica Smith
One thing no one has mentioned yet is that the bonus depreciation rules are changing. The 100% bonus depreciation is phasing out: - 80% for property placed in service in 2023 - 60% for property placed in service in 2024 - 40% for property placed in service in 2025 - 20% for property placed in service in 2026 - 0% after 2026 So if you're thinking of using this strategy, sooner is better than later. You'll get more bang for your buck while the bonus depreciation percentages are higher.
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Amelia Cartwright
ā¢That's really helpful info. Does "placed in service" mean when we buy the property, or is there something specific we need to do to consider it "placed in service" for tax purposes?
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Angelica Smith
ā¢Placed in" service generally means when the property is ready and available for its intended use - so for a rental property, it would typically be when'it s ready to be rented out to tenants. If you purchase a property'that s already tenant-ready, the placed-in-service date would likely be the purchase date. However, if you buy a property that needs substantial renovations before it can be rented, the placed-in-service date would be when those renovations are complete and the property is ready for rental. This is an important distinction because it determines which'year s bonus depreciation percentageapplies.
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Logan Greenburg
Make sure you're tracking your basis properly! I'm a software dev who did this exact strategy with my wife (real estate professional) and got hit with a massive tax bill years later when we sold one of our properties. The depreciation lowers your basis in the property, which means higher capital gains when you sell. For example, if you buy a property for $500k, take $250k in depreciation deductions, your adjusted basis becomes $250k. If you later sell for $600k, your taxable gain is $350k ($600k - $250k), not just $100k ($600k - $500k). AND that $250k in depreciation gets "recaptured" and taxed at 25% instead of the lower capital gains rates. It's still usually worth it, but be aware of the long-term implications.
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Charlotte Jones
ā¢Good point about depreciation recapture! One strategy to deal with this is using 1031 exchanges when you sell to defer both the capital gains and the depreciation recapture. We've been doing this for years - selling properties and rolling the proceeds into larger ones without paying tax.
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