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Have you considered keeping the products as inventory for your business and then donating them as a business expense rather than a personal donation? Just wondering if that approach would work?
That doesn't work. Business donations still have to go on Schedule A as charitable contributions. The only exception is if you donate inventory, but as a product reviewer, these aren't really inventory in the traditional sense - they're compensation. The IRS is pretty clear about this distinction.
One thing nobody has mentioned - if you're donating significant amounts, you might actually get close to the standard deduction threshold with your other deductible expenses combined. Track everything carefully like mortgage interest, state taxes, medical expenses over the threshold, etc. You might be surprised when you add it all up with the donations.
One thing to be super careful about is making sure the expenses you claim for AOTC are only from your undergrad program. My tax preparer last year made the mistake of including some of my grad school expenses in the AOTC calculation and I ended up getting a letter from the IRS about it. For the AOTC, you can include tuition, required fees, and course materials for your undergrad program. For your grad program, those same expenses would only qualify for the Lifetime Learning Credit. If you got scholarships or grants, those might reduce your eligible expenses too.
So to be clear, if I have spring 2022 expenses for undergrad and fall 2022 expenses for grad school, I need to choose one credit type for the whole year? I can't apply AOTC to spring and Lifetime Learning to fall?
You actually CAN claim both credits in the same tax year, but not for the same student. Since you're just claiming for yourself, you need to pick which credit gives you the better benefit. Most people in your situation would benefit more from claiming AOTC for your eligible undergrad expenses, since it's worth up to $2,500 and 40% of it can be refundable. The Lifetime Learning Credit is only worth up to $2,000 and is non-refundable. Look at your qualified expenses for each program and calculate which approach gives you the better result.
Don't forget that your 1098-T might not show the correct amount for AOTC purposes! Many schools report tuition billed in Box 2 rather than tuition paid in Box 1. For AOTC, you need to claim based on amounts paid in 2022, not amounts billed. So if you paid spring 2022 tuition in December 2021, that technically wouldn't count for 2022's AOTC calculation. Similarly, if you prepaid some 2023 expenses in December 2022, those would count for 2022 taxes.
Another approach - you could also just manually calculate your mortgage interest deduction instead of using the 1098 form input in H&R Block. Add up all the interest you paid from your monthly statements and enter it as a lump sum. Tax software tries to be helpful with those form inputs but sometimes it creates unnecessary restrictions. Remember that the 1098 is just information reporting - what matters is the actual interest you paid during the tax year.
Would this cause any issues with the IRS matching systems? I'm worried that if I don't enter the exact forms as they were sent to the IRS, it might trigger some kind of mismatch or audit flag.
It shouldn't cause issues as long as the total interest amount you claim matches what was reported on your 1098 forms. The IRS matching system is primarily concerned with the total interest amount, not how you entered it into your tax software. That said, it's always best to keep copies of your 1098 forms and mortgage statements to document exactly how you calculated your deduction in case you're ever questioned. As long as you can show that your total claimed interest matches what was reported to the IRS, you should be fine.
Has anyone run into this issue with TurboTax? I'm experiencing the same thing with my mortgage that was sold twice last year, but using TurboTax instead of H&R Block.
I had this issue with TurboTax last year. What worked for me was entering the forms separately and when it wouldn't accept the $0 principal, I just put $1 instead. Then for the form from my new lender, I entered the correct principal balance as of year-end. TurboTax combined the interest amounts correctly for my deduction.
One thing I noticed is missing from your calculation - check if your client qualifies for any 1031 exchange. If they're planning to buy another investment property, they might be able to defer a big chunk of that tax bill. The rules are pretty strict though - they would need to identify potential replacement properties within 45 days of the sale and complete the purchase within 180 days.
Thanks for bringing that up! Unfortunately, she already closed on the sale in April without setting up a 1031 exchange, and she's planning to retire with the proceeds rather than buying another investment property. I definitely should have mentioned that in my original post. I'm more concerned with making sure I've got the tax calculation right so she knows exactly what she'll owe. I realized I should also check if she's eligible for any state-specific tax breaks since this is a pretty significant capital gain and she's in her 70s.
Has anyone dealt with a situation where the seller took bonus depreciation on capital improvements during the COVID years? I have a client who did this for a major HVAC system in 2020 and I'm not sure how that factors into the recapture calculations.
Yes, that's an important consideration. The bonus depreciation taken would still be subject to recapture, but at ordinary income tax rates (not just the 25% rate that applies to straight-line depreciation). Make sure you separate out the portion that was taken as bonus depreciation from the regular depreciation when calculating the tax. Also remember that for improvements made in 2020, they would have been eligible for 100% bonus depreciation, so likely the entire cost was written off in that year. You'll need to recapture all of that at ordinary income rates.
Geoff Richards
Former tax resolution employee here. These companies are SUCH a scam. They prey on people who are scared of the IRS and don't understand how the system works. The business model is basically: 1. Charge huge upfront fees (usually $3,000-5,000) 2. Drag the case out as long as possible 3. Eventually file the same paperwork you could do yourself 4. Claim they "saved" you money by getting you a payment plan Meanwhile your interest and penalties keep growing while they drag their feet. The salespeople (who call themselves "tax consultants") make huge commissions off the upfront fees, which is why they're so aggressive. The actual caseworkers are overloaded with hundreds of cases and barely do anything.
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Simon White
ā¢Is there ANY legitimate reason to use one of these companies? Like what if your tax situation is really complicated or you owe hundreds of thousands of dollars?
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Geoff Richards
ā¢There are very limited situations where professional representation makes sense. If you're facing criminal tax charges, have a complex business situation with multiple years of unfiled returns, or owe massive amounts (typically $250,000+) with significant assets to protect, then you should hire a tax attorney (not a "tax relief" company). For most people owing under $100,000 with relatively straightforward situations, you can handle it yourself. The IRS has standardized procedures for payment plans, offers in compromise, etc. They follow their own internal guidelines regardless of who's asking. A decent tax preparer can give you guidance for a fraction of what these companies charge.
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Hugo Kass
Did you sign a contract with Optima? You might be able to dispute the charges with your credit card company if they didn't deliver the services promised. I'd also file complaints with the BBB, your state attorney general, and the FTC. These companies need to be held accountable for these predatory practices.
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Chris Elmeda
ā¢Yeah I signed a contract but it was so vague about what they actually promised to do. Just said they'd "represent" me and "work toward resolution" without any specifics. I paid by direct withdrawal from my checking account, so I don't think I can dispute it like with a credit card. Been thinking about the BBB complaint though, good idea.
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