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Don't forget about the possible option of a cost segregation study for your renovations. This can help accelerate depreciation by breaking down components of your improvements into different categories with shorter depreciation periods (5, 7, or 15 years instead of 27.5). For a $65,000 renovation, it might be worth the cost of the study if you have a lot of components that could qualify for shorter depreciation periods. Things like appliances, carpet, some fixtures, and landscaping often qualify. This can significantly increase your deductions in the early years.

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Thanks for bringing this up! I hadn't considered a cost segregation study. How much does something like that typically cost? And would it be worth it for a relatively small renovation like mine?

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For a renovation of your size, a cost segregation study might cost between $3,000-$5,000 depending on complexity and where you're located. It's generally worth considering when your improvement costs exceed $100,000, but can still be valuable at $65,000 in certain scenarios. The key is what components make up your renovation. If you're doing significant updates to fixtures, appliances, flooring, and HVAC systems (which can be depreciated over 5-7 years) versus primarily structural work (27.5 years), the accelerated deductions could easily exceed the cost of the study within the first 1-2 years. Many accounting firms offer a free analysis to estimate potential benefits before you commit to the full study.

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Sasha Reese

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Anyone use TurboTax for reporting rental property renovations? I'm doing a similar project and wonder if it handles all these complicated depreciation schedules and passive loss limitations correctly?

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I used TurboTax Premier last year for my rental property and it worked pretty well. It asks you to categorize each expense as either a repair or improvement and then sets up the depreciation schedules automatically. It also calculates the passive loss limitations based on your income. Just make sure you have good records of all your expenses categorized properly before you start.

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Just to add another perspective - I had a similar situation but with even larger losses (about $42,000 from some terrible stock picks in 2023). My accountant explained it like this: 1. First, use your capital loss carryover to offset ANY capital gains in the current year (unlimited amount) 2. Then, you can use up to $3,000 of remaining losses to offset ordinary income 3. Any unused losses get carried forward to future years This is actually a really important distinction because many people think the $3,000 is the total you can use each year, which isn't correct. If you have $10,000 in capital gains this year, you could potentially use $13,000 of your carryover ($10,000 for the gains plus $3,000 against ordinary income).

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Does the ordering matter? Like what if I have both short-term and long-term losses carried over, and both short-term and long-term gains this year? Is there a specific way these have to be applied?

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Yes, the ordering definitely matters because it can affect your tax rate. The IRS has specific rules for how losses and gains are netted against each other. First, short-term losses offset short-term gains, and long-term losses offset long-term gains. Then, if you have net losses in one category and net gains in the other, those net figures are used to offset each other. This is important because short-term gains are taxed at your ordinary income rate, while long-term gains get preferential tax rates.

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Ravi Sharma

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Quick question - if i understand right, I can only carry over losses if I report them in the year they happen right? I had some stocks that tanked in 2023 but I didnt sell them until this year (2024) so I get the loss for 2024 taxes not 2023?

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Paolo Ricci

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You're absolutely right. You have to actually sell the investment (realize the loss) to claim it on your taxes. Holding onto stocks that have gone down in value doesn't create a tax loss you can claim - it's only when you sell them that the loss becomes "realized" and can be used on your tax return.

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Ravi Sharma

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Thanks for confirming! That explains why I couldn't find any loss carryover from last year. At least i'll be able to use this year's losses to offset the gains I had earlier in the year, plus the $3000 against regular income.

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Just adding another perspective - I worked for a tax preparation company that specialized in international students. The $680 refund is actually pretty typical for F1/J1 students who worked summer jobs. As someone mentioned, you're exempt from FICA taxes (Social Security and Medicare), which is about 7.65% of your earnings. If you worked and made around $8-10k over the summer, getting $680 back is totally reasonable. Many companies do receive the refund directly and then distribute it to you minus their fee (which should have been disclosed upfront).

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Lucas Bey

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Thanks for the insight! I did make around $8,900 over the summer, so that percentage makes sense. Do you think sharing my bank info with them is safe? That's my main concern honestly.

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Sharing your bank info with a legitimate tax service is generally safe. They're handling millions of transactions and have security protocols in place. Account and routing numbers are actually printed on every check you write, so they're not your most sensitive financial information. That said, only provide this info through their secure portal, never via email or text. And if you're still uncomfortable, you can absolutely request a paper check instead as someone suggested earlier. It'll take longer but might give you more peace of mind. Most reputable companies offer both options.

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Make sure the company isn't charging you a "refund transfer fee" or similar! Many tax prep companies targeting international students charge extra fees for "processing" your refund that aren't mentioned upfront. I got charged $40 just to receive my own money!

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THIS! I had the same experience. They called it a "refund management fee" on top of the tax prep fee I already paid. Check the paperwork you signed.

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Just to add some clarification about Medicaid and the ACA (Affordable Care Act) relationship: The ACA significantly expanded Medicaid eligibility in states that chose to adopt the expansion. Before the ACA, Medicaid was mostly available to low-income families with children, pregnant women, and people with disabilities. The ACA allowed states to expand coverage to all adults with incomes up to 138% of the federal poverty level. However, not all states expanded Medicaid. Currently, there are still 10 states that haven't adopted the expansion. For Form 1095-B, some states don't automatically send them anymore unless you specifically request one. This changed a few years ago, so definitely contact your state Medicaid office if you need one for your records.

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Freya Ross

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Do you know which 10 states haven't expanded Medicaid? I'm moving soon and worried about my coverage potentially changing.

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As of early 2025, the states that have not expanded Medicaid under the ACA are Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Kansas, Mississippi, South Carolina, Tennessee, Texas, Wisconsin, and Wyoming. Wisconsin is a special case because they cover adults up to 100% of the poverty level but didn't adopt the full expansion. If you're moving to one of these states, you'll want to carefully check the eligibility requirements, as they're more restrictive than expansion states. The income limits and categories of eligible people vary significantly in these non-expansion states.

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One thing nobody's mentioned yet - you might not even need the 1095-B form for your 2024 taxes! The tax penalty for not having health insurance (the "individual mandate") was effectively eliminated starting in 2019 at the federal level because the penalty was reduced to $0. So technically, you don't need to prove you had coverage on your federal return. However, some states (California, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Rhode Island, and DC) have their own individual mandates with penalties, so if you live in one of those places, you would still need documentation of your coverage.

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Sergio Neal

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I thought the whole point of the 1095 forms was for the penalty? If there's no penalty anymore, why do they still send these forms out at all?

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Noah Lee

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Don't forget that if you claim your parent as a dependent, you might qualify for head of household filing status which gives you better tax rates than filing as single! You need to provide more than half the cost of keeping up the home where your parent lives, but it sounds like you do that already.

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Evelyn Kim

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Does that head of household thing really make a big difference? I've always just filed as single. Is it complicated to change to that?

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Noah Lee

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Head of household makes a HUGE difference! For 2025, the standard deduction for HOH is around $20,800 compared to just $14,600 for single filers. That's over $6,000 more of your income that won't be taxed! It's not complicated at all to change your filing status. When you prepare your return, you just select "Head of Household" instead of "Single" and the tax software or forms will automatically apply the better tax rates and higher standard deduction. The requirements are that you're unmarried, pay more than half the cost of keeping up the home, and have a qualifying person living with you (your dependent parent counts for this).

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Has anyone dealt with the situation where a parent gets too much Social Security to qualify as a dependent? My dad gets about $2,300/month and I heard there's a gross income limit.

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The gross income limit only applies to taxable income. Social Security is only partially taxable or not taxable at all depending on total income. Check out the worksheet in IRS Publication 501 for determining if Social Security counts toward the gross income test.

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