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Don't forget about income splitting if you have a spouse or family members who can legitimately work in the business. My accountant helped me set up a structure where my spouse and adult children provide actual services to my business and receive income, which spreads the income across multiple lower tax brackets. Make sure there's real work being done though - you can't just put family on payroll without them doing legitimate work. We keep detailed logs of hours and responsibilities.
Isn't that risky though? I heard that family businesses get extra scrutiny from tax authorities. How do you document everything properly to avoid problems?
It's not risky if done properly. The key is treating family exactly like any other employee or contractor. We maintain detailed job descriptions, contracts, time tracking, and regular payments based on market rates for the work performed. Documentation is crucial - we keep records of work produced, emails about projects, and regular performance reviews. My spouse handles all our marketing and social media with measurable deliverables, while my son manages our e-commerce fulfillment with clear metrics. Having tangible outputs makes it much easier to justify in case of questions.
Has anyone tried incorporating in a different province with lower tax rates? I'm in BC but wondering if Alberta might be better tax-wise for my online business since I don't really need a physical location.
You need to be careful with this approach. Your corporation may be taxed based on where management decisions are made, not just where you're incorporated. If you're physically living and working in BC but incorporated in Alberta, you could face complications with provincial tax authorities.
This isn't directly about the negative number, but make sure you also check if you qualify for the Recovery Rebate Credit for 2020. When I got a similar letter, it turned out I was missing both the Additional Child Tax Credit AND the Recovery Rebate Credit (stimulus payment). Ended up getting back almost $4,000 extra!
How do you know if you qualify for that Recovery Rebate thing? I filed in 2020 but honestly can't remember if I got all the stimulus payments or not.
The easiest way to check is to look at your 2020 tax return - there should be a Recovery Rebate Credit Worksheet or a line on the Form 1040 itself (Line 30). If that line is blank or zero, you might have missed out. You qualify if you didn't receive the full stimulus payments you were entitled to in 2020. The first payment was $1,200 per adult and $500 per qualifying child, and the second was $600 per adult and per qualifying child. If your income wasn't too high and you didn't receive these full amounts, you might be eligible for the credit.
Does anyone know the deadline for claiming this additional refund for 2020? I'm in a similar situation with a negative line 3 but I've been putting off dealing with it.
You generally have 3 years from the original due date to claim a refund for a given tax year. Since 2020 taxes were originally due May 17, 2021 (extended due to COVID), you have until May 17, 2024 to file an amended return or respond to an IRS letter about potential additional refunds. I wouldn't wait too long though - processing times can be lengthy, especially for amended returns or responses to IRS inquiries.
Just to add one more thing that nobody mentioned - if you're going to file a tax return with zero income just to maintain your capital loss carryover, you can e-file for free through the IRS Free File program regardless of your income level in previous years. No need to pay for tax software just to document your carryover.
That's really helpful, thanks! Do you know if I need to include any special forms besides Schedule D for the capital loss carryover? And will Free File guide me through that process?
You'll need Form 1040 (the main tax return), Schedule D (Capital Gains and Losses), and possibly Form 8949 (Sales and Other Dispositions of Capital Assets) depending on your specific situation. These forms work together to document your capital loss carryover. Yes, the IRS Free File program will guide you through completing these forms. Most Free File software will ask about capital losses from previous years and help you properly document the carryover. Just make sure you have your previous year's tax return handy so you can accurately enter the carryover amount.
I actually went through this exact scenario with capital losses a few years back. Make ABSOLUTELY SURE you file - I skipped one year thinking it didn't matter with no income and it caused a huge headache. The IRS flagged my return when I tried to use those losses two years later.
Did you end up losing the deduction completely or were you able to fix it somehow?
Another option: check if your trade-in was handled as a "tax credit" transaction. When I traded in my SUV last year, the dealer applied the value toward the new vehicle purchase which meant I didn't owe additional property tax on the old vehicle for that year. Bring your purchase agreement from the dealer to the tax office. Some states have specific rules where the dealer's trade-in paperwork automatically transfers tax liability. Worth checking before you pay anything!
Does this tax credit thing work in all states? I'm in California and about to trade in my car next month. Would be nice to avoid paying property tax on both vehicles.
The trade-in tax credit works differently state by state. California actually doesn't have a personal property tax on vehicles like many other states do - they have a VLF (Vehicle License Fee) which operates differently. In states with actual property tax on vehicles (like Virginia, Missouri, etc.), the trade-in often ends your tax liability for the traded vehicle, but you'll need to notify the county. In California, your registration fees are adjusted when you transfer or sell, but you need to file a Notice of Transfer with the DMV within 5 days. The dealer should handle most of this paperwork for you during the trade-in process.
My county uses this weird formula for prorating vehicle property taxes when you sell/trade during the year. Check your tax bill - there might be a phone number specifically for "vehicle tax questions" which is usually less busy than the main tax office number. Biggest advice: KEEP ALL PAPERWORK from both transactions! When I had to get my motorcycle tax adjusted, they wanted to see both the original purchase docs and the trade-in receipt with dates clearly visible.
Yep, documentation is key! I lost my trade-in paperwork and had to pay the full year tax on a car I only owned for 3 months. Lesson learned the hard way.
Mei Wong
I think everyone's missing something important here. If you return money in the same tax year you received it, the company can adjust their books and not issue the 1099-NEC. BUT if you wait until next year to return it, they're still required to issue the 1099-NEC for this year's payment. I did bookkeeping for a small business and we had this exact situation. A contractor wanted to return payment for a project they couldn't complete. When they returned it in the same calendar year, we just reversed the transaction in our accounting system. No 1099 was issued because effectively no payment was made that year. Just make sure you get documentation from them showing the return of funds and confirmation they won't be issuing a 1099-NEC.
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Aisha Mahmood
ā¢Thanks for this perspective! So if I understand correctly, I need to make sure I return the full $3,200 before December 31st, and get some kind of written confirmation from them that they won't issue the 1099-NEC? Is there any specific form or documentation I should ask for?
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Mei Wong
ā¢Yes, return the full amount before December 31st if you want to avoid the 1099-NEC entirely. Ask them for a receipt or formal acknowledgment of the returned payment that specifically states the date and amount returned, and that no 1099-NEC will be issued for this transaction. There's no specific IRS form for this situation, but you want something on company letterhead that clearly documents what happened in case you're ever questioned about it. Also, keep your own records - bank statements showing both the initial payment received and the return payment you made. Having a paper trail from both sides provides the best protection.
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Liam Sullivan
Just want to say that returning the $$ is probably more hassle than just dealing with the 1099-NEC. I freaked out the first time I got one too, but it's not that bad! Honestly TurboTax or whatever tax software you use walks you through it pretty easily. And the SE tax isn't as scary as it sounds - it's just 15.3% on top of your regular income tax. Plus you can deduct half of it! Don't overthink this. Keep the money, report the income, claim whatever legit expenses you had, and move on. Unless there's some other reason you need to return the money that you haven't mentioned?
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Amara Okafor
ā¢This is the most sensible comment here. Plus if you return the money... you don't have the money anymore! Why give up $3,200 just to avoid some paperwork and maybe a few hundred in taxes? That makes no financial sense.
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