I'm dealing with this exact same issue! Filed my return on March 4th and it was accepted the same day, but WMR has only shown "Return Received" with no tax topic code for the past several days. I was getting really worried that something was wrong with my filing, especially after seeing posts about people getting Topic 152 codes. Reading through all these responses has been incredibly reassuring - it sounds like the absence of a tax topic is actually quite normal during the initial processing stages. The professional insight from the tax preparer here was especially helpful in understanding that tax topics are more like situational markers rather than universal progress indicators. I'm going to follow the advice to check my account transcript online instead of constantly refreshing WMR. Thanks to everyone for sharing their experiences - this thread has definitely eased my anxiety about the whole process!

I'm experiencing the exact same situation! Filed on March 6th, accepted immediately, but WMR has only shown "Return Received" with no tax topic for over a week now. I was really starting to stress about it, especially since this is my first year filing independently after my parents always handled it. Reading through everyone's experiences here has been such a huge relief! The explanation from the tax preparer about tax topics being situational markers rather than universal progress steps really clicked for me. I was treating the absence of a tax topic like something was broken, but it sounds like it's actually just the normal path for straightforward returns. I'm going to stop my daily WMR checking ritual and look at my transcript instead. Thank you to everyone who shared their experiences - this community is so helpful for anxious first-time filers like me!

This thread has been absolutely incredible - thank you to everyone for sharing such detailed, practical experiences! As a newcomer who's been completely overwhelmed by trying to figure out how to use my Wageworks benefits with Uber, reading through all these real-world examples has been a game-changer. I'm definitely going with the "Pay Me Back" method that so many people have recommended. The monthly batch processing approach sounds much more reliable and organized than trying to deal with payment method switches after each individual ride. Plus, having that built-in review process from Wageworks actually makes me feel more confident about staying compliant rather than worried about it. The documentation advice has been particularly valuable - I love the systematic approach with spreadsheets tracking date/time/locations, plus screenshots of both receipts and route maps. It's clear that being proactive and thorough with record-keeping from day one is what makes the difference between a smooth process and potential headaches later. What really stands out to me is how manageable the audit process sounds when you have proper documentation. Multiple people shared that their Wageworks audits were resolved quickly because they had organized records ready to go. That's exactly the kind of reassurance I needed to hear! I'm planning to start with a simple Google Sheets setup and phone folder for screenshots, following the systems that Andrew and others have outlined. The few minutes of organization each month seems totally worth it for the peace of mind and tax savings. Thanks again to this amazing community for providing the kind of practical, experience-based guidance you just can't get from official policy documents or customer service calls!

This has been an absolutely phenomenal thread! As someone who just got Wageworks benefits at my new job and was completely lost on how to use them with Uber, I can't thank everyone enough for sharing such detailed, real-world experiences. After reading through all the different approaches discussed here, I'm convinced the "Pay Me Back" method is definitely the way to go. The monthly batch processing seems so much more reliable than trying to switch payment methods after each ride, and I love that it gives you time to get all your documentation organized before submitting. The systematic approach to record-keeping that people like Andrew and others have outlined is exactly what I was looking for - the spreadsheet with date/time/pickup/dropoff columns plus screenshots of both receipts and route maps. It shows you're being thorough and transparent about these being legitimate work expenses. What really put me at ease were the audit stories. Hearing that multiple people had their Wageworks audits resolved quickly and easily because they had good documentation makes the whole process feel much less intimidating. It's clear that they're not trying to catch people doing something wrong - they just want to verify that the expenses are legitimate. I'm going to start with a Google Sheets setup and phone folder for screenshots, following the systems that have been shared here. The few minutes of monthly organization seems totally worth it for the tax savings and peace of mind. This community is amazing for getting practical guidance that you just can't find in official policy documents. Thanks to everyone who contributed their experiences!

Great question Emma! I've been investing in precious metals for about 3 years now and learned these tax rules the hard way. Here's the super simple breakdown: **When you buy:** No taxes owed (except maybe state sales tax depending where you live) **When you sell:** Any profit gets taxed as "collectibles" - this is KEY because it's different from stocks. Gold and silver are always considered collectibles by the IRS, whether bars or coins. **The tax rates:** - Hold less than 1 year = taxed as regular income (your normal tax bracket) - Hold more than 1 year = maximum 28% tax rate (higher than regular long-term capital gains) **The reporting:** You must report ANY profit, even $10. No minimum threshold. Use Schedule D on your tax return. **Record keeping is CRUCIAL:** Save every receipt, track purchase dates/prices, and take photos of everything. Without proper records, the IRS could tax your entire sale amount instead of just the profit. One tip: if you're buying from local dealers with cash, get a written receipt every time. I learned this lesson when I couldn't prove my cost basis on some early purchases and ended up paying more tax than I should have. The good news is once you understand the system, it's pretty straightforward. Just treat it like any other investment for tax purposes, but remember that higher collectibles rate!

Emma, I totally get the "money disappears from my account" problem! Physical metals are actually a great forced savings method - I've been doing exactly what you're planning for about 2 years now. Here's the tax situation in the simplest terms possible: **The Basic Rule:** Gold and silver are "collectibles" to the IRS. This means they get taxed differently (and higher) than stocks when you sell for a profit. **Tax Rates:** - Sell within 1 year = your normal income tax rate - Sell after 1 year = up to 28% (vs 15-20% for stocks) **Reporting:** You must report ANY profit when you sell, even $1. No minimum threshold exists. **What You Need to Track:** - Date you bought each bar - Exact price you paid - Date you sell - Price you sell for **Pro Tips for Your Situation:** 1. Buy from online dealers (APMEX, JM Bullion) - their digital receipts are perfect for taxes 2. Start a simple spreadsheet NOW tracking every purchase 3. Take photos of your bars with the receipts 4. Consider starting with just one or two bars to test your system The tax bite is higher than stocks, but honestly, if you're like me and terrible at saving cash, paying 28% on profits is way better than having zero profits because you spent all your money on random stuff! Plus, you might not even have taxable gains if metals don't appreciate much. The "can't touch this" aspect has been amazing for my savings discipline. Just make sure you're prepared for the record-keeping part!

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm dealing with a PFL situation myself and had no idea about some of these nuances. One question I haven't seen addressed - what happens if you received PFL benefits in December but didn't actually take the leave until January of the following tax year? My daughter was born in late December, but I didn't start my actual leave until after the New Year due to how my company handles their leave policies. I received a lump sum payment in December for the upcoming leave period. Should this be reported on my 2024 return even though the leave itself was in 2025? I'm worried about getting this timing wrong since it seems like there are so many ways to mess up PFL reporting. Also, has anyone dealt with PFL from multiple states? We moved mid-year and I'm not sure if I need to file anything special since I was paying into one state's program for part of the year but used a different state's program for the actual leave.

I went through this exact same confusion with TurboTax and PFL benefits! You're right to be careful about getting it correct - the reporting requirements can be tricky. First, check your mail and online portals for a 1099-G form from your state's family leave program. This form should show the total PFL benefits you received and any taxes that were withheld. The 1099-G is separate from your W-2 because the payments come from the state fund, not directly from your employer. When you enter the 1099-G information in TurboTax, make sure you're putting it in the "Government Payments" or "1099-G" section, not trying to add it to your W-2 wages. TurboTax will walk you through this when you get to that section. One important thing to double-check: if your employer provided any "top-up" payments to supplement the state benefits (bringing you closer to your full salary), those employer contributions WOULD appear on your W-2. But the base PFL payments from the state should only be on the 1099-G. If you haven't received your 1099-G yet, contact your state's PFL department - they usually have online portals where you can access or request these documents. Don't file without it, as you'll likely need to amend your return later if you miss reporting this income.

I inherited a nonqualified annuity last year too, and my situation was slightly different. My tax preparer said I absolutely needed the 1099-R to properly file, even though taxes were withheld. Has anyone used H&R Block or TurboTax for this kind of situation? I'm trying to figure out which would handle this better.

I'm dealing with a very similar situation with my grandmother's nonqualified annuity that I inherited last year. The missing 1099-R is definitely a red flag - I received mine from the insurance company even though they withheld the correct amount of taxes. Here's what I learned from my tax preparer: even if the annuity company calculated and withheld taxes correctly, you still need to report the distribution on your tax return. The 1099-R shows the IRS that you properly accounted for the income and any withholding. I'd strongly recommend calling Nationwide again and asking specifically for the tax reporting department. When I had issues getting my 1099-R, I had to escalate beyond the general customer service reps. They should be able to reissue it or at least explain in writing why one wasn't generated. Don't spend that money you set aside until you get this resolved - better safe than sorry when it comes to the IRS. The fact that taxes were withheld is good, but without proper documentation, you could run into issues during filing or if audited later.