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The big jump in taxes makes sense mathematically. Your income went up by about 69% (from $410k to $693k) but your tax liability went up by about 130% (from $82k to $189k). This is expected because of our progressive tax system. Each additional dollar you earn gets taxed at your highest marginal rate. For 2024, the top marginal federal rate is 37% for income over $693,750 (married filing jointly). So almost all of your increase in income was taxed at that highest rate. Here's a rough calculation: - At $410k: You were probably in the 32% or 35% bracket for your highest dollars - At $693k+$18k: You're now solidly in the 37% bracket My advice? Definitely consider a CPA at your income level. DIY tax software is great for simpler situations, but a good CPA could potentially save you thousands through proper tax planning.
This breakdown is super helpful, thank you. I think I didn't fully grasp how progressive taxation would impact such a big income jump. Do you have any specific advice on how to calculate the right withholding amount for next year when my income will be dropping significantly?
For withholding with a significant income drop, you'll want to be strategic. The safest approach is to ensure you withhold at least 110% of your 2024 tax liability since that provides a safe harbor against penalties regardless of your 2025 actual liability. But if you want to be more precise, use the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator tool and update your W-4 with your employer. Input your expected 2025 income of $500k and it will calculate appropriate withholding. I'd recommend rechecking quarterly to make sure you're on track. For high incomes with big fluctuations, many people set aside a dedicated savings account with 3-5% of all income to cover any potential shortfalls.
Has anyone here used a tax pro from one of the big four accounting firms vs a local CPA? I'm wondering if it's worth the extra cost for high income situations like this.
I've used both. Big Four is much more expensive but honestly not worth it unless you have international income, complex business structures, or estate planning needs. A good local CPA who specializes in high-net-worth individuals will generally provide more personalized service at a fraction of the cost. I switched from PwC to a boutique CPA firm that specializes in tech executives and actually got better advice because they were more familiar with stock options, RSUs, and the specific tax situations people in our industry face.
As someone who works with low-income families, I wanted to add some clarity about UTMA accounts and benefits: 1) TANF (cash assistance) - Most states don't count a child's UTMA as household assets if the child is a minor AND the parent/guardian can prove they don't have access to the funds. 2) SNAP (food stamps) - Generally doesn't count UTMA assets against the household if they're inaccessible to the adults. 3) Medicaid - Rules vary by state, but most don't count restricted assets like UTMAs for eligibility. The most important thing is disclosure. Always report the account exists, then provide documentation showing it's restricted. Much better than having benefits terminated later for non-disclosure!
Thank you so much for this breakdown! Would a letter from the bank managing the UTMA count as documentation that it's restricted? And do we need to report the balance of the account or just that it exists?
A letter from the bank would definitely help! Ask specifically for documentation stating it's a custodial account with withdrawal restrictions until you reach the age of majority (18 or 21 depending on your state). You generally need to report both the existence of the account and its current balance. However, the good news is that even though you're reporting the balance, the agency will likely classify it as an "excluded asset" based on the restrictions. Make sure to keep records of everything you submit, and if possible, get written confirmation from your benefits caseworker about how they're classifying the account. This documentation will help if there are ever questions in the future.
Just wanted to share my experience as a 17yo with a part-time job and a UTMA. My grandma set up a UTMA for me when I was 10. For the job income: I made about $8k last year but still filed taxes to get back the money withheld from my checks (got like $400 back!) For the UTMA: It earned about $300 in dividends and interest. My parents accountant said I didn't technically need to file for that since it was under $1,150, but we did anyway just to keep everything proper. The most important thing was documentation. We gave our HUD housing office copies showing it was a restricted account that nobody could touch until I turn 21. They wrote in their notes that it doesn't count toward our household income/assets.
Did your grandma have to file any gift tax returns when she put money in your UTMA? My parents are worried about that part.
Had the same error code last year. In my case, I had started a return using TurboTax, then switched to H&R Block software but the TurboTax one had already been submitted even though I never finished it. Check if you started returns on multiple platforms or if you maybe authorized a preparer to file an extension for you. Worst case, do what others suggested - file a paper extension today and sort out the details later. As long as you get that postmarked today, you'll avoid the late filing penalty. Then take your time figuring out what happened.
This happened to my brother too! TurboTax apparently auto-submitted something even though he hadn't finished. The whole system is ridiculous. He ended up having to file an identity theft affidavit just to get his actual return processed.
Yeah, many tax software platforms have automatic submission features that aren't always clearly explained. Some will submit a partial return or an extension if you've entered basic info but haven't completed the process. It's always worth checking with any software you might have used. It's actually a lot more common than people realize. The IRS systems aren't great at distinguishing between a completed return and one that was just initiated with basic information. That's why filing that paper extension is so important - it gives you documentation and time to sort everything out.
I'm a tax preparer and see this frequently. Another possibility: if you received certain benefits last year (like stimulus or advance child tax credit), the IRS system sometimes treats the information return for those payments as an actual tax return. Call the IRS Practitioner Priority Line if possible - they can sometimes see things in the system that regular customer service can't.
Is there any way normal people can access that Practitioner line? Or do you need some kind of credentials?
My tax guy says the standard deduction is so high now ($13,850 for single filers in 2024) that most people don't even need to itemize anymore, which means most receipt-tracking is pointless unless you're self-employed or have a ton of other deductions that would push you over that threshold.
But aren't there still some above-the-line deductions that you can take even if you don't itemize? I thought stuff like HSA contributions and student loan interest didn't require itemizing?
You're absolutely right about above-the-line deductions! Those don't require itemizing and can be claimed in addition to the standard deduction. Common above-the-line deductions include HSA contributions, student loan interest (up to $2,500), certain IRA contributions, and self-employment tax. These appear on Schedule 1 of Form 1040 and reduce your adjusted gross income directly.
Does anyone know if the IRS has an official list somewhere of what receipts we actually need to keep? I've heard different things about how long to keep them too - 3 years? 7 years?
The IRS recommends keeping records that support income, deductions, or credits for 3 years from when you filed the return. But if you underreport income by more than 25%, keep records for 6 years. For property records (like your home), keep them until you sell the property plus 3 more years.
AstroAlpha
Just to add another perspective - even if you don't technically have to file for such a small amount, there are advantages to filing Schedule C anyway. You can establish a pattern of business expenses that can help if you're ever audited in future years when you make more money. Plus, those business losses can sometimes offset other income. I've been running my small woodworking business for years and always file even in low income years.
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Yara Khoury
ā¢How many years can you show losses before the IRS considers your business a hobby though? I heard they get suspicious if you're always operating at a loss.
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AstroAlpha
ā¢The IRS generally expects you to show a profit in at least 3 of the last 5 tax years to be considered a legitimate business rather than a hobby. If you consistently show losses year after year, that's when they might question whether you have a profit motive. However, for a new business like yours, it's completely normal to have losses or very small profits in the beginning years. They understand businesses take time to become profitable. Just make sure you're operating in a businesslike manner - keep good records, have a separate business bank account, and be working toward profitability.
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Keisha Taylor
Has anyone used TurboTax for filing Schedule C for a tiny business like this? Is it worth the extra cost for the self-employed version?
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Paolo Longo
ā¢I've used TurboTax Self-Employed for my small Etsy shop and it works fine, but honestly it's overkill if you just have a few transactions. You might be better off with FreeTaxUSA which is a lot cheaper and handles Schedule C just fine for simple situations.
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