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Just wanted to add for the original poster - don't forget that foreign interest may also be subject to the Foreign Tax Credit if your brother paid Australian tax on that interest income. Form 1116 would be used for that, which is another form entirely. It gets complicated fast with foreign income!
Thanks for mentioning this! Do you know if the Foreign Tax Credit is worth claiming for such a small amount ($65)? Is there a minimum threshold where it makes sense to bother with Form 1116?
For just $65 of interest income, the Foreign Tax Credit might not be worth the additional paperwork. Form 1116 is pretty complex and time-consuming to complete correctly. As a general rule, I usually don't bother with Form 1116 unless the foreign tax paid is at least $300-400, given the time and complexity involved. However, there's no minimum threshold requirement - you can claim it for any amount. If your brother plans to have more significant foreign income in the future, it might be worth establishing the pattern now. It's really a judgment call based on how much Australian tax was actually paid on that interest and how much you value your time versus the small credit amount.
Something nobody has mentioned yet - if your brother's foreign financial accounts exceeded $10,000 at any point during the year, he'll need to file FinCEN Form 114 (FBAR) separately from his tax return. The penalties for not filing this are insanely high, like $10,000+ for non-willful violations.
Something no one has mentioned yet - you might actually be OWED money by the IRS if you had any withholding from that W2 job when you were 17. If you were under the filing threshold but had taxes withheld, you could have been due a refund. Unfortunately, you can only claim refunds for 3 years back, so that money is probably gone now. But going forward, make sure you're looking at the whole picture - it's not always just about what you owe them.
I never even thought about that. Is it possible I missed out on refunds from my self-employment years too? I definitely had some business expenses that I'm guessing would have been deductible.
Yes, it's entirely possible you could have qualified for refunds during your self-employment years too. As a self-employed plumber, you likely had significant business expenses that would have been deductible - tools, supplies, vehicle expenses, mileage, possibly even a portion of your phone bill or home expenses if you used them for business purposes. The unfortunate reality is that if those potential refunds were from more than 3 years ago, they're likely forfeited. However, this is even more reason to get current with your tax filing - you might be leaving money on the table for more recent years, and you'll want to properly claim your legitimate business deductions going forward.
I work in construction too and my boss paid me under the table for years. Finally got caught when I tried to get a mortgage and couldn't prove my income. My advice - fix this BEFORE you need a loan, want to buy a house, or try to do anything that requires proof of income. Not filing makes life complicated in ways you don't expect until you hit them. Plus, you're missing out on things like Social Security credits that will matter when you're older.
One thing to consider is whether the standard mileage rate or actual expenses method is better for you. I've been self-employed for 5 years and I've tried both. If you have an older, fuel-efficient car with minimal repairs, the standard mileage rate (58.5 cents/mile) usually gives you a bigger deduction. If you have a newer, expensive vehicle with high costs (lease payments, interest, expensive repairs), the actual expenses method might be better. Just remember, if you use actual expenses, you can only deduct the business percentage of your total vehicle expenses. So if you use your car 60% for business and 40% for personal, you can only deduct 60% of your actual costs.
If I choose actual expenses the first year, can I switch to standard mileage the next year if that works out better? Or am I locked into one method?
If you use the standard mileage rate the first year you use the car for business, you can switch between methods in subsequent years. However, if you use actual expenses the first year, you're locked into that method for the life of that vehicle for business purposes. That's why many tax professionals recommend using standard mileage the first year even if actual expenses might be slightly better - it preserves your flexibility to switch methods later if your situation changes. Once you choose actual expenses initially, you can't go back to standard mileage for that same vehicle.
Heads up - don't forget the mileage you drive for medical purposes (21 cents per mile) and charitable purposes (14 cents per mile) have separate rates from business mileage! I messed this up on my taxes last year and had to file an amendment.
Have you considered filing quarterly estimated tax payments to cover the difference? That's what I did when I had a similar situation. It's not ideal since you're basically doing extra work to cover your employer's mistake, but it does prevent you from owing penalties. You just calculate approximately how much extra you need to pay each quarter and submit it using Form 1040-ES. The IRS doesn't care where the money comes from as long as they get it in time (either through withholding or estimated payments).
I hadn't thought about estimated payments! That might be a good backup plan if I can't get my employer to fix the withholding. Do you know if there's a minimum amount required for estimated payments? And what are the deadlines for those?
There's no minimum amount for estimated tax payments - you can pay whatever you need to make up the difference. The quarterly due dates are usually April 15, June 15, September 15, and January 15 of the following year (though they can shift slightly if those dates fall on weekends or holidays). Just be sure you're paying enough to meet one of the "safe harbor" provisions to avoid penalties: either 90% of this year's tax or 100% of last year's tax (110% if your AGI was over $150,000). I used the IRS Direct Pay system online which makes it pretty easy to submit payments, and you get immediate confirmation.
Can't you just submit a new W-4 with an extra withholding amount? That's what my aunt did when this happened to her. She just calculated how much she was short by the previous year, divided by her pay periods, and put that on line 4(c).
Amina Diallo
Just FYI - this issue happens because in 2020 the IRS moved nonemployee compensation from 1099-MISC box 7 to the new 1099-NEC form. Many businesses still haven't updated their accounting systems and are using outdated forms incorrectly. If your editing work was done as an independent contractor, it should be on a 1099-NEC nowadays, not in ANY box on a 1099-MISC.
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Oliver Schulz
β’So what happens if the company refuses to give me a corrected form? My former client insists they're right even though I know they're using the wrong form.
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Amina Diallo
β’If they refuse to correct the form, document your attempts to get it fixed (keep emails or notes from phone calls). Report the income correctly on your tax return using Schedule C regardless of their error. You can also file Form 8919 "Uncollected Social Security and Medicare Tax on Wages" if you believe you were misclassified as an independent contractor when you should have been an employee. The IRS may contact the company directly once they see the discrepancy in reporting methods.
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Natasha Orlova
Has anyone used TurboTax to handle this situation? I'm wondering if it will flag this as an error when I input the 1099-MISC with amounts in box 1 but indicate it's for freelance work.
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Javier Cruz
β’I used TurboTax last year with a similar issue. Just enter the 1099-MISC exactly as it appears, but when it asks what type of income it is, select "business/self-employment" rather than "rental income." The software will place it correctly on Schedule C. It might give you a warning about the mismatch, but you can add a note explaining the company issued it incorrectly.
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