


Ask the community...
You might want to consider a simplified method as well. If your rental activity is relatively small, you could look at using Form 8829 (for business use of home) as a guide, even though it's technically for Schedule C not Schedule E. The square footage method is definitely the most defensible approach. Just make sure you take photos of the space and keep good records of all your measurements. I learned this the hard way when I got audited for my rental property depreciation calculations a few years back. Also, don't forget that you can only depreciate the structure, not the land. So you'll need to determine what percentage of your property value is the building. Your property tax assessment usually breaks this down, or you can use a reasonable estimate (typically 80% building/20% land in many residential areas, but it varies widely).
Thanks for the advice! Would using Form 8829 as a guide potentially raise red flags with the IRS since it's technically for business use rather than rental property? And do you know if there's a specific depreciation schedule I should be using for residential rental property?
I wouldn't use Form 8829 itself, just the methodology as a reference point. For rental properties, you'll be recording everything on Schedule E. The depreciation schedule for residential rental property is 27.5 years using the straight-line method. You'll report this on Form 4562. If this is your first year renting the property, you'll need to establish the "basis" of the property (usually what you paid for it, plus certain closing costs and improvements, minus the value of the land). Then you'll apply your rental percentage to that basis to determine the depreciable amount, and divide by 27.5 years to get your annual depreciation deduction.
Is anyone else noticing that using TurboTax for rental property depreciation is a total nightmare? I've been trying to enter my rental room information but it keeps giving me strange calculations.
I switched to FreeTaxUSA last year and found it much better for rental properties. It asks clearer questions about partial rentals and walks you through the depreciation calculations step by step. Plus it's a lot cheaper than TurboTax.
Thanks for the recommendation! I'll definitely check that out. TurboTax has been so frustrating with this rental stuff that I was considering paying an accountant just for this part of my taxes.
3 Quick tip: if you're filing a prior year tax return specifically for FAFSA, check with your school's financial aid office FIRST. Some schools have alternative documentation options if you're in a non-filing situation. They might accept a Verification of Non-filing Letter from the IRS instead, which is easier to get than filing a complete back tax return.
12 How do you get a Verification of Non-filing Letter though? Doesn't that also require contacting the IRS?
3 You can request a Verification of Non-filing Letter by using IRS Form 4506-T. Mark box 7 on the form to request the verification of non-filing, and you can either mail it in or fax it to the IRS. Some schools will also accept a signed statement certifying that you didn't file and weren't required to file, especially if you had no income that year. Every financial aid office handles these situations a bit differently, which is why it's important to speak directly with your school's aid counselors. They deal with these situations regularly and often have school-specific procedures that can save you time.
16 Has anyone used FreeTaxUSA for prior year returns? I know you still have to mail them in for 2021, but I've heard their software is much cheaper than TurboTax for preparing old returns.
23 I used FreeTaxUSA for a 2020 return I had to file late. It was only like $15 for the federal return (state was another fee). The interface is less polished than TurboTax but it gets the job done and asks all the same questions. They keep prior year returns available which is nice.
One thing nobody's mentioned yet is that there's actually a case where the tuition might be deductible as an *unreimbursed employee business expense* - but only if you itemize deductions AND only for the portion that exceeds 2% of your AGI. It's under Schedule A. This might be relevant if your graduate program is expensive enough that even with the 2% floor, you'd still have a substantial deduction. Just another avenue to explore!
Wait, I thought the Tax Cuts and Jobs Act eliminated unreimbursed employee business expenses completely for 2018-2025? Aren't we unable to claim those right now?
You're absolutely right, and I apologize for the misinformation. The Tax Cuts and Jobs Act suspended miscellaneous itemized deductions subject to the 2% floor (including unreimbursed employee business expenses) for tax years 2018 through 2025. That's a really important correction - so currently the work-related education expenses would only be deductible if you're self-employed or if your employer reimburses you through an accountable plan. For employees paying out of pocket, the options are much more limited now until those provisions possibly return after 2025.
Just to add something that might be useful - if your graduate program doesn't qualify for the work-related deduction, don't forget to check if you're eligible for education tax credits like the Lifetime Learning Credit! It's worth up to $2,000 per tax return and has more flexible requirements than the work-related education deduction.
The Lifetime Learning Credit phases out at higher income levels though, right? I think around $80k for singles? Might not help if OP has a good job in their field already.
I'm a bit late to this thread but wanted to add something important: make sure you're using specific identification method for your crypto, not FIFO, if you're doing a lot of trading. With specific ID, you can choose which units you're selling which can make a big difference in your tax situation.
What's FIFO? And how do I know which method my exchange is using? I've been using Coinbase and just downloading their tax forms.
FIFO stands for "First In, First Out" - it means when you sell crypto, the system assumes you're selling your oldest purchases first. This can result in higher taxes if your earliest purchases were at lower prices. Coinbase provides the data, but they don't actually choose your accounting method for you - that's your choice when you file your taxes. Many tax software programs default to FIFO because it's simpler, but you can usually change to specific identification method which lets you choose which specific units you're selling (like choosing to sell the ones you bought at higher prices first to minimize gains).
Has anyone noticed that the exchanges don't always give accurate cost basis info? My 1099 from Coinbase showed completely different numbers than what I calculated myself.
Paige Cantoni
Has anyone used TurboTax for reporting Roth conversions with blank state distribution boxes? Does it handle this situation correctly or do I need to override something?
0 coins
Kylo Ren
ā¢I used TurboTax last year for this exact scenario. It correctly handled the state portion when I entered the 1099-R information. The software asked if the distribution was reported to my state, and I selected "yes" even though box 16 was blank. It then properly reported it on my state return without taxing the after-tax portion. Just make sure your 8606 history is accurate in the software too.
0 coins
Nina Fitzgerald
One important thing to note - if your state taxes retirement distributions differently than the federal government, you might need to make adjustments on your state return. For example, some states exempt retirement income up to certain limits, while others fully tax it regardless of whether it was taxed federally. Check your state's department of revenue website for specific guidance on Roth conversions. Most states have publications that explain their treatment of retirement distributions, including Roth conversions. That's the most reliable source rather than hoping a tax preparer gets it right.
0 coins