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One thing nobody's mentioned yet - since you're becoming a 1099, you'll need to make estimated quarterly tax payments. This was the biggest shock to me when I switched to contracting. You'll need to pay taxes four times a year (Apr 15, Jun 15, Sep 15, Jan 15) instead of having them withheld from each paycheck. If you don't, you could face underpayment penalties. Given your income level, you should definitely look into an S-Corp election once you've been doing this for a while. At $105k, you could potentially save thousands by taking part of your income as distributions instead of all as self-employment income.
Can you explain more about the S-Corp thing? I'm in a similar situation to OP and keep hearing about S-Corps but don't really understand the benefit.
Sure! With an S-Corp, you pay yourself a "reasonable salary" that's subject to self-employment tax (the 15.3% for Social Security and Medicare). Then you can take the rest of your profit as distributions, which aren't subject to self-employment tax. For example, if your business makes $105k, you might pay yourself a salary of $65k (which would be subject to self-employment tax) and take $40k as distributions (which would only be subject to income tax, not self-employment tax). This could save you about $6,120 in self-employment taxes (15.3% of $40k). The key is that your salary must be "reasonable" for your industry and role - you can't just pay yourself $20k and take $85k as distributions. There are also additional costs like increased accounting fees and payroll processing. Generally makes sense once you're earning over $80-100k consistently.
Don't overlook the QBI deduction (Qualified Business Income) - as a 1099 contractor you can deduct up to 20% of your qualified business income! This is HUGE and many people miss it. So if your net business income after expenses is $98,000, you might be able to deduct another $19,600 from your taxable income. This is on top of your solo 401(k) contributions and business expenses. The solo 401(k) is definitely your best bet though - the ability to contribute both as employer and employee is a game changer.
But doesn't the QBI deduction phase out at higher income levels? Im not sure OP would qualify with $105k income.
One option nobody's mentioned is free tax filing through the IRS Free File program. If your income is under $73,000, you can use brand-name tax software for free through IRS.gov. Even if you make more than that, you can use Free File Fillable Forms. I've used this for years with investment income (1099s) and it works great. You could file the extension now for free AND possibly do your full return for free when you get back.
Really? I thought Free File was only for super simple returns. Can it handle things like stock sales and early retirement distributions? I'm not confident in doing all those calculations myself.
Free File through partner companies (like TurboTax, H&R Block, etc.) can absolutely handle stock sales and retirement distributions if you qualify by income. The software is the same as their paid versions, just offered free through the IRS partnership. If you use Free File Fillable Forms (the direct IRS option), it's basically just electronic versions of paper forms with basic calculations. That option requires more tax knowledge since you need to know which forms to fill out, but it's still free and available to everyone regardless of income. For your situation, I'd recommend using one of the Free File partner software options to file your extension now. Then when you return, you can use the same service to complete your full return with all your investment documents. Much better than paying hundreds to a storefront preparer!
I work seasonally on fishing boats in Alaska and deal with this every year. My advice: DEFINITELY file the extension. I made the mistake of not filing once and the failure-to-file penalty was brutal compared to just the failure-to-pay. When you get back from your contract and have cash, call the IRS and set up a payment plan if needed. They're actually pretty reasonable to work with if you're proactive and honest about your situation.
I second this. The IRS is much more accommodating than people expect when you're upfront about your situation. I've been on payment plans twice and it was simple to set up. The interest rates are usually better than credit cards too.
One thing to keep in mind - make sure you're getting the W-9 forms from the ACTUAL property owner, not just the management company. I made this mistake with my pop-up shop and issued 1099s to the wrong entity. Had to amend everything and it was a huge headache. Also, some malls are owned by REITs (Real Estate Investment Trusts) which have different tax reporting requirements. Definitely worth asking specifically about this when you collect their info.
Thanks for bringing this up - good point! How do I verify I'm getting the W-9 from the actual property owner? The lease agreement I sign is always with the mall management company.
The lease agreement can be tricky because sometimes the management company is authorized to sign on behalf of the property owner. You should specifically ask "Who is the legal owner of this property that will be reporting the rental income for tax purposes?" That question usually clarifies things. The W-9 itself will also tell you - look at the name and tax ID. If it's a different entity than what's on your lease, ask for clarification. Sometimes the management company will provide a letter explaining the relationship between the entities if they're affiliated.
Has anyone dealt with situations where different mall locations are owned by the same parent company? I'm wondering if I add up all the rental payments to different locations owned by the same company when determining if I've hit the $600 threshold?
Yes, you would aggregate payments to the same legal entity. So if Mall A and Mall B are both owned by XYZ Properties Inc., you'd add up all payments to XYZ when determining if you've exceeded $600. That's why getting those W-9s is so important - to identify when different locations have the same ultimate payee.
That makes sense, thanks for the clarification! Guess I need to start tracking these payments by parent company instead of just by location.
I worked at a bank that got acquired (not First Republic but similar situation) and had some stock in my Roth IRA too. One thing nobody's mentioned - can you roll over your Roth IRA to another provider and possibly get some better investment options to help rebuild what you lost? I moved mine to Fidelity and their advisors helped me rebalance with some funds that have performed pretty well since then. Won't fix the tax situation but might help recover some value over time.
That's actually a really helpful suggestion! I hadn't thought about switching providers, but it makes sense to look for better investment options. Did you have any fees when you moved your Roth IRA to Fidelity? And how long did the whole process take?
No fees to transfer the Roth IRA to Fidelity - most major brokerages don't charge for incoming transfers. The whole process took about 2 weeks from starting the paperwork to having everything settled in the new account. Fidelity handled most of the transfer work once I filled out their forms. The good part was getting access to their research tools and fund options. I met with one of their advisors (free consultation) who suggested a portfolio mix based on my retirement timeline that's been working well.
Don't forget that while you can't deduct the ROTH IRA losses, you still have all the contributions you've made available to withdraw at any time without taxes or penalties. That's one of the biggest advantages of a Roth vs traditional IRA. If you really need access to some funds, you can withdraw your contributions (but not earnings) without any tax consequences. Just make sure to check exactly how much you've contributed over the years so you don't accidentally withdraw any earnings.
This is a really important point! I had a similar situation happen and it's easy to focus on the loss and forget that the money you put in is still accessible if needed.
Lourdes Fox
Former rideshare driver here. The key distinction for the mileage deduction is whether you're "on the clock" or not. Here's how I handled it after consulting with my accountant: 1. Commuting to your "work area" with app OFF: NOT deductible 2. Driving to work area with app ON and available: Deductible 3. Driving between rides with app ON: Deductible 4. Driving home with app OFF after last ride: NOT deductible 5. Driving home with app still ON and available: Deductible I kept a detailed log showing when my app was on vs. off, and my accountant said this approach was perfectly acceptable for tax purposes. Just don't try to claim regular commuting miles when you're not actually available for work.
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Bruno Simmons
ā¢Does this apply to other gig work too? I do Instacart and sometimes drive to a busier area to get better batches. Can I deduct that drive if I have the app open and am willing to accept orders?
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Lourdes Fox
ā¢Yes, the same concept applies to other gig work like Instacart. If you have your app open and are available to accept orders during your drive to a busier area, those miles would generally be considered business miles and therefore deductible. The critical factor is that you must be actively working (app on, available) during that time. If you're just driving to an area with your app off, and then turning it on once you arrive, that would be considered non-deductible commuting. Record keeping is essential - note when your app is active and you're available to work.
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Aileen Rodriguez
Dont 4get to deduct part of ur phone bill and data plan too! When i filed my taxes for uber last year i deducted 80% of my phone costs cuz thats bout how much i use it for the app. also car washes, hand sanitizer, water/snacks for customers if u provide those. lots of little things add up!!
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Zane Gray
ā¢I'm always worried about claiming too many deductions and getting audited. Are you sure all those things are legit deductions? Especially the phone bill part?
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