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Something important nobody's mentioned yet - if you have any assets the IRS can identify (investment accounts, property, etc.) and they believe you're waiting out the statute, they might get more aggressive in the final months. Just happened to my brother. He was 5 months from his CSED and the IRS suddenly levied his 401k. They'd been quiet for years and then boom - aggressive action. Make sure you understand what assets might be vulnerable during these final months.
This is so true. My CSED was approaching and they suddenly filed a levy against my bank account after 2 years of no contact. The IRS collection system flags accounts approaching CSED for "last chance" collection attempts.
Exactly. They have automated systems that flag accounts as the CSED approaches. If the amount is substantial enough, they'll allocate resources to make one final collection attempt. They're particularly interested in retirement accounts, real estate equity, and investment portfolios. They sometimes even check social media for signs of lifestyle inconsistent with someone claiming inability to pay. Best to maintain a low profile during these final months and be prepared for possible levies on known assets.
Has anyone checked if bankruptcy might be a better option with only 7 months to go? I know it pauses the CSED but in some cases it actually resolves the tax debt if they're old enough.
Bankruptcy might discharge income taxes if they meet certain criteria - generally they need to be from returns filed at least 2 years before bankruptcy, for tax years at least 3 years old, and assessed at least 240 days before filing. With a CSED 7 months away, these taxes might qualify. However, bankruptcy is a nuclear option that affects credit for years. If OP can wait 7 months for the CSED to expire naturally, that's probably cleaner than bankruptcy. Also, tax liens on property sometimes survive bankruptcy depending on equity and exemptions.
Thanks for the detailed explanation. I didn't realize the timing requirements were so specific for tax debt discharge. Sounds like waiting out the 7 months is probably less disruptive if OP can manage it without the IRS taking aggressive collection action. Makes sense about the property liens too - I've heard those can be complicated even after bankruptcy. Seven months isn't that long in the grand scheme of things.
Another option - check if your 529 plan's website has a tax credit calculator tool! My state's 529 plan (Virginia) has a simple calculator where you put in your income and contribution amount, and it tells you exactly what your state tax credit will be. Makes it super easy to play around with different contribution amounts to find the sweet spot. Most of the major state plans have these now. Much easier than trying to decode the tax instructions yourself.
Do these calculators take into account things like income phase-outs and other limitations? Sometimes I worry those online tools are oversimplified and miss the details.
Most of the good ones do factor in phase-outs and limitations! The Virginia one specifically asks for your income and filing status, then applies any phase-outs automatically. I've found them to be pretty accurate. The one limitation I've noticed is that some calculators don't handle multiple beneficiaries well. So if you're contributing to 529 plans for multiple people and your state allows credits for each, you might need to do some additional calculations yourself.
One thing that tripped me up with my 529 credit - make sure you're not confusing deductions vs. credits! Some states offer DEDUCTIONS for 529 contributions (which reduce your taxable income) while others offer CREDITS (which directly reduce your tax bill dollar-for-dollar). Credits are way more valuable! A $1,000 tax credit saves you exactly $1,000. A $1,000 tax deduction might only save you $40-$70 depending on your tax bracket.
Great point! I misunderstood this for years and was excited about my state's "$5,000 529 benefit" until I realized it was a deduction, not a credit. At my tax rate that's only saving me about $250, not $5,000!
Exactly! The terminology makes a huge difference. I've found that states with deductions often allow much higher amounts ($10,000+ in some cases) while states with credits usually have lower limits but they're worth more dollar-for-dollar. It's also worth checking if your state allows carryforward of excess contributions. Some states let you carry forward contributions beyond the annual limit to get the deduction/credit in future years.
Something nobody's mentioned yet - if you're in a high property tax state like NJ, NY or CA, the $10k SALT cap (State And Local Tax deduction limit) really affects whether mortgage interest helps you. My property taxes alone are $14k, but I can only deduct $10k of that. So even with $12k in mortgage interest, my itemized deductions barely exceed the standard deduction for married filing jointly. Before the 2017 tax law changes, having a mortgage was a no-brainer tax benefit for most homeowners. Now it really depends on your specific situation.
That's a really good point I hadn't considered! My property taxes are around $8k, and with state income tax on top of that, I'm definitely hitting that $10k SALT cap. Maybe that's partly why my mortgage interest doesn't seem to be helping at all with my taxes. Would you say it made sense for you to keep your mortgage or are you considering paying it off too?
I'm in a similar position to you - considering whether to keep or pay off my mortgage. For me, the math works out that I'm getting very minimal tax benefit from the mortgage interest. I'm getting maybe a $1,000 extra deduction from itemizing versus taking the standard deduction. At a 24% tax bracket, that's saving me about $240 in taxes while I'm paying far more in interest. I'm actually planning to pay off a significant chunk of my mortgage this year. Not the whole thing, but enough to reduce my interest to the point where I'll just take the standard deduction going forward. The psychological benefit of having a much smaller mortgage outweighs the tiny tax advantage for me.
Remember that even if mortgage interest isn't giving you a tax benefit now, if interest rates rise and your income increases, that could change in the future. I've seen ppl pay off mortgages then regret it when their tax situation changed a few years later and they could have benefited from the deduction. Also don't forget about inflation! $300k debt today will feel like much less in 15-20 years with normal inflation.
Just a tip from someone who's been claiming education credits for years - make sure you keep all your receipts for qualified education expenses! Not just tuition, but also required books and supplies. The Lifetime Learning Credit can be claimed for an unlimited number of years (unlike the American Opportunity Credit which is only for 4 years), so it's great for graduate school or professional development courses. And yes, it works with the standard deduction! They're completely separate parts of your tax return.
Do student loan interest and the lifetime learning credit work together too? Or is that a different thing entirely?
Student loan interest deduction and the Lifetime Learning Credit are separate tax benefits and yes, you can claim both in the same year if you qualify for both! The student loan interest deduction allows you to deduct up to $2,500 in interest paid on qualified student loans, and it's also an "above-the-line" deduction that you can take regardless of whether you itemize or take the standard deduction. So potentially, you could take the standard deduction, deduct student loan interest, AND claim the Lifetime Learning Credit all on the same return.
Anyone know which tax software handles the Lifetime Learning Credit the best? I tried using the free version of TaxAct last year and it kept trying to upgrade me to the paid version when I mentioned education expenses.
Mateo Rodriguez
Have u tried clicking the "explain why" button in FreeTaxUSA? Sometimes they have explanations for why you don't qualify for certain credits. With your income that low, it might be that they're calculating you don't have enough tax liability for the non-refundable portion, but they should still give you the refundable part of the American Opportunity Credit.
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GalaxyGuardian
ā¢This is good advice. FreeTaxUSA actually has pretty detailed explanations if you click the info buttons. Last year it told me exactly why I didn't qualify for a credit I thought I should get (turned out I had checked a box wrong).
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Aisha Abdullah
If both programs are still showing different results after double-checking everything, you might want to just run your taxes through a third software as a tiebreaker. I use Cash App Taxes (formerly Credit Karma Tax) and it's completely free for federal and state. That way you can see if a third calculation matches either TurboTax or FreeTaxUSA.
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Ethan Wilson
ā¢This is what I do every year! I always run my taxes through at least 2 different programs to compare results. Caught a $1200 difference last year because one program missed a deduction. I just file with whichever one gives me the best refund (assuming it's correct!
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Freya Thomsen
ā¢That's actually a really good idea, I didn't know Cash App did taxes! I'll try that tonight and see what it says about the education credits. Hopefully it'll help clear this up. Taxes shouldn't be this complicated for someone making under 10k a year lol
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