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One thing no one's mentioned is that municipal bond interest is generally exempt from federal taxes. If you're trying to generate income while keeping your taxable income low, muni bonds could be worth looking into as part of your strategy. Just make sure you understand the state tax implications as well!
Are municipal bonds still worth it though? The yield is typically lower than corporate bonds or dividend stocks because of the tax advantage. Wouldn't it make more sense to just keep total income under the standard deduction with higher-yielding investments?
It really depends on your total income needs. If you need more income than the standard deduction would shelter, then municipal bonds become valuable because that portion remains tax-free regardless. For someone who needs, say, $30,000 in annual income, they could take $14,600 from taxable sources (covered by the standard deduction) and the rest from municipal bonds, effectively paying zero federal tax on the full amount. If your income needs are below the standard deduction, then yes, higher-yielding taxable investments make more sense mathematically.
Don't forget about state taxes! Even if your federal taxable income is zero, many states have different rules and lower standard deductions. I learned this the hard way when I thought I'd owe no taxes but got hit with a state tax bill.
One important thing to remember with ESPPs - keep detailed records of all your purchases! Document the purchase dates, prices you paid, fair market value on purchase dates, and the discount percentage. When you eventually sell these shares, you'll need this information to correctly calculate your cost basis and determine if you have qualifying or dis
That's a really good point! Is there an easy way to track all this? Does Fidelity keep those records or should I be maintaining my own spreadsheet?
Fidelity should track the basic purchase info, but in my experience they don't always get the specifics right for tax purposes - especially for older shares. I'd recommend keeping your own records. A simple spreadsheet works great - just note the purchase date, number of shares, what you paid (including any discount), and what the fair market value was on purchase day. Also track the discount percentage your plan offers. Add the sale info when you eventually sell. This saved me tons of headaches at tax time.
I've had an ESPP for almost a decade now and the most important thing to understand is the difference between qualifying and disqualifying dispositions when you do eventually sell. To get preferential tax treatment (pay less), you typically need to hold the shares for AT LEAST 1 year after the purchase date AND 2 years after the offering date. If you sell earlier, it's a disqualifying disposition and you'll pay ordinary income tax rates on the gains. Just something to keep in mind as you continue to hold those shares.
The offering date vs purchase date distinction tripped me up! My company has 6-month offering periods, and I sold some shares exactly 1 year after purchase thinking I was good, but it was only 18 months after the offering date. Ended up with a disqualifying disposition without realizing it!
Another thing to consider with your side mirror - if you have rideshare insurance, some policies might cover cosmetic damages with a lower deductible than regular repairs. Worth checking with your insurance before paying out of pocket for things like this. I learned this the hard way after paying for similar repairs myself!
Thank you for that suggestion! I honestly didn't even think about checking with my insurance. Do you know if making a claim would affect my rates for rideshare insurance differently than regular insurance?
It depends on your specific policy, but many rideshare insurance providers understand that minor cosmetic damages are more common in this line of work. I've filed two small claims in the past year and my rates only went up slightly - much less than the cost of paying for the repairs out of pocket. Make sure to ask specifically about their policy for minor cosmetic repairs for rideshare vehicles. Some have special provisions that won't count these types of claims against you as heavily as accident claims.
For what it's worth, I switched from standard mileage to actual expenses last year for my rideshare taxes. It's definitely more work tracking everything, but I ended up with a MUCH bigger deduction. If your car is newer or you have lots of repairs/high costs, actual expenses method might be worth considering.
How much more in deductions did you get with actual expenses vs standard mileage? I drive about 30k miles a year for rideshare in a 2020 Toyota Camry and I'm wondering if I should switch.
Stupid question maybe but is the 1099-SA amount supposed to match exactly what I spent on medical? Mine shows $1,275 distributed but I only spent about $950 on doctor visits and prescriptions. Should I be worried?
Not a stupid question at all! The amounts don't necessarily need to match. The 1099-SA reports the total distributions from your HSA, regardless of how you used the money. If you withdrew more than you spent on qualified medical expenses, you have a few options: 1. If you have other unreimbursed medical expenses from the year, even ones you paid from your regular bank account, you can "retroactively" consider those covered by your HSA distribution 2. You can return the excess distribution to your HSA if you're still within the time limit (usually before tax filing deadline) 3. If neither applies, you'll need to report the difference ($325 in your case) as a non-qualified distribution, which would be subject to income tax plus a 20% penalty
If your employer contributed to your HSA, remember that shows up on a different form (5498-SA) and you don't include that in your income. Only the 1099-SA (distributions) needs to be reported on your taxes. I got confused my first year and thought I needed to report my employer contributions as income. Thankfully I figured it out before filing!
This is good to know! I have contributions coming out of my paycheck - are those considered employer contributions or employee contributions? And should they show on my W2 somewhere?
Contributions made through payroll deduction are considered employee contributions, even though they're taken out before taxes. They should appear on your W-2 in Box 12 with code W. This means they've already been excluded from your taxable wages in Box 1. If your employer makes additional contributions beyond what comes out of your paycheck, those are employer contributions. Both types will be reported on Form 5498-SA which you usually receive in May (after tax filing season), but you don't need to wait for that form to file your taxes.
Marcus Williams
Another thing to be aware of with superseding returns - if you e-filed your original return, you may need to paper file the superseding one. Some tax software doesn't support e-filing superseding returns, and they'll need to be printed and mailed. Make sure you write "SUPERSEDING RETURN" at the top of the first page so the IRS processes it correctly! I learned this the hard way last year when my return got processed as an amended return instead.
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Taylor Chen
ā¢Thanks for mentioning this! My tax software actually does have an e-file option for superseding returns, but it specifically says to expect a paper check for the refund rather than direct deposit. Do you know if that's always the case or just depends on the timing?
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Marcus Williams
ā¢It depends on the timing and how the IRS processes your return. Some people do receive direct deposits for superseding returns, but paper checks are more common because the superseding return often triggers a manual review process. If your software allows e-filing for the superseding return, that's great! It will process faster than paper filing. Just make sure the software properly marks it as superseding (rather than amended) in the electronic submission. Expect your refund to take a bit longer than the standard 21 days - mine took about 5 weeks last year.
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Lily Young
I worked at a tax preparation office and saw this confusion a lot. Here's why the software is displaying things this way: The 1040X form is designed to show the DIFFERENCE between returns, so it's only showing your additional $2,200. But the actual 1040 shows the TOTAL refund of $7,500, which is what matters. The system is working correctly - the IRS will process your superseding return and issue the full $7,500. Don't stress about what the financial transaction summary shows; focus on the 1040 itself.
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Kennedy Morrison
ā¢Is there any way to check the status of a superseding return? The Where's My Refund tool only seems to recognize my original return.
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