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So I'm looking into converting my SEP IRA to a Roth IRA and feeling completely lost with all the tax implications. I'm self-employed photographer (about 6 years now) and I've been contributing to my SEP IRA pretty consistently, it's grown to about $68,000. My income fluctuates a lot year to year but I'm averaging around $75k. I'm wondering if it makes sense to do the conversion now or wait? I've heard about the "pro-rata rule" but honestly have no idea what that means for my situation. I don't have any other traditional IRAs. Also, will I have to pay taxes on the entire amount I convert? And can I do a partial conversion or is it all-or-nothing? I talked to a friend who did this last year and he said something about a "backdoor Roth" which sounds completely different? I'm 36 if that matters for any age-related rules. Thanks in advance for helping me figure this mess out!
Hey tax people! I started my small retail business in March and finally got around to setting up my LLC and EIN in July. Just opened my actual Business Bank Account last week (I know, I should have done this earlier). For the first 4-5 months, all my business income and expenses were flowing through my personal checking account since that's all I had. Now I'm totally confused about what to do for taxes. Should I be transferring the business income that went into my Personal Account back into my new Business Account to keep things clean? More importantly, can I still deduct all those legitimate business expenses I paid from my personal account before I had the business account set up? I got quoted by 1AccountPro for $3695 for annual tax services and bookkeeping, which seems crazy expensive for my small operation (I'm only making around $4-5k monthly in revenue). Not sure if services like that are worth it when I'm just getting started. Any advice from those who've been here before would be super appreciated!
Don't waste your money on fancy accounting services yet! Your situation is super common. I did the exact same thing with my photography business last year. Just open a spreadsheet and go through your personal account statements. Tag all business expenses and income from the past months. You can absolutely claim business expenses paid from personal funds - the IRS just wants to see that they were legitimate business expenses. For next year, keep it separate from day one. That accounting quote is WAY too high for your revenue level.
This is the right answer. I got quotes ranging from $2500-4000 for accounting when I started my consulting business. Ended up just using QuickBooks Online ($25/month) and hiring a tax preparer at the end of the year for $350. Saved thousands and learned a lot about my business finances in the process.
Your situation is totally normal for new business owners! I went through the exact same thing when I started my consulting LLC. Here's what I learned: You can absolutely deduct legitimate business expenses paid from your personal account - the IRS doesn't care which account you used, just that the expenses were truly for business purposes. Keep detailed records with dates, amounts, and business justification for each expense. No need to transfer old income to your new business account - that would just complicate your bookkeeping. Start using the business account going forward and treat the past months as a learning experience. That $3,695 quote is absolutely outrageous for your revenue level. I'm doing about $8k monthly and pay my CPA $450 annually for tax prep. For bookkeeping, I use QuickBooks Simple Start ($15/month) and spend maybe 1-2 hours monthly keeping things organized. My advice: create a simple Excel spreadsheet to track your mixed transactions from the past months, then use your new business account religiously going forward. You'll save thousands and actually understand your business finances better by handling the basics yourself initially.
I filed my return on 2/13 and got notified I needed to verify my identity. I did the online verification process last Thursday, but I'm anxious to confirm it actually went through since my transcript is still completely blank. I've been trying the 800-830-5084 number for identity verification but it's absolutely impossible to get through to anyone. The automated system just keeps hanging up on me because of 'high call volume' no matter what time of day I try. Does anyone know an alternative number or method to check if my ID verification was successful? Or how long it typically takes for transcripts to update after verifying?
I know several ppl have already mentioned this, but I have to second using claimyr.com to get through. I used it twice this year, once for verification and once for an amended return. Got a live agent both times without sitting on hold all day. Changed my whole tax season experience.
I'm in almost the exact same situation! Filed 2/12, did online verification last Friday, and my transcript is still completely blank too. Reading through all these responses is actually really reassuring - sounds like we just need to be patient for another week or two. The hardest part is not knowing if the verification actually worked, but it seems like most people who completed it online successfully just had to wait it out. Thanks for posting this question, it's helping me stress less about my own situation!
So I've been thinking about this situation that's come up and I'm not sure about the tax implications. My brother runs his own company and needs to fly across the country for a client meeting next month. I've accumulated a ton of airline miles over the years that are just sitting there unused. The flight he needs would cost about $1800 if he paid cash, but I could cover it with around 35k miles from my account. We were talking about him paying me maybe $900 for the miles instead - seems like a win-win since he saves money and I get some value from points I wasn't using. But then I started wondering - if I "sell" my airline miles to him like this, do I need to report that $900 as income on my taxes? Has anyone dealt with this before? It's not a huge amount of money but I'd rather not mess up come tax time.
Has anyone considered the actual value of the miles for tax purposes? If you "sell" $1800 worth of flights for $900, are you really making income? Couldn't you argue that you're actually taking a loss on the transaction? I mean, you acquired these miles through spending money somewhere else, right?
That's actually a really good point. The IRS typically considers miles/points earned from personal credit card spending as rebates on purchases, not income when earned. So if you earned these miles through personal spending (not business travel), you could potentially argue that your "basis" in the miles is whatever you spent to acquire them. The problem is calculating that basis - how do you determine what you "paid" for miles earned across dozens or hundreds of transactions? It gets complicated fast.
Thanks, that makes sense. I guess it would be nearly impossible to track the actual cost basis for miles earned over time across different purchases. Seems like this is one of those gray areas in tax law where there's no perfect answer. The whole miles/points economy is huge now but the tax rules haven't really caught up. Maybe the safest approach is just to report the income and pay the tax on it, especially for a one-time small transaction like this.
I've been dealing with a similar situation and ended up consulting with a tax professional about this exact scenario. Here's what I learned that might help: The key distinction is between the VALUE of what you're providing versus what you're receiving. Even though your brother is getting an $1800 flight for $900, you're still receiving $900 in cash that you didn't have before. From the IRS perspective, that's generally considered income regardless of the "retail value" of what you provided. However, there are a few practical considerations: 1. The airline won't issue you a 1099 for this transaction 2. Your brother isn't a business paying you, so he won't report it either 3. The IRS has limited visibility into these informal transactions That said, technically you should report the $900 as "other income" on your tax return. It's probably only going to result in an extra $200-300 in taxes depending on your bracket, but it keeps you compliant. One alternative approach: instead of a direct "sale," you could book the flight for him as a gift, and he could give you a separate "gift" of money. Gifts between family members under $18,000 aren't taxable to either party. Just make sure the timing and documentation don't make it look like a quid pro quo arrangement.
So I understand that when you sell stocks for a profit, the tax situation is different depending on how long you've owned them. If you sell after holding for less than a year, it's taxed as regular income (which is higher for me). But if you hold for more than a year, you get that sweet capital gains rate which is lower. But what about when you're selling at a loss? Does the IRS treat short-term losses (held less than a year) differently than long-term losses (held more than a year) when it comes to tax deductions? I've been cleaning up my portfolio and have some losers I'm thinking about dumping before year-end, but I'm wondering if I should be strategic about which ones I sell based on how long I've had them. I'm really just trying to figure out if I should prioritize selling some newer stocks I bought that tanked vs some older ones that also didn't work out. Any insight would be super helpful!
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - there's a "wash sale rule" that can really mess up your tax loss harvesting strategy. If you sell a stock at a loss and then buy it back within 30 days before or after the sale (61-day window total), you can't claim the loss for tax purposes! I learned this the hard way last year when I sold some TSLA at a loss and then bought it back two weeks later when it dropped more. My tax software flagged it and I couldn't use that $7,400 loss to offset gains.
Does that wash sale rule apply across different account types? Like if I sell something in my individual account at a loss, but then buy it in my IRA within 30 days, is that still considered a wash sale?
Yes, the wash sale rule definitely applies across different account types! The IRS considers all accounts you own when determining if a wash sale occurred. So if you sell a stock at a loss in your individual brokerage account and then buy it back within 30 days in your IRA, 401(k), or even your spouse's account, it's still considered a wash sale. This is one of those gotchas that people often miss. The rule is designed to prevent you from claiming artificial losses while maintaining essentially the same investment position. The IRS doesn't care which account you use to repurchase - they just don't want you claiming losses when you haven't truly exited the position.
An additional strategy to consider with losses: if you're in a low income year, you might want to actually harvest some long-term GAINS instead of losses. If your income is low enough to be in the 0% long-term capital gains bracket (under $44,625 for single filers in 2025), you could sell some appreciated long-term investments and effectively pay zero federal tax on those gains. Then maybe save your losses for a higher income year where they'd offset income taxed at higher rates. Just something to think about depending on your situation!
I've heard about this 0% LTCG thing but wasn't sure if it was real. So if my total income including my regular job and everything else is under that threshold, I can actually sell stocks I've held over a year and pay no tax on the gain? That seems too good to be true.
Yes, it's absolutely real! The 0% long-term capital gains rate applies when your total taxable income (including the capital gains) stays within that bracket. So if you're single and your regular income plus the capital gains you realize keeps you under $44,625, you pay zero federal tax on those long-term gains. The key is "total taxable income" - so you need to calculate your regular income PLUS the gains to make sure you don't push yourself into the next bracket. It's a legitimate tax planning strategy that many people don't know about. Just make sure you're looking at taxable income, not gross income, since deductions can help keep you in that sweet spot.
Naila Gordon
One strategy that worked for me was doing partial conversions right after market dips. Since you pay taxes on the value at the time of conversion, converting after values have temporarily dropped means less tax. I managed to convert about $30k of my SEP during market dips last year and saved roughly $2700 in taxes compared to if I'd converted at the peak.
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Cynthia Love
Isn't that trying to time the market though? I've always heard that's risky. What if you convert during what you think is a dip but then the market drops another 10% the next week?
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Naila Gordon
You're right that trying to time the market perfectly is impossible. I didn't wait for the absolute bottom - more like I had a plan to convert gradually, and when I noticed significant drops (10%+), I'd accelerate some of the planned conversions. It's definitely not about trying to perfectly time the bottom, just being opportunistic with planned conversions when the market gives you a temporary discount on your tax bill. I still did conversions during other times too, just accelerated during the dips.
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Nia Williams
As someone who went through a similar SEP to Roth conversion decision a few years ago, I'd strongly recommend getting a clear picture of your total tax situation before making any moves. At $75k average income with a $68k SEP balance, you have some great options. One thing that really helped me was creating a spreadsheet to model different conversion scenarios. I looked at converting different amounts ($15k, $25k, $40k) and calculated the total tax impact including federal and state taxes. This helped me see exactly where the tax bracket jumps would hit. Since you're self-employed, also consider the timing relative to your quarterly estimated tax payments. If you do a conversion, you'll likely need to increase your Q4 estimated payment or risk underpayment penalties. I learned this the hard way! The flexibility to do partial conversions over multiple years is huge. You don't have to convert everything at once. Many people spread it over 3-5 years to stay in lower tax brackets. Given your income fluctuations as a photographer, you might even time conversions for your lower-income years. Also worth noting - once money is in the Roth, it grows tax-free forever. At 36, you have decades for that growth, which makes the upfront tax hit more worthwhile than it would be for someone closer to retirement.
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