As someone who's been doing gig work for a couple years now, I want to emphasize something that might not be obvious - even though you're currently under the $400 threshold at $342.50, it's really easy to accidentally cross that line without realizing it. Summer break isn't over yet, and those earnings can add up faster than you think, especially during busy periods like weekends or bad weather when demand spikes. I'd recommend setting up a simple tracking system now, even if you think you'll stay under $400. Use a spreadsheet or even just notes on your phone to track your daily earnings, and consider downloading a mileage tracking app like Stride or MileIQ. If you do cross the $400 threshold later, you'll be glad you have those records from day one. Also, don't forget that if you work for multiple gig apps (Uber Eats, Grubhub, etc.), you have to combine ALL your self-employment income when considering the $400 threshold. I learned this the hard way when I thought I was safe staying under $400 with each individual app, but together they put me over the limit. The good news is that with proper mileage tracking, you might actually get money back instead of owing taxes, even if you do go over $400. Last year I drove about 1,200 miles for gig work and the mileage deduction more than covered my tax liability from the earnings.

This thread has been incredibly helpful! As someone who just started doing gig work myself, I wanted to add one more resource that's been a lifesaver for me - the IRS Publication 334 (Tax Guide for Small Business). It's free on the IRS website and has a whole section specifically about self-employment income and deductions. What I found most useful is that it explains exactly what records you need to keep and for how long (spoiler: keep everything for at least 3 years). It also has examples of legitimate business deductions for delivery drivers that I hadn't thought of, like car washes if you clean your car specifically to maintain a professional appearance for customers. One thing I wish someone had told me earlier - consider opening a separate checking account just for your gig work earnings and expenses. It makes tracking so much easier come tax time, and if you ever get audited, having that clear separation between personal and business finances looks really professional to the IRS. Some banks even offer free business checking accounts for low-volume businesses. Also, for anyone worried about the complexity of filing taxes with gig income - TurboTax, FreeTaxUSA, and other tax software have specific sections for gig workers that walk you through everything step by step. You don't need to be a tax expert to get it right!

I've been dealing with a similar situation for about 3 years now, and what finally saved me was setting up automatic ACH payments directly through my city's online portal. Most people don't realize that many cities now offer this option - you can schedule recurring payments that automatically deduct from your checking account. I calculate my annual liability at the beginning of the year (1.5% of expected income), divide by 12, and have that amount automatically withdrawn monthly. It's like having your own withholding system. The monthly approach works better for me than quarterly because smaller amounts are less noticeable in my budget. One tip that really helped: I set the monthly amount slightly higher than needed (maybe $5-10 extra per month) so I end up with a small refund rather than owing more. That extra cushion gives me peace of mind, especially if I get unexpected income during the year. Check your city's website under "Online Services" or "Tax Payments" - the automatic payment setup is usually buried in there but it's a game changer once you find it.

I've been lurking on this thread because I'm dealing with almost the exact same situation - living in one city with local tax requirements but working somewhere else. What really struck me from reading all these responses is how many different approaches there are to solve this problem. For anyone still reading through all these options and feeling overwhelmed (like I was), here's what I'm taking away as the key decision points: 1. Do you want to handle it yourself or use a service? The manual approaches (quarterly payments, automatic bank transfers, separate savings account) are definitely doable but require discipline. Services like taxr.ai seem helpful if you're willing to pay for automation and convenience. 2. Monthly vs quarterly payments - I hadn't considered monthly payments before reading Miguel's response, but breaking it down into 12 smaller chunks instead of 4 larger ones makes a lot of psychological sense for budgeting. 3. Where to get help when needed - The Claimyr service sounds useful for actually reaching someone at your city tax office without the endless hold times. I think I'm going to start with Sofia Morales' approach (separate savings account + monthly transfers) since it's simple and free, then explore the automatic ACH setup Miguel mentioned if my city offers it. If I run into roadblocks getting information from my city, I'll try that call service. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - this thread has been incredibly helpful for understanding all the options available!

The codes on your transcript tell the whole story! Code 971 entries from March and July show you had amended returns being processed, which probably contributed to the complexity. When you requested the trace on 10/07 (another Code 971), the IRS had to cancel your original 09/16 refund (Code 841) and remove the interest (Code 777). The September codes 290/291 show some tax adjustments happened right before your original refund too. November 4th shows your fresh refund (Code 846) with new interest (Code 776). The 7-week gap is typical - they need time to verify the original check wasn't deposited before issuing a replacement. Your account balance is clean at $0 so you should be all set once that November check arrives!

I went through something similar last year! The transcript codes can be overwhelming but they actually tell a clear story once you understand them. Your Code 971 entries show you had amended returns in March and July, which definitely complicates processing. When you requested the trace in October, the IRS had to go through their standard verification process - they can't just reissue immediately because they need Treasury to confirm the original check wasn't cashed somewhere. The 7-week gap between cancellation and reissue is actually on the faster side from what I've seen. Some people wait 3+ months! The good news is your account shows a clean $0 balance with no penalties, and the November 4th codes (846 and 776) show everything processed correctly. Make sure your address is current in their system and consider setting up informed delivery with USPS to track when it actually arrives. You should be getting that check soon!

I'm dealing with this exact same situation! My wife and I got married in 2022 but I forgot to update my employer until this year. I've been paying taxes on about $8k in domestic partner imputed income that should have stopped after our marriage. I'm curious about the timing aspect - for the year you got married (2021 in your case), did you prorate the imputed income correction only for the months after your marriage date? Or did you remove the entire year's worth? I want to make sure I handle my 2022 amendment correctly since we got married in June of that year. Also, has anyone had success getting their employer to at least provide a letter or statement confirming the imputed income amounts and dates, even if they won't issue corrected W-2s? That might help strengthen the documentation package for the IRS.

Just wanted to add another perspective on this issue - I work in HR and see this situation come up more often than you'd think. While your employer is technically not required to issue corrected W-2s for prior years (especially if they consider the reporting accurate based on their records at the time), they should definitely be willing to provide documentation supporting your amendment. One thing that might help with your employer: frame the request as needing "payroll verification" rather than asking them to admit an error. Most HR departments will provide a letter confirming what was included in your taxable wages and when, especially if you explain it's needed for tax compliance purposes. Also, don't forget to check if your employer has a flexible spending account or dependent care assistance program that might have been affected by this marital status change. Sometimes there are additional tax benefits you might have missed out on that could be recovered through the amendment process. The good news is the IRS sees domestic partner/spouse benefit corrections regularly, so your situation isn't unusual to them. Just make sure you have solid documentation of your marriage date and the imputed income timeline.

As someone who's dealt with multiple IRS issues over the years, I can confirm that the mysterious "hold time" is often just agents struggling with their ancient computer systems. But here's something that's helped me get better results: Before calling, I always pull my own account transcript from the IRS website and write down ALL the transaction codes, dates, and dollar amounts I can see. When the agent puts me on hold to "research," I'm ready with specific codes to reference. For example, instead of saying "I'm missing my refund," I'll say "I see transaction code 846 for my refund date of X, but there's also a 570 freeze code from Y date - can you tell me what's causing this freeze?" This usually gets me past the generic responses because they realize I can see the same basic info they're looking at. The key is speaking their language with specific codes and dates rather than general complaints. It doesn't solve the underlying problem of their terrible systems, but it definitely gets you taken more seriously by the agents.

Having gone through this exact frustration myself, I can add a few insights from my recent experiences. The "mysterious hold time" often involves agents checking multiple disconnected systems that don't talk to each other well. But here's what I've learned works better: **Before calling, prepare like you're going to court:** - Pull your account transcript and wage & income transcript - Have your Social Security card, photo ID, and all relevant tax documents ready - Write down specific questions with transaction codes (not just "where's my refund") **During the call:** - Ask for the agent's SEID number (employee ID) - this shows you're serious about accountability - If they can't help, specifically request transfer to the "Technical Support" line rather than just asking for a supervisor - Always ask "What will show up in my account notes from this call?" and request they read it back **The game-changer:** If you have a complex issue, ask to speak with an "Accounts Management" representative directly rather than starting with customer service. They have broader system access and can often resolve things the front-line agents simply cannot touch. I've found that being prepared with specific codes and showing I understand the process gets me transferred to more knowledgeable agents much faster than starting with general complaints.