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Has anyone had issues with property taxes being reported incorrectly on these 1098 forms after a loan transfer? My new servicer didn't report any of the property taxes paid through escrow, but the old one did. Trying to figure out if I need to get a corrected form.
Yes! This happened to me last year. The new servicer didn't report property taxes because they claimed they didn't make the actual property tax payment - the old servicer did it just before the transfer. Check your escrow statements from both servicers. You can deduct the property taxes you paid regardless of whether they're reported correctly on the 1098 forms, but you'll need documentation.
Thanks for the confirmation - I'll pull my escrow statements and see what they show. My closing was in October so most of the property taxes should have been paid by the previous owner, but there was a small prorated amount I paid. Guessing that's what's causing the confusion between servicers.
This is exactly the situation I found myself in last year! The stress of trying to figure out which numbers to use was keeping me up at night. What really helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet where I listed every mortgage payment I made throughout the year with the dates and amounts, then compared that to what each 1098 form was reporting. I discovered that my original lender was including some fees in their interest calculation that weren't actually deductible interest, while my new servicer had the cleaner numbers. The key is to focus on what you actually paid in mortgage interest, not necessarily what the forms say if there are discrepancies. Also, don't stress too much about triggering an audit - mortgage interest reporting issues are super common and the IRS sees this all the time. As long as you're being honest about what you actually paid and can document it, you'll be fine. Keep copies of all your payment records and mortgage statements just in case you need them later!
This spreadsheet approach is brilliant! I'm definitely going to try this. Just to clarify - when you say your original lender was including fees that weren't deductible interest, what kind of fees were those? I want to make sure I'm not accidentally claiming something I shouldn't on my return. Also, how did you figure out which fees were legitimate interest versus other charges?
Just a heads-up based on personal experience: be VERY careful with your record keeping if you're doing Roth corrections or backdoor contributions. I messed up my basis tracking over multiple years and got hit with a CP2000 notice claiming I owed taxes on conversions that should have been tax-free. It took me months to untangle everything because I didn't have proper documentation for which contributions had been withdrawn as excess vs. which ones were converted properly. Make sure you keep ALL your 5498 and 1099-R forms indefinitely!
Thank you for that warning. I'll definitely keep better records going forward. Should I be requesting any specific forms from my IRA provider to help document the excess contribution removal? And how many years of these documents should I be keeping?
You should specifically request a statement or letter confirming the excess contribution removal and make sure they code the 1099-R properly. The code should indicate it was a "return of excess contributions" - usually code P or JP in box 7 of the 1099-R. As for how long to keep the documents, I personally now keep ALL retirement account documentation indefinitely. The technical requirement is 3 years from filing, but since IRA contributions and conversions can affect your basis for decades, it's safer to keep everything. I learned this the hard way when the IRS questioned transactions from 5 years prior. Just create a digital folder system and save everything - Form 5498 (showing contributions), 1099-R (showing distributions), account statements showing the removal of excess, and any correspondence with your provider about corrections.
Based on your description, it sounds like you handled the excess contribution removal correctly by withdrawing before the filing deadline, which should have avoided the 6% penalty. However, there are a couple of areas that need attention: Your basis calculation is indeed incorrect. Since you withdrew the entire 2023 contribution of $1,500, that amount should NOT be included in your ongoing basis. Your basis should only reflect contributions that remain in the account - so for 2024, it should just be $7,000 (assuming you're eligible for the 2024 contribution). You should have received a 1099-R for the 2024 withdrawal showing the $1,530 distribution. The $1,500 principal portion isn't taxable since it was a return of excess contributions, but the $30 in earnings should be reported as taxable income on your 2024 return. If you're under 59Β½, those earnings are also subject to the 10% early withdrawal penalty. Make sure your IRA provider coded the 1099-R correctly - it should show code P or JP in box 7 to indicate "return of excess contributions." This helps the IRS understand the nature of the distribution. For 2024, double-check that your income still qualifies you for the $7,000 Roth contribution. If you're over the limit again, you'll want to address this before the filing deadline to avoid repeating the same issue. You likely don't need to amend your 2023 return if you properly reported the excess on Form 5329, but you should verify that your 2024 return correctly reports the earnings portion of the withdrawal as taxable income.
This is really helpful - I think I've been making this more complicated than it needs to be. Just to clarify one more thing: when you say the $30 in earnings is subject to the 10% early withdrawal penalty, does that apply even though the withdrawal was to correct an excess contribution? I thought there might be an exception since it wasn't a voluntary distribution but rather a required correction. Also, should I expect to receive an amended 1099-R if my provider initially coded it incorrectly?
I'd recommend filing a report with your state's Department of Labor too. If they're reporting wages they didn't pay you, that's a serious issue. The DOL might light a fire under the company to fix this faster than you can on your own.
This is definitely a frustrating situation, but you have several good options to resolve it. Based on what you've described, it sounds like a clear payroll error since you have documentation that you stopped working in November. Here's what I'd recommend doing immediately: 1. **Document everything** - Keep all your communication attempts with the company, your final paystub from November, and any employment termination paperwork you have. 2. **Don't wait indefinitely** - You can file your taxes on time using Form 4852 (Substitute for Form W-2) if the company won't respond. Since you know you didn't work during that period, you can accurately report zero income for those dates. 3. **Try the certified letter approach** mentioned earlier, but also consider escalating to their corporate office if it's a larger company. 4. **Contact the IRS directly** - Call their business and specialty tax line at 800-829-4933 to report the incorrect W-2. They can guide you through the process and may contact the employer on your behalf. The key thing is not to let this delay your tax filing. You have legitimate recourse options, and the IRS deals with these situations regularly. If you end up needing to file an amended return later, that's totally manageable - it's better than missing the deadline while waiting for an unresponsive employer.
This is really helpful advice! I'm dealing with something similar where my former employer is just completely ignoring me. Quick question - when you call that IRS business line, do you need to have specific information ready? Like should I have my W2 and paystubs in front of me when I call, or do they just need basic details about the situation? Also, has anyone actually used Form 4852 before? I'm worried about doing it wrong and getting in trouble with the IRS later if it turns out I made a mistake on the form.
Has anyone had success using the free file fillable forms on the IRS website for reporting PayPal income? I'm trying to avoid paying for tax software but I'm worried I'll miss something important.
I used them last year for my Etsy and PayPal income. It's doable but you need to know exactly which forms you need. For basic self-employment income, you'll need: - Form 1040 (main tax return) - Schedule C (business profit/loss) - Schedule SE (self-employment tax) The forms have decent instructions, but they won't guide you like paid software does. Just take your time and double-check everything.
I went through this exact same situation last year! You definitely need to report that $850 even without a 1099. Here's what I learned: First, download your complete PayPal transaction history for the year - you can get this from your account settings. This will be your documentation in case the IRS ever asks for proof. You'll report this on Schedule C as self-employment income. Put your total sales on Line 1 (gross receipts), then deduct any legitimate business expenses like materials, shipping supplies, PayPal fees, etc. The net profit flows to your 1040 and you'll also need Schedule SE for self-employment tax if your net earnings are over $400. Keep detailed records of everything - the IRS requires you to report all income regardless of whether you get tax forms. PayPal's 1099-K thresholds have changed over the years, but that doesn't affect your obligation to report what you earned. One tip: separate your business transactions from personal ones going forward. It makes tracking so much easier for next year's taxes!
This is super helpful, thank you! Quick question about the Schedule SE - if my net profit ends up being less than $400 after deducting expenses, do I still need to file that form? I'm hoping my material costs might bring me below that threshold. Also, when you say "separate business transactions from personal ones" - do you mean I should have a separate PayPal account just for business? Or is there another way to keep things organized within the same account?
Amara Eze
Does anyone know if this credit phases out completely at certain income levels? My wife and I both contribute to Roth IRAs but our combined income is around $70k.
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StarStrider
β’Yes, the Saver's Credit does phase out completely at certain income levels. For 2024, if you're married filing jointly, the credit phases out completely if your AGI is above $73,000. With your combined income of around $70k, you should still qualify for the 10% credit rate. For married filing jointly in 2024, the brackets are: - 50% credit if AGI is $43,500 or less - 20% credit if AGI is $43,501-$47,500 - 10% credit if AGI is $47,501-$73,000 - No credit if AGI is above $73,000 So at $70k income, you'd get a 10% credit on up to $4,000 in combined retirement contributions, meaning a maximum credit of $400. Definitely worth claiming!
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Isaiah Cross
Just want to add that you should also make sure you have your Form 5498 from Vanguard when you file. This form shows your IRA contributions for the year and the IRS uses it to verify your eligibility for the Saver's Credit. Vanguard usually mails these out by May 31st for the previous tax year, but you don't need to wait for it to file your return since you know how much you contributed. Also, keep in mind that only the contributions you made during the 2024 tax year count toward the 2024 credit. So if you contributed $5,700 in 2024, that's what you'd use for Form 8880. The $3,100 you contributed back in 2022 would have been eligible for the 2022 credit if your income qualified that year. It's really great that FreeTaxUSA caught this for you - a lot of people miss out on this credit simply because they don't know it exists!
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Zainab Omar
β’This is really helpful information! I'm new to this community and just learning about all these tax credits I never knew existed. Quick question - do I need to wait for the Form 5498 to arrive before I can file, or is it okay to file based on my own records of contributions? I keep pretty good track of my deposits to my Roth IRA but I'm worried about getting the numbers wrong and having issues with the IRS later. Also, does anyone know if there are other retirement-related credits or deductions that commonly get missed? I'm starting to realize I might have been leaving money on the table for years!
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