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I just went through this exact same penalty abatement process for a Section 6657 dishonored payment penalty and wanted to share what worked for me! Like you, I had sufficient funds in my account when the IRS tried to process my payment, but something went wrong on their end. Here's the approach that got my penalty completely removed: **My successful strategy:** 1. **Paid the penalty immediately** to stop interest from accumulating (they'll refund it if approved) 2. **Used Form 843** as the official abatement request mechanism - this is critical 3. **Wrote a concise but detailed letter** explaining the situation, referencing my SSN, tax year, and CP14 notice number 4. **Included highlighted bank statements** showing my account balance exceeded the payment amount on the processing date 5. **Sent everything certified mail** to the address on my CP14 notice The key was being factual and specific about dates while keeping the letter professional and to the point. I emphasized that I had sufficient funds, filed on time, and paid immediately upon discovering the issue - basically proving it wasn't due to my negligence. It took about 6 weeks to get approval, but they removed the penalty entirely and refunded what I had paid. Don't lose hope - these situations are more common than you'd think with electronic payments, and the IRS is generally reasonable when you can document that you had the funds available.

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Adriana Cohn

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This is exactly the kind of detailed roadmap I was hoping to find! Thank you for breaking down the successful strategy so clearly. I'm particularly glad to hear that paying the penalty upfront to stop interest accumulation worked out well for you - I was torn about whether to do that or wait. One quick follow-up question: when you highlighted the bank statements, did you use a physical highlighter on printed copies, or did you annotate them digitally? I want to make sure my documentation is as clear and professional as possible when I submit everything. Also really appreciate the reminder about certified mail - that's definitely something I wouldn't have thought of but makes total sense for something this important.

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Zara Malik

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I went through this exact situation last year and successfully got my Section 6657 penalty removed! The process can be frustrating, but it's definitely doable when you have the right documentation. Here's what I learned from my experience: The IRS is actually pretty reasonable about these penalties when you can clearly demonstrate that the payment failure wasn't due to insufficient funds or negligence on your part. Since you filed on time, had adequate funds, and paid immediately once you discovered the issue, you have a strong case. For the letter itself, keep it professional but straightforward. Start with your identifying information (name, SSN, tax year, CP14 notice number), clearly state that you're requesting abatement of the Section 6657 penalty, and explain that you had sufficient funds when the payment was supposed to process. Include the date your payment was supposed to go through and the date you successfully made the payment once you discovered the issue. The bank statements are crucial - make sure they clearly show your account balance on the date the IRS attempted to process your payment. I'd also recommend including Form 843 (Claim for Refund and Request for Abatement) as the formal mechanism for your request. Regarding payment timing, I'd suggest paying the penalty now to stop interest from accruing. The IRS will refund it with interest if they approve your abatement request. Send everything via certified mail to the address on your CP14 notice. In my case, it took about 7 weeks to get a response, but they completely removed the penalty. Stay patient and persistent - you've got this!

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Zara Shah

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This is such helpful advice! I'm in a very similar situation right now - my payment failed even though I had plenty of funds, and I'm feeling overwhelmed by the whole process. Your step-by-step breakdown really helps clarify what I need to do. I'm particularly nervous about the letter writing part since I've never had to dispute anything with the IRS before. When you mention keeping it "professional but straightforward," do you have any suggestions for specific language or tone to use? I want to make sure I come across as credible without sounding too formal or legalistic. Also, quick question about the timeline - you mentioned it took 7 weeks to get a response. Did you receive any kind of acknowledgment that they received your submission, or did you just have to wait until you heard back with their decision? Thanks so much for sharing your experience - it's really reassuring to know this penalty can actually be removed with the right approach!

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The good news is that Energy Transfer LP typically makes their K-1s available online through their investor portal around mid-March each year, so you should be able to access your missing forms going back several years. You'll want to log into ET's investor relations website and look for tax documents. One important thing to understand about MLP K-1s is that they often show losses in the early years due to depreciation and depletion deductions, even when you're receiving cash distributions. This means you might actually owe less tax than you think, or even get refunds when you file amended returns. The key is to act quickly though. While the IRS has up to 3 years to assess additional taxes for most situations, if you substantially underreport income (by 25% or more), they have 6 years. And there's no statute of limitations if you don't file at all. Given that MLPs send copies of all K-1s directly to the IRS, this is definitely on their radar. I'd recommend getting all your K-1s first, then either using tax software that handles MLPs properly or consulting with a CPA who has experience with partnership taxation. The complexity goes beyond just reporting income - there are basis adjustments, potential state filing requirements, and other nuances that can trip you up if you're not careful.

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Nia Davis

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This is really solid advice! I'm actually dealing with a very similar situation with ET and a couple other MLPs I've owned for years without properly reporting the K-1s. The point about potentially getting refunds due to the depreciation losses is interesting - I hadn't considered that the K-1s might actually work in my favor in some years. Quick question though - when you mention using tax software that "handles MLPs properly," are there specific features I should be looking for? I've been using basic TurboTax for years but I'm guessing the standard version doesn't have the MLP functionality built in. Should I be looking at the premium versions or switching to something else entirely? Also, do you happen to know if Energy Transfer's online portal requires any special account setup, or can I access it with just my SSN and basic account info? I'm hoping I don't need to jump through too many hoops to get those historical K-1s.

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Ava Martinez

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@fce3a9798c5c Great breakdown of the MLP tax complexities! Just to add to your point about the 6-year statute of limitations for substantial underreporting - this is particularly relevant for MLP investors because the income allocation can sometimes be quite different from the cash distributions received. I learned the hard way that even "small" MLP positions can trigger that 25% underreporting threshold if you're only reporting the cash distributions and ignoring the K-1 completely. The IRS calculates this based on your total tax liability, not just the missing MLP income itself. For anyone reading this thread, I'd also recommend checking if your MLP has been doing any major acquisitions or divestitures over the years you owned it. These corporate actions can create additional tax complexities that show up on the K-1s and might affect your basis calculations going forward. Energy Transfer has been pretty active with transactions over the past few years. One more thing - if you're planning to sell your MLP shares eventually, getting the K-1 reporting squared away now is crucial because your cost basis gets adjusted each year based on the K-1 allocations. If you haven't been tracking these adjustments properly, you could end up overpaying taxes on the sale or triggering additional scrutiny from the IRS.

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Amara Okafor

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I'm in a very similar situation with my Energy Transfer LP shares - owned them for about 4 years and just discovered I should have been reporting K-1s this whole time. Reading through everyone's experiences here has been both terrifying and helpful! What really caught my attention was the mention of automated IRS systems flagging discrepancies regardless of dollar amount. I always assumed my small position wouldn't matter, but it sounds like that's not how it works. The fact that ET sends copies of all K-1s directly to the IRS means they definitely know what I should have been reporting. I'm planning to log into ET's investor portal this weekend to pull all my historical K-1s. From what I'm reading here, it sounds like I need to prepare for filing amended returns for the past few years. The complexity around basis adjustments and potential state filing requirements is honestly overwhelming, but I'd rather deal with it now than wait for the IRS to come knocking. Has anyone found a good resource or guide that walks through the amendment process specifically for unreported MLP K-1s? I'm trying to figure out if this is something I can handle myself or if I need to bite the bullet and pay for professional help.

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Has anyone used the homeowner casualty loss section in TurboTax? Is it straightforward or should I just go to a professional this year? I've always done my own taxes but never had to deal with storm damage before.

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Thanks, that's really helpful! I've got most of that info already organized. Did TurboTax automatically check if your area had a federal disaster declaration or did you need to know that beforehand?

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TurboTax didn't automatically check for me - I had to look that up myself on the FEMA website first. Once I entered the disaster declaration number, it handled the rest of the calculations. I'd recommend checking fema.gov/disasters/disaster-declarations before you start so you know whether you qualify. If your area wasn't federally declared, TurboTax will still let you enter the info but it won't generate any deduction, which can be confusing if you don't know that going in.

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Donna Cline

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I went through something similar after Hurricane damage last year. One thing I learned that might help - keep detailed records of everything, not just the repair costs. Document the date of the storm, take photos of the damage before repairs, and save all correspondence with your insurance company. Even if your area wasn't federally declared, some repairs might still qualify for deductions in specific situations. For example, if you have a home office and the storm damaged that part of your house, a portion of those repair costs could potentially be deductible as a business expense. The key is proving the business use of that space. Also, don't forget about potential state tax benefits. While federal casualty loss deductions are limited, some states have their own rules that might be more generous. Worth checking with your state's tax authority or a local tax professional who knows your state's specific regulations. The $4,800 you spent is significant enough that it's worth exploring all options, especially since you've already done the hard work of getting everything repaired and documented!

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Leo Simmons

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This is really comprehensive advice, thank you! I'm especially interested in what you mentioned about the home office deduction. I do work from home part-time and have a dedicated office space that I've been taking the home office deduction for. The storm damage affected our roof and some of the water damage was in that area of the house. How do you calculate what portion of the repair costs would be deductible? Is it based on the square footage of the office compared to the whole house, or is there a different method? I want to make sure I do this correctly if it turns out to be an option.

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Emma Swift

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Thanks everyone for the detailed responses! This is super helpful. I'm feeling much more confident about handling this now. One quick follow-up question - since I only started with Amazon Vine in September last year, would it make sense to start making quarterly estimated payments now for this year's taxes, or should I wait until I have a better sense of how much I'll receive in products this year? Also, for those who mentioned deducting business expenses - I assume I need to keep receipts for everything, right? Like if I buy a new camera specifically for taking better product photos for my reviews, that would be deductible?

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Great questions! For estimated payments, I'd suggest starting them now even with limited data. You can always adjust the amounts as you get a better sense of your Vine income throughout the year. It's better to pay a little extra and get a refund than to get hit with underpayment penalties later. And yes, absolutely keep receipts for everything business-related! A camera purchased specifically for product photography would definitely be deductible. I'd recommend setting up a simple system now - maybe a dedicated folder or envelope for business receipts, or even just taking photos of receipts with your phone and storing them in a "Vine Business" folder. The IRS loves documentation, so the more organized you are, the better off you'll be if they ever have questions. Also consider tracking your time spent on reviews - while you can't deduct your time, it helps establish that this is a legitimate business activity rather than just a hobby.

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Daniel White

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Just wanted to add another perspective on this - I've been dealing with Amazon Vine taxes for three years now and one thing that really helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet to track everything throughout the year. I log each product I receive with its fair market value (from the email Amazon sends), the date received, and what category it falls into. This makes tax time SO much easier because you're not scrambling to figure out what that $3,200 on your 1099-NEC actually represents. Plus, it helps you estimate your quarterly payments more accurately as the year goes on. One tip that saved me money: if you return any Vine products to Amazon (which you're allowed to do), make sure to track those too. The returned items shouldn't be included in your taxable income, but Amazon sometimes includes them in your 1099-NEC anyway. Having documentation of returns can help you adjust your reported income correctly. Also, don't forget that if you donate any Vine products to charity, you can potentially deduct their fair market value as a charitable contribution (separate from your business deductions). Just make sure to get proper documentation from the charity!

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Dana Doyle

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This spreadsheet idea is brilliant! I wish I had started tracking everything from day one instead of trying to piece together my records at tax time. Quick question about the returns - do you just subtract the value of returned items from your total 1099-NEC amount when filing, or is there a specific way to report the adjustment? I returned a couple of items last year but honestly forgot all about the tax implications until reading your comment.

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This is such a helpful thread! I've been making this exact mistake for the past two quarters. I run a small landscaping business and our pay periods often cross month boundaries, so I was reporting everything based on when the work was done rather than when paychecks were issued. After reading through all these responses, I realize I need to go back and file amended 941 forms for Q1 and Q2 this year. I had several March pay periods that got paid in April, and I incorrectly included those wages on my Q1 filing instead of Q2. One question though - when I file the amended returns, do I need to also adjust my federal tax deposits? I've been making deposits based on the incorrect quarterly allocations, so I'm wondering if that creates additional complications with the IRS.

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Yes, you'll likely need to adjust your federal tax deposits when you file amended 941 forms. The IRS expects deposits to be made based on when wages are actually paid, not when the work was performed. Since you were making deposits based on the incorrect quarterly allocations, you might have under-deposited for Q2 and over-deposited for Q1. When you file the amended returns, the IRS will recalculate your deposit schedule and may assess penalties if the timing was significantly off. I'd recommend calling the IRS directly (or using one of those services like Claimyr that others mentioned) to discuss your specific situation before filing the amendments. They can often waive penalties if you proactively correct the error and explain it was due to misunderstanding the reporting rules rather than intentional non-compliance.

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I went through this exact same confusion when I first started handling payroll for our company. The key thing that helped me remember the rule is this: the IRS wants to match your 941 quarterly reports with your actual federal tax deposits, and deposits are based on when you pay employees, not when they earn the wages. So if you have a March pay period but the actual payday is in April, that's when you'd make your federal tax deposit (within the required timeframe after the April pay date), and that's also when it should appear on your 941. This also makes year-end reconciliation much easier because your quarterly 941 totals will match up properly with your W-2 forms, which are also based on payment dates rather than work periods. One tip: keep good records of your pay periods vs. pay dates, especially around quarter boundaries. It'll save you headaches if you ever need to explain the timing to the IRS or your accountant during tax season.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm new to handling payroll and have been overthinking this whole process. Your point about matching 941 reports with federal tax deposits makes so much sense - I was getting confused trying to track work periods separately from payment dates. Quick question though - when you mention keeping records of pay periods vs pay dates around quarter boundaries, what's the best way to organize that? Should I be creating some kind of spreadsheet or is there a simpler system you'd recommend for a small business? I want to make sure I don't run into the same issues that @QuantumQuasar mentioned about needing to file amended returns.

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