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Does anyone know if this base wages limit also applies to self-employment tax? I do freelance work and also have a regular job, so I'm wondering if I should be calculating this differently on my Schedule SE.
Yes, it absolutely applies to self-employment tax too! The $142,800 limit (for 2021) is the combined total of your W-2 wages AND self-employment income. Self-employment tax is 15.3% (12.4% for Social Security and 2.9% for Medicare). Once your combined income hits that threshold, you stop paying the Social Security portion (12.4%) on additional self-employment income, but continue paying the Medicare portion (2.9%). When you fill out Schedule SE, there's actually a line where you enter your W-2 wages specifically to make this calculation. The form will reduce your SE tax accordingly if you're over the limit.
This is such valuable information! I had no idea about the Social Security wage base limit until recently either. One thing that might help others understand this better: the limit exists because Social Security benefits themselves are capped. Since there's a maximum monthly benefit you can receive in retirement (around $3,345/month in 2022 for someone retiring at full retirement age), it makes sense that contributions are also capped. What's interesting is that this creates a somewhat regressive tax structure where Social Security tax takes a smaller percentage of total income as you earn more. Someone making $50,000 pays 6.2% SS tax on their entire income, but someone making $300,000 effectively pays only about 3% of their total income in SS tax. For anyone tracking this year over year, these limits do tend to increase pretty substantially each year with inflation adjustments, so it's worth checking annually if you're in that income range!
Just a heads up - if your insurance reimbursed you for any of the damage, you need to subtract that from your casualty loss calculation. The IRS only allows you to deduct losses that weren't covered by insurance. Same goes for any FEMA assistance you received for repairs.
Does this apply even if the insurance payout was less than the total damage? My insurance covered $7,500 of about $20,000 in flood damage.
Yes, you would only include the portion that wasn't reimbursed. In your case, you could potentially claim the remaining $12,500 that insurance didn't cover ($20,000 damage minus $7,500 insurance payout), subject to the $100 per event reduction and the 10% of AGI limitation. Remember to keep all documentation showing both the total damage amount and the insurance payout.
I went through something very similar after Hurricane damage last year. For documentation, I found that taking detailed photos before any cleanup was crucial - I wish I had taken more! The IRS accepts multiple types of evidence for fair market value: 1) Contractor estimates (like others mentioned) - get at least 2-3 if possible 2) Insurance adjuster reports - even if they denied coverage, their damage assessment is valuable 3) Real estate appraisals if you have recent ones 4) Receipts for original purchases when available 5) Online research for replacement costs (save screenshots with dates) For your specific situation with back-to-back storms, make sure to clearly separate the damage from each event since they're different FEMA declarations. I had to create a detailed timeline showing what was damaged in storm #1 vs. what additional damage occurred in storm #2. One thing that caught me off guard - if you're planning to rebuild/repair, keep ALL receipts. Sometimes the actual repair costs can help support your "difference in value" calculations, especially if contractors find additional damage during the work that wasn't initially visible. The key is having a paper trail for everything. The IRS wants to see that you made reasonable efforts to establish fair values, not necessarily that you hired expensive appraisers.
quick question - wouldn't this situation be simpler if the parents just reported the entire sale on their return since they got most of the money? seems like unnecessary complication for the kid to report anything if they just got a small gift from the proceeds.
No, that's actually incorrect and could cause problems. When multiple people are listed on a 1099-S, the IRS expects each person to report their portion of the sale. If the student was legally on the title/deed, they must report their ownership percentage regardless of how the proceeds were distributed. The $6,800 received isn't a "gift" - it's sale proceeds from an asset they partially owned. Not reporting it would be a mismatch with the 1099-S the IRS received. The parents can't report the student's portion on their return.
@Haley Bennett - I went through something very similar when my mom added me to her house deed before selling. Since your parents gifted you the ownership interest, you definitely need to report your portion even though you only received $6,800. Here's what worked for me: First, figure out your exact ownership percentage from the deed (sounds like it might be equal thirds if all three names are listed). Then on Form 8949, report only your percentage of the $240k proceeds. For basis, since it was a gift from your parents, you'll use your share of their original purchase price plus any improvements they made before gifting your interest. In FreeTaxUSA, when you get to the 1099-S section, there should be an option to edit or override the amounts. Enter your calculated portion and add a description like "Reporting 33.33% ownership interest per deed" in the description field. The key is making sure your reported numbers match your actual ownership percentage, not the cash you received. Don't stress too much - this is actually a common situation and the IRS sees it all the time with family property sales!
Hey OP, just curious - how long have you been trying to get this sorted? I'm in a similar boat and wondering how long I'm gonna be treading water šāāļø
Just started tbh. But from what everyone's saying, looks like I'm in for a long haul š©
Based on my experience, here's what I'd recommend for getting that Letter of Indemnity: 1. **Call early in the morning** (like 7-8 AM) - wait times are usually shorter 2. **Have your EIN/SSN ready** plus the exact bank routing/account info 3. **Be super specific** about what the letter needs to say - the IRS reps aren't mind readers 4. **Get a case number** for your request so you can reference it in follow-ups Also, some banks have specific forms they want the IRS to use, so check with your bank first about their requirements. Saved me a lot of back-and-forth when I had to do this for a business account issue. The whole process took about 2-3 weeks for me, but that was with one revision needed. Good luck! š¤
This is super helpful! @StarSurfer Do you remember what specific info your bank needed included in the letter? I'm worried about getting it wrong and having to start over š¬
William Schwarz
Everyone's talking about employer errors, but there's also a possibility that you actually do qualify for exemption and that's why nothing was withheld. If you had zero tax liability last year AND expect zero tax liability this year, you're allowed to claim exempt on your W-4. Did you get a refund of ALL federal taxes withheld when you filed your 2023 return? If so, the system might have correctly identified you as exempt. The problem comes when your situation changes (you earn more, have less deductions, etc.) and you forget to update your W-4.
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Lauren Johnson
ā¢This is incorrect information. Being exempt one year doesn't automatically carry over to the next year. You have to recertify your exempt status each year by February 15th by submitting a new W-4 claiming exemption. Otherwise, your employer is supposed to start withholding based on default single/zero allowances.
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Javier Morales
This exact thing happened to me last year! I discovered that my employer's HR system had a glitch where if you submitted your W-4 electronically during a specific window, it defaulted certain fields incorrectly. The system showed I had claimed "exempt" even though I never selected that option. Here's what I learned from dealing with this: First, request a copy of your W-4 from HR immediately - not just what you remember filling out, but what's actually in their system. Sometimes there are discrepancies. Second, if you can't pay the full $4,700 right away, set up an IRS payment plan online at irs.gov - they're pretty reasonable about it and the fees are minimal. Most importantly, submit a new W-4 RIGHT NOW with clear withholding instructions for 2025. I used the IRS withholding calculator on their website to figure out exactly how much extra to withhold per paycheck to avoid this happening again. It's been working perfectly this year. The stress is real, but you can definitely get through this! The IRS payment plans make it manageable, and once you fix your W-4, you won't have this surprise again.
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