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Just my two cents, but the income limits for IRA deductions are super confusing. I'm below the threshold so I can deduct everything, but my friend is in your boat. He ended up doing the backdoor Roth IRA conversion. One thing to watch out for is the "pro-rata rule" if you already have money in traditional IRAs (like your rollover IRA). It might mess with your tax treatment of the backdoor Roth. Some people roll their traditional IRA funds into their 401k first to avoid this issue, assuming your 401k allows it.
Can you explain more about this pro-rata rule? I have about $120k in a rollover IRA from an old job and was thinking about doing backdoor Roth. Will that cause problems?
The pro-rata rule basically means the IRS looks at all your traditional IRA balances combined when you do a Roth conversion. If you have $120k in a rollover IRA and put in $7k non-deductible, then try to convert just that $7k to Roth, the IRS will say that only about 5.5% of your conversion ($7k out of $127k total) can be tax-free. You'd have to pay taxes on the other 94.5% of whatever you convert. Many people avoid this by rolling their existing traditional IRA funds into their current employer's 401k first (if the plan allows it). That way they'd have $0 in traditional IRAs before making the new non-deductible contribution, and the backdoor conversion would be 100% tax-free.
Anyone else notice the IRS rules for retirement accounts seem designed to be confusing? Some random thoughts that might help: 1) if u have a 401k at work, the ira deduction phases out at high incomes 2) if ur over the limits, backdoor roth is usually better than non-deductible trad ira 3) dont forget u can do both 401k AND ira in same year, just might not get trad ira deduction 4) also check if ur 401k has after-tax contributions with in-plan roth conversions... thats the "mega backdoor roth" and is awesome if available!!
Thanks for the tips! I'm going to check if my 401(k) plan allows after-tax contributions with in-plan conversions. That mega backdoor Roth option sounds interesting. And yeah, it does feel like these rules are intentionally complicated sometimes!
Just wanted to add something important about the refund time limit that hasn't been mentioned yet. You only have 3 years from the original due date to claim a refund. So for 2021 taxes, you have until April 2025 to file and still get your refund. For 2020, the deadline is April 2024 (which has passed), BUT remember 2020 had special COVID extensions, so that deadline was actually May 17, 2024. If you missed that, unfortunately that refund is gone. 2022 and 2023 are still well within the window. Don't delay any further though - those refunds are YOUR money that was withheld from your paychecks!
Oh no, I might have missed the deadline for 2020 then! Does the IRS ever make exceptions for people who didn't know about the 3-year rule? And just to clarify, even if I can't get a refund for the older years, I should still file those returns anyway, right?
Unfortunately, the IRS is very strict about the 3-year refund statute and doesn't make exceptions even if you didn't know about the rule. It's set by law, not IRS policy, so they can't bend it. Yes, you should still file all unfiled returns even if you can't get the refund anymore. This closes your file with the IRS and prevents future issues. While you won't get money back for those older years, filing completes your tax record and can help with things like loan applications, government benefits, or any situation where tax return information is needed. Better to have everything clean and complete than leave those old years hanging.
Has anyone used the Free File Fillable Forms on the IRS website for past year returns? I'm in a similar situation (didn't file 2022 or 2023) but I'm trying to avoid paying for software if possible.
Free File Fillable Forms only work for the current tax year (so right now, only 2024). For prior years, you need to download the specific forms for those tax years from the IRS website and mail them in. I did this last year for my 2021 and 2022 returns. You can still use free tax software though! Most of the major companies (TurboTax, H&R Block, TaxSlayer) offer access to prior year returns on their websites. The catch is that you can prepare them for free, but they usually charge to file them. Since you have to mail prior year returns anyway, you can just print them out and mail them yourself without paying.
One thing nobody mentioned yet is that if you're going to buy a truck for your LLC, you should consider whether to have the LLC purchase it directly or if you should buy it personally and lease it to the LLC. Both approaches have different tax implications. If the LLC buys it, the LLC gets the depreciation deduction, but you'll need adequate business income to offset it. If you buy it personally and lease it to your LLC, you personally get the depreciation and the LLC gets a lease expense deduction. This can sometimes be more advantageous depending on your overall tax situation.
That's an interesting approach I hadn't considered. Do you have any experience with how the lease arrangement would work? Like would I need to create some kind of formal lease agreement between myself and my LLC? And are there any specific rates I should charge to keep everything legitimate?
Yes, you'd need a formal written lease agreement between yourself and the LLC with reasonable market rates. The rate should be comparable to what you'd pay to lease a similar vehicle commercially. Keep documentation of how you determined that rate. You'd report the lease income on Schedule E of your personal return, and you'd still get to take depreciation deductions personally. The LLC would deduct the lease payments as a business expense. This can sometimes work better if your LLC doesn't have enough income to fully utilize the depreciation deductions in the early years.
Have any of you hunting guides used QuickBooks Self-Employed for tracking truck expenses? I'm looking for something simple that can automatically track my mileage when I'm driving to different hunting locations.
I use it for my fishing charter business and it works pretty well. The app uses GPS to track your trips automatically, then you just swipe to categorize them as business or personal. It calculates your potential deduction based on the standard mileage rate. Just remember it doesn't handle the actual expense method if you decide to go that route instead of taking the standard mileage rate. But for basic mileage tracking it's been super reliable for me.
Another option: did u do the work yourself or hire contractors? If you hired contractors and have receipts, maybe u can claim some home improvement credit? Check if any expenses were for energy efficiency or security improvements. Some states have specific credits too!
Dealt with this exact situation last year! Here's what I learned: the expenses don't disappear, they just get handled differently. I tracked everything carefully and included it all when filing this year (2023 for me). The key is proper classification - some expenses become part of your basis (like improvements), others might qualify as immediate expenses once actively renting. Don't give up on the deductions!
NeonNomad
Just to add some clarification about TINs that helped me understand the system better: 1. SSN (Social Security Number): For US citizens and residents authorized to work 2. ITIN (Individual Taxpayer Identification Number): For non-residents who need to file taxes but aren't eligible for an SSN 3. EIN (Employer Identification Number): For businesses, even sole proprietors can get these Most people just use their SSN, but knowing the difference helped me understand why they don't just ask for "SSN" on all forms - some people have these alternative numbers!
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Andre Lefebvre
ā¢This is super helpful! One more question - if I decide to form an LLC for my freelance work in the future, would I need to stop using my SSN as my TIN and get an EIN instead? Or can I still use my SSN even with an LLC?
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NeonNomad
ā¢If you form an LLC, you have options. For a single-member LLC, you can continue using your SSN if you want the LLC to be treated as a "disregarded entity" for tax purposes (meaning the IRS treats it as an extension of yourself). However, most people with LLCs choose to get an EIN even if not strictly required. There are several advantages: it adds a layer of privacy (you're not sharing your SSN with clients), it's necessary if you want to hire employees, and it's required if you want your LLC taxed as a corporation. Getting an EIN is free and can be done online through the IRS website in minutes!
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Fatima Al-Hashemi
Don't overthink this! I remember being confused too. Your TIN is just your social security number (the 9 digits on your social security card). Unless your doing business as a company, then you would have an EIN. But for a regular person, SSN = TIN.
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Dylan Mitchell
ā¢This isn't always true tho. I'm working in the US on a visa and don't qualify for an SSN, so I had to apply for an ITIN to pay my taxes. That's my TIN. So it depends on your situation.
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