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Wait im confused. I've been selling on Etsy for years and never worried about this. I just report whatever is on my 1099k. Are you guys saying im doing it wrong??? Now im stressing that I've been doing my taxes incorrectly this whole time!
You're actually doing it the simple way which is perfectly fine! Reporting the income as it appears on your 1099-K is the cash basis method that most tax preparers recommend for small sellers. It's straightforward and matches what the IRS already sees. The discussion here is mainly about sellers who prefer to record sales in their bookkeeping when the customer pays (accrual method) rather than when the platform releases the funds (cash method). Either way is legitimate for tax purposes as long as you're consistent, but using the same method as your 1099-K (cash basis) is definitely the path of least resistance.
As someone who's been dealing with this exact issue across multiple platforms (eBay, Etsy, Amazon), I can confirm this timing difference is incredibly frustrating. What helped me was creating a simple reconciliation spreadsheet that tracks three columns: 1) Sale date, 2) Payment received date, and 3) Platform payout date. This way I can easily see which sales fall into different tax years based on when funds were actually available. I decided to stick with cash basis accounting to match my 1099-Ks, even though it means some December sales don't show up as income until the following year when the platforms release the funds. The key thing I learned is that consistency matters more than which method you choose. Pick either cash or accrual and stick with it year after year. I keep detailed notes in my records explaining any timing differences, which gives me peace of mind if I ever need to explain the numbers to the IRS. For what it's worth, my CPA told me that most small online sellers use cash basis specifically because it eliminates this headache. The platforms are essentially acting as your payment processor, so treating income as received when they release it makes perfect sense from an accounting standpoint.
I'm in a similar situation - just completed my ID.me verification a few days ago and got the same "up to 9 weeks" message. Reading through everyone's experiences here, it sounds like the timeline really varies depending on your specific case. From what I'm gathering, if it was just a random identity verification (which sounds like it might be your case since they didn't specify why), you're probably looking at 3-6 weeks rather than the full 9. The people mentioning longer waits seem to have had additional complications like fraud flags or manual reviews. I'm definitely going to follow the advice about checking transcripts instead of relying on Where's My Refund - seems like that's where the real information is. And I'll probably set up that IP PIN they mentioned just for future protection, even though it won't speed up this current return. Thanks for posting this - it's helpful to see I'm not alone in this waiting game! Fingers crossed we both get our refunds sooner rather than later.
Welcome to the waiting club! š I'm glad this thread has been helpful - it's definitely reassuring to know we're not dealing with this alone. The transcript checking tip seems to be the most consistent advice I'm seeing here too. From all the responses, it really does seem like the 9 weeks is more of a worst-case scenario they give you so you're not constantly calling them. Your situation sounds similar to mine (random verification, no specific reason given), so hopefully we'll both be in that 3-6 week range everyone's talking about. Good call on the IP PIN - even if it doesn't help this time around, sounds like it'll save headaches for future tax seasons. Thanks for sharing your experience too, and here's hoping our refunds come through sooner rather than later! š¤
I just went through the ID.me verification process last month and wanted to share my timeline to give you hope! I completed verification on September 15th and got my refund deposited on October 8th - so about 3.5 weeks total. Like others have mentioned, the transcript is definitely your friend during this waiting period. I saw movement on my transcript about 10 days after verification with some processing codes, and then the 846 refund code appeared about a week before I actually got the deposit. One thing I noticed is that the IRS seems to process verified returns in batches, so timing can depend on when your return hits their queue. Since you filed in April originally, your return is probably already in their system and just needs to go through the post-verification processing steps. The IP PIN is definitely worth getting - it's free and will save you potential headaches next year. I set mine up right after I got my refund and it was super easy. Hang in there! The 9 week timeline is their conservative estimate, but most people I know who had straightforward verification situations got their refunds in 3-6 weeks.
Another option for your FAFSA situation - if your parents absolutely cannot file their taxes in time, you can file the FAFSA as a "provisional independent student" in certain circumstances. This is rare but possible if you can document that you have no contact with your parents or there are other extreme circumstances. You'd need to work directly with your school's financial aid office and provide documentation. It's not easy to qualify for this, but worth asking about if your parents' tax situation won't be resolved soon.
Thanks for this info! Would my situation qualify though? I do have contact with my parents (I live with them now), they just haven't filed taxes. Would that be considered an "extreme circumstance"?
Unfortunately, parents not filing taxes doesn't usually qualify as an extreme circumstance for FAFSA independence. Extreme circumstances typically include things like documented abuse, incarceration of parents, or complete abandonment. In your case, since you have contact with your parents and they're willing to file (just behind), your best option is probably to work with your financial aid office on a professional judgment review. They can sometimes accept alternative documentation of your parents' income (like W-2s or pay stubs) while they work on getting their tax returns filed.
Just to add some clarity on the dependent vs independent status: The key tests for dependency include whether your parents provide more than half your support, whether you're a full-time student under 24, and whether you live with them (temporarily living away for school still counts as living with them). Each tax year stands alone. So you absolutely can be independent in 2023 and dependent in 2024 if your circumstances changed. The IRS only cares about the facts for each specific tax year.
Does income matter too? I thought if you make over a certain amount you can't be claimed as dependent even if your parents support you?
Yes, income does matter! For 2024, if you're a qualifying child (under 24, full-time student, living with parents more than half the year), your gross income must be less than $5,050 to be claimed as a dependent. If you make more than that, your parents can't claim you even if they provide all your support. Since you mentioned you're only working very limited hours now, you'll probably be under that threshold. But it's definitely something to keep track of as you plan for the year.
The 846 code dated 03-13-2024 means your refund was officially issued on that date, but it can take 5-10 business days to actually hit your account depending on your bank. The 766/768 credits dated 04-15 are just IRS accounting entries - they don't affect when you get your money. Since it's been a while since 03-13, I'd definitely call your bank first to see if they received and processed a deposit from "IRS TREAS". Sometimes banks hold IRS deposits for verification or there could have been an issue with your account info. If your bank says no deposit was attempted, then call the IRS refund hotline at 1-800-829-1954. Your transcript looks normal otherwise - the processing date of 03-25 and all the codes check out for a standard EIC refund. Hang in there! š¤
Amara Oluwaseyi
One thing nobody's mentioned - check with your insurance company BEFORE you do this! When my brother bought a car for me in Colorado while I lived in Illinois, there was a gap where neither of our insurance policies wanted to cover it during the drive back. My insurance wouldn't cover it until it was registered in Illinois, his insurance wouldn't cover it because he wasn't the owner, and we ended up having to get expensive temporary transit insurance for the drive home. Also make sure you understand how you'll get the car from Nevada to Minnesota. Will you fly out to drive it back? Will she drive it to you? Each option has different insurance implications.
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CosmicCaptain
ā¢This is such an important point! I had a similar issue buying a car in Georgia while living in Tennessee. Actually had a minor fender bender during the drive home and it turned into an insurance nightmare because of the weird temporary ownership situation. My agent said I should have called them before purchasing to set up a binder policy.
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Aisha Abdullah
ā¢That's a really good point I hadn't considered at all. I was planning to fly out to Nevada and drive it back myself, but I didn't think about the insurance gap. I'll definitely call my insurance agent before proceeding with any of this. Do you know if there's a specific type of coverage I should ask about for this situation? Is "temporary transit insurance" a standard thing they would understand?
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Salim Nasir
Great question about the insurance coverage! Yes, most major insurance companies are familiar with this situation and have specific solutions. You'll want to ask your agent about a "binder" or "temporary coverage" policy that covers the vehicle from the moment of purchase until you get it registered in Minnesota. Some insurers can extend your existing policy to cover a newly purchased vehicle for a limited time (usually 30 days), but you need to notify them within a certain timeframe after purchase - often within 14 days. Others will issue a separate temporary policy specifically for the transit period. The key is calling them BEFORE you purchase to set this up. Have your VIN ready when you call (the dealer should be able to provide this before finalizing the sale). Also make sure the coverage includes comprehensive and collision, not just liability, since you'll be driving an expensive new vehicle across multiple states. One more tip: if you're flying out to get the car, consider having your sister add it to her policy temporarily as a backup, just in case there are any delays or complications with your own coverage. Better to have redundant coverage than none at all!
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