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16 Has anyone actually calculated what the tax might be for the OP? If you bought at around $15K and sold at $27K, that's a $12K gain. Half of that ($6K) is taxable and gets added to your income. If you're in Ontario and make around $60K otherwise, that $6K would be taxed at roughly 30%, so you'd owe about $1,800 in additional tax. Of course, this varies by province and income level.
8 That calculation seems about right based on average tax rates. Important to note that if this pushes OP into a higher tax bracket, a portion could be taxed at a higher rate. Also don't forget that if there were any dividends received while holding the shares, those would have been taxable in the years they were received!
Just want to add something that might help - make sure you keep all your documentation! You'll need your original purchase statements from Starbucks showing when you bought the shares and at what prices. Also keep the sale confirmation showing the $27K proceeds. The CRA might ask for these documents if they review your return, and having everything organized will make filing much easier. If you've lost any paperwork, contact Starbucks HR or whoever manages the employee stock plan - they should be able to provide statements showing your purchase history. Also, depending on how long you held the shares, you might want to double-check that this qualifies as a capital gain and not employment income. Generally employee stock purchases are treated as capital gains when sold, but there can be exceptions depending on the specific plan structure.
Has anyone used the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator online? I tried it but got totally confused when entering multiple jobs.
The IRS Withholding Estimator works OK if you have a good idea of what you'll earn at each job. The trick is to enter ALL jobs before submitting - there's an "Add another job" button that's easy to miss. For jobs with variable income, I enter an average monthly amount and multiply by how many months I expect to work there. It's not perfect but better than nothing. The estimator will give you exact dollar amounts to put on line 4(c) of your W-4.
I've been in a similar situation with multiple variable income jobs, and here's what worked for me after a lot of trial and error: Since you can't predict the variable income accurately, I'd recommend using a "safe harbor" approach. Calculate 110% of last year's total tax liability and divide that by the number of pay periods from your full-time job. Have that amount withheld as additional withholding on line 4(c) of your W-4 for your steady job. This way, even if your variable jobs earn more than expected, you'll avoid underpayment penalties because you're meeting the safe harbor rule. You might get a refund, but that's better than owing plus penalties. For the variable jobs, I keep their W-4s simple - just basic information in Steps 1 and 5, no additional withholding. Let your main job do the heavy lifting on withholding. Also, consider making quarterly estimated tax payments if your variable income is substantial. You can adjust these throughout the year as you get a better sense of your actual earnings. The IRS Form 1040-ES has worksheets that help with this approach. The key is building in a buffer for uncertainty rather than trying to be perfectly precise with unpredictable income streams.
Pro tip: The system is usually most stable between 2-4pm EST. Thats when I always check mine with no issues
good to know! ill try again then
Has anyone tried accessing through the IRS2Go mobile app instead of the website? Is that working any better today? โข Sometimes the mobile interface uses different server resources โข Wondering if the API endpoints have different availability โข Trying to determine if this is a full system outage or just web portal Really need my transcript for a loan application due this week.
I'm feeling your stress about the loan application deadline! I tried the IRS2Go app about an hour ago and it's giving the same errors as the website. I suspect they share the same backend systems, though I can't be 100% certain. You might want to contact your loan officer to see if they can accept alternative documentation until the IRS systems are back online. Many lenders have contingency procedures for IRS outages during tax season.
I'm experiencing the exact same issue! Been trying since 7 AM this morning and keep getting timeout errors. What's particularly frustrating is that I called the IRS helpline and after a 45-minute hold, the representative told me they're aware of "technical difficulties" but couldn't give me a timeline for when it'll be fixed. She suggested trying again in 24-48 hours, which is useless when I have a CPA appointment tomorrow and need these transcripts beforehand. The system seems to fail right at the identity verification step - I can log in but can't actually retrieve any documents.
Giovanni Colombo
Has anyone used TurboTax to compare these methods? Is there a way to see side-by-side which one gives better deductions without manually calculating everything twice?
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Fatima Al-Qasimi
โขTurboTax Self-Employed has a feature that compares both methods if you enter all your info. I used it last year and it showed me that for my situation (about 8,000 business miles in a 5-year-old car), standard mileage was better by about $800. But you do need to enter all your actual expenses first which is kind of a pain.
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Daniel White
Great question! I faced this exact dilemma last year with my marketing consulting business. Here's what I learned from running both calculations: For your 2019 CR-V with 15,000 business miles at 70% business use, the standard mileage would give you $10,050 (15,000 ร $0.67). But with a newer vehicle like yours, actual expenses might be better. Here's a quick way to estimate: Add up your annual car costs (loan payments, insurance, gas, maintenance, registration, etc.) and multiply by 70%. Don't forget depreciation - that's usually the biggest factor with newer cars. For a 2019 CR-V, you might be looking at $4,000-6,000 in annual depreciation alone. One thing that helped me decide was tracking everything for just one month to get a sense of my actual costs, then extrapolating. If your monthly car expenses ร 12 ร 70% comes out higher than $10,050, actual expenses is probably better. Also consider your future plans - if you're planning to keep this car for many years and expect high maintenance costs as it ages, starting with actual expenses now might be smart since you can't switch later. But if you typically trade cars every few years, standard mileage gives you more flexibility. The key is being meticulous with record-keeping whichever method you choose!
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