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Do I still need to mail Form 8453 for stock sales to IRS if my trading volume is under $10,000,000? TurboTax is confusing me

So I've been trying to file my taxes through TurboTax and hit a snag with my stock transactions. I had way too many trades for the software to import automatically, so I had to enter summary information instead. Now TurboTax is telling me I need to mail my brokerage statements along with Form 8453 (even though I'm e-filing). The thing is, my total stock sales volume was nowhere near $10,000,000 - probably around $65,000 total for the year. I've read somewhere that mailing in Form 8453 with statements isn't necessary if you're under that $10,000,000 threshold. When I asked TurboTax about this, they gave me this answer: "The IRS does not require a mailed statement, if you qualify. From Schedule D instructions: Exception 1. Form 8949 isn't required for certain transactions. You may be able to aggregate those transactions and report them directly on either line 1a (for short-term transactions) or line 8a (for long-term transactions) of Schedule D. This option applies only to transactions (other than sales of collectibles) for which: * You received a Form 1099-B (or substitute statement) that shows basis was reported to the IRS and doesn't show any adjustments in box 1f or 1g; * The Ordinary box in box 2 isn't checked; and * You don't need to make any adjustments to the basis or type of gain or (loss) reported on Form 1099-B (or substitute statement), or to your gain or (loss). If you choose to report these transactions directly on Schedule D, you don't need to include them on Form 8949 and don't need to attach a statement. For more information, see the Schedule D instructions." I'm still confused about whether I actually need to mail anything. Can someone clarify this for me? Do I need to mail Form 8453 with my brokerage statements or not?

Amina Diop

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Does anyone know if this same $10M rule applies to crypto transactions? My tax software (not TurboTax) is giving me a similar message about mailing in statements for my crypto trading, but I only had about $25k in total crypto sales last year.

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Amina Diop

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Thanks for the info! My exchange (Coinbase) sent me a 1099-B this year with basis information included for most transactions. Sounds like I don't need to mail anything in after all. One more question though - for the few transactions where basis wasn't reported to the IRS (it says "basis not reported to IRS" on the form), should I be doing anything different with those?

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Ethan Scott

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For transactions where basis wasn't reported to the IRS, you'll need to report those on Form 8949 instead of using the summary method on Schedule D. Even though you don't need to mail anything in, you should keep detailed records of your purchase dates, amounts, and basis calculations for those specific transactions. The IRS requires more detailed reporting when basis isn't provided to them by the exchange. You can still e-file everything - just make sure those non-basis-reported transactions are properly documented on Form 8949 with the appropriate code in column (f) indicating that basis was not reported to the IRS. This is pretty common with crypto since exchanges only started providing comprehensive 1099-B forms recently. As long as your total volume is under $10M, no mailing is required, but having good records is crucial for the non-basis-reported transactions.

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Emma Wilson

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This is such a helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar situation but with options trading. I had about 150 options contracts expire worthless last year (total premium paid around $8,000), plus some profitable trades. My broker sent me a 1099-B, but I'm getting the same confusing prompts from my tax software about mailing statements. From reading this discussion, it sounds like the same $10M rule applies to options as well? My total "sales" volume was only about $35,000, so I should be well under any threshold. The tricky part is that some of my expired options don't show up on the 1099-B at all - just the ones that were actually sold or exercised. Should I be reporting those expired worthless options separately, or can I include them in my summary totals? I want to make sure I'm claiming all my losses properly without triggering any red flags.

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Jean Claude

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I was in almost the exact same situation last year - new job after unemployment and accidentally claimed 0 allowances on my W4. The stress is real when you see those huge tax withholdings! Here's what I learned: You're absolutely allowed to adjust your withholding to reflect your actual tax situation. The key point everyone's making about being unemployed for half the year is spot-on - your total annual income will be much lower than what payroll assumes when they see your current salary. I ended up using the IRS withholding calculator just like you did, and it suggested a similar adjustment. Changed my W4 from 0 to 4 allowances (this was before the new form) and it worked out perfectly. Got a small refund instead of the massive one I was heading toward. Don't stress about the legal aspect - adjusting your W4 for legitimate reasons like unemployment periods is exactly what the system is designed for. The IRS wants you to pay the right amount throughout the year, not massively overpay. Just make sure to use their official calculator and you'll be fine.

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Grace Thomas

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Thanks for sharing your experience! It's really reassuring to hear from someone who went through the exact same situation. The stress is definitely real - I kept second-guessing myself wondering if I was doing something wrong by wanting to adjust it so much. Did you run into any issues with your employer when you made such a big change from 0 to 4? And how quickly did you see the adjustment in your paychecks? I'm hoping to get this sorted out before my next pay period so I can stop giving the government such a massive interest-free loan!

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Michael Adams

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I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now! Started my job in August after being laid off in March, and I also mistakenly put 0 allowances on my W4. My paychecks have been painful to look at with how much they're taking out. What really helped me understand this was realizing that the payroll system doesn't know about your unemployment period - it just sees your current salary and calculates as if you've been making that amount all year. So of course it's going to overwithhold massively. I used the IRS calculator last week and it told me I could claim up to 6 allowances and still get a small refund. I was nervous about such a big jump, but after reading through all these responses, I'm definitely going to submit my new W4 tomorrow. One thing I wanted to add - make sure you run the calculator again in January to adjust for the full year of income at your new salary. The adjustment you make now is specifically because of the unemployment period, so you'll want to recalculate for next year when you'll be working the full 12 months.

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Zara Malik

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This is exactly why I still do paper returns. Everyone thinks I'm crazy but computers fail, software glitches, systems crash, and suddenly hours of work vanish. With paper, what you write stays written.

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Luca Greco

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Paper returns take WAY longer to process though. My friend who filed paper is still waiting for his refund from LAST year, while I got mine direct deposited 9 days after e-filing. Plus the error rate is much higher with paper returns.

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Zara Malik

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I'd rather wait longer for my refund than lose hours of work and stress about missing deadlines because software failed. I've been filing paper returns for 20+ years and have never had a problem with the processing. Yes, it takes longer to get a refund, but I budget accordingly and don't rely on that money coming quickly. As for error rates, I make fewer mistakes when I'm carefully working through a paper form than when I'm rushing through screen after screen of a software program. The IRS statistics about higher error rates on paper forms include a lot of people who don't read instructions carefully. If you take your time, paper is actually more reliable in my experience.

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Mia Rodriguez

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I feel your pain - losing hours of tax work is absolutely maddening! I had a similar experience with different software a few years back and it taught me to be paranoid about backups. Beyond what others have suggested about contacting TaxAct support, I'd recommend checking if your browser has any cached data that might help. Sometimes going to your browser history and finding the TaxAct pages you were on can reveal temporary files or cached forms that might have some of your data. Also, if you used any browser autofill features while entering information, check your browser's saved form data - you might be able to recover some of the basic info like names, addresses, and employer information that way. For next time (with any software), I learned to take a screenshot after completing each major section AND save a PDF of the return in progress every 30 minutes or so. It's a bit tedious but saves so much heartache when things go wrong. The tax software companies really need to do better with their autosave and recovery features - this shouldn't be something taxpayers have to worry about!

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Miguel Silva

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That's really smart advice about checking browser autofill data! I never would have thought of that. Do you know if this works with all browsers or just certain ones? I use Safari mostly but I'm wondering if Chrome or Firefox might save more of this kind of form data that could be recovered. Also, when you say save a PDF every 30 minutes - do you mean just printing the current view to PDF, or is there a specific export feature most tax software has? I'm definitely going to implement this backup strategy going forward because losing all that work was seriously one of the most frustrating experiences I've had in years.

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Has anyone used TurboTax for filing with both 1042-S and W-2? Wondering if it handles this situation correctly or if I need to go to a professional?

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Paolo Romano

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I tried using TurboTax for this exact situation last year and it was a nightmare. It kept trying to treat my fellowship as self-employment income and wanted me to pay self-employment tax on it. Ended up having to go to a CPA who specializes in international tax issues and he found that TurboTax had miscalculated my tax by over $3000!

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Edwards Hugo

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Just want to add some clarity on the estimated tax payment timing since there's been some confusion in the thread. You absolutely should make that Q4 estimated payment by January 15th, 2026 - this is separate from your actual tax return filing. However, there's a potential strategy you might consider: if your W-2 withholdings from January-April were substantial enough to cover 90% of your total 2025 tax liability (including the fellowship income), you might not owe penalties at all. You can calculate this roughly by estimating your total tax for the year and seeing if your W-2 withholdings hit that 90% threshold. Also, since you mentioned you're a foreign resident considered a US tax resident - make sure you understand which test made you a tax resident (substantial presence test vs green card test). This affects how certain treaty benefits apply and whether you need to file Form 8840 or other forms. Given the complexity with multi-state filing (FL and CA), treaty considerations, and mixed income types, I'd honestly recommend getting professional help for this first year. Once you understand the process, future years will be much easier to handle yourself.

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Anyone use any good apps for tracking these kinds of receipts from private sellers? I'm terrible at keeping paper and my phone is always with me.

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I use Expensify and it's amazing. You can create custom digital receipts for cash or private party purchases, attach photos, and even have sellers sign on your phone screen. Syncs with most accounting software too.

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Ally Tailer

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Great question! I run a small cabinetry business and deal with this all the time. The IRS doesn't require formal receipts from businesses for every expense, but you do need "adequate records" to substantiate your deductions. For private seller purchases, I create simple handwritten receipts that include: date, seller's name and contact info, detailed description of materials, quantity, price paid, and business purpose. I have the seller sign it and keep a copy. For smaller purchases under $75, the IRS is generally more lenient on documentation requirements. A few other tips: Take photos of what you bought, pay by check or electronic transfer when possible (creates a paper trail), and keep a purchase log in your truck. I also recommend getting a simple receipt book from an office supply store - makes the whole process look more professional and sellers don't mind filling them out. The key is consistency. Pick a system and stick with it for all your purchases, whether from Home Depot or your neighbor's barn. Your future self (and accountant) will thank you!

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Sean Murphy

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This is really helpful advice! I'm just getting started with my woodworking business and the $75 threshold is good to know. Quick question - when you say "business purpose" on the receipt, is it enough to write something general like "lumber for woodworking projects" or do I need to be more specific about what I'm making? Also, have you ever had any pushback from sellers about signing receipts, especially for smaller purchases?

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