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Has anyone used TurboTax to prepare their S-Corp return with K-1? I'm in the same boat as OP and wondering if the software walks you through this properly or if I should use something else?

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Omar Zaki

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I tried using TurboTax Business for my S-Corp last year and found it pretty confusing for a first-timer. Switched to TaxAct which was actually much better for S-Corp returns in my opinion - more straightforward questions and better guidance for the K-1 part.

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Luca Esposito

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Just wanted to add my experience as someone who went through this exact situation last year. The key thing to remember is that even though you had no revenue/expenses, you still need to properly complete the K-1 because it establishes important records for future years. A few specific tips for your zero-activity K-1: - Box 1 (Ordinary business income/loss): Enter "0" not blank - Box 16 (Foreign transactions): Enter "N/A" if no foreign activity - Make sure to include your beginning and ending capital account balances Also, keep detailed records of any startup costs you personally paid for - these might not affect this year's return but could be important for future deductions. The IRS likes to see consistency in how S-Corps report, even in dormant years. Good luck with your first S-Corp filing! The learning curve is steep but gets easier each year.

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Sophie Footman

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This is really helpful, especially the specific box guidance! I'm curious about the startup costs you mentioned - if I personally paid for things like state filing fees or legal costs to set up the S-Corp before it was officially formed, how do I track those? Do they go on this year's return or get carried forward somehow? I want to make sure I'm documenting everything properly from the start.

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My tax guy told me that if you're using the simplified home office deduction ($5 per square foot, up to 300 sq ft), you can't also separately deduct utilities like internet. But if you use the regular method where you calculate actual expenses, then you can deduct the business percentage of your internet. Worth considering which method gives you the better deduction.

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Jamal Brown

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Wait, does that mean if I take the $5/sqft deduction, I shouldn't be deducting my business internet separately? I've been doing both for the past 3 years...

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Correct - if you're taking the simplified home office deduction (the $5 per square foot method), that's supposed to cover all your home office expenses including utilities, rent/mortgage interest, repairs, etc. You don't get to deduct any of those things separately. If you want to deduct specific expenses like internet, you need to use the regular method where you calculate the actual costs and the business percentage. You'd need to compare both methods to see which gives you the better deduction. In many cases, especially if you have significant specific expenses like a higher internet bill for business, the regular method might be more beneficial.

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As a videographer myself, I've found that tracking data usage is actually pretty easy. Most routers have tools to see which devices use how much data. My business computer uses about 85% of our total household data with those big video file uploads, so that's what I deduct. I also keep a spreadsheet showing file sizes of work uploads vs estimated personal usage to back up my claim if needed.

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Giovanni Rossi

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This is really smart! What router or app do you use to track this? I'm a photographer with similar large file uploads and would love to be able to document my usage more accurately.

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Caden Turner

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I use a Netgear Nighthawk router that has built-in usage monitoring through the Netgear app. It breaks down data usage by device and even by time periods, so I can see exactly how much my work computer uses versus our phones, streaming devices, etc. You can also try apps like GlassWire on your computer to track just your work machine's usage if your router doesn't have these features. The key is having some kind of documented basis for your percentage - even a simple month-long tracking log would probably satisfy the IRS if questioned.

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One more suggestion - use the IRS Withholding Calculator (Google it) and run your numbers there. It's a bit clunky but will give you a decent starting point. In my experience though, you might want to withhold a bit MORE than it suggests if you really want to avoid owing.

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Monique Byrd

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The IRS calculator is TERRIBLE for any slightly complicated situation. It doesn't handle multiple income sources well or irregular income like bonuses. I used it and still ended up owing $2,300!

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Manny Lark

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I've been dealing with this exact same issue for years! One thing that finally worked for us was using the "Tax Withholding Estimator" on the IRS website, but with a twist - I always add an extra $50-75 per paycheck beyond what it recommends. The problem with most W-4 calculators (including the IRS one) is they assume everything stays constant throughout the year. But if either of you gets bonuses, overtime, or any irregular income, you'll end up short. Since you owed $3,200 last year, here's what I'd suggest: 1. Use the IRS estimator as a baseline 2. Add at least $130 extra per paycheck (that's $3,200 รท 24 paychecks if paid bi-weekly) 3. Consider checking "Married filing separately" on the W-4 like you mentioned - it really does increase withholding Also, don't stress too much about over-withholding. Getting a refund is way better than scrambling to find $3,200 at tax time! You can always adjust mid-year if the withholding seems too high.

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Liam Brown

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One thing thats worth noting - im seeing TONS of 971/570 codes this year compared to previous years. The IRS got extra funding to do more compliance checks. They're reviewing returns more carefully but also processing them faster once the review is complete. So while more people are seeing these codes, the resolution time is actually improved from last year.

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Olivia Garcia

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true. i work at a tax prep office and we've seen way more verification letters this year, but once clients respond, the processing is much faster than it was in 2023-2024.

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I know how stressful this is! I went through the exact same thing last year with codes 971 and 570. In my case, it turned out they were just verifying my dependent information since I had claimed my daughter for the first time after a custody change. The whole process took about 5 weeks from when the codes first appeared - I got a CP05 letter asking for documentation, sent it back within a week, and then got my refund about 3 weeks later. The key is to respond immediately when you get their letter and send everything they ask for via certified mail so you have proof of delivery. Also, don't stress too much - the vast majority of these reviews result in the full refund being released once they verify everything checks out. Hang in there! ๐Ÿคž

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Hugh Intensity

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This might be a dumb question but does anyone know a good tax software that handles options trading well? I've been using H&R Block but it seems totally confused by my covered calls and cash-secured puts.

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Effie Alexander

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TurboTax Premier has worked pretty well for me with options trading. It's expensive but worth it if you do a lot of trading. TaxAct is cheaper and also handles options well, but the interface isn't as user-friendly. I've heard really bad things about Credit Karma Tax (now Cash App Taxes) for investment reporting.

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MidnightRider

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I've been dealing with the same TD Ameritrade 1099-B confusion for years! One thing that really helped me was understanding that the "basis reported to IRS" distinction basically tells you how much work you have to do. When TD reports the basis, they're telling the IRS what you paid - so you just need to make sure your tax software captures the right gain/loss. When they don't report basis, you're on the hook to prove what you paid if the IRS ever asks questions. For your $63k trading volume, definitely pay attention to the wash sale adjustments. TD Ameritrade is pretty good about calculating these, but they only track wash sales within their own system. If you have accounts at other brokers or bought the same securities in a retirement account, you'll need to manually track those wash sales yourself. Also, since you mentioned futures trading - those Section 1256 contracts are actually treated more favorably tax-wise because of that 60/40 long-term/short-term split, regardless of holding period. So even if you held a futures contract for just one day, 60% of the gain gets long-term capital gains treatment. Pretty nice tax advantage compared to regular stock trading!

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Gael Robinson

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Thanks for breaking down the Section 1256 contracts! I had no idea about the 60/40 rule - that's actually really helpful to know. I've been treating my futures gains as all short-term since I usually only hold them for a few days. Quick question though - do you know if this 60/40 treatment applies to options on futures too, or just the actual futures contracts? I sometimes trade options on /ES and /NQ and I'm not sure if those get the same favorable tax treatment or if they're treated like regular equity options. Also, you mentioned tracking wash sales across brokers - is there any good way to do this automatically or do I really need to track it all manually in a spreadsheet?

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