IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Saleem Vaziri

•

One other tip from another F1 student: for state residency in FreeTaxUSA, after selecting "non-resident," make sure you're only reporting income that was earned in that specific state. The software should limit taxation to state-source income, but sometimes you need to verify this manually. In my case, I had a summer internship in a different state from where my university is located. Had to file as a non-resident in both states, but only report the income earned in each respective state.

0 coins

That's helpful - I did have a paid campus job at my university in Massachusetts, but I also did some freelance work online for a company based in California. Should I be filing in both states then?

0 coins

Saleem Vaziri

•

Yes, you'll likely need to file in both Massachusetts and California. For Massachusetts, report only your campus job income. For California, you'll need to determine if your freelance work counts as California-source income (it often does if the company is based there, even if you performed the work in Massachusetts). FreeTaxUSA can handle multi-state returns, but you'll need to be careful about allocating the income correctly. And select "non-resident" for both states since you're an F1 student in your first five years in the US.

0 coins

As someone who went through this exact same confusion last year, I completely understand your frustration! The lack of clear guidance for international students in tax software is really frustrating. Based on what others have shared and my own experience, you should definitely select "non-resident" for Massachusetts. Since you're on an F1 visa and have only been in the US for 15 months, you're considered a non-resident alien for federal tax purposes, and Massachusetts generally follows that determination. One thing I learned the hard way is to double-check that FreeTaxUSA is only taxing your Massachusetts-source income (like your campus job) and not trying to tax any income from other sources. The software should handle this automatically when you select non-resident, but it's worth verifying. Also, don't forget about Form 8843 that someone mentioned - it's required for F1 students even if you don't owe any taxes. FreeTaxUSA can help you prepare it, but you have to look for it specifically in the foreign income section. Good luck with your filing! The first year is definitely the most confusing, but it gets easier once you understand your status.

0 coins

Darcy Moore

•

Thank you so much for this comprehensive overview! This is exactly what I needed to hear from someone who's been through the same situation. I was getting really stressed about potentially filing incorrectly. I'll definitely select "non-resident" for Massachusetts and make sure to double-check that only my campus job income is being taxed by MA. I had no idea about Form 8843 - I'll search for that in the foreign income section right away. It's reassuring to know that the first year is the hardest and that other international students have successfully navigated this with FreeTaxUSA. I was starting to wonder if I should switch to a different tax software, but it sounds like the issue is more about understanding my status than the software itself.

0 coins

Are you writing off all your business expenses correctly? I'm self employed too and was shocked at my tax bill until I learned what I could deduct. Car mileage, home office, cell phone, internet, laptop, software subscriptions, health insurance premiums, business travel, professional development... the list goes on. My tax guy found over $20k in legit deductions I was missing.

0 coins

This! I wasn't tracking my mileage for years and missed out on thousands in deductions. I now use MileIQ app and it's a game changer. Also, if you have a separate room used exclusively for business, that home office deduction is significant.

0 coins

I feel your pain! I went through something similar my first year hitting six figures as a freelancer. That 45-50k total tax bill is unfortunately pretty normal for self-employment income at your level. A few things that might help reduce the sting: 1. **Quarterly payments for next year** - Since you now know your income level, increase those quarterly payments to avoid another big surprise. Aim for about 35% of your gross income. 2. **Business structure** - At your income level, it might be worth exploring an S-Corp election. You'd pay yourself a reasonable salary (subject to payroll taxes) and take the rest as distributions (no SE tax). Could save you several thousand annually. 3. **Maximize retirement contributions** - A Solo 401k lets you contribute as both employer and employee, potentially up to $69,000 for 2024. Even a $20k contribution could save you $5-7k in taxes. 4. **Track EVERYTHING** - Business meals (50% deductible), equipment, software, professional memberships, continuing education. I use QuickBooks Self-Employed to categorize expenses automatically. The good news? You made $160k! That's amazing. The tax bite hurts but it means your business is thriving. Just plan better for next year so there are no surprises.

0 coins

This is incredibly helpful, thank you! I'm actually in a very similar situation - first year breaking into six figures with my consulting business and feeling overwhelmed by the tax implications. The S-Corp election sounds intriguing but also complicated. Do you have any recommendations for resources to learn more about whether it makes sense for my situation? I'm worried about the additional paperwork and compliance requirements, but if it could save me thousands in SE tax, it might be worth exploring. Also, when you mention "reasonable salary" for S-Corp - how do they determine what's reasonable? I've heard the IRS scrutinizes this pretty closely.

0 coins

Summer Green

•

Quick tax tip: If you do get a 1099-K for personal item sales, make sure you document everything as best you can. Take screenshots of listings showing these were personal items, note approximate purchase dates/prices of original items, etc. The burden of proof is on you to show these were personal and not business sales if questioned.

0 coins

Isabel Vega

•

This is super helpful! What happens if you get a 1099-K but sold different kinds of items - some personal stuff like I mentioned, but also a few things that might count as business inventory? Do I need to split those up somehow?

0 coins

Summer Green

•

Yes, you would need to separate the two types of transactions. The items that were business inventory would go on Schedule C as part of your business reporting. The personal items sold would be handled as personal property sales (no reporting if sold at a loss, or capital gains if sold at a profit). I recommend creating a simple spreadsheet that lists each item sold, whether it was personal or business, approximate original cost, and selling price. This documentation is crucial if you're ever questioned about the mixed transactions on your 1099-K. Keep your business and personal selling activities clearly delineated - this will save you tremendous headaches if you face an audit.

0 coins

Gael Robinson

•

I got a 1099k for $2800 last year for selling personal stuff and just ignored it because I didn't make a profit. Got a nasty letter from the IRS 6 months later. Don't make my mistake! Even if you don't owe taxes, you need to account for the 1099k on your return!!

0 coins

What ended up happening? Did you have to pay penalties or anything? This is literally my situation right now and im freaking out!

0 coins

I had to file an amended return and pay a penalty for late filing even though I didn't actually owe any taxes! The IRS computer system just sees the 1099-K and expects you to report it somehow on your return. I ended up using Form 8949 to show the sales with my cost basis (estimated since I didn't have receipts) which resulted in losses that offset the 1099-K income. Took about 4 months to resolve and cost me $200 in penalties plus the stress. Definitely file something even if you think you don't owe - the IRS matching system is automated and will catch unreported 1099-Ks.

0 coins

Kaylee Cook

•

Isn't there a hobby loss rule or something too? I thought if you make money selling stuff regularly, even personal items, the IRS might consider it a hobby and there are different rules for that vs a business vs just selling your personal junk?

0 coins

Yes, there's definitely a middle ground called "hobby income" that falls between casual personal sales and an actual business. The IRS uses several factors to determine this, including whether you're making repeated sales in a systematic way, whether you depend on the income, and whether you're putting time into it like a business. If it's determined to be a hobby, you report the income but can only deduct expenses up to the amount of income (no losses). The income would go on Schedule 1 rather than Schedule C.

0 coins

Lauren Zeb

•

This is a great question that many people face when transitioning from business to personal sales! Based on your description, you're absolutely right to treat these current sales as personal property rather than business income. The key factors working in your favor are: 1) You're not actively running a reselling business anymore, 2) These are items you've owned for many years (15+ years for some), 3) You have no receipts because they were gifts or personal purchases from long ago, and 4) You're likely selling them for less than their original value. Even though you'll receive a 1099-K if you exceed $600 in sales, you should report this on Schedule 1 (Line 8z - Other Income) with a description like "Personal items sold at loss" rather than on Schedule C. This shows the IRS you're properly accounting for the 1099-K without incorrectly categorizing it as business income. Just make sure to keep good records showing these were long-term personal possessions - photos of items before selling, notes about when you acquired them, any old emails showing they were gifts, etc. This documentation will be valuable if the IRS ever questions why you had Schedule C income one year but not the next.

0 coins

Anthony Young

•

This is really helpful advice! I'm new to understanding these tax distinctions and have a follow-up question. If someone had a mix of items - some clearly personal belongings from years ago, but also some items they bought more recently (like within the last year) that they decided they didn't want - would those newer purchases potentially be treated differently? Or does the key factor remain that you're not actively running a business and not buying things specifically to resell?

0 coins

StormChaser

•

This is a really helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar situation with my teenager's I-Bonds. We elected annual reporting to take advantage of the kiddie tax exclusion, but I was confused about how to handle the 3-month penalty when we had to redeem early for unexpected expenses. Based on what everyone has shared here, it sounds like option 1 is definitely the way to go - only report the interest you actually get to keep. It makes sense that the penalty effectively means that interest was never earned in the first place. I'm curious though - does this same principle apply if you have multiple I-Bonds purchased at different times and you only redeem some of them early? Do you calculate the penalty impact on a bond-by-bond basis, or is there some other method for tracking which specific interest gets forfeited?

0 coins

Great question about multiple bonds! Yes, you calculate the penalty impact on a bond-by-bond basis. Each I-Bond has its own purchase date and redemption date, so the 3-month penalty applies specifically to each bond that's redeemed early. For example, if you bought one I-Bond in January 2023 and another in March 2023, then redeemed only the January bond early in February 2024, the 3-month penalty would only affect the interest from that specific January bond (November 2023, December 2023, and January 2024 interest). The March bond would be unaffected if you kept it. The Treasury Direct statements actually break this down by individual bond, showing the interest earned and any penalties applied to each specific bond. This makes it easier to track which interest amounts to include or exclude when filing your annual returns with the election method.

0 coins

Ethan Moore

•

This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm a newcomer here but dealing with the exact same situation. My daughter had I-Bonds that we redeemed early for college expenses, and I was completely confused about how to handle the 3-month penalty with annual reporting. From everything I've read here, it's clear that option 1 is correct - only report the interest you actually get to keep after the penalty. The logic makes perfect sense that if interest is forfeited due to early redemption, it's treated as never having been earned in the first place. One follow-up question though - when you're calculating which months of interest to exclude, do you work backwards from the redemption date? So if I redeemed in March 2024, would I exclude January, February, and March 2024 interest? Or is there a specific method the Treasury uses to determine which 3 months are penalized? Also, has anyone had their return questioned by the IRS when using this method? I want to make sure I have proper documentation in case there are any questions during review.

0 coins

Prev1...24392440244124422443...5643Next