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I went through something very similar when my grandfather passed and left behind a huge collection of vintage postcards and military memorabilia. One thing I learned that might help - keep detailed records of everything you research for values, even if you don't sell certain items right away. Take photos of the items with any identifying marks, serial numbers, or condition details. Save screenshots of comparable sales from eBay "sold listings" or auction sites with dates. This documentation becomes crucial if you sell items later or if the IRS ever questions your valuations. Also, consider selling higher-value items in different tax years if it makes sense for your mom's overall tax situation. Since each sale is a separate taxable event, spreading them out might help manage the tax impact, especially with that higher collectibles rate that Sean mentioned. The most important thing is getting that fair market value established at the time of your father's passing - everything else flows from there. Sorry for your loss, and I hope this helps make the process a bit easier for your family.
This is really solid advice, especially about documenting everything even if you're not selling right away. I hadn't thought about spreading sales across different tax years - that could definitely help manage the tax burden since collectibles get hit with that higher rate. The eBay "sold listings" tip is gold too. I've been trying to figure out how to document values for some of my dad's items, and actual completed sales seem like the most defensible way to show fair market value. Did you run into any issues with the IRS accepting your documentation methods, or were they pretty reasonable about it?
I'm sorry for your family's loss. Dealing with inherited collections can feel overwhelming on top of everything else you're going through. One additional consideration that might help - if any items in the collection have significantly appreciated since your father's passing, you might want to prioritize selling those first while documenting their current values. The step-up basis everyone mentioned is locked in at the date of death, but if items continue to appreciate after that date, you'll owe taxes on gains from that stepped-up value forward. Also, keep in mind that if your mom is over 65 or has lower income, she might qualify for the 0% capital gains rate on regular investments, but unfortunately that doesn't apply to collectibles - they're still subject to the higher collectibles rate regardless of income level. For the items you're keeping for sentimental value, consider having those appraised too if they're valuable. If something happens to them later (theft, damage, etc.), having that post-death valuation documented could be important for insurance purposes. The suggestion about spreading sales across tax years is smart, especially since you mentioned this could total $3,000-5,000. Breaking that into smaller chunks annually might help manage the overall tax impact for your mom.
Thank you for mentioning the insurance angle - that's something I hadn't considered at all. We've been so focused on the tax implications that I forgot about protecting the items we're keeping. The point about items appreciating after the date of death is really important too. Some of these baseball cards seem to be getting more valuable as time goes on, so we probably shouldn't wait too long to sell if that's our plan. Do you know if there's any time limit on when we need to establish that step-up basis value, or can we document it even a year or two later as long as we can prove what things were worth when he passed? The idea about spreading sales across tax years makes a lot of sense given that higher collectibles rate. We're definitely not in any rush to sell everything at once anyway.
There's no specific IRS deadline for establishing the step-up basis value, but the closer to the date of death you can document it, the better. The key is being able to reasonably demonstrate what the fair market value was on that specific date. You can absolutely document values a year or two later, but you'll want to work backwards using historical data. For collectibles, this might mean finding auction results or sales from around that time period, adjusting for condition differences, or getting a retrospective appraisal from someone who can credibly estimate what items were worth at the date of death. Just keep in mind that the burden of proof is on you if the IRS ever questions the valuation. The more contemporaneous documentation you have (like photos showing condition, research done closer to the death date, or appraisals), the stronger your position will be. But it's definitely not too late to establish these values properly. The insurance documentation point is something a lot of people overlook. If you're keeping valuable items, having that appraisal done now serves double duty - it helps establish values for any future sales AND gives you proper insurance coverage for the pieces you're keeping in the family.
I went through this same situation last year and here's what I learned: The IRS doesn't send a separate confirmation letter when you apply your refund to estimated taxes. However, you should receive a notice (CP21 or similar) within 6-8 weeks after your return is processed that shows the refund amount and confirms it was applied to your estimated tax account. In the meantime, you can check your online IRS account and look for your "Account Transcript" for the current tax year (2024). Look for transaction code 766 with a credit date - this indicates a refund credit applied to estimated taxes. The amount should match your $4,365 refund. If you're still not seeing anything after 6 weeks, definitely call the IRS. I had to call when mine didn't show up properly and the agent was able to confirm immediately that the refund had been correctly applied. Just have your 2023 tax return handy when you call. Don't stress too much - the IRS is generally pretty good about processing these applications correctly, even if their confirmation process isn't very transparent!
This is super helpful! I've been checking my online account but wasn't sure what specific codes to look for. Transaction code 766 - that's exactly what I needed to know. I'm going to log in and check for that right now. It's good to know that the CP21 notice is normal and should arrive within 6-8 weeks. I was starting to worry that something went wrong since I haven't received any paperwork yet, but it sounds like that's typical. I'll definitely keep an eye out for that notice and if I don't see the 766 code or get the notice by then, I'll use some of the calling strategies others mentioned here. Thanks for sharing your experience - it really helps to hear from someone who went through the same thing!
I've been through this exact scenario multiple times as a fellow self-employed taxpayer. Here's what I wish someone had told me the first time: The key thing to understand is that when you elect to apply your refund to estimated taxes, the IRS essentially creates a credit on your account rather than issuing you a check. This credit gets automatically applied to your quarterly payment due dates. Your best bet is to check your IRS online account transcript about 4-6 weeks after your return was accepted. Look specifically for: - Transaction Code 766 (credit to your account) - The date and amount matching your $4,365 refund - Any estimated tax payment credits showing up for 2024 One thing that caught me off guard my first time: the IRS typically applies the entire refund to your first quarter unless you specifically designated otherwise during filing. So your $4,365 might all be sitting as a credit for Q1 2024, which means you'd still owe the full amounts for Q2, Q3, and Q4. If you can't find clear confirmation online after 6 weeks, calling the IRS is your best option. Have your 2023 return and SSN ready. The wait times are brutal but they can give you a definitive answer about where your refund was applied.
This is really comprehensive advice, thank you! I had no idea that the IRS would apply the entire refund to Q1 by default - that's actually a huge piece of information I was missing. I just assumed it would be split evenly across all four quarters when I selected the option in TurboTax. So if I'm understanding correctly, my $4,365 refund is probably sitting as a credit for Q1 2024, which means I still need to make full payments for the remaining quarters? That would actually explain why I haven't seen any obvious changes in my estimated payment amounts for the later quarters. I'm going to check my transcript this weekend for that transaction code 766. If the entire amount went to Q1, I'll need to recalculate what I owe for Q2-Q4. Do you happen to know if there's a way to request the IRS redistribute the credit across quarters after the fact, or am I stuck with their default allocation?
One approach my spouse and I use is to just slightly overwithhold by adding an extra fixed amount on line 4(c) of both our W-4s. We each add $25 per paycheck. By the end of the year, that's an extra $1300 withheld between us (we're both paid biweekly), which has always covered any surprise tax issues from our investments or side hustles.
Congratulations on getting married! As someone who went through this same situation a couple years ago, I'd definitely recommend starting with the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator that Ezra mentioned. It's free and gives you personalized recommendations. One thing I learned the hard way - don't just guess or use rules of thumb when your incomes are different like yours are. My husband and I initially just both checked the Step 2(c) box thinking that would be enough, but we ended up owing about $600 because we didn't account for some other factors properly. The estimator will ask for your pay stubs, expected annual income, filing status (married filing jointly), and any deductions you plan to take. It then gives you specific instructions for each of your W-4 forms. Since you're planning to file jointly and have that 30% income difference, it's really worth the 15 minutes to get it right rather than guessing and potentially owing at tax time. Also, remember you can always adjust your W-4s mid-year if your situation changes or if you find you're withholding too much or too little based on your paychecks!
This is really helpful advice! I'm curious though - when you say you ended up owing $600 despite checking the Step 2(c) box, what were those "other factors" that caused the issue? My husband and I are in a similar boat (just got married in February) and I want to make sure we don't miss anything important when we use the estimator. Were there things like bonuses, different pay schedules, or tax credits that threw off the calculations?
Just want to add a data point - I had a similar issue and it turned out I wasn't eligible for APTC for one month due to having access to employer coverage that month (even though I didn't take it). The marketplace still paid APTC to my insurer but left Column B blank. When I called, they told me to use the SLCSP calculator tool to determine the correct amount for Column B, rather than leaving it as zero. Apparently a zero really isn't valid there on the 8962 form.
Did you have to pay back all the APTC for that month since you weren't eligible?
I had this exact same issue last year! Your tax software is correct to flag the $0 in Column B - it's actually not a valid entry on Form 8962 when you've received advance premium tax credits. Here's what's likely happening: The marketplace made an error on your 1095-A. Column B (SLCSP) is essential for calculating your premium tax credit eligibility, and it should never be blank or zero when you received APTC payments (Column C has a value). My recommendation is to use the SLCSP lookup tool on Healthcare.gov to find the correct amount for your zip code, family size, and coverage period for April. You'll need this information: your county, number of people covered, and their ages during that month. The tool will give you the official SLCSP amount that should have been in Column B. Once you have the correct SLCSP amount, enter it on your Form 8962 instead of the $0.01 workaround. This will give you an accurate premium tax credit calculation. You don't necessarily need to wait for a corrected 1095-A if you can verify the correct SLCSP amount yourself using the official tool. Just make sure to keep documentation of where you got the SLCSP figure in case the IRS has questions later.
This is really helpful advice! I'm dealing with a similar situation where my 1095-A has some questionable values. Quick question though - when you say to use the SLCSP lookup tool on Healthcare.gov, do you need to create an account or can you access it without logging in? Also, if the SLCSP amount I find is significantly different from what's on my 1095-A, should I be concerned about using a different number than what the marketplace provided?
Val Rossi
Word of warning from someone who's been there: Netspend held my tax refund for "verification" last year for 3 DAYS after my DDD! š¤ Called customer service daily and got different answers each time. Meanwhile I had bills due and was sweating bullets! They don't tell you about these potential holds when you sign up for the card. Might want to switch to a different prepaid card next year... unless you enjoy playing the "where's my money" game! š
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Jasmine Hancock
I'm actually going through the exact same situation right now! My WMR also shows "Refund Approved" with a DDD of 3/22, but my Netspend account is still showing zero. This is my second year using Netspend for my refund - last year it came exactly on the DDD around 10 AM, but I've heard from others that the timing can be inconsistent. I'm trying not to stress about it since we're still technically within the expected timeframe, but it's hard when you're counting on that money! Have you tried calling Netspend customer service? I'm debating whether it's worth the hold time or if I should just wait until after the weekend to see if it posts.
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Zainab Ali
ā¢I'm in the exact same boat! WMR showing approved with 3/22 DDD and nothing on my Netspend yet either. This is my first time using Netspend for a refund so I wasn't sure if this was normal or not. Reading through these comments it sounds like the timing can be all over the place - some people get it early, others a few days late. I think I'm going to wait until Monday before calling anyone since technically we're still within the expected window. At least we're not alone in this waiting game! š
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