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Ask the community...

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Justin Evans

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Have u considered adjusting your w4 for 2025 now so this doesn't happen again? My husband and I were in the same boat a few years ago ($16k owed!) and we did the "two earner worksheet" on the W4 and set an additional withholding amount. Fixed the problem completely. Also for this year's taxes, def check if you have any self-employed income that might qualify for SEP IRA like someone mentioned!

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Emily Parker

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The new W-4 doesn't have the two-earner worksheet anymore since they redesigned it in 2020. But there's a tax withholding estimator tool on the IRS website that basically does the same thing. I used it last year and it was pretty accurate!

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I was in almost the exact same situation two years ago - owed $11,500 and was absolutely panicking. Here's what actually helped me beyond what others have mentioned: 1. Double-check if you qualify for any educator expenses, unreimbursed employee expenses, or moving expenses if you relocated for work 2. Look into tax-loss harvesting if you have any investments - you can still sell losing positions and use those losses to offset gains 3. Check if you made any charitable contributions you forgot about - even small donations add up 4. Review your medical expenses carefully - sometimes dental work, glasses, or other health costs from 2024 can push you over the 7.5% AGI threshold for deductions The most important thing I learned: even if you can't reduce the full amount, file on time no matter what. The failure-to-file penalty is 5% per month vs only 0.5% per month for failure-to-pay. Set up a payment plan immediately after filing - the IRS is actually pretty reasonable about it and the online system makes it easy. Also, definitely use this as motivation to fix your withholdings for 2025! I increased mine by an extra $400/month and got a nice refund this year instead of owing.

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Axel Far

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Has anyone considered making extra charitable donations in alternate years to make itemizing worthwhile? My tax guy suggested we "bunch" our charitable giving - donate twice as much every other year so we can itemize in those years, then take standard deduction in the off years. Seems like a clever approach if you're right on the borderline.

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That's actually a really smart strategy! My wife and I started doing this last year. We contribute to a donor-advised fund in the years we itemize, then distribute from the fund to charities during our standard deduction years. Works especially well if you're close to the threshold.

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Nalani Liu

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This is such a common misconception! The mortgage interest deduction isn't automatically better than the standard deduction - it only helps if your total itemized deductions exceed the standard deduction threshold. Think of it this way: you're already getting a $29,200 deduction (if married filing jointly) without having to track any receipts or meet any requirements. Your $12,000 in mortgage interest would need to be combined with at least $17,200+ in other itemized deductions (state/local taxes, charitable donations, medical expenses over 7.5% of AGI) to beat that. The "tax benefit" you're getting is actually the standard deduction itself - it's just not tied to your mortgage. Don't feel like you're missing out on anything. The current tax system is designed so most people get a substantial deduction regardless of homeownership status. If you're really close to the threshold, double-check that you've entered all possible deductions like property taxes, PMI (if applicable), and any charitable contributions. But if the software says standard is better, it probably is!

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This is such a helpful explanation! I'm a new homeowner too and had the exact same confusion. I kept thinking "why did I buy a house if I can't even deduct the mortgage interest?" But you're right - I'm still getting that $14,600 standard deduction as a single filer, which is actually pretty substantial. It just took me a while to wrap my head around the idea that the tax benefit isn't necessarily tied to homeownership anymore. Thanks for breaking it down so clearly!

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This is a practical answer that I discovered after fighting with this exact situation: If you get your 1098-T and the amount doesn't match what you paid in December, you can still claim the credit based on your actual payment date. The 1098-T is not the final word. I had to write "See attached statement" on my tax return and include a simple explanation that I paid in December 2023 for classes starting January 2024, along with my payment receipt. My return was processed without any issues and I got my education credit. Just make sure you're eligible for the Lifetime Learning Credit in general (income limits, qualified institution, etc).

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Emma Wilson

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What software did you use to file? I use TurboTax and I'm not sure how to add an explanation like that.

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Based on everything discussed here, you should be able to claim the Lifetime Learning Credit for 2023. The key points that apply to your situation: 1. You paid in December 2023 for classes starting January 2024 - this qualifies under the "first three months of following year" rule 2. Being "enrolled" means you registered for classes, not that you had to be actively taking them in 2023 3. The credit is based on when you paid, not when classes started Wait for your 1098-T, but don't panic if it doesn't show your December payment - schools handle reporting differently. Keep your payment receipt from December 28th as your primary documentation. The LLC has income limits (phases out starting around $80k for single filers in 2023), so make sure you're eligible there too. But assuming your income qualifies, you should be good to claim up to $2,000 credit (20% of up to $10,000 in expenses) on your 2023 return. Don't overthink this one - your situation is pretty straightforward under the IRS rules, even though the language on their website can be confusing!

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Dananyl Lear

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Slightly off topic but make sure you're checking if your nephew should be filing at all. The standard deduction for single filers is $12,950 for 2022, so with only $6,400 in income, he's under the requirement to file if it's only W-2 wages. But he should STILL file to get his withholding back!

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The filing threshold for 2022 is actually $12,950 - but your point still stands. If taxes were withheld, filing is the only way to get that money back even if you're not required to file. Never leave that money with the government!

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Just wanted to add another perspective as someone who works at a tax preparation office. We handle minor tax returns regularly and the process is exactly as described - parent or legal guardian signs with "Parent of [child's name]" or "Guardian of [child's name]" for e-filing. One thing I always remind parents: make sure to keep a copy of the return and any supporting documents. Even though your nephew is a minor, this is still HIS tax return and he'll need these records if he ever gets audited or needs to reference his filing history for things like financial aid applications when he goes to college. Also, since this is his first job, it's a great opportunity to teach him about taxes! Have him sit with you while you prepare it so he understands the process. Many of our clients wish they'd learned this stuff earlier.

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This is such great advice about keeping records and involving him in the process! I wish someone had taught me about taxes when I was his age. Quick question though - when you say "keep a copy," do you mean we should print out the e-filed return, or is saving the PDF from TurboTax sufficient? Also, how long should we keep these records for a minor's return - is it the same 3-7 year rule that applies to adults?

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A PDF saved from TurboTax is absolutely sufficient - no need to print unless you prefer paper copies. The same record-keeping timeframe applies to minors: generally 3 years from the filing date, but 7 years if there's any chance of underreported income (which shouldn't be an issue with a simple W-2). Since this is his first return and likely straightforward, 3 years should be fine. Just make sure to save it somewhere he can access when he's older - maybe create a simple folder on a computer or cloud storage that he can take over when he turns 18. These early tax records can be helpful for establishing his filing history later on.

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Miguel Diaz

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This is such a common issue! I went through the exact same thing my first year freelancing. Your CPA's advice is spot on - you only need to report actual business income, not personal transfers from family and friends. Here's what helped me get organized: I exported all my Cash App transactions to a spreadsheet and created columns for "Business Income," "Business Expense," and "Personal." Then I went through line by line and categorized everything. It was tedious but gave me peace of mind. The key things to remember: - Gifts from family/friends are NOT taxable income to you - Money for splitting bills, rent help, etc. are personal transfers, not income - Only payments for goods/services you provided count as business income - Keep notes explaining each transaction in case of questions later You're already doing the right thing by separating accounts going forward. For this year's filing, just be thorough with your categorization and keep good records. The IRS understands that people use these apps for both personal and business - they just want to see that you're reporting your actual business income correctly.

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I went through this exact same situation last year and wanted to share what worked for me. The mixed personal/business transactions in Cash App were giving me major anxiety, but it turned out to be much more manageable than I thought. Here's my step-by-step approach that might help: 1. Export your entire Cash App transaction history to CSV 2. Create a simple spreadsheet with columns for Date, Amount, Description, and Category 3. Go through each transaction and mark it as either "Business Income," "Business Expense," or "Personal" 4. For business transactions, add a note about what service/product was provided 5. Calculate your total business income and expenses separately The personal stuff (family gifts, splitting dinner bills, rent help) doesn't affect your taxes at all - the IRS only cares about money you earned through business activities. Your CPA was right that it's straightforward, but I totally understand the stress of making sure you get it right. One thing that helped me was printing out the final categorized list and highlighting all the business income entries. Having it on paper made it feel more official when I handed it to my accountant. Also, keep all those records! I put everything in a folder labeled "2023 Tax Backup" just in case. The peace of mind is worth it. You've got this - the hardest part is just sitting down and going through everything methodically.

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This is exactly the kind of detailed breakdown I needed to see! I've been putting off dealing with my Cash App mess because it felt so overwhelming, but your step-by-step approach makes it seem actually doable. The idea of printing out the final list and highlighting business entries is brilliant - I'm definitely going to do that. There's something about having physical documentation that makes me feel more confident about my record-keeping. Quick question though - when you exported to CSV, did you have any issues with Cash App's export format? I tried once and some of the transaction descriptions got cut off, which made it harder to remember what each payment was for.

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