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This is such a frustrating situation - I went through something similar last month! The disconnect between the SBTG phone system and website is maddening. In my case, the phone line said "payment sent" for almost 4 days while the website kept showing $0.00. What finally helped me was logging into my IRS online account and checking my tax transcript directly. Look for code 846 on there - that's the actual refund issue date, which is way more reliable than either SBTG system. Also, make sure to check with your bank about any holds they might place on government deposits. My credit union held mine for 24 hours even though it was a direct deposit. The whole system feels like it's held together with digital duct tape, but the money usually does show up eventually. Hang in there!

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Thank you for mentioning the transcript code 846 - that's exactly what I needed to hear! I just checked my IRS online account and found the 846 code with today's date, so it looks like the payment really was issued. My bank said they don't typically hold government deposits, but I'll keep checking throughout the week. It's reassuring to know this system confusion is common and usually resolves itself. Really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences here - makes the waiting much less stressful when you know others have been through the same thing!

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I'm going through this exact same thing right now! Called SBTG this morning and got the "payment sent to financial institution" message, but their website is showing funded status with $0.00 amount. It's so confusing when the systems don't match up. Based on what everyone's saying here about checking the IRS transcript for code 846, I'm going to log into my IRS account and look for that. Has anyone noticed if there's a pattern to when these payments typically hit accounts - like do they usually come through overnight or during business hours? I'm with a smaller regional bank so I'm wondering if that affects processing times compared to the big national banks.

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Anybody know if there's a minimum amount you need to keep in your 401k after rolling money in? My company plan says I need at least $5000 or they can cash me out. Would this apply to rolled-over IRA funds too?

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This varies by 401k plan, so you'll need to check your specific plan documents. Most plans that have minimum balance requirements apply those rules to all money in the plan, including rollovers. The $5,000 threshold is pretty common. However, they typically can't "cash you out" of rollover funds the same way they might with small employer contribution balances. Instead, if your balance falls below their minimum, they might roll it to an IRA automatically rather than sending you a check. If you're actively employed and making contributions through payroll, you'll likely stay above any minimum threshold naturally as your contributions come in.

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Nia Jackson

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The IRA-to-401k rollover strategy you're considering is actually the cleanest way to handle your mixed pre/post-tax situation. Here's what I'd recommend: First, contact your IRA custodian and request a detailed breakdown of your account showing your "basis" (the $4,000 in post-tax contributions) versus the pre-tax portions. They should be able to provide this, and you'll also want to gather any Form 8606s you filed in previous years. For the rollover itself, you can absolutely do a partial rollover of just the pre-tax portions to your 401k. When you contact your custodian, ask specifically for a "direct trustee-to-trustee transfer" of the pre-tax funds only. They'll handle the calculations based on the pro-rata rule. After moving the pre-tax money to your 401k, you'll be left with mostly your post-tax contributions in the traditional IRA. You can then convert this remaining balance to Roth with minimal tax consequences, effectively completing a backdoor Roth conversion and clearing the way for clean backdoor conversions in future years. The key forms you'll need: Form 8606 to track your non-deductible contributions, and your custodian will issue a 1099-R for the rollover (which won't be taxable since it's going to another pre-tax account). This approach saves you from paying double tax on your post-tax contributions while solving your backdoor Roth problem going forward. Much better than just rolling everything and eating the unnecessary tax hit!

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Dylan Cooper

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Did anyone actually tell you it was an IRA distribution? Because it makes a huge difference if it was a regular inherited IRA vs. a beneficiary IRA that was set up after the grandparent's death. Each has different tax consequences and requirements.

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This is a really important point! When my father passed, I initially thought I was just getting a regular inheritance check, but it was actually a distribution from his 401k that hadn't been properly set up as a beneficiary account. Cost me thousands in unnecessary taxes because I didn't understand the distinction.

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Just wanted to add some perspective from someone who works in estate administration. The tax withholding you're seeing is actually required by law in many cases - financial institutions are obligated to withhold taxes on IRA distributions unless the beneficiary specifically elects out of withholding (which most people don't know they can do). The 12.5% withholding rate suggests this was likely a traditional IRA. However, depending on your combined income and tax bracket, you might still owe additional taxes beyond what was withheld, or you might get some back as a refund. The key is that this gets reconciled when you file your 2025 return. One thing to consider: if there are multiple distributions planned from the estate, you might want to consult with a tax professional about timing and tax planning strategies. Sometimes spreading distributions across tax years can help minimize the overall tax burden, especially if it keeps you out of higher tax brackets.

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Yuki Tanaka

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This is really helpful information, especially about being able to elect out of withholding! I had no idea that was even an option. For someone in my situation who might be in a lower tax bracket this year, would it make sense to elect out of withholding on future distributions to avoid giving the government an interest-free loan? Or is it generally safer to just let them withhold and get a refund later?

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This is such a frustrating situation but unfortunately very common in the restaurant industry. What you're describing - scheduled shifts, wearing their uniform, manager setting your schedule - these are all clear indicators that you're an employee, not an independent contractor. The key difference is control. As an employee, your employer controls when, where, and how you work. Independent contractors have more autonomy over their work methods and schedules. From your description, you're definitely being treated as an employee. Here's what I'd recommend: First, try the gentle approach with your employer. Many small business owners genuinely don't understand the classification rules. If that doesn't work, you can file Form SS-8 to get an official IRS determination, though be aware this can take months and might create tension with your employer. In the meantime, if you have to file with the 1099-NEC, make sure you're claiming all possible business expenses to reduce your tax burden. And remember, even if classified as self-employed, you likely won't owe taxes on your $8,400 earnings since the standard deduction for 2024 is $14,600. The main concern would be the self-employment tax portion. Don't let this stress you out too much - there are solutions, and you have rights as a worker!

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Thank you so much for this comprehensive breakdown! You really helped clarify the situation for me. I'm feeling a lot less panicked now knowing that I probably won't owe income tax on my earnings due to the standard deduction - I had no idea about that part. The point about control vs autonomy really resonates. My boss literally tells me exactly when to clock in, what tasks to do each shift, and even how to interact with customers. There's no way I could be considered independent when I have zero control over any aspect of the work. I think I'll start with the gentle approach like you suggested. Maybe I'll frame it as "I'm confused about my tax forms and want to make sure we're both doing everything correctly" rather than accusing them of anything. If that doesn't work, at least now I know about the SS-8 option and understand the potential consequences. This whole thread has been incredibly helpful - I went from completely freaking out to actually having a plan. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences and advice!

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QuantumQueen

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I'm glad to see so many helpful responses here! As someone who works in tax preparation, I want to emphasize a few key points for Mason and anyone else dealing with this situation. The IRS uses a "20-factor test" to determine worker classification, and from what you've described, you clearly meet the employee criteria. The most important factors in your case are: your employer sets your schedule, provides training on procedures, requires you to work on their premises, and you're integrated into their business operations. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is that misclassified employees can actually recover back taxes they shouldn't have paid. If you end up filing as self-employed this year but later get reclassified as an employee, you can file Form 8919 to get credit for the employer portion of Social Security and Medicare taxes you overpaid. Also, for your immediate tax filing needs: most free tax software (like IRS Free File) can handle 1099-NEC forms and will automatically calculate your self-employment tax. Don't let the complexity scare you - the software walks you through everything step by step. Keep all documentation about your work arrangement (schedules, uniform requirements, any written policies) in case you need them for the SS-8 process. And remember, you're not doing anything wrong by ensuring proper tax classification - you're just following the law.

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Miguel Diaz

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This is exactly the kind of detailed, professional advice I was hoping to find! The 20-factor test you mentioned sounds really helpful - is there somewhere I can look that up to see how my situation measures against all the criteria? I'm particularly interested in what you said about potentially recovering back taxes through Form 8919. So if I file as self-employed this year but the IRS later determines I should have been classified as an employee, I could actually get money back? That would be huge since I'm already stressed about affording the self-employment taxes. Also, thank you for the reassurance about using free tax software. I was worried I'd need to pay for professional help to handle the 1099-NEC, but knowing that the free programs can walk me through it makes this much more manageable financially. One quick question - when you say to keep documentation, should I be documenting things going forward too, or just gathering what I already have? Like, should I start saving my weekly schedules or anything like that?

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Hannah White

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One thing nobody mentioned yet - track your hot bags, coolers, and any other special equipment you buy for deliveries! I spent about $85 on premium insulated bags and a drink carrier that I use exclusively for DoorDash and was able to deduct the full amount. Also car chargers, phone mounts, etc. Small stuff adds up!

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Thanks for mentioning this! I actually have bought some decent equipment - two insulated bags (around $45 total), a cup holder organizer ($20), and one of those phone mounts that clip to the air vent ($15). I didn't even think about deducting those. I'll definitely keep the receipts for all that stuff now!

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Ravi Sharma

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Great thread everyone! As someone who's been doing gig work for a few years now, I wanted to add that you should also consider deducting any car maintenance that's directly related to your delivery work. Things like oil changes, tire rotations, and brake pad replacements can be partially deductible based on the percentage of miles you drive for business versus personal use. For example, if 40% of your annual mileage is for DoorDash, you can potentially deduct 40% of those maintenance costs. Just make sure you're keeping detailed records - I use a simple spreadsheet to track my business miles versus total miles each month. Also, if you choose to deduct actual car expenses instead of using the standard mileage rate, you can't switch back and forth - you have to pick one method and stick with it for that vehicle. The key with all these deductions is documentation. Take photos of receipts, keep a mileage log, and when in doubt, consult with a tax professional who understands gig economy work!

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