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Don't forget to consider state taxes too, not just federal! I paid off my federal taxes from my old LLC but completely overlooked the state tax debt. When I went to register my new LLC, I discovered my state (California) wouldn't let me form a new business entity until I cleared the old tax debt with the state franchise tax board. Had to delay my launch by 2 months while dealing with that mess. Different states have different rules, so check your specific state's requirements before spending money on new LLC formation.
Wow, that's a really important point I hadn't even considered. I'm in Texas for my businesses, but I'll definitely look into any state-specific requirements. Did you have to completely pay off your state taxes or were you able to set up a payment plan to allow the new LLC formation?
In California, I had to either pay in full or get on an approved payment plan before they would allow the new registration. I ended up paying in full because it was about $3,200 and I just wanted it done with. But I know other states can be more flexible. Texas is generally more business-friendly than California (who isn't, right?), but definitely check with the Texas Comptroller's office. From what I understand, Texas doesn't have the same strict franchise tax block on new formations that California does, but policies change all the time. Better to know before you spend money on filing fees and get denied.
This is such a common situation for entrepreneurs trying to get back on their feet! I went through something similar when my consulting LLC failed in 2022 and I owed about $8,500 in back taxes. The good news is that you absolutely can form a new LLC while owing taxes from your old one - the IRS doesn't block business formation. However, you need to be strategic about it. The key things I learned: 1. Set up your new LLC properly with completely separate finances - different bank, different EIN, clear documentation of startup capital 2. Address the old debt proactively rather than ignoring it - even a basic installment agreement shows good faith 3. Keep detailed records showing the two businesses are completely separate entities I ended up calling the IRS (after many failed attempts) to set up a payment plan for the old debt before launching my new business. It gave me peace of mind and prevented any collection actions that could have interfered with getting business banking or credit for the new venture. The worst thing you can do is try to hide from the old debt - it won't go away and could create bigger problems down the road. But don't let it stop you from pursuing your new business opportunity either!
This is really helpful advice! I'm curious about the timeline - how long did it take you to get your payment plan set up with the IRS? I'm eager to move forward with my new business idea but want to make sure I handle the old debt properly first. Also, did having the payment plan in place help when you applied for business banking with your new LLC?
I've been through a similar CP2000 nightmare and want to share what worked for me. First, definitely try calling for an extension like others mentioned - I got 60 extra days just by explaining I needed more time to gather documentation. But if you can't get through or they deny the extension, here's what saved me: I sent a detailed response letter with partial agreement, paying only the portion I absolutely knew was correct (about 40% of their revised amount). In the letter, I clearly stated "I disagree with the following adjustments" and listed each disputed item with supporting documentation. The key is being very specific about what you agree with versus what you're disputing. Don't just say "I disagree with the assessment" - break it down line by line. This shows the IRS exactly where to focus their review and demonstrates you're not just stalling. I also sent everything certified mail with return receipt to prove they received it before the deadline. Three months later, they sent me a revised notice that was actually $800 in my favor! The whole process took about 6 months total, but I avoided paying money I didn't owe and didn't have to deal with amended returns later. The deposit option mentioned by Aisha is also brilliant - wish I had known about IRC 6603 deposits when I was dealing with mine!
This is exactly the kind of detailed advice I was hoping for! The line-by-line breakdown approach makes so much sense - I've been thinking about this too generally instead of being specific about each disputed item. Quick question: when you sent your partial payment, did you include it with the same mailing as your response letter, or send the payment separately? I'm worried about them processing the payment but not properly noting my disputes if everything arrives together. Also, do you remember roughly how long it took them to cash your partial payment check? I'm trying to get a sense of their processing timeline since I'm cutting it close to the deadline.
Great question about the payment and letter! I sent everything together in one package - the response letter, supporting documentation, and the check. The key is to reference the check amount and purpose clearly in your letter so they can't process one without the other. In my case, they cashed the partial payment check about 10 days after I sent it (I could track this through my bank), but it took them almost 3 weeks to actually update my account to show they'd received my dispute documentation. That's why certified mail with return receipt is so important - it proves they got everything by your deadline even if their internal processing is slow. One tip: make a copy of the check before you send it, and write "PARTIAL PAYMENT - SEE ATTACHED CORRESPONDENCE" in the memo line. This creates a paper trail linking your payment to your dispute letter. Also include a cover letter that specifically states "This partial payment of $X represents agreement with adjustments A, B, and C only. I dispute adjustments D, E, and F as detailed in the attached response." The IRS systems are designed to handle partial agreements, so don't worry about them getting confused. Just be crystal clear about what the payment covers versus what you're still disputing.
Based on everyone's advice here, I think I'm going to try a combination approach. First, I'll call tomorrow morning to request an extension using that Claimyr service since several people had success with it - even Nia who was initially skeptical came back to say it worked. If I can get the extension, perfect - that buys me time to properly dispute everything. But if not, I'm going to send a partial agreement letter with an IRC 6603 deposit for the portion I know is definitely correct (probably around $3,000-4,000 of the $7,000). This way I stop penalties and interest on most of it while preserving maximum flexibility to recover anything I shouldn't owe. I really appreciate the specific advice about being line-by-line in the dispute and using certified mail. The memo line tip about writing "PARTIAL PAYMENT - SEE ATTACHED CORRESPONDENCE" is exactly the kind of detail I needed to know. One last question - has anyone here actually used the IRC 6603 deposit option successfully? I want to make sure I get the language exactly right in my letter since this seems like the safest approach given my tight timeline.
I haven't personally used the IRC 6603 deposit option, but I've seen it work well for others in similar situations. The key language you want to include in your letter is something like: "Enclosed is a deposit of $X,XXX made pursuant to IRC Section 6603. This deposit is being made to stop the accrual of interest and penalties on the disputed assessment while I continue to challenge the remaining adjustments through proper administrative channels." Make sure to also state clearly: "This deposit does not constitute agreement with the IRS's position and I reserve all rights to dispute the underlying assessment." On your check, write "IRC 6603 DEPOSIT" in the memo line. Your combination approach sounds smart - trying for the extension first gives you the best outcome, but having the deposit strategy as a backup protects you if the extension doesn't work out. Just make sure whichever route you take, you send everything certified mail well before your deadline. Good luck!
Just a quick tip from someone who's been in financial services for 20+ years - check if these accounts have automated dividend reinvestment plans (DRIPs). When dividends are automatically reinvested, the cost basis often equals proceeds because the purchase price equals the sale price at that exact moment. If the account is high value ($1M+) and has been running on autopilot with DRIP for years, you can absolutely get these massive matching numbers. The tiny fractional differences might not even show up due to rounding on the 1099-B.
Thank you, this is actually really helpful! Many of our clients do use DRIPs, and I hadn't considered how that might impact the reporting. I'll check their account settings tomorrow. Do you know if there's any specific section on the 1099-B that would indicate DRIP transactions versus normal sales?
Most 1099-Bs won't specifically label them as DRIP transactions - they'll just appear as regular buys and sells. However, you can usually identify them by looking for very specific patterns: transactions on dividend payment dates, odd/fractional share amounts, and identical trade dates for both purchase and sale. Sometimes there will be a transaction code or a notes field with an indicator like "DRIP" or "DIV REINV" but this varies widely by brokerage. Your best bet is to pull the transaction history report alongside the 1099-B and look for these patterns, especially focusing on dividend payment dates for the securities in question.
This is a great discussion with lots of helpful insights! I'm seeing similar patterns with some of our clients and wanted to add one more scenario I've encountered recently. Sometimes matching proceeds and cost basis can result from mutual fund exchanges within the same fund family. When clients do tax-free exchanges between funds (like moving from a growth fund to a value fund within the same company), the basis often transfers directly, resulting in identical numbers on the 1099-B. Also, for anyone dealing with these complex situations regularly, I'd recommend keeping a detailed spreadsheet tracking which clients have these matching figures and the eventual explanations. It's helped me identify patterns - for instance, I noticed that three clients with matching basis/proceeds all had the same financial advisor who was implementing a specific tax-loss harvesting strategy. The key is definitely not to panic when you see these numbers. There are legitimate reasons, but it's always worth investigating to make sure you're handling the tax implications correctly for your clients.
This is incredibly helpful, thank you! The mutual fund exchange scenario makes a lot of sense and I bet that's what's happening with at least one of my clients. I love the idea about keeping a tracking spreadsheet - I'm definitely going to start doing that. One question though - when you mention tax-free exchanges between fund families, are those reported as separate buy/sell transactions on the 1099-B, or do they show up as a single exchange transaction? I want to make sure I'm interpreting the documents correctly when I see these patterns. Also, has anyone found that certain brokerages are better than others at providing clear documentation for these types of transactions? Some of our clients' statements are much clearer than others about what actually happened.
Just wanted to add another perspective here - I work as a tax preparer and see wash sale confusion constantly during tax season. The key thing to remember is that wash sales don't increase your taxes, they just defer losses to future years. In your case with the $55,786.95 net gain, that's exactly what you'll report on Schedule D. The $373,152.71 in disallowed wash sale losses aren't "lost forever" - they've been added to the cost basis of your replacement shares. When you eventually sell those shares (without triggering another wash sale), you'll get to use those deferred losses. One tip: if you're an active trader, consider using specific identification for your lots rather than FIFO. This gives you more control over which shares you're selling and can help minimize unintended wash sales. You can usually change this setting in your brokerage account preferences. Your 1099-B is correct as presented - just use that net gain figure and you're good to go!
@Lucas Bey, this is exactly the kind of professional insight I was hoping to find! So just to confirm - when I eventually sell those replacement shares that have the adjusted cost basis, those previously disallowed losses will finally be recognized and help offset any gains? And regarding the specific identification vs FIFO question that @Carlos Mendoza asked - I m'curious about this too. I do quite a bit of trading and if there s'a way to minimize accidental wash sales through lot selection, that would be incredibly helpful. Could you elaborate on how specific identification works in practice?
@Lucas Bey Absolutely! When you sell those replacement shares, the previously disallowed losses become part of your cost basis, which means they ll'reduce your taxable gain or (increase your deductible loss at) that time. Regarding specific identification vs FIFO - FIFO First (In, First Out automatically) sells your oldest shares first. Specific identification lets you choose exactly which lots/shares to sell. This is huge for tax planning! For example, say you bought ABC stock on Jan 1st at $100/share and again on Feb 1st at $120/share. If ABC is now trading at $110 and you want to sell some shares: - FIFO would sell the Jan 1st shares creating (a $10/share gain -) Specific ID lets you sell the Feb 1st shares creating (a $10/share loss This) control helps you avoid wash sales by ensuring you re'not inadvertently selling at a loss when you have recent purchases of the same security. Most brokerages let you change this setting online or by calling them. @Carlos Mendoza @Anastasia Romanov Hope this helps clarify both concepts!
I went through a very similar situation last year with even larger wash sale amounts and completely panicked thinking I owed way more in taxes than expected. After reading through all the helpful responses here, I can confirm what everyone is saying is correct. The key insight that finally clicked for me was understanding that wash sales don't create additional taxable income - they just defer losses to future tax years. Your brokerage has already done all the complex math to arrive at that net gain figure of $55,786.95, which includes all the wash sale adjustments. One additional tip I learned the hard way: if you're planning to do any tax-loss harvesting near year-end, be very careful about the 30-day wash sale window extending into the new year. I accidentally triggered some wash sales in early January that affected my prior year's return, and I didn't realize it until I was already filing. Also, definitely keep detailed records of all your trades. The IRS explanations are confusing, but having a paper trail makes everything much clearer if you ever need to review the calculations or face an audit. Your $55,786.95 net gain is what you'll report on Schedule D - that's it!
Thanks for sharing your experience @Luca Bianchi! This whole thread has been incredibly helpful. I was getting really stressed thinking I might owe taxes on both the net gain AND somehow need to account for that $373k wash sale amount separately. Your point about the 30-day window extending into the new year is something I hadn't considered. I do some trading in December/January so I'll definitely need to be more careful about that timing. One quick follow-up question for anyone who might know - if I had wash sales that crossed over from December to January, would those show up on this year's 1099 or next year's? I'm wondering if I need to double-check anything for potential cross-year wash sale issues. But the main takeaway I'm getting is: report the $55,786.95 net gain on Schedule D and I'm done. The wash sale complexity has already been handled by my brokerage. Such a relief!
Talia Klein
Wait I'm confused about something. If I'm a substitute teacher working directly for a school district, wouldn't I be a W-2 employee not a 1099 contractor? I subbed last year and got a W-2.
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Maxwell St. Laurent
ā¢It depends on how the school district classifies you. Most public school districts treat subs as W-2 employees, but some private schools or tutoring companies might classify you as an independent contractor (1099). The classification isn't just about what they decide to call you - it's based on factors like how much control they have over your work. If they're controlling when, where and how you work, providing training, tools, etc., you SHOULD be classified as an employee regardless of what they call you.
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Margot Quinn
Great question! As others have mentioned, you should receive a 1099-NEC from the learning center if they paid you $600 or more. But here's something important to keep in mind - the classification itself matters a lot. If the learning center was controlling your schedule, providing lesson plans, telling you exactly how to teach, or treating you like other employees, you might have been misclassified. True independent contractors have more control over how they do their work. This is especially common in education where companies try to avoid paying employment taxes and benefits. If you believe you were misclassified, you can file Form SS-8 with the IRS to get an official determination, or Form 8919 when you file your taxes to pay only the employee portion of Social Security and Medicare taxes instead of the full self-employment tax. This could save you money since self-employment tax is about 15.3% versus 7.65% for employees (the employer pays the other half). Just something to consider as you're navigating this for the first time!
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Aisha Patel
ā¢This is really eye-opening! I had no idea about the misclassification issue. Looking back, the learning center did give me specific curricula to follow and set my schedule pretty rigidly. They also required me to attend training sessions. That sounds more like employee treatment than independent contractor, right? How do I know if it's worth pursuing the SS-8 form? Is there a downside to challenging their classification, especially if I might want to work with them again in the future?
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