Has anyone used TurboTax for handling this situation? I'm trying to figure out if it can properly account for partial city tax based on days worked remotely vs. in office.

I went through this exact situation last year and it was such a headache! My city initially told me I still owed the full tax, but after digging deeper I found out they have a "days worked" calculation method. You'll need to keep detailed records of which days you worked from home vs. in the office. I created a simple spreadsheet tracking this throughout the year. When I filed, I was able to reduce my city tax by about 85% since I only went into the office maybe 2-3 times per month. The key is being proactive about documentation. Don't wait until tax time to start tracking this - start now for next year. Also, check if your city has issued any specific guidance about remote work policies. Many cities updated their rules during 2020-2021 but haven't been great about publicizing the changes. One tip: if you're unsure, it might be worth paying a local tax professional for a consultation. The money you save could easily pay for their fee, especially if you've been overpaying for multiple years.

Has anyone used one of those DIY cost segregation software programs? I've seen a few advertised that supposedly let you do your own study for a few hundred bucks. Wondering if those are legitimate or just asking for trouble.

I was in a similar situation with my rental duplex last year. My CPA initially suggested the case law approach, but after reading all these responses, I decided to go with a hybrid solution and used the taxr.ai service that Ella mentioned. What really sold me was that it gave me professional-level documentation without the full engineering study cost. The report they generated was detailed enough that my CPA was comfortable filing it, and it included specific references to the methodology they used for categorizing different property components. For your $875K property, you're probably looking at significant potential savings. I'd suggest at least getting a quote from taxr.ai to compare against what a full engineering study would cost. In my case, the additional first-year deductions more than paid for the service cost, and I feel much more confident about audit defense than I would have with just the case law approach. The peace of mind was worth it for me - especially since rental property depreciation can be scrutinized more closely by the IRS.

Just want to add something important that others haven't mentioned - when calculating the financial impact of moving closer to work, don't forget to factor in your TIME value! I moved from a 45 min commute to a 10 min commute last year, and even though my housing costs went up by about $400/month, I got back 11-12 hours of my life every week! That's like gaining a part-time job's worth of hours. I calculated my hourly rate at work ($34/hr) and multiplied by the hours saved, and realized I was "earning" about $1,500/month in time value alone. Plus the stress reduction and extra family time are honestly priceless. Just something else to consider beyond the pure vehicle costs!

Great question about the mileage calculation! I've been through this exact analysis myself. One thing that might help clarify your thinking - the IRS standard mileage rate isn't really meant for personal financial decisions like yours. It's designed as a simplified tax deduction method that covers "average" vehicle costs. For your moving decision, I'd recommend creating your own cost-per-mile calculation specific to your Jeep. Here's what worked for me: **Fixed costs per mile:** Take your annual insurance, registration, and depreciation, divide by total miles driven per year. **Variable costs per mile:** Track your actual fuel, maintenance, and repairs over several months, then calculate the per-mile rate. With your Jeep's 15 MPG, your fuel costs alone are probably around 20-25 cents per mile (depending on gas prices), compared to maybe 15 cents for the "average" vehicle the IRS uses. I ended up finding that my actual vehicle costs were about 15% higher than the IRS rate, which significantly impacted my cost-benefit analysis for relocating. The key is using YOUR vehicle's real numbers rather than the government's average. Don't forget to factor in the non-financial benefits too - shorter commute time has real value!

Has anyone here actually gone through the process of transferring an Inherited Roth IRA? I inherited one from my mom last year and the financial institution was really particular about the account title format. They said it needed to be titled "Jane Smith (deceased 12/15/2023) Roth IRA FBO John Smith, Beneficiary" or something like that. Just wondering if all institutions have the same requirements for Inherited Roth IRAs or if there's variation? Also, did you have to provide a death certificate and other paperwork?

I'm sorry for your loss, Abigail. Dealing with inherited retirement accounts while grieving is never easy. Based on what you've shared, there are actually some important details that could significantly impact which rules apply to your situation. Since you mentioned your brother was 42 and you're his sister, and the account was established before 2020, you might qualify as an "eligible designated beneficiary" under the SECURE Act if you're within 10 years of his age. This is crucial because eligible designated beneficiaries can choose between the 10-year rule OR taking distributions based on life expectancy, which could be much more advantageous for a Roth IRA since it allows for more tax-free growth over time. Given the conflicting information you're getting from the financial institution, I'd strongly recommend getting definitive guidance directly from the IRS or a qualified tax professional who specializes in inherited retirement accounts. The difference between these two options could have significant long-term financial implications. You'll also want to confirm when your brother first opened ANY Roth IRA (not just this account) to determine if the 5-year rule for tax-free distributions has been satisfied. The financial institution should have this information in their records. Don't feel pressured to make any hasty decisions - you have time to get the right information and choose the most beneficial distribution strategy for your situation.

Has anyone here actually received a whistleblower award from the IRS? I've heard they can be substantial (like 15-30% of what's collected) but also that they take FOREVER and most reports don't result in any award. Just wondering if the potential reward is worth the risk and hassle.

I went through this exact situation about 6 months ago and can share some practical advice. The IRS does protect whistleblower identities, but you're absolutely right to be concerned about indirect identification. Here's what I learned: First, consider what evidence you have and whether it could realistically only come from you. If you're the only person who would know specific details (like personal conversations, private documents you had access to, etc.), then your identity might be deducible even if the IRS doesn't reveal it directly. Second, document everything but be strategic about what you submit. Focus on evidence that multiple people could theoretically access - public records, business filings, things visible to customers/clients, etc. Avoid including private communications or insider knowledge that screams "this came from [your name]." The timing issue others mentioned is real. If you recently had a falling out with this person or left their employment, an IRS investigation starting immediately after could be a dead giveaway. Consider waiting a reasonable period if the fraud isn't actively ongoing. Finally, definitely consult with a tax attorney who handles whistleblower cases. They can help you structure your report to maximize protection while still being effective. Many work on contingency for whistleblower cases, so you don't necessarily need upfront costs. The process is slow and there's no guarantee of an award, but if someone is genuinely defrauding the government, reporting it is often the right thing to do - just be smart about protecting yourself.