Another option to consider - I found my S Corp accountant through the Enrolled Agent directory on the NAEA website. Many EAs specialize in small business and S Corps and are much more affordable than larger CPA firms. Plus they're licensed by the IRS and can represent you in case of audit. Most now work virtually so location doesn't matter. Mine is in a different state but handles everything perfectly through secure document sharing. Way better service than I ever got from retail tax chains.

As someone who went through this exact transition last year when my longtime CPA retired, I'd recommend being very cautious with H&R Block for S Corp work. Their retail locations often lack the specialized knowledge needed for proper S Corp tax preparation. I initially tried their Small Business Services (which is separate from their retail offices) and while the preparer was more knowledgeable than the seasonal staff, they still made some concerning errors with my reasonable compensation calculations that I caught during review. What worked for me was using the IRS's "Find a Tax Professional" tool on their website - you can filter specifically for Enrolled Agents and CPAs who work with S Corps. I found three candidates in my price range within a week, all willing to work remotely. The EA I ultimately chose has been fantastic and actually costs less than what H&R Block quoted me. My advice: get quotes from both H&R Block's business division AND a few independent professionals before deciding. Don't let the big name fool you into thinking they're automatically better - often the opposite is true for specialized work like S Corp returns.

You raise an excellent point about participation requirements! Generally, there aren't strict minimum participation thresholds for these types of voluntary employee benefits like dental membership plans. The key is that you offer it to all eligible employees in a non-discriminatory way - you can't pick and choose who gets access based on favoritism. What matters most is having a written policy that clearly defines eligibility (like "all full-time employees" or "employees with 90+ days tenure") and offering it consistently to everyone who meets those criteria. If some employees choose not to participate, that's their decision and doesn't invalidate the business expense deduction for those who do participate. However, you do want to be careful about creating benefit plans that disproportionately favor highly compensated employees or owners. As long as your eligibility criteria are based on legitimate business factors and you're not structuring it in a way that primarily benefits yourself or key executives, you should be fine even with lower participation rates. Document everything - the plan details, eligibility requirements, and communications to employees about the benefit. This shows the IRS that it's a legitimate employee benefit program rather than disguised compensation to select individuals.

I've been through this exact situation with my small marketing agency. The $350 per employee for dental membership plans is absolutely deductible as a business expense under Section 162, and it's actually a smart financial move compared to salary increases. One thing I'd add to the great advice already given - make sure you get a clear breakdown from the dental office about what's included in that $350. Some plans cover preventive care at 100% but only offer discounts on major work, while others might have different structures. This affects how valuable the benefit actually is to your employees and helps justify the business expense. Also, consider asking the dental office if they provide any reporting or documentation specifically for business clients. When I set ours up, they gave me quarterly reports showing utilization rates and savings per employee, which has been helpful for both tax documentation and demonstrating ROI when it comes time to renew. The fact that you're thinking about this proactively shows you care about your employees' wellbeing while being smart about business expenses. That's exactly the kind of ordinary and necessary business expense the IRS expects to see deducted.

Great question and really timely for me too! I just went through this exact scenario moving some Bitcoin from Fidelity to Robinhood last month. The key thing everyone's mentioned is absolutely right - Robinhood will NOT receive your cost basis automatically. When the crypto arrives in your Robinhood account, it will just show the current market value as if you bought it that day, which is completely wrong for tax purposes. Here's my step-by-step process that worked well: 1. Before transferring, export ALL transaction history from Fidelity (CSV format if possible) 2. Screenshot your current holdings showing original purchase dates and amounts 3. Document the exact amount you're transferring and the date 4. Save the blockchain transaction hash when the transfer completes 5. Create a simple spreadsheet linking your original Fidelity purchases to your new Robinhood holdings One thing I learned the hard way - Fidelity's transaction history doesn't stay available forever after you close positions, so grab those records while you still can access them easily. I use a simple Google Sheet with columns for Date, Platform, Amount, Price Paid, Transaction Hash, and Notes. The good news is that crypto-to-crypto transfers aren't taxable events, so you won't owe anything just for moving between platforms. But you definitely need that original cost basis info for when you eventually sell on Robinhood.

As someone who's been through multiple crypto transfers between platforms, I can't stress enough how important it is to keep meticulous records BEFORE you initiate any transfer. I learned this lesson the hard way when I moved some Ethereum from Coinbase to Fidelity a couple years ago without proper documentation. Here's what I wish I had done from the start: 1. **Export everything immediately** - Don't wait until after the transfer. Get your complete transaction history from Fidelity right now in CSV format. Include purchase dates, amounts, fees, and any DCA transactions. 2. **Use blockchain explorers** - Tools like Etherscan (for Ethereum) or Blockchain.info (for Bitcoin) can help you verify transfer details and provide permanent records of the transaction hashes. 3. **Consider tax software early** - Even if you don't plan to sell soon, setting up with something like TaxBit or CoinTracker now can save you major headaches later. They can import your data and track cost basis automatically. 4. **Document your method** - Write down whether you're using FIFO, LIFO, or specific identification for your cost basis calculations. Be consistent and stick with it. The transfer itself won't trigger taxes, but when you eventually sell on Robinhood, you'll need to report the gains/losses based on your original Fidelity purchase prices, not what Robinhood shows as your "cost basis." Trust me, spending an hour organizing this now will save you days of stress during tax season!

Has anyone used H&R Block instead of TurboTax for this? I'm wondering if one handles these 409A adjustments better than the other.

I just went through this exact same situation with my RSU sales from last year! The confusion around adjustment codes is so real. What helped me was understanding that the key is avoiding double taxation - since the income from your stock compensation was already reported on your W-2, you need to adjust your basis on the 1099-B to reflect that. For most RSU situations like yours, you'll likely use adjustment code "B" as others mentioned. But here's a tip that saved me a lot of time: before you finalize anything in TurboTax, print out or save a PDF of your tax return and review the Schedule D to make sure your gains/losses look reasonable. If you see huge gains that don't match what you expected, you probably need to double-check your adjustment amounts. Also, if you have any ESPP transactions mixed in with your RSUs, those might need different codes depending on whether they were qualifying or disqualifying dispositions. The supplemental documents that ApolloJackson mentioned are golden for this - definitely hunt those down if you haven't already!

I'm dealing with a Form 3531 situation right now too, and reading through everyone's experiences has been incredibly helpful! It's reassuring to know that signature scanning issues are so common - I was beating myself up thinking I had made some obvious mistake. One thing I'm curious about - for those who have been through this process, how long did it typically take from when you mailed back your corrected Form 3531 until you saw movement on your refund status? I know @ac59dd81328e mentioned 6-8 weeks and @90bdcb40b7b0 said about 7 weeks, but I'm wondering if there's much variation in processing times. Also, has anyone had experience with what happens if the IRS has additional questions after you send back the Form 3531? I'm just trying to prepare myself mentally for all possibilities since this whole process has already taken so much longer than I expected when I originally filed back in February. The certified mail advice seems to be a consistent recommendation from multiple people here, so I'm definitely going to do that. Better safe than sorry when dealing with important tax documents!

I just wanted to share my recent experience with Form 3531 since I see so many people going through the same stress I did a few months ago. I received the form in August with boxes checked for missing signature and address update. Like many others here, I was absolutely certain I had signed my return properly, but apparently my blue pen wasn't dark enough for their scanning equipment. Here's what I learned that might help others: 1. The signature issue is usually about scan quality, not whether you actually signed. Use a black pen and press firmly - blue ink sometimes doesn't scan well even though it's technically acceptable. 2. For the address update, they really do need your current address on this specific return, even if you've updated it elsewhere. This ensures any correspondence or refund related to this particular tax year goes to the right place. 3. Don't panic about timing - your original filing date is preserved. This is just a correction, not a new filing. 4. Make copies of everything before mailing it back, and definitely use certified mail with return receipt. The few extra dollars are worth the peace of mind. After I sent back my corrected Form 3531, my refund processed in about 6 weeks. The whole experience was much less complicated than I initially feared. Sometimes the IRS just needs clarification on simple things, and once you provide it, everything moves forward normally. Hope this helps anyone currently dealing with this situation!