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Doesn't anyone use digital storage anymore?? I scan everything into Google Drive and shred the originals. Been doing this for 10+ years now. I have a folder for each tax year and subfolders for W2s, property tax, etc. No more paper clutter and I can find stuff instantly when needed.
I do this too but make sure you're encrypting sensitive docs before uploading them to cloud storage! Regular PDFs in Google Drive aren't that secure. I use encrypted archives or password-protected PDFs.
As someone who went through this exact decluttering process last year, I'd recommend creating a simple spreadsheet to track what you're keeping vs. shredding by year. The 3-year rule is generally safe for most people, but I kept 7 years worth just for peace of mind after reading about those audit extension scenarios. One tip that saved me hours: invest in a decent cross-cut shredder if you're going to tackle years of returns. My little strip-cut shredder died halfway through 2015's paperwork! Also, don't forget to shred any old bank statements or credit card statements from those same years - they often have account numbers that could be useful to identity thieves. For what it's worth, I found the decluttering process oddly satisfying once I got into a rhythm. Just make sure you double-check for any documents related to ongoing issues (like home improvements or investments) before you shred!
Have you checked your child's credit report? If someone has your child's SSN, they might be using it for more than just taxes. How did you discover that someone else claimed your child? Did you get a rejection when trying to e-file, or did you receive a notice from the IRS?
This is such a frustrating situation! I went through something similar when my neighbor's ex-wife claimed my daughter by mistake (they have the same first name). Here's what I learned from that experience: 1. Don't panic about the refund delay - yes, it will take longer, but you WILL get your money eventually 2. Gather every piece of documentation you have showing your child lives with you - school enrollment, medical records, daycare receipts, etc. 3. When you paper file, include a cover letter explaining the situation clearly 4. Keep copies of everything you send The most important thing is to act quickly. The IRS will eventually sort this out, but the sooner you get your paperwork in, the sooner they can start the review process. In my case, it took about 4 months total, but I got my full refund plus interest for the delay. Stay strong - you're the rightful parent and the system will work in your favor!
I've been following a similar strategy for about 2 years now, overpaying by roughly $18K annually. One thing that's given me peace of mind is working with a tax professional who helped me establish a defensible estimation methodology. What we do is create quarterly projections that account for variable income scenarios - like potential bonuses, freelance work, or investment gains that might materialize. I document these projections each quarter, showing how I arrived at my estimated payment amounts. Sometimes the income materializes, sometimes it doesn't, but the important thing is having a reasonable basis for each payment. The processing fees (around 1.9%) are definitely worth it when you're hitting signup bonuses that can be 15-20% returns in just a few months. Just make sure you're not putting all your overpayments on one card or making it too obvious that you're manufactured spending. My advice would be to treat this as legitimate tax planning first, credit card optimization second. Keep good records, vary your amounts somewhat year to year, and make sure you can articulate why your estimates led to overpayments if ever asked. The IRS isn't going to penalize you for being conservative with your tax planning.
This is really helpful advice! I'm just starting to consider this strategy and the emphasis on treating it as legitimate tax planning first makes a lot of sense. Quick question - when you say "vary your amounts somewhat year to year," do you mean the total overpayment amount or the quarterly distribution? I'm trying to figure out the best way to make this look natural while still being able to hit the credit card bonuses I'm targeting.
@Emma Thompson Great question! I vary both actually - some years I might overpay $15K, others $20K, depending on my actual income projections for that year. For quarterly distribution, I also mix it up - sometimes front-loading more in Q1 if I expect higher income later, other times spreading it more evenly. The key is having legitimate business reasons for the variations. Like this year I m'expecting some consulting projects to wrap up in Q3, so my Q2 and Q3 payments are higher to account for that projected income spike. Last year was more evenly distributed because my income was steadier. This natural variation makes it look like genuine tax planning rather than a systematic scheme, while still giving you flexibility to time your credit card applications around when you need to hit minimum spend requirements.
I've been considering this strategy myself and appreciate all the insights here. One additional angle I'd suggest is looking at safe harbor rules for estimated taxes. If you pay either 100% of last year's tax liability or 110% (for higher income earners), you're automatically safe from underpayment penalties regardless of how much you actually owe. This gives you a legitimate framework for "conservative" estimates that could result in systematic overpayments. You could base your estimated payments on projections that ensure you hit these safe harbor thresholds, and if your actual income ends up lower, the overpayment becomes a natural byproduct of following IRS safe harbor guidelines. The beauty of this approach is that you're literally following an IRS-recommended strategy for avoiding penalties. It's hard for them to question a methodology they explicitly endorse, even if it results in consistent overpayments when combined with credit card optimization. Just make sure to document your safe harbor calculations each year to show you're following established tax planning principles rather than arbitrary overpayment amounts.
This is brilliant advice! The safe harbor approach gives you rock-solid legal ground to stand on. I hadn't thought about framing it that way, but you're absolutely right - if you're following IRS guidelines to avoid penalties, any resulting overpayments are just prudent tax planning. Do you happen to know if there are any limits on how much above the safe harbor amounts you can go before it starts looking suspicious? Like if the safe harbor calculation says I need to pay $30K but I pay $45K because I'm projecting potential bonus income, is that still reasonable? The documentation aspect you mentioned seems crucial too. I'm thinking a simple spreadsheet showing "Safe harbor minimum: $X, Projected additional income scenarios: $Y, Total estimated payment: $X+Y" would create a clean paper trail.
I'm in the middle of my OIC process and the waiting is brutal!!! Submitted everything 5 months ago and still showing as "pending" whenever I check the status online. Does anyone know if calling actually speeds anything up?
In my experience, calling doesn't speed up the process but can sometimes give you peace of mind about where things stand. My OIC took 13 months total, with several requests for additional information along the way.
I went through the OIC process last year and it was one of the most stressful but ultimately rewarding experiences dealing with the IRS. My situation was similar to yours - owed about $38,000 due to business failure and medical issues. A few key things I learned: First, be absolutely honest and thorough with your financial documentation. The IRS will verify everything, and any inconsistencies will delay or kill your application. Second, don't underestimate how long it takes - mine took 14 months from start to finish, with multiple requests for additional paperwork. I did use a tax professional for the initial application, which cost me $3,500, but it was worth it for the peace of mind. They helped me calculate a realistic offer amount ($11,200 for my $38,000 debt) and made sure all the forms were filled out correctly. One thing nobody tells you - during the application process, the IRS stops collection activities, which was a huge relief. No more threatening letters or calls. Just be prepared for the emotional rollercoaster of waiting months without updates. The acceptance letter arriving was one of the best days of my life. Don't give up hope - if your financial situation truly warrants it, the program can work. Just be patient and meticulous with your paperwork.
This is really encouraging to hear! I'm just starting to gather all my financial documents and feeling overwhelmed by the process. When you say they verify everything - do you mean they actually contact banks and employers directly, or do they just cross-reference with other tax records? I'm worried about missing something important that could derail my application. Also, did your tax professional help you determine what qualified as "allowable expenses" for the financial analysis? I keep reading conflicting information about what the IRS considers reasonable living expenses.
Lily Young
Remember that gambling income is taxable even if you didn't get a W2G form. The IRS requires you to report ALL gambling winnings, even small amounts. Player cards at casinos can also track your activity.
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Ana ErdoΔan
β’what about online gambling?
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Lily Young
β’Online casinos still report to IRS if you win over $1,200 in one go. They have your SSN when you signed up.
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Nia Wilson
The IRS gets copies of all W-2G forms that casinos issue for winnings over $1,200 (slots/bingo) or $5,000 (poker tournaments). Your transcript will definitely show these reported amounts even before you file your return. If you had $50k in wins, that's likely already in their system. Best to get your transcript now and see exactly what they have on file - you can request it free directly from IRS.gov. Don't risk penalties by underreporting what they already know about.
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Giovanni Marino
β’This is super helpful info! I'm new here but dealing with a similar situation. Quick question - when you say "get your transcript now", how long does it usually take to receive it? And is there a difference between what shows up on the online transcript vs the mailed version? Want to make sure I'm seeing everything before I file.
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