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Wondering if either of you have student loans? This literally changed everything for my wife and me when we got married. If either of you are on income-based repayment, filing separately could save thousands in student loan payments even if you pay slightly more in taxes.

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This!!!! Filing separately saved me literally $4k in student loan payments last year even though we paid about $800 more in taxes. Definitely worth considering if you have federal loans.

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Great question! Since you're getting married in October, you'll be considered married for the entire 2024 tax year regardless of living separately. Here are the key things to consider: **Filing Status**: You'll have two options - Married Filing Jointly (MFJ) or Married Filing Separately (MFS). Head of Household won't be available once you're married. **W-4 Updates**: Yes, update your W-4s soon! With your combined income of ~$295k, you'll likely be in a higher tax bracket and may need to adjust withholdings to avoid underpayment penalties. **Children**: If filing jointly, you can claim both kids on one return. If filing separately, each claims their own child. **Property Considerations**: Since you both own homes, pay attention to the SALT deduction cap ($10k jointly vs $10k each if filing separately). With two properties, you might exceed this limit. **Run Both Scenarios**: Given your income levels and dual home ownership, definitely calculate both MFJ and MFS. Sometimes MFS works better despite losing some tax benefits, especially if you have high property taxes or state income taxes. The living situation doesn't matter for tax purposes - only your legal marital status on December 31st counts. I'd recommend using tax software to model both scenarios before deciding!

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This is really comprehensive advice! I'm also getting married this year (December) and had no idea about the SALT deduction differences between joint vs separate filing. Quick question - when you mention using tax software to model both scenarios, are there any specific tools you'd recommend? I tried the basic calculators online but they don't seem to handle the dual home ownership situation very well. Also, do you know if there are any other deductions we might lose by filing separately that we should factor into our calculations?

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Ava Martinez

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I went through something very similar last year! The timing of these notices can be really confusing because they're often generated automatically by the IRS computer system without considering recent payments. Here's what I'd recommend: First, check your bank account to confirm your payment cleared. Then, set up an online account at IRS.gov if you haven't already - this will show your most current balance and payment history. The online account updates faster than their notice system. Based on the amounts you mentioned ($1,492 vs $1,495.58), it does look like the CP22A is showing the original amount plus a small amount of interest that accrued before your payment was processed. This is completely normal. If your online account shows a zero balance or only a small remaining balance after your payment posts, then you know you're in good shape. If it still shows the full amount after 2-3 weeks, then you'll want to contact them with proof of your payment. Don't stress too much - this timing issue happens to a lot of people, especially during busy tax seasons. The IRS notices often cross in the mail with payments, creating this exact confusion you're experiencing.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm dealing with my first CP notice and wasn't sure if I should panic or wait it out. The part about setting up the online account makes a lot of sense - I've been putting that off but it sounds like it's the best way to see what's actually happening with my account in real time. How long did it take for your online account to show the correct balance after you made your payment?

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Zainab Yusuf

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@Peyton Clarke In my case, it took about 10 days for the online account to reflect my payment - I had sent a check so that included processing time. If you pay electronically through the IRS Direct Pay system, it should show up much faster, usually within 1-2 business days. The key thing is that the online account updates way faster than their automated notice system, so you ll'know your true status before any more confusing notices arrive. Setting up the account is definitely worth the few minutes it takes - it gives you so much peace of mind to see exactly what they have on file for you.

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PixelWarrior

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I've been through this exact situation! The CP22A is almost certainly related to your CP2000 payment, and the small difference ($3.58) is likely interest that accumulated between when the original notice was generated and when your payment was processed. Here's what I'd do in your shoes: 1. **Check your bank** - Make sure your $1,492 payment has cleared 2. **Set up IRS online account** - Go to IRS.gov and create an account to see your current balance in real-time. This updates much faster than their notice system 3. **Wait 2-3 weeks** - Give the IRS time to process and apply your payment to your account 4. **Only pay the difference** - If your online account shows you only owe the small interest amount after your payment posts, just pay that The IRS computer system generates these notices automatically, often before recent payments are fully processed in their system. It's super common for the CP22A to cross in the mail with your payment, creating exactly this kind of confusion. Don't panic - you're handling this correctly by paying promptly. Just give their system time to catch up, and use the online account to see your true current status rather than relying on potentially outdated paper notices.

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This is exactly the kind of clear, step-by-step advice I needed when I was dealing with my first IRS notices! I'm curious though - when you say "wait 2-3 weeks," is that from when you mail the check or from when it actually clears your bank account? I sent my payment about a week ago and it cleared my bank three days ago, so I'm trying to figure out my timeline for checking the online account.

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CP05 Notice: IRS Reviewing My 2024 Tax Return Filed in February - Could Take 60 Days For Refund

I filed my taxes in late February 2025 and was really counting on getting my refund. Today (April 8) I just got this CP05 notice from the IRS saying my return is being reviewed. The notice is dated March 3, 2025 and says "Your 2024 tax return is being reviewed" at the top. The notice states: "We review returns to determine whether income, income tax withholding, credits, or expenses are reported correctly." It goes on to say "We're reviewing your return to verify its accuracy. We understand your tax refund is important to you and we'll work to complete our review as quickly as possible." According to the notice, I don't need to do anything at this time since I did file a 2024 tax return. Once they finish their review, they may: - Send me my refund - Ask for additional information - Deny all or part of my refund (and if I disagree with the denial, I can appeal) The notice says it could take up to 60 days to complete their review. If I haven't received my refund or heard from them within 60 days, I should call them at 800-829-1040. But they specifically say "Please wait 60 days before contacting us since we won't be able to provide any additional information." They also mention I can check my refund status at IRS.gov/Refunds or the IRS2Go mobile app. There's a whole section about what to do if I DIDN'T file a 2024 tax return (which doesn't apply to me), talking about identity theft and Form 14039. The notice also mentions I can find more information at IRS.gov/CP05 and talks about an IRS Identity Protection PIN that can help prevent misuse of my taxpayer identification number. There's also information about the Taxpayer Advocate Service (TAS) which apparently is "an independent organization within the IRS that helps taxpayers and protects taxpayers' rights." They provide free assistance and can be reached at TaxpayerAdvocate.IRS.gov or 877-777-4778. Has anyone else dealt with this CP05 notice? What happens during this review? Will I still get my refund? And is there anything I can do to speed up the process? I really need this money for some upcoming expenses, and waiting 60 days is going to cause me serious problems.

I'm dealing with a CP05 notice right now too, and the anxiety is real! Filed in early March and got the notice last week. What's been driving me crazy is not knowing WHY they're reviewing it - like you, everything seemed straightforward on my return. I've been reading that these reviews have become much more common lately, especially for returns with education credits (which I also claimed). The waiting game is brutal when you're counting on that money for expenses. One small tip that's helped my peace of mind: I screenshot my "Where's My Refund" status every few days so I can actually see if anything changes, rather than just relying on memory. The status hasn't updated yet, but at least I feel like I'm doing something! Keep us posted on how it goes - hoping we both get good news before the full 60 days are up! šŸ¤ž

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Steven Adams

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I'm in the exact same boat! Filed in late February, got my CP05 notice a couple weeks ago, and I also claimed education credits. The not knowing WHY is definitely the worst part - like did I mess something up or is it just random? That screenshot tip is actually brilliant - I've been checking obsessively but then second-guessing myself about whether anything changed. Going to start doing that today! Really hoping we both hear something soon. This whole process makes you feel so powerless when you're just waiting on money that's rightfully yours. At least it's good to know I'm not alone in this! šŸ¤

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I'm going through the exact same thing right now! Filed my return in early March and just got my CP05 notice yesterday. Like you, I was really counting on that refund for some upcoming bills and the 60-day wait is stressing me out. What's been helpful for me is remembering that this is actually pretty routine - my accountant told me these reviews have become way more common since the IRS is trying to prevent fraud. She said most of her clients who get CP05 notices end up getting their full refund, just with the delay. I've been checking the "Where's My Refund" tool obsessively (probably not healthy lol) but at least it gives me something to do while I wait. The hardest part is just not knowing exactly what triggered the review. Hang in there - from everything I've read here and elsewhere, the odds are really good that you'll get your refund once they finish their verification. The waiting just sucks when you need the money! šŸ¤ž

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Has anyone had success getting the failure-to-pay penalties abated when filing an amended return for a capital loss carryback? We're in a similar situation but our CFO is saying it's not worth pursuing because the penalties will still apply even if the tax is reduced.

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Emily Sanjay

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We were able to get partial penalty abatement by showing reasonable cause. In our case, we documented the market downturn that caused both our inability to pay the original tax and the subsequent capital losses. We included a detailed letter explaining the circumstances with our amended return and about 70% of the penalties were removed.

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Mei Liu

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I went through almost the exact same situation with our C corp last year. A few key points from my experience: 1. The 3-year deadline Noah mentioned is correct, but don't wait until the last minute. The IRS processing time for corporate amendments can be 6+ months. 2. Regarding penalties and interest - they will be recalculated from the original due date based on your reduced liability after the carryback. However, you'll still owe some penalties for the period you didn't pay, just on a smaller base amount. 3. One thing that helped us significantly was filing Form 1139 (Application for Tentative Refund) along with the 1120X. This can speed up getting at least a partial refund while they process the full amendment. 4. Document everything about your cash flow issues and the market conditions that caused both the original payment problem and the subsequent losses. This can help with penalty abatement requests. The whole process took about 8 months for us, but we recovered about 65% of our tax liability plus got partial penalty relief. Definitely worth pursuing given your timeline - you still have nearly a year before the deadline.

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This is incredibly helpful, thank you for sharing your experience! The 8-month processing time is good to know - I was hoping it would be faster but at least now I can set realistic expectations. A couple of follow-up questions: When you filed Form 1139, did you receive the tentative refund before the full amendment was processed? And for the penalty abatement documentation, did you submit that with the original amended return or as a separate request afterward? Also, did you work with a tax professional or handle this yourself? Given the complexity and the amounts involved, I'm wondering if it's worth bringing in a specialist at this point.

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Great question! I've been dealing with this exact issue for the past few years with my rental properties. You can definitely deduct your umbrella insurance as a rental expense, but there are a few important things to keep in mind. First, if your umbrella policy covers both personal assets and rental properties (which is common), you'll need to allocate the premium. I typically use the property value method - if my rental properties represent 60% of the total insured value, then I deduct 60% of the premium on Schedule E. Second, make sure you keep good documentation of your allocation method. I create a simple spreadsheet each year showing the property values and calculation, just in case the IRS asks questions later. One tip from my experience: if you're managing multiple rental properties, consider having your insurance agent break down exactly what portion of the umbrella coverage applies to each property. This makes the allocation much cleaner and gives you better documentation for tax purposes. The $325 annual premium you mentioned is pretty reasonable for umbrella coverage, and even if you can only deduct a portion of it, every legitimate business expense helps reduce your taxable rental income!

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Emma Davis

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This is really helpful, thanks for sharing your experience! I'm new to rental property investing and just bought my first duplex. I'm wondering - when you say "property value method" for allocation, do you use the current market value or the original purchase price? Also, do you update this calculation every year as property values change, or do you stick with the same percentage once you establish it? I'm trying to set up good record-keeping practices from the start so I don't run into issues down the road.

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Great question @Emma Davis! For the property value method, I use current market values rather than purchase price since that better reflects the actual risk and coverage the insurance company is providing. Property values change over time, so using outdated purchase prices from years ago wouldn't give you an accurate allocation. I do update my calculation annually when I renew the policy. It's a bit of extra work, but property values can shift significantly year to year, especially in hot markets. I usually pull recent comparable sales or use online valuation tools like Zillow as a starting point, then apply a reasonable estimate. For example, if my personal residence has appreciated faster than my rental properties, the allocation percentage for rentals might decrease slightly. It's worth the effort to keep it accurate - both for maximizing legitimate deductions and for audit protection. Since you're just starting out with your duplex, I'd recommend setting up a simple Excel file to track this annually. Include the property addresses, estimated values, total portfolio value, and calculated percentages. Takes maybe 30 minutes once a year but gives you solid documentation if the IRS ever questions your allocation method.

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This is such a timely question! I just went through this exact situation with my CPA last month. The good news is that umbrella insurance premiums are absolutely deductible for rental properties - it's considered a legitimate business expense under IRS guidelines. What I learned from my CPA is that the key documentation piece is showing the "business purpose" of the insurance. Since umbrella policies provide additional liability protection beyond your standard landlord insurance, they directly relate to protecting your rental business assets and income stream. For allocation, I use a method based on liability exposure rather than just property values. My insurance agent helped me understand that umbrella policies are really about protecting against lawsuits and claims, so I consider factors like rental income generated, number of tenants, and property types when determining the business vs. personal split. One thing to watch out for - make sure your umbrella policy actually covers rental activities. Some standard personal umbrella policies specifically exclude business activities, including rental properties. If yours has that exclusion, you might need a separate commercial umbrella policy to get the coverage AND the tax deduction. Keep copies of your policy declarations page and any correspondence with your agent about the business coverage. The IRS likes to see clear documentation that the insurance is genuinely for business protection, not just personal asset protection that happens to include some rental properties.

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Jamal Wilson

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This is excellent advice about checking for rental activity exclusions! I actually ran into this exact issue when I first started investing in rental properties. My personal umbrella policy had a clause that excluded coverage for any "business activities," which included rental properties. I had to switch to a commercial umbrella policy, which ended up costing about $150 more per year, but now I have proper coverage AND can deduct 100% of the premium since it's exclusively for my rental business. The peace of mind is worth it, especially given how litigious things can get with tenant issues. @Sophie Hernandez - I m'curious about your liability exposure method for allocation. Could you share a bit more detail about how you factor in things like number of tenants and property types? I have a mix of single-family homes and small multifamily properties, and I m'wondering if I should be weighting them differently in my calculations.

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