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Carmen Reyes

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Just a heads up that Venmo payments over $600 are now being reported to the IRS anyway through 1099-K forms. So even if your employer doesn't send a 1099-NEC, Venmo might send you a 1099-K for all those payments. Either way the IRS will know about the income.

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Andre Moreau

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That's actually not happening this year! The IRS delayed the $600 1099-K reporting requirement again. The threshold is staying at $20,000 AND 200 transactions for 2024 tax filings. So most people getting paid through Venmo won't get a 1099-K unless they hit both those numbers.

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Freya Larsen

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Just to add some practical advice - make sure you're keeping detailed records of ALL your contractor expenses too! Since you're getting paid through Venmo and working as an independent contractor, you can deduct legitimate business expenses on Schedule C. Things like your home office space, internet bills, computer equipment, software subscriptions, travel for work, and even a portion of your phone bill can potentially be deducted. This can significantly reduce your taxable income and the self-employment taxes you'll owe. Also, don't forget you'll need to pay quarterly estimated taxes if you expect to owe $1,000 or more for the year. With $18,500 in contractor income, you'll likely owe both income tax and self-employment tax (Social Security and Medicare). The IRS expects payments throughout the year, not just at filing time. Consider setting aside 25-30% of each payment you receive to cover your tax obligations. It's better to overpay slightly than get hit with underpayment penalties!

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This is really helpful advice! I'm new to being a contractor and had no idea about the quarterly tax payments. When you say 25-30% of each payment, does that include both federal and state taxes? I'm in California so I know state taxes can be pretty high. Also, is there a simple way to calculate what I should be setting aside, or should I just use that percentage as a rough estimate?

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The IRS website has a great resource for this! Go to IRS.gov and search for "Student Loan Interest Deduction" - they maintain a table with current and previous year phase-out ranges. You can also find all the inflation-adjusted tax parameters in IRS Revenue Procedure publications, which are released annually. For example, Rev. Proc. 2023-34 has all the 2024 numbers, and Rev. Proc. 2024-40 has the 2025 figures. Pro tip: bookmark the IRS "Tax Benefits for Education" page (Publication 970) as it gets updated each year with all the current thresholds for student loan interest deduction, education credits, and other education-related tax benefits. Much more reliable than random tax websites that might not be updated promptly.

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Andre Moreau

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This is a great example of why it's so important to double-check which tax year's rules apply to any given question! I've seen this trip up so many people on exams and in real practice. One thing that might help for future reference: when you're doing phase-out calculations, always remember the formula is applied to the MAXIMUM allowable deduction amount, not the actual amount paid. So for student loan interest, you're always starting with the lesser of $2,500 or actual interest paid, then applying the phase-out reduction to that base amount. The IRS is pretty consistent with this approach across different deductions and credits - they phase out the benefit amount, not the underlying expense. This same logic applies to education credits, retirement contribution deductions, and other income-sensitive tax benefits. Glad you got the job despite the test confusion! Sometimes these exam questions can be poorly worded or use outdated figures, which makes them more about test-taking strategy than actual tax knowledge.

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StarStrider

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This is such a helpful thread! As someone who's completely new to tax calculations, I really appreciate how everyone broke down the phase-out formula step by step. I had no idea you had to apply the phase-out percentage to the maximum deduction amount rather than the total interest paid - that seems like such an easy mistake to make! @Andre Moreau - your point about the IRS being consistent with this approach across different deductions is really valuable. Are there other common deductions where people make similar mistakes with phase-out calculations? I want to make sure I understand this concept correctly before I have to deal with it on my own taxes. The year-by-year phase-out ranges that @Oliver Fischer posted are going straight into my tax reference folder. It s crazy'how much these thresholds change each year!

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Carmen Ruiz

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For everyone saying to track every hour/date: I just set aside one day a week to update my records. Friday afternoons, I enter all cash payments and expenses from the week. Takes maybe 15 minutes but saves so much stress at tax time. Been doing this for 6 years as a handyman getting mostly cash payments. Never had any issues with the IRS.

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Chloe Wilson

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That's a smart routine! What type of info do you record for each payment? Just date and amount or do you get more detailed than that? Also, do you have a system for storing receipts for expenses?

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Carmen Ruiz

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I record date, client name, brief description of work, hours (approximate is fine), and payment amount. I also note whether it was cash, check, or electronic payment. For receipts, I take pictures of them with my phone and save them in a folder organized by month. For bigger expenses (like tools over $100), I also keep the physical receipt in an accordion folder. The key is consistency - doing it weekly means I don't forget details or lose receipts. The IRS mainly wants to see that your record-keeping is systematic and reasonable, not necessarily perfect down to the penny.

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This is really helpful info everyone! I had no idea I needed to track so much detail for cash payments. @Carmen Ruiz your weekly routine sounds perfect - I think I'll try something similar. One more question though - if I'm doing multiple small jobs for the same client throughout the year, do I need to record each individual payment separately or can I just track monthly totals per client? Like if someone pays me $50 every week for yard work, is it okay to just record "$200 - yard work for Client A - January" or does the IRS want to see each individual $50 payment listed?

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You should record each individual payment separately, even if it's the same client paying you weekly. The IRS wants to see a clear paper trail that shows when income was actually received. Recording "$200 - yard work for Client A - January" could raise red flags because it looks like you're estimating or grouping payments together, which might not reflect the actual dates you received the money. Individual entries also protect you if there's ever a discrepancy - like if the client claims they paid you less than you reported, or if you need to prove when specific income was earned for quarterly tax purposes. It only takes a few extra seconds to write "1/7 - $50 yard work Client A, 1/14 - $50 yard work Client A" etc. The detailed records show the IRS (and yourself) that you're keeping accurate, real-time documentation rather than trying to reconstruct things later.

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Great thread! Just to add one more resource - if you're still feeling uncertain about the filing requirements after using tax software, the IRS has a really helpful Interactive Tax Assistant tool on their website (irs.gov/help/ita). You can walk through a series of questions about your daughter's specific situation and it will give you a definitive answer about whether filing is required. I used it last year when my nephew had a similar situation with both W-2 income and investment sales. The tool is free, official, and takes into account all the different thresholds and rules that apply to dependents. It's particularly useful because it considers the interaction between earned income, unearned income, and gross proceeds from sales. Since you mentioned this is her first year investing, you might also want to keep good records of all her transactions beyond just what's on the 1099-B. If she continues investing, having detailed records of purchase dates, amounts, and any reinvested dividends will be invaluable for future tax years. Good luck with the filing!

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Isaac Wright

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Thanks for mentioning the Interactive Tax Assistant! I had no idea the IRS had that tool. As someone new to dealing with kids and taxes, it's reassuring to know there are official resources that can walk you through these situations step by step. The point about keeping detailed records is really smart too. I've been helping my teenage cousin with his first investment account, and we've just been relying on the brokerage statements. But you're right that having our own records of everything - especially for things like dividend reinvestments that might not show up clearly on tax forms - will probably save us headaches down the road. It's amazing how complicated taxes can get even for what seems like simple situations. Better to over-document than under-document when it comes to the IRS!

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Eve Freeman

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This is such a valuable discussion! I'm dealing with a similar situation with my 16-year-old who started investing with birthday money. One thing I learned the hard way is that even though the gross proceeds threshold triggers the filing requirement, you also need to be careful about how the cost basis is reported on the 1099-B. Some brokerages don't track cost basis for stocks purchased before certain dates, or they might not have complete information if the stocks were transferred from another account. If the cost basis shows as "not reported to IRS" or is blank on the 1099-B, you'll need to provide that information on the tax return yourself. I'd recommend double-checking that the $2,800 cost basis on your daughter's 1099-B matches your records of what was actually paid for the stocks. If there are any discrepancies, you'll want to have documentation ready to support the correct cost basis when filing. The IRS will definitely notice if the reported gain doesn't match what they expect based on the 1099-B information they receive.

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Mei Liu

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Has anyone here actually calculated the exact difference between donating directly to charity vs using a DAF? I'm trying to figure out if the extra complexity is worth it for my situation.

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It really depends on your timing and tax situation. DAFs make sense if: 1) You want the tax deduction now but haven't decided on specific charities 2) You want to donate anonymously 3) You're having a high-income year and want to bunch deductions 4) You have appreciated securities to donate If you're just writing checks to charities you already know, a DAF might add unnecessary complexity and fees.

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One thing to keep in mind with your specific situation is the timing of when you execute this strategy. Since you're planning to donate $130k worth of appreciated stock to a DAF, you'll want to make sure you have enough AGI to use the full deduction in the current tax year. With your combined income of $650k, you should be able to deduct up to 30% of AGI for appreciated stock donations to a DAF, which would be around $195k - so you're well within the limits for the $130k donation. However, I'd recommend getting the DAF set up and making the stock donation BEFORE you sell the other $130k portion. This way you can see exactly how the deduction impacts your tax liability before triggering the capital gains on the sale. Also worth noting that different brokerages have different processes for transferring appreciated securities to DAFs - some are more streamlined than others. Fidelity, Schwab, and Vanguard all make it relatively easy if you're already their customer, but it can take a few days to process the transfer. The strategy definitely works, but the exact tax savings will depend on your state taxes and whether you're subject to the 3.8% net investment income tax on the capital gains portion.

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This is really helpful timing advice! I hadn't thought about setting up the DAF and donating the stock FIRST before selling the other portion. That makes a lot of sense to see the actual tax impact before triggering the capital gains. Quick question - when you mention the 3.8% net investment income tax, does that apply to the full $130k I'd be selling, or only the gain portion? With our income level, I'm assuming we'd be subject to it, but want to make sure I'm calculating this correctly. Also, do you know if there are any restrictions on which specific lots of stock I donate vs sell? Since I've been accumulating this position over several years, some lots have much higher gains than others. Would it make sense to donate the lots with the highest cost basis and sell the ones with lower basis to minimize the taxable gain?

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