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the irs deposited my refund at exactly 12:01 am on february 5th last year. the year before it was 3:17 am. i checked my transaction history this morning. so its definetly overnight/early morning deposits with my bank (wells fargo

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My credit union always posts them around 2am! I think it all depends on when your bank processes ACH transfers. I learned that they get the deposit info from the IRS the night before it actually shows in your account.

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Ravi Gupta

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Based on my experience and what I've seen with friends and family, the IRS typically sends direct deposit batches to banks overnight, and most people see their refunds hit their accounts in the early morning hours - usually between midnight and 6am. The exact timing really depends on your specific bank's processing schedule. Since your Where's My Refund tool shows "approved," that's a great sign! You're likely looking at seeing that deposit within the next 1-2 business days. I'd recommend checking your account first thing in the morning rather than staying up late refreshing - that's when most banks post the overnight ACH transfers from the IRS. Also worth noting that if you have direct deposit set up for other things (like payroll), your refund will likely post around the same time those usually appear. Good luck with your refund!

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This is really helpful advice! I'm in the same boat as the original poster - filed about a week ago and just got the approved status yesterday. I've been checking my account obsessively too but sounds like I should just check once in the morning instead of every few hours. My bank usually posts my paycheck around 3am so I'll probably see the refund around then if it comes overnight. Thanks for the reassurance that "approved" means it's coming soon!

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Amara Okafor

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I went through this exact same situation two years ago as a digital nomad with German citizenship but no tax residency anywhere. After a lot of research and consultation with a tax professional, here's what worked for me: I listed Germany (my citizenship country) on Schedule OI and included a brief statement in Part I explaining that while I'm a German citizen, I don't meet Germany's tax residency requirements due to spending less than 183 days there annually and maintaining no permanent address. The key is being able to demonstrate that you genuinely don't qualify as a tax resident anywhere under each country's specific rules. I kept detailed records of my travel dates and locations, plus documentation showing I didn't maintain a permanent home anywhere. My return was processed without any issues, and I never received any follow-up questions from the IRS. The important thing is to be honest and accurate - if you truly don't have tax residency anywhere, the IRS understands this is a legitimate situation for modern digital nomads.

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Caleb Stark

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This is really helpful! I'm in a similar situation with U.S. citizenship but living nomadically. Quick question - did you have to provide any specific documentation to prove you didn't meet Germany's 183-day rule, or was your statement sufficient? Also, did you face any complications with German tax authorities by listing Germany on your U.S. forms?

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I didn't need to provide specific documentation with my initial filing - my statement was sufficient. I basically wrote something like "German citizen but do not meet Germany's tax residency requirements due to spending fewer than 183 days annually in Germany and maintaining no permanent German address." As for German tax authorities, listing Germany on my U.S. forms didn't cause any issues. The two systems don't automatically share this information in a way that would trigger German tax obligations. However, I did separately confirm with a German tax advisor that I was properly non-resident under their rules to avoid any future complications. The key is making sure you're genuinely compliant with the residency rules of your citizenship country. If you're truly spending most of your time outside the U.S. and don't maintain a permanent U.S. address, you should be fine using the same approach.

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Amina Sy

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I've been dealing with this exact issue as a U.S. citizen living abroad without a clear tax residency. After consulting with an international tax attorney, here's what I learned: The IRS is primarily concerned with ensuring you're not trying to avoid reporting income or claiming false treaty benefits. For Schedule OI, if you genuinely don't qualify as a tax resident anywhere, you should: 1. List your country of citizenship in the residence field 2. In the additional information section, clearly state your situation: "U.S. citizen with no current tax residency in any country due to continuous international travel" 3. Be prepared to substantiate this claim with travel records if requested The attorney emphasized that this is becoming increasingly common with remote work trends, and the IRS has guidance for handling these "stateless for tax purposes" situations. What matters most is that you can demonstrate you're not artificially avoiding tax obligations in any country. One important note: even if you're not a tax resident anywhere, you still need to comply with U.S. tax obligations as a citizen, including FBAR and FATCA reporting if applicable. The Foreign Earned Income Exclusion might also apply to reduce your U.S. tax liability on foreign-sourced income.

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Amaya Watson

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I ran into this exact same issue last year with TaxAct and found a solution that might work for H&R Block too. Have you checked if there's a "Data Entry Worksheets" or "Forms View" option in your software? In my case, I discovered that while I couldn't copy from the main input screens, there was a separate worksheet view that displayed all my transactions in a more basic format that actually allowed copying. It was buried in the Forms menu under something like "Schedule D Worksheet" or "Capital Gains Detail." Also, if you're using the desktop version, try running it as an administrator (right-click the program icon and select "Run as administrator"). Sometimes copy restrictions are bypassed when the software has elevated permissions. Worth a shot before going the screenshot/OCR route!

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This is a great suggestion! I just checked and found there IS a "Forms View" option in H&R Block - I never would have thought to look there. It's under View > Forms and then I could navigate to the Schedule D form which showed all my transactions in a much simpler layout. While I still can't copy directly from there, it's at least easier to screenshot since everything is laid out in neat rows and columns. The "run as administrator" tip didn't work for me, but the Forms View is definitely going to make the OCR approach much more accurate. Thanks for pointing this out!

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Luca Ferrari

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Another approach that worked for me last tax season - check if H&R Block has a "Review" or "Summary" section before you file. Many tax software programs generate a comprehensive review document that includes all your entries in a more accessible format. In H&R Block, look for something like "Review Your Return" or "Tax Summary" - this often creates a consolidated view of all your forms and schedules. Sometimes this review format is more copy-friendly than the individual input screens. Also, if you're comfortable with it, you might try using browser developer tools if you're using the online version of H&R Block. Press F12, go to the Console tab, and sometimes you can access the underlying data that way. It's a bit technical but I've seen people extract form data this way when normal copy functions are blocked. The combination of these suggestions from everyone should definitely save you from having to manually type all 51 transactions!

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The Review/Summary section is brilliant advice! I wish I had known about this earlier. Just found it in my H&R Block - it's under "File" then "Print/Save Returns" and there's an option for "Tax Return Summary" that shows everything in a much cleaner format. Still testing if I can copy from there, but even if not, it's definitely going to be way easier to work with for screenshots or OCR than the cluttered input screens. You've potentially saved me hours of formatting headaches!

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To answer your second question about why we pay taxes on gross vs net - it's because the tax system is designed so that deductions are controlled by tax policy. If we taxed true "net" (after all your expenses), people would claim all sorts of personal expenses as deductions. Instead, the system defines specific deductions that are allowed (mortgage interest, certain business expenses, etc.) and everything else is considered part of your taxable income. It's not perfect, but it creates a more standardized system.

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Thanks for explaining! I guess that makes sense when you put it that way. I was thinking of "net" as just what's left after pre-tax deductions like 401k and health insurance, but you're right that it could get really complicated if everyone defined their own version of "net income" for tax purposes. Is there any way to reduce what's in Box 1 besides the standard pre-tax deductions? I feel like I'm paying way more than I should.

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Definitely! The most common ways to reduce your Box 1 wages are increasing your 401(k) or other retirement plan contributions, contributing to an HSA if you have a qualifying health plan, and taking advantage of other pre-tax benefits your employer might offer like dependent care FSAs, commuter benefits, or education assistance programs. If you're self-employed or have side income, there are even more options available like SEP IRAs and solo 401(k)s with much higher contribution limits. The key is finding deductions that actually benefit you in multiple ways - retirement contributions not only lower your taxable income now but also help you save for the future.

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Box 1 on W-2 isn't actually gross or net - it's somewhere in between. It's your earnings minus pre-tax deductions like 401k, health insurance, HSA, etc. But it's not your take-home pay either because it's before federal/state/local taxes are withheld. The true gross income (what you earned before ANYTHING was taken out) isn't directly shown on a W-2. Box 3 and 5 are closest but even those might have some deductions taken out.

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Paolo Ricci

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This is actually the clearest explanation I've seen. No wonder I'm always confused! Is there anywhere on the W-2 that shows what your actual take-home pay for the year was? Or do you have to add that up from paystubs?

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Carmen Ortiz

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The W-2 doesn't show your actual take-home pay anywhere - you'd need to add it up from your paystubs or calculate it yourself. Your take-home would be Box 1 minus federal taxes withheld (Box 2), state taxes (Box 17), Social Security tax (Box 4), Medicare tax (Box 6), and any other deductions like union dues or voluntary life insurance that aren't pre-tax. It's kind of annoying that there's no single box that just says "this is what you actually received in your bank account" but I guess the W-2 is designed more for tax purposes than personal budgeting.

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Has anyone tried using the specific ID method for figuring out which shares you sold? I'm dealing with multiple purchases of the same stock over years and some sales are showing up as undetermined. My broker is telling me to use FIFO (first in, first out) but I think that's going to result in a higher tax bill.

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Kayla Morgan

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You can use specific ID, but only if you identified the specific shares to be sold at the time of the sale. If you didn't specify which shares you were selling when you made the transaction, then you're stuck with your broker's default method (usually FIFO). You can't retroactively choose specific identification after the fact.

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Yuki Sato

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This is exactly the situation I found myself in last tax season! What helped me was creating a detailed spreadsheet tracking all my transactions. For the undetermined term lots, I went back through old account statements and trade confirmations to establish purchase dates. One tip that saved me time: if you have dividend reinvestment records, those often contain the purchase dates for fractional shares that might be causing some of the "undetermined" classifications. Also, don't forget that for inherited securities, you get a stepped-up basis to the fair market value on the date of death, and the holding period is automatically considered long-term regardless of how long you actually held them. The key is being systematic about it. I used Form 8949 with the appropriate boxes checked (C for short-term noncovered, F for long-term noncovered) and made sure to include code "B" in column (f) to indicate the basis wasn't reported to the IRS. Keep all your documentation - the IRS may not have the broker's records, but they can still ask you to substantiate your positions.

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This spreadsheet approach is really smart! I'm dealing with a similar mess right now. Quick question - when you say "code B" in column (f), is that for ALL noncovered securities or just the ones where you had to estimate the basis? I have some noncovered lots where I do have the original purchase confirmations, so I know the exact basis and dates. Do those still get code B since the broker didn't report the basis to the IRS?

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