


Ask the community...
Will tax software like TurboTax handle this crypto/stock offset correctly? Or do I need something more specialized?
TurboTax does handle this, but you need to make sure you have all your transactions properly documented. I found it got confusing with lots of transactions. Last year I used CoinTracker to organize all my crypto stuff first, then imported that summary into TurboTax. Worked pretty well.
This is exactly the kind of situation where having proper documentation is crucial. I went through something similar last year - had about $8k in stock losses carried forward from 2022 and realized $12k in crypto gains in 2023. The good news is yes, you can absolutely offset them. Both are treated as capital assets on Schedule D. What saved me was keeping detailed records of every transaction - dates, amounts, cost basis, etc. The IRS doesn't care whether your losses came from Apple stock or your gains came from Bitcoin - they're all capital transactions. One thing to watch out for: if you're actively trading both stocks and crypto, make sure you're not running into wash sale rules. The IRS hasn't explicitly applied wash sales to crypto yet, but it's something to be aware of if you're buying and selling similar assets within 30 days. Also, since you mentioned needing an answer "ASAP" - if you're planning to realize those crypto gains before year end, consider the timing. You might want to realize them in smaller chunks to see exactly how much of your carryforward you'll use up, especially if you think you might have more gains or losses next year.
This is really helpful advice about the documentation! I'm dealing with a similar situation but have been pretty sloppy with my record keeping. Do you have any recommendations for going back and reconstructing transaction history? Some of my older crypto exchange accounts don't have great export features and I'm worried I'm missing some trades from 2022. Also wondering about your point on timing - if I have say $15k in stock loss carryforward and expect maybe $10k in crypto gains this year, would it make sense to realize all the gains now to use up more of that carryforward? Or should I spread it across tax years?
If your gain is under the exclusion amount ($500k married, $250k single), you might not even need to report the sale on your tax return at all, even with the home office situation. IRS Publication 523 has all the details. Saved me a ton of headache when I sold last year!
Based on your situation, you'll likely need to deal with depreciation recapture on the 12% business portion of your home, but it shouldn't be too painful. Since you lived there 3.5 years and made $250k profit, you're well within the married filing jointly exclusion of $500k for the residential portion. The key thing to figure out is exactly how much depreciation you claimed over those years. If you used the actual expense method (not the simplified $5/sq ft method), you would have been depreciating 12% of your home's basis. That depreciation gets "recaptured" at a maximum rate of 25%, not your regular capital gains rate. So if you claimed, say, $10k in total depreciation over 3.5 years, you'd owe taxes on that $10k at the recapture rate. The remaining gain on the business portion might also be taxable as capital gains, but only to the extent it exceeds the depreciation you took. I'd recommend pulling together all your previous tax returns that show the home office deduction and adding up the depreciation amounts. That will give you a good ballpark of what to expect. Consider consulting a tax pro if the numbers are significant - this is one area where a small mistake can be expensive!
This is really helpful! One quick clarification - you mentioned the depreciation gets recaptured at a maximum rate of 25%. Does this mean it could be lower than 25%? Or is it always 25% for depreciation recapture on residential property? I'm trying to figure out if there are any factors that might reduce that rate.
@Fatima Al-Suwaidi - I went through this exact same situation last year! Don't stress too much about it. Here's what worked for me: Call the IRS at 1-800-829-1040 early in the morning (like 7-8 AM) to avoid the worst hold times. When you get through, just be honest and straightforward: "I have an existing installment agreement and I need to modify it to include my 2024 tax liability." They'll ask for your SSN and pull up your account. Have these ready: - Your 2024 tax return (they might want specific numbers) - Your current payment plan details - Bank account info if you want to change payment method In my case, they recalculated everything and gave me options - I could either increase my monthly payment slightly or extend the plan duration. I chose to extend it since my budget was tight. The whole call took about 45 minutes including hold time. They sent me a confirmation letter within 2 weeks. You've got this! šŖ
This is super helpful! Thanks for sharing your experience. Quick question - when they gave you the option to extend vs. increase payments, did they tell you upfront what the new terms would be? Or did you have to ask specifically about different options?
@Elliott luviBorBatman This is exactly what I needed to hear! The 7-8 AM call time tip is gold - I never thought about timing it that way. One follow-up question: did they automatically send you a new installment agreement form, or did you have to request the written confirmation? I want to make sure I have everything documented properly.
I just went through this process a few months ago and wanted to share what I learned! The key thing is to call prepared and don't let them intimidate you - you're being proactive which they actually appreciate. When I called, I started with: "I have an existing installment agreement and I just filed my 2024 taxes. I'd like to modify my current plan to include the new tax year to stay in compliance." A few things that really helped me: - I called right when they opened at 7 AM on a Tuesday (way shorter hold time!) - Had my current agreement number ready (it's on your monthly payment confirmations) - Knew exactly how much I owed for 2024 before calling - Asked them to walk me through ALL my options before deciding They ended up giving me three choices: increase monthly payment by $50, extend the plan by 8 months, or do a combo of both. I went with extending since cash flow is tight right now. The agent was actually really helpful once I explained I was trying to stay compliant. Got my new agreement letter in about 10 days. You're doing the right thing by being proactive about this! š
If you filed with a major tax service like TurboTax, H&R Block, or TaxAct, you might also be able to log into your account on their websites and access your filing history. I discovered I could download my last 7 years of returns from TurboTax even though I thought those records were gone!
That's actually super helpful! I think I used TurboTax for at least some of those years. I'm going to try logging in with my old email addresses and see what I can find. Maybe I won't need to go through the IRS after all if I can piece enough together from the tax prep sites. Thanks for the suggestion!
One more tip that saved me a ton of time - if you're still missing some years after checking the tax prep sites, consider reaching out to former employers from those years. HR departments often keep records of W-2s they issued, and some will provide copies if you explain it's for a mortgage application. I was able to get W-2s from 2017-2018 this way when I couldn't find my copies anywhere. Even if you can't get the actual tax returns, having the W-2s can help you reconstruct your income history and verify what you should be seeing on the IRS transcripts.
That's a brilliant suggestion about contacting former employers! I never would have thought of that. Quick question though - do you know if there's typically a fee when requesting old W-2 copies from HR departments? Also, how far back do most companies usually keep those records? I'm wondering if this approach would work for my 2017-2018 records or if that might be too old for some employers to still have on file.
LordCommander
This has been such a helpful discussion! As someone who's accumulated a decent amount of miles over the years and has family members who could benefit from using them, I never realized how many angles there were to consider. The consensus seems pretty clear: while the $900 should technically be reported as income for tax purposes, the bigger immediate concern is violating your airline's terms of service. I really appreciate Ellie's insider perspective on how airlines actually monitor these things - it sounds like keeping it within family and low-key is key. One thing I'm curious about that hasn't been mentioned much: what about the state tax implications? I know some states have different rules around income reporting. Would this $900 need to be reported on state returns too, or do most states just follow the federal treatment? Also, for future reference, does anyone know if the tax treatment would be different if you were transferring points from a hotel loyalty program versus airline miles? Or do the same general principles apply across all loyalty programs? Thanks again to everyone who shared their real-world experiences - this kind of practical advice is invaluable!
0 coins
Emma Garcia
ā¢Great questions! For state taxes, most states do follow federal treatment, so if you report the $900 as "other income" on your federal return, you'd typically need to include it on your state return too. However, some states like Florida, Texas, and Washington don't have state income tax anyway, so it wouldn't matter there. Regarding hotel points versus airline miles - the tax treatment is generally the same across loyalty programs. Whether it's Marriott points, Hilton points, or airline miles, when you convert them to cash value by "selling" them, that's typically considered taxable income. The IRS doesn't really distinguish between different types of loyalty currency. One interesting wrinkle with hotel points though - some hotel programs are more flexible about transferring points between accounts or booking for others, so you might have more options to structure the arrangement in a way that doesn't technically constitute a "sale." The key principle across all programs seems to be: if you're converting loyalty currency into actual cash, that's when tax implications kick in. If you're just using the points for their intended purpose (booking travel) and someone reimburses you separately, it's much more of a gray area.
0 coins
Elin Robinson
As a newcomer to this community, I've been following this discussion with great interest since I'm in a somewhat similar situation. My sister needs to book a last-minute flight for a family emergency, and I have more than enough miles to cover it. What I'm taking away from all the expert advice here is that while there's technically a tax obligation if money changes hands, the practical risks seem quite manageable for small family transactions. The airline policy concerns that Ellie raised are probably more important to consider in the short term. One approach I'm considering based on this discussion: I could book the flight directly for my sister using my miles, and then she could contribute to a family vacation fund or help with holiday gifts later in the year. That way there's no direct quid pro quo, but she's still able to show appreciation for the help. I really appreciate how this community breaks down complex situations with real-world experience rather than just abstract tax theory. The practical insights about airline monitoring patterns and IRS enforcement priorities are exactly the kind of information you can't find in official publications. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - it's given me much more confidence about how to handle this situation appropriately!
0 coins