


Ask the community...
Welcome to the landlord life! I've been renting out rooms in my house for about 3 years now and the tax benefits are definitely one of the best parts. For your $22k bathroom renovation, since it's used by all tenants as a common area, you'll want to calculate what percentage of your home is used for rental purposes. Don't just count rooms - measure the actual square footage! Include the rental bedrooms plus their proportional share of common areas (hallways, kitchen, living room, that bathroom you're renovating, etc.). This usually gives you a much better percentage than just dividing by number of rooms. One thing to consider with such a large renovation: see if any portions can be classified as repairs rather than improvements. For example, if you're replacing a broken toilet with a similar one, that's a repair (immediate deduction). But if you're upgrading to a luxury model, that's an improvement (depreciated over 27.5 years). A good tax pro can help you maximize what qualifies as repairs. Also don't forget about all the smaller deductible expenses that add up: advertising for tenants, background check fees, supplies, even a portion of your utilities and insurance. The mileage for all those Home Depot trips will add up too at 67 cents per mile! The rental property tax game has a learning curve but it's worth mastering. Good luck with your renovation!
Thanks for the detailed breakdown! I'm curious about the square footage calculation - when you say "proportional share of common areas," how exactly do you calculate that? Like if I have 2 rental bedrooms out of 5 total, do I count 40% of the kitchen/living room/bathroom square footage as rental space? And do you include things like closets and storage areas in those calculations? I'm definitely going to look into the repair vs improvement distinction too. The bathroom needs new flooring, paint, vanity, and toilet - so maybe some of those could qualify as repairs if the old stuff is actually broken rather than just outdated? Also wondering about utilities - do you deduct the rental percentage of your entire electric/gas bill, or do you try to separate out what the tenants actually use?
Great questions! For the square footage calculation, yes - if you have 2 rental bedrooms out of 5 total, you'd typically allocate 40% (2/5) of the common areas to rental use. So 40% of kitchen, living room, hallways, that bathroom, etc. gets added to your rental bedroom square footage. Include closets and storage areas too if tenants have access to them. For the bathroom renovation, definitely explore the repair vs improvement angle! If the old toilet is actually broken/leaking, replacing it could be a repair. Same with flooring if it's damaged rather than just worn. But upgrading from basic to luxury fixtures would likely be improvements. The key is whether you're restoring the property to its previous condition (repair) or adding value/upgrading (improvement). On utilities, I deduct the rental percentage of my entire bill. It's much simpler than trying to measure actual tenant usage, and the IRS accepts this method. So if 40% of your home is rental space, you can deduct 40% of electric, gas, water, etc. Just make sure you're consistent with whatever percentage you use across all your rental deductions. One more tip - take lots of "before" photos of that bathroom to document the condition. This can help support repair classifications if anything was actually broken or damaged rather than just outdated!
As someone who's been through a similar situation, I'd strongly recommend getting professional help for a renovation this large. The $22k bathroom project will have significant tax implications that are worth optimizing properly. A few key points to consider: **Allocation Method Matters**: Don't just use the simple room count method (2 rental rooms out of 5 = 40%). Calculate actual square footage including your tenants' proportional use of common areas. This often results in a higher deductible percentage. **Timing Strategy**: Since you're planning the renovation, you have the opportunity to structure it tax-efficiently. Consider doing any legitimate repairs (fixing broken fixtures, addressing damage) before cosmetic upgrades. Repairs can be fully deducted in the current tax year, while improvements must be depreciated over 27.5 years. **Documentation is Key**: Keep detailed records of everything - receipts, photos of existing conditions, contractor invoices. Proper documentation will support your tax positions if ever questioned. **Consider Professional Consultation**: With a $22k project plus ongoing rental income, the cost of a tax professional who specializes in rental properties will likely pay for itself through optimized deductions and proper structuring. Also remember that landlord expenses extend beyond just the big renovation - maintenance supplies, advertising costs, mileage for property-related trips, and proportional utilities all add up throughout the year.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the impact on your parent's Social Security benefits if they're already receiving them. Since this income would be considered earned income, it could affect their Social Security benefits if they're under full retirement age. For 2024, if your parent is under full retirement age and receiving Social Security, they can earn up to $22,320 without any reduction in benefits. But if they earn more than that, Social Security will reduce their benefits by $1 for every $2 earned above the limit. This is something to factor into your payment calculations alongside the ACA subsidy impacts. Also, even though you're exempt from federal employment taxes, your parent might still want to consider making voluntary Social Security contributions if they're not already maxed out on their credits. They can do this by paying self-employment tax on the income (treating it as self-employment income instead of wages), which might be beneficial for their long-term Social Security benefits.
This is such an important point that I hadn't considered! My mom is 64 and receiving Social Security, so this could definitely impact her benefits. At $12,000 annually, she'd be well under the $22,320 limit, but it's good to know about that threshold. The voluntary Social Security contributions idea is interesting too. Would she report this as self-employment income on Schedule C instead of wages on line 1b if she wanted to make those contributions? And would that change any of the other tax implications we've been discussing? Also, does anyone know if the Social Security earnings limit applies to the total of ALL her earned income, or just the household employee wages? She makes about $28,000 from her part-time job plus the $12,000 I'd be paying her.
The Social Security earnings limit applies to ALL earned income, not just the household employee wages. So if your mom is making $28,000 from her part-time job plus $12,000 from childcare, that's $40,000 total - well above the $22,320 limit. This means her Social Security benefits would be reduced significantly. At $40,000 total earnings, she'd be $17,680 over the limit ($40,000 - $22,320). Social Security would reduce her benefits by $8,840 (half of the excess). This is a major consideration that could outweigh any benefits of the arrangement. Regarding the voluntary Social Security contributions - yes, she could potentially report this as self-employment income on Schedule C instead of wages on line 1b, which would subject it to self-employment tax (15.3%). However, this doesn't change the Social Security earnings limit calculation - self-employment income still counts toward that limit. The main benefit would be earning additional Social Security credits if she needs them for future benefit calculations. Given her current income level and Social Security status, you might want to recalculate whether this arrangement makes financial sense, or consider reducing either the childcare payments or her other work hours to stay under the earnings limit.
This is such a complex situation with multiple moving parts! I went through something similar when hiring my sister to watch my kids. One thing that really helped me was creating a simple decision matrix to weigh all the factors everyone's mentioned here. For your mom's situation specifically - earning $40,000 total with Social Security at 64 - the benefit reduction could be substantial as GalaxyGlider calculated. But remember this isn't necessarily "lost" money - it's more like forced savings. When she reaches full retirement age, Social Security will recalculate her benefits to account for the months they were reduced, which increases her future monthly payments. That said, you might want to consider a hybrid approach: maybe start with a lower payment amount (say $8,000 annually instead of $12,000) to keep her closer to the earnings limit, and supplement with non-cash benefits like covering her gas, providing meals, or other family support that isn't considered earned income. Also, definitely verify her current Social Security status - if she's already at full retirement age, the earnings limit doesn't apply at all, which would change the entire calculation!
This is really helpful advice about creating a decision matrix! The hybrid approach you mentioned is brilliant - I hadn't thought about supplementing with non-cash benefits. That could be a great way to provide additional value to my mom without pushing her over the Social Security earnings limit. Just to clarify on her age - she's 64, so definitely not at full retirement age yet. Full retirement age for her birth year would be around 66 years and 2-4 months, so we're still dealing with the earnings test. Your point about the reduced benefits being like "forced savings" is interesting, but I'm wondering about the cash flow impact in the meantime. If her monthly Social Security gets reduced by hundreds of dollars, that could create a real financial hardship even if it means higher future payments. The $8,000 payment idea might be the sweet spot - keeping her total at around $36,000, which would still trigger some benefit reduction but not as severe. Do you remember what other non-cash benefits you provided that didn't count as income? I'm thinking things like paying for her groceries when she's watching my daughter, or covering her phone bill since she uses it for our childcare coordination.
Be very careful about which line you use on Schedule 1 for the attorney fee deduction. The IRS has specific requirements for employment discrimination settlements under IRC Section 62(a)(20). You'll want to use Schedule 1, Line 24z "Other adjustments" and write "Attorney fees - employment discrimination settlement" in the description. Don't put it under legal fees or business expenses, as those have different rules and limitations. Also, make sure your settlement actually qualifies as "employment discrimination" - this includes claims under Title VII, ADA, ADEA, and similar federal employment laws. Some employment settlements (like wrongful termination based solely on state contract law) might not qualify for the above-the-line deduction. Keep all your documentation together: the settlement agreement, 1099 form, attorney fee agreement, and any correspondence that clearly identifies the nature of your discrimination claim. The IRS has been more aggressive about reviewing these deductions lately.
This is really helpful clarification! I'm dealing with a similar situation and wasn't sure about the specific line item. Quick question - if my settlement was for both discrimination AND retaliation claims under the same federal laws, does that still qualify for the above-the-line deduction? My attorney said retaliation falls under the same umbrella but I want to make sure before I file. Also, when you mention keeping correspondence about the nature of the discrimination claim, would the EEOC charge document be sufficient proof, or do I need something more specific from the settlement paperwork itself?
Yes, retaliation claims absolutely qualify for the above-the-line deduction when they're filed under the same federal employment laws! Retaliation is considered part of the discrimination claim itself under Title VII, ADA, ADEA, etc. The IRS doesn't distinguish between the underlying discrimination and retaliation - they're treated as one qualifying claim. Your EEOC charge document would be excellent supporting documentation since it establishes the federal law basis for your claim. I'd also recommend keeping a copy of the settlement agreement that references the EEOC charge or specifically mentions the federal statutes involved. The key is showing that your settlement resolves claims under qualifying federal employment discrimination laws. If your settlement agreement is vague about the legal basis, you might also want to keep any demand letters or legal filings that clearly reference the specific federal statutes. The IRS wants to see that this isn't just a general employment dispute but specifically covers claims under the federal laws that qualify for the deduction.
I went through this exact situation two years ago with my age discrimination settlement. One thing I wish someone had told me earlier - if your settlement includes both back pay and other damages (like emotional distress), you might need to treat different portions differently for tax purposes. The back pay portion is subject to employment taxes (Social Security, Medicare) even though it's being paid as a settlement, while other damages typically aren't. My attorney didn't break this down clearly in the initial paperwork, and I had to go back and request a detailed allocation between back pay and other damages. Also, don't forget that if your settlement includes interest or punitive damages, those portions are always fully taxable regardless of the attorney fee deduction. Make sure your attorney provides a breakdown of what each portion of the settlement represents - it can make a significant difference in your final tax liability. The good news is that once you get all the documentation sorted out, the above-the-line deduction really does work as described. I saved about $8,000 in taxes by properly deducting my attorney fees rather than trying to claim them as itemized deductions.
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - if your dad's corporation is going to buy a Porsche, he needs to be aware of the luxury auto depreciation limits. For 2025, there are strict caps on how much you can depreciate per year for vehicles over a certain weight class. Also, if the vehicle is used less than 50% for business, he'd have to use the straight-line depreciation method rather than accelerated depreciation. And if personal use is more than minimal, he'd have to report the personal use as taxable compensation.
What counts as a "luxury auto" though? Is it based on the price or something else? And what are the current limits on depreciation?
It's not actually called "luxury auto" in the tax code - that's just common terminology. The IRS has depreciation limits that apply to passenger vehicles regardless of price. For 2024 (2025 limits will be similar with inflation adjustments), the first-year limit was $19,200 if bonus depreciation is claimed. The depreciation limits apply to passenger vehicles under 6,000 pounds gross vehicle weight. This is why you see some business owners buying heavier SUVs - vehicles over 6,000 pounds can qualify for larger Section 179 expensing and aren't subject to the same annual depreciation limits. A Porsche sports car would definitely be subject to the stricter limits, though some of their SUV models might qualify as heavy vehicles.
Has anyone mentioned the tax benefits of leasing vs buying for a corporation? We lease our company vehicles and it simplifies the deduction process significantly. No depreciation calculations, just deduct the lease payments (with some adjustments for luxury vehicles).
How does the luxury car adjustment work for leases? I heard there's some kind of income inclusion but don't really understand it.
Emma Thompson
Just to add another perspective - I sold my father's house last year without getting a formal appraisal first. I just used the county tax assessment and comparables from Zillow to estimate the value at time of death. When I filed taxes, nobody questioned it. BUT - and this is a big but - my tax guy said I was taking a risk. If I get audited within the next few years, I could have problems. So it depends on your risk tolerance. Formal appraisals cost $300-500 but potential tax headaches and penalties could cost WAY more.
0 coins
Malik Davis
ā¢County tax assessments are notoriously inaccurate though. In most counties, they're significantly lower than actual market value. Using that as your basis could actually cost you money if you're paying capital gains on a higher gain than you actually had.
0 coins
Ben Cooper
I'm going through a very similar situation right now with my late father's property in Texas. Based on what I've learned from my estate attorney, you absolutely need proper documentation of the stepped-up basis - it's not optional if you want to avoid potential tax issues down the road. Here's what I'd recommend for your timeline: Get a quick CMA (Comparative Market Analysis) from a realtor this week before you fly down, then when you're in Florida, have a licensed appraiser do a retroactive appraisal as of your grandmother's date of death. Most appraisers can do this and will note in their report that it's for estate tax purposes. The $200-400 you'll spend on the appraisal could save you thousands in capital gains taxes or penalties if you're ever audited. Since you mentioned the house is worth around $320k vs the original $85k purchase price, proper documentation of that stepped-up basis could save you about $35,000 in capital gains taxes (assuming you're in a higher tax bracket). Don't cut corners on this - the IRS is pretty strict about inheritance documentation, especially on higher-value properties. Good luck with the sale!
0 coins
Noah huntAce420
ā¢This is really helpful advice, thank you! I'm new to dealing with inheritance issues and wasn't sure how strict the IRS would be about this. The point about potentially saving $35,000 in capital gains taxes really puts the cost of an appraisal in perspective - spending $400 to potentially save tens of thousands is a no-brainer. Can I ask - when you say "retroactive appraisal as of the date of death," does the appraiser need any special documentation from me, or do they just use public records to determine what the value would have been on that specific date? I want to make sure I have everything ready when I get to Florida next week.
0 coins