I just checked and the IRS has actually removed eFile.com from their authorized e-file providers list as of this morning. I was halfway through my return with them - thank god I didn't submit yet! Anyone know if there's a way to report if you think you might be affected? I entered my SSN and everything...

This is exactly why I always check the IRS website directly before using any tax software. It's scary how quickly these situations can develop - one day they're on the authorized list, the next day they're serving malware to unsuspecting taxpayers. For anyone who did enter information on eFile.com, beyond the excellent security advice already given, I'd also recommend enabling two-factor authentication on all your financial accounts if you haven't already. The malware could have potentially captured login credentials that might be used to access your bank accounts or other sensitive financial services. I've been using TurboTax for years without issues, but given the increasing frequency of these security breaches across the industry, I'm seriously considering switching to a more security-focused option like some of the ones mentioned here. The peace of mind is worth potentially paying a bit more or learning a new interface.

This has been such an educational thread! As someone who's been haphazardly donating items without proper tracking, I'm realizing I need to completely overhaul my approach. One question I have that I don't think was fully addressed - what about seasonal items? Like winter coats in spring or holiday decorations? Should I value these based on what they'd sell for during their off-season, or their peak season value? I imagine a heavy winter coat donated in July might have a different fair market value than the same coat donated in November. Also, I'm curious about the timing of when to take those documentation photos. Should I photograph items right before I load them in the car for donation, or is it better to stage everything earlier when I'm deciding what to donate? I want to make sure I'm capturing everything accurately for my records. The advice about being realistic with condition assessments really resonated with me - I think I've been way too generous in my mental valuations of items that are clearly well-worn. Time to be more honest about that "fair" vs "good" distinction!

This thread has been incredibly comprehensive! I've learned so much about proper donation valuation that I never knew before. One additional tip I'd like to share from my experience - if you're donating books, especially textbooks or professional books, check what they're selling for on Amazon or other online marketplaces first. I donated a bunch of nursing textbooks last year without thinking much about it, but when I looked them up later for tax purposes, I discovered some were still selling for $20-40 used even though they were a few years old. Professional and technical books often retain more value than general fiction, so it's worth doing a quick check. Also, for anyone using apps or software to track donations, make sure whatever system you use can export the data in a format your tax preparer can easily work with. I learned this lesson when I had everything perfectly organized in one app, but then had to manually transfer all the information because my accountant couldn't work with the export format. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this discussion - I feel much more confident about properly documenting my donations going forward!

Why not just wait for ur refund? These loans are basically legal robbery fr

I feel you on needing the money fast! Just wanted to mention that if you do go with TurboTax's refund advance through First Century Bank, make sure you read all the fine print on fees. Sometimes it's worth calling the IRS refund hotline (1-800-829-1954) to get a better idea of your refund timeline first - they might be able to give you more specific info than the online tool. Also, some credit unions offer small emergency loans with way better terms than these tax refund advances if you have time to apply.

This thread has been incredibly valuable! As someone who works in tax preparation, I see this situation frequently and want to add a few practical considerations that might help. Your $16K savings estimate is very realistic given the income disparity. When filing jointly, your $195K income gets spread across both of your standard deductions and lower tax brackets, creating substantial savings compared to single filing status. A few operational tips if you move forward: **Timing considerations**: You mentioned December 31st, but consider getting married a bit earlier in December to avoid any year-end processing delays at the courthouse. Some jurisdictions get backed up right before New Year's. **Withholding strategy**: Plan to submit your new W-4 (married filing jointly) to your employer on January 2nd, 2026. Don't wait until you file your 2025 taxes - you'll want the correct withholding from your first 2026 paycheck. **State tax verification**: While most states follow federal filing status, a few (like California for certain situations) have quirks. Double-check your specific state's rules to ensure the savings apply to both federal and state returns. **Documentation trail**: Keep multiple certified copies of your marriage certificate. You'll need them for tax filing, potential employer benefit changes, and other administrative updates. The financial math clearly works in your favor, and based on what I've seen, couples who frame this as "administrative efficiency" while preserving their ceremonial celebration tend to have the best outcomes. The tax code doesn't care about the emotional timing - it only cares about your legal status on December 31st.

This is such a well-thought-out question, and reading through all these responses has been incredibly educational! As someone who's been lurking in this community for a while, I'm amazed by the detailed experiences and professional insights everyone has shared. Your situation is almost identical to what my partner and I went through two years ago - I was making around $190K while he was finishing his master's program with zero income. We ultimately decided to get legally married in December for the tax benefits, and it was absolutely the right choice for us. A few things that really helped us navigate the decision: **The financial impact was exactly as projected**: We saved about $14,800 that first year, which was within $200 of what the tax calculators predicted. That money went directly toward our wedding fund, which felt so much better than paying it to the IRS. **The emotional separation worked perfectly**: We continued referring to each other as boyfriend/girlfriend until our actual wedding six months later. Having that clear boundary helped preserve the specialness of our "real" wedding day. The courthouse ceremony felt purely administrative, while our celebration with family and friends was deeply meaningful. **Professional guidance was invaluable**: We consulted with a CPA who helped us understand all the implications beyond just the immediate tax savings. They also helped us plan for the following year when my partner started working, including proper W-4 adjustments and estimated payment planning. **Additional benefits added up**: Beyond the tax savings, we saved about $300/month by adding him to my health insurance plan, and the spousal IRA contribution option provided another tax advantage. The key for us was being completely aligned on treating the legal marriage as separate from our emotional/ceremonial commitment. We even had a small private moment after signing the papers where we acknowledged what we'd done together while reaffirming that our "real" wedding would be our true celebration. Two years later, we have zero regrets. The financial benefits were substantial and immediate, and our actual wedding was every bit as special and meaningful as we hoped. If you're both comfortable with the approach and the relationship is solid, the math definitely supports moving forward!

This thread has been incredibly helpful! As someone who's been putting off organizing my tax records, I'm realizing I need to get serious about this before tax season hits. One question I haven't seen addressed yet - what about receipts from mobile payment apps like Venmo, PayPal, or Cash App? I use these for a lot of business expenses, especially when paying contractors or splitting costs with business partners. The transaction history shows the amount and date, but often doesn't have detailed descriptions of what was purchased. Should I be taking screenshots of these transactions and adding my own notes about what they were for? Or is the basic transaction record from the app sufficient as long as I can explain the business purpose? Also, for anyone who mentioned using receipt scanning apps - do you scan receipts immediately or do you have a system where you batch them weekly/monthly? I'm trying to figure out the most realistic approach that I'll actually stick to!

Great discussion everyone! I wanted to add something that might help with organization - I've been using a simple spreadsheet to track all my business expenses in real-time, with columns for date, vendor, amount, category, payment method, and receipt location (physical file vs digital folder). This has been a lifesaver because even if I lose a receipt, I have a record of when and where the expense occurred, which makes it much easier to request duplicate receipts from vendors if needed. Plus, during my audit preparation, I could quickly filter by category or date range to pull together related documentation. One thing I learned the hard way - if you're claiming home office deductions, take photos of your office space and keep records of when you set it up. The IRS wanted to see that my home office was used "regularly and exclusively" for business, and having photos with timestamps really helped establish that timeline. Also, for anyone worried about digital storage - I keep everything in Google Drive with a shared folder that my accountant can access. That way if something happens to me or my computer, my tax prep person can still access all the documentation. Just make sure you trust whoever you're sharing access with!