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don't forget about quarterly estimated taxes for both federal AND state if your self employed!! i totally messed this up my first year and got hit with underpayment penalties from both. even if you end up owing $0 to your state at the end of the year, you might still need to make estimated payments throughout the year based on what you EXPECT to owe.
How much do you have to make before you need to do the quarterly payments? Is there a threshold?
Generally, you need to make quarterly estimated payments if you expect to owe $1,000 or more in federal taxes for the year. For state taxes, it varies by state but most follow a similar threshold - usually somewhere between $500-$1,000 owed for the year. The tricky part with self-employment is that you might hit these thresholds even with relatively modest income because of the 15.3% self-employment tax. With $19,400 in income like the original poster mentioned, they'd likely need to make quarterly payments for federal (SE tax alone would be around $2,740), but state requirements would depend on their specific state's rules and deductions. @975948ffccbc is absolutely right about the penalties - they can really add up if you miss the quarterly deadlines!
Great question! You're absolutely correct that states don't have their own version of the federal self-employment tax. With your $19,400 in income, here's what you need to know: For state income tax, it really depends on your state's specific thresholds and standard deduction amounts. Many states have standard deductions that could potentially bring your taxable income below their filing threshold, especially after you deduct legitimate business expenses from your freelance work. However, don't forget that you'll still owe federal self-employment tax on that $19,400 (minus any business deductions) regardless of whether you owe state income tax. The SE tax is about 15.3% on your net self-employment income, so that's roughly $2,740-$3,000 you'll need to plan for federally. My advice: calculate your net profit after business expenses first, then check your state's specific income tax brackets and standard deduction amounts. Even if you end up owing $0 in state income tax, you're right that you'll still need to file a state return in most cases. Also consider setting aside money for quarterly estimated tax payments next year - both federal and state if applicable - to avoid underpayment penalties!
I'm dealing with this exact same situation right now! Just got my LTR 2645 C letter yesterday and had that immediate panic response, even though we already received our refund back in February ($2,367). This entire thread has been such a lifesaver - I had no idea this was such a widespread issue! Before finding this discussion, I was convinced we had made some terrible mistake on our return or that the IRS was going to come after us for the money back. It's absolutely infuriating that the IRS can have systems sophisticated enough to process millions of returns and distribute refunds correctly, but can't manage basic coordination between their own departments. How do you successfully review, approve, and send out someone's refund, but then weeks later have a separate system sending letters saying the return needs additional review? It's like their left hand doesn't know what their right hand is doing! Reading through all the successful call experiences shared by both taxpayers and tax professionals here, I'm definitely calling first thing tomorrow morning using the direct number on the letter. It's frustrating that we have to spend our time cleaning up their system errors, but at least now I know what to expect and that the agents are very familiar with this widespread glitch. Thank you so much to everyone who took the time to share their experiences and outcomes - this community has been infinitely more helpful than anything I could find on official IRS websites. It really shows the power of community support when dealing with government system failures!
I just joined this community after getting my own LTR 2645 C letter this morning and I'm so grateful to have found this thread! Like everyone else here, I was absolutely panicked when I saw that official IRS envelope, especially since I already received my refund last month ($1,892). Reading through all these experiences has been incredibly reassuring - it's clear this is a massive system coordination failure affecting thousands of taxpayers rather than individual tax issues. The fact that their refund processing can work flawlessly but their notification system is completely out of sync is just embarrassing for a government agency in 2025. I'm definitely planning to call tomorrow morning based on all the successful outcomes shared here. It's ridiculous we have to waste our time fixing their system glitches, but knowing the agents are aware of this widespread issue makes me feel much more confident about the call. Thanks Wesley and everyone else for sharing your experiences - this community support has been a total game-changer for my anxiety levels!
I'm going through this exact same situation right now! Just received my LTR 2645 C letter yesterday and immediately went into panic mode, even though we already got our refund back in March ($1,834). Reading through all these experiences has been incredibly reassuring - it's clear this is a massive IRS system coordination failure rather than individual taxpayer issues. It's honestly mind-boggling that they can successfully process returns and send out refunds, but then their notification system is weeks behind sending contradictory letters. Based on all the successful call experiences shared here, I'm planning to call first thing tomorrow morning using the number on the letter. It's frustrating we have to spend time fixing their system glitches, but at least now I know what to expect and that the agents are familiar with this widespread issue. Thank you to everyone who shared their experiences - this community has been way more helpful than anything on the official IRS website. It's amazing how much anxiety gets reduced when you realize you're not alone in dealing with government system failures!
I went through this exact situation last year and wanted to share what I learned! You're absolutely right that this is essentially an online garage sale situation, not a business. The $600 threshold is correct - that's why they asked for your SSN verification. You'll likely receive a 1099-K, but don't panic! The key thing to remember is that you're only taxed on actual profit, not the gross sales amount. Since you're selling personal clothing items for less than you originally paid (which is almost always the case with used clothes), you won't owe taxes on this income. When you get the 1099-K, you'll report it in TurboTax, but then you'll also enter your cost basis (what you originally paid for the items) to show there was no taxable gain. Don't include the shipping fees in your taxable calculation - those are just pass-through costs. Focus on the actual item sale prices versus what you originally paid. Even without receipts, you can make reasonable estimates of your original purchase prices. A vintage band t-shirt you sold for $25 probably cost you $15-30 originally, a jacket you sold for $40 might have cost $60-80 new, etc. The IRS accepts reasonable estimates for personal items. The most important thing is NOT to just report the full $815 and pay taxes on it - that would mean paying taxes on money that isn't actually taxable income!
This is such a helpful breakdown! I'm in a similar situation and was getting overwhelmed by all the conflicting information online. Quick question - when you say "reasonable estimates" for original purchase prices, do you have any tips for how to approach that? Like, should I err on the conservative side or try to be as accurate as possible to my actual memory of what I paid? I sold mostly thrift store finds that I then resold, so some items I only paid $5-10 for originally but sold for $20-30.
For thrift store finds, you should definitely be honest about what you actually paid! If you bought something at a thrift store for $5 and sold it for $25, that $20 difference would actually be taxable income since you made a real profit. The "personal items sold at a loss" rule applies when you're selling things you bought for personal use at retail prices. Thrift flipping is different - that's more like a side business activity where you're buying items specifically to resell them for profit. You might need to handle those sales differently in TurboTax, possibly as casual business income rather than personal item sales. The good news is that with thrift items, you do have a clear cost basis (what you paid), so the profit calculation is straightforward. Just be accurate about your actual purchase prices - don't inflate them to avoid taxes, as that could cause problems if you're ever audited.
I went through this exact situation last year! The $600 threshold is correct - you'll likely get a 1099-K, but don't worry about it. Since you're selling personal clothing items that you originally bought for your own use, this is treated like a garage sale for tax purposes. The key thing is that you only pay taxes on actual profit, not the full $815. Since you almost certainly paid more for these clothes originally than what you sold them for, you won't owe any taxes on this income. When you file with TurboTax and enter the 1099-K, make sure to select that these were personal items (not business inventory). Then you'll enter your cost basis - reasonable estimates of what you originally paid for each item or category of items. A vintage band t-shirt you sold for $20 probably cost you $25-40 originally, jackets you sold for $35 might have cost $60-80 new, etc. Also, don't include the shipping costs in your profit calculation - those are pass-through expenses that buyers paid to cover actual shipping, not part of your sales income. The most important thing is to NOT just report the full $815 as taxable income - that would mean paying unnecessary taxes on what is essentially a loss from selling your personal belongings!
This is really reassuring to hear from someone who went through the same thing! I'm curious about one detail though - when you estimated your original purchase prices, did you keep any kind of record or documentation of those estimates? I'm wondering if I should write down my reasoning for each estimate (like "vintage band tee sold for $25, estimated original cost $35 based on typical concert merch prices from that era") just in case I ever need to explain my calculations later. Or is that being overly cautious?
Just to make sure we're all on the same page here - are we talking about claiming her as a qualifying relative dependent, not a qualifying child dependent? Because the rules are different for each, right? For a qualifying relative, her gross income must be less than $4,700 (for 2023), but Social Security benefits generally don't count toward this amount unless she has significant other income. Did I understand your situation correctly?
You're absolutely correct - you do NOT report her SSDI on your tax return. Her disability income remains her income, not yours. The fact that you're claiming her as a dependent doesn't change whose income it is. As long as she meets the qualifying relative tests (gross income under $4,700 excluding SSDI, and you provide more than half her support), you're compliant. Keep good records of your support expenses - housing, food, medical costs, utilities, etc. - in case you need to prove the support test later. The IRS is pretty clear on this in Publication 501, but I understand why it can be confusing at first!
This is really helpful clarification! I'm new to this dependency situation and was worried I'd made a mistake. Just to confirm my understanding - when you say "keep good records of support expenses," should I be tracking everything down to grocery receipts and utility bills? I want to make sure I'm documenting the right things in case the IRS ever questions the support test calculation.
Yes, you should definitely keep detailed records! I'd recommend tracking: housing costs (rent/mortgage portion attributable to her), utilities (her share), groceries specifically for her, medical expenses you pay, clothing, transportation costs, etc. You don't need every single receipt, but having monthly summaries with supporting documentation is smart. I use a simple spreadsheet that breaks down categories by month - makes it easy to show I'm providing over 50% of her total support. The IRS worksheet in Pub 501 gives you a good framework for what expenses to track.
PaulineW
For those who want a quick rule of thumb, many CPAs suggest salary should be at least 1/3 of S Corp distributions for service-based businesses. So if you want to take $90k in distributions, your salary should be at least $30k. This isn't foolproof but supposedly comes from patterns in what triggers IRS scrutiny. Just passing along what my CPA told me!
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Annabel Kimball
ā¢That's dangerously low for most service businesses. The IRS has successfully challenged many cases where owners took less than 50% as salary. Your "rule of thumb" might work for businesses with significant non-owner revenue sources, but risky for consultants, professionals, etc.
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PaulineW
ā¢You're right that it depends entirely on the business type. I should have been clearer that mine is actually a retail business where much of the profit comes from product sales rather than my direct services. The 1/3 ratio works in my specific situation because I have employees doing most of the work and significant inventory investment. For service professionals like consultants, lawyers, doctors, etc., you're absolutely right that the ratio needs to be much higher, probably closer to 70-80% salary.
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Sarah Ali
The confusion around S Corp profit distribution formulas is totally understandable - there really isn't one "correct" equation because the IRS deliberately keeps "reasonable compensation" somewhat subjective. What I've found helpful is thinking of it in terms of what you'd pay to replace yourself. If your S Corp couldn't function without you, then most of the profit should probably be salary. But if you've built systems, have employees, or significant capital investments generating revenue, you can justify a higher distribution percentage. A practical approach: Start with market salary data for your role/industry (sites like PayScale, Glassdoor, or BLS.gov), then adjust based on your actual hours worked and responsibilities. Document your reasoning - if the IRS ever questions it, you want to show you made a good faith effort to be reasonable. One thing that's helped me is tracking what percentage of revenue comes directly from my personal work versus other factors (equipment, employees, systems, etc.). The higher your personal contribution, the higher your salary should be relative to distributions.
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Fatima Al-Farsi
ā¢This is really helpful advice, especially the part about documenting your reasoning. I'm new to S Corp elections and have been paralyzed by analysis trying to find the "perfect" formula. Your approach of starting with market data and then adjusting based on actual contribution makes so much more sense than trying to find some magic percentage. I like the idea of tracking what percentage of revenue comes from my personal work - that seems like concrete documentation I could maintain. Do you keep any specific records or is it more of a general assessment? I want to make sure I'm prepared if questions ever come up.
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