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Just went through this exact situation! The IRS will send it to whatever address they have on file, which should be from your most recent return. But here's what really helped me - I called my local IRS Taxpayer Assistance Center and explained the address change situation. They were actually able to update my address over the phone and confirm where the letter would be sent. Way faster than waiting for Form 8822 to process. You can find your local office on IRS.gov under "Contact Your Local Office." Worth a shot if you're worried about timing!
@Sofia Morales That s'such a good tip about the local Taxpayer Assistance Center! I didn t'even know you could update your address over the phone with them. Definitely going to try this - beats waiting weeks for the 8822 form to process when you re'already stressed about the verification timeline. Thanks for sharing!
Had a similar situation last year when I moved mid-tax season! One thing that really helped was also updating my address with ID.me directly through their website, not just with the IRS. Sometimes there's a disconnect between what the IRS has on file and what ID.me is using for verification purposes. Log into your ID.me account and make sure your current address is listed there too. Also, if you're really worried about timing, you might want to reach out to whoever currently lives at your old address (if possible) to give them a heads up that you might get some IRS mail there - most people are understanding about forwarding important tax documents. The verification process is stressful enough without worrying about mail delivery!
Whatever you do, DON'T file without the IP PIN if you've been issued one in previous years. My cousin did that and it created a HUGE mess. His return was rejected, then flagged for potential identity theft (ironically), and it took him almost 8 months to get his refund. If you absolutely cannot get your IP PIN before the deadline, file an additional extension request (Form 4868) with a paper explanation of your situation attached. That at least documents that you tried to comply with the deadline.
Can you actually file a second extension though? I thought you only got one extension per tax year. Also doesn't that extension request need to be filed before the original tax day in April?
You're right to be confused about the extension rules. You can't actually file a second automatic extension - Form 4868 only gives you until October 15th, which is a one-time deal. However, if you have a legitimate reason (like not receiving your required IP PIN), you can request additional time by writing a letter to the IRS explaining your situation and attaching it to your return when you do file. The key is documenting that you made good faith efforts to comply but were prevented by circumstances beyond your control. Keep records of your attempts to contact the IRS, any error messages from trying to retrieve your IP PIN online, etc. This won't guarantee penalty relief, but it gives you grounds to request it later if they do assess late filing penalties.
I went through this exact same nightmare last year! Here's what worked for me: First, try calling the IRS Identity Protection Specialized Unit at 800-908-4490 early in the morning (7 AM Eastern sharp). If that doesn't work, you can also try the IP PIN retrieval tool on IRS.gov, but make sure you have your prior year AGI and other verification info ready. One thing that helped me was keeping detailed records of every attempt to contact them - dates, times, reference numbers, etc. This became crucial later when I had to request penalty relief. Also, definitely check that your address is current with the IRS by filing Form 8822 if you've moved recently. The IP PIN gets mailed to whatever address they have on file, which might not be updated even if you filed your return with a new address. Whatever you do, don't file without the PIN - it will just get rejected and create more delays. If you're really running out of time before your extension deadline, document everything you've tried and consider writing a letter to the IRS explaining the situation when you do finally file.
Based on what you've described, it sounds like you should be able to claim your daughter as a qualifying child dependent! Since she's 20 and a full-time college student, she meets the extended age requirement (under 24 for students). Her dorm living counts as temporary absence for education - she's still considered to live with you. And if you're covering 75% of her expenses while she only earned $8,200, you're definitely providing more than half her support. Just make sure when you calculate total support, you include everything - tuition, room & board, books, food, medical expenses, transportation, etc. Her $8,200 job income needs to be less than half of that total amount. From what you've shared, it sounds like her total expenses are way more than $16,400, so you should be good! Don't forget to also look into the American Opportunity Tax Credit when you file - you can get up to $2,500 in education credits for her college expenses since you'll be claiming her as a dependent.
This is really helpful! I'm new to this whole dependent claiming thing and wasn't sure about the dorm situation. So even though my son lives on campus 8 months of the year, that still counts as living with me for tax purposes? That seems weird but I'll take it! Also good point about calculating ALL the expenses - I was only thinking about tuition but there's so much more like meal plans, textbooks, even his car insurance that I still pay. Thanks for breaking this down in simple terms!
Yes, you should definitely be able to claim your daughter as a qualifying child dependent! At 20 years old and enrolled full-time, she meets the extended age test for students (under 24). The dorm living actually works in your favor - temporary absences for education are considered as still living with you for tax purposes. The key thing to focus on is the support test. Since you're covering about 75% of her expenses and she only earned $8,200, you're clearly providing more than half her support. Just make sure when you're calculating this, you include ALL expenses: tuition, room & board, books, food, medical, transportation, personal expenses, etc. Her income needs to be less than half of that total amount. One important tip: make sure your daughter knows to check the box "Someone can claim you as a dependent" if she files her own return for that $8,200 income. She can still file to get back any taxes withheld, but she can't claim her own exemption if you're claiming her. Also don't miss out on the American Opportunity Tax Credit - you could get up to $2,500 in education credits since you'll be claiming her as a dependent and paying her college expenses. That's a significant tax benefit on top of the dependent exemption!
This is exactly the kind of clear breakdown I needed! I've been stressing about this for weeks. One follow-up question though - when you mention calculating ALL expenses, does that include things like her cell phone bill that I pay, or clothes I buy her? I want to make sure I'm not missing anything that could help prove I'm providing more than half her support. Also, should I be keeping receipts for all this stuff in case the IRS asks for documentation?
Just wanted to throw this out there - if you're getting a refund of around $1k on $35k income, that's pretty average. But if you really want to change it, the easiest thing is to use the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator on their website. It's free and will tell you exactly what to put on your W-4. https://www.irs.gov/individuals/tax-withholding-estimator It's designed specifically for this situation and walks you through everything step by step. I use it every January to make sure I'm on track.
I tried using that IRS tool last year and it was so complicated! Asked me like 50 questions I didn't know the answers to. Has it gotten any easier to use?
It has improved a bit! They simplified some sections, but you're right that it still asks a lot of questions. The key is to have your most recent pay stub and last year's tax return in front of you while using it. Most of the answers come straight from those documents. If you don't have complicated taxes (no investments, rental properties, etc.), you can skip some sections. The basic info they need is your filing status, income, and current withholding amount from your pay stub. The results page gives you specific instructions for your W-4 that you can print out and follow.
Keep in mind that if you adjust your W-4 to get close to zero refund, you're walking a fine line. If you miscalculate or your income changes, you might end up owing money at tax time. Some people prefer getting a refund as a forced savings mechanism. That said, $1000 on $35,000 income isn't crazy high for a refund. If you really want to reduce it, try changing your W-4 to claim an additional $4000 in deductions (not the full $5-6k recommended above) and see how that affects your paychecks. You can always adjust again mid-year if needed.
That's a really good point. Maybe I'll take a more cautious approach first. Would rather get a small refund than owe. I'll try the $4000 in deductions and see how it goes. Thanks!
Smart approach! Starting conservative is definitely the way to go. I made the mistake of being too aggressive with my W-4 adjustments a few years back and ended up owing $800 at tax time. It's much easier to adjust again mid-year if you're still getting too much back than to scramble for money you owe in April. Also, don't forget that your withholding needs might change if you get a raise, bonus, or your life situation changes (marriage, buying a house, etc.). I usually check mine every January and again in July to make sure I'm still on track.
Anastasia Ivanova
I had some confusion with Form 4952 last year. Anyone know if tax software like TurboTax or H&R Block can handle this form correctly, especially the carryover calculations across multiple years?
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Sean Murphy
ā¢Most tax software can handle Form 4952, but they often struggle with multi-year tracking of investment interest carryovers if you haven't been using the same software consistently. TurboTax Premium does a decent job, but you need to manually enter carryover amounts from prior years - it doesn't automatically pull them unless you used TurboTax for those years too. I've found FreeTaxUSA actually handles 4952 surprisingly well for a lower-cost option.
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Luca Marino
This is a complex situation that many investors face when they discover investment interest deductions later. Let me add a few practical points that might help: First, before spending time and money on amendments, calculate whether the deductions would actually benefit you in those prior years. If you took the standard deduction and your total itemized deductions (including the investment interest) wouldn't exceed the standard deduction for those years, amendments won't help. Second, keep in mind that investment interest expense is subject to the 2% AGI threshold if you're dealing with years before 2018, which adds another layer of complexity to whether amendments are worthwhile. For your current year planning, since you're expecting substantial capital gains, consider the timing of your stock sales. You might benefit from spreading sales across tax years to optimize your investment income and better utilize any carried-forward deductions you can establish. Also, don't forget that investment interest expense includes more than just margin interest - it can include interest on loans used to purchase investment property, points paid on investment property loans, and other investment-related borrowing costs. Make sure you're capturing all eligible expenses in your calculations. The key takeaway is to start filing Form 4952 this year regardless of your prior year situation, so you don't face this documentation gap again in the future.
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Ava Hernandez
ā¢This is exactly the kind of comprehensive advice I was looking for! The point about calculating whether amendments would actually exceed the standard deduction is crucial - I hadn't thought about that. For my 2020-2022 returns, I definitely took the standard deduction, so even if I could amend within the time limits, it might not be worth it unless my total itemized deductions (including the investment interest) would be higher. The timing strategy for stock sales is interesting too. Since I'm planning a substantial sale this year, maybe I should consider splitting it between this year and next year to optimize how I can use any investment interest deductions I establish going forward. One question though - you mentioned the 2% AGI threshold for pre-2018 years. Does that mean investment interest expense was subject to that limitation back then, or are you thinking of a different type of deduction? I thought investment interest was always treated separately from miscellaneous itemized deductions.
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