I've been dealing with IRS delays myself and found that persistence with the phone system really does pay off eventually. One thing that helped me was calling the IRS Collections line at 800-829-7650 instead of the main number - it sounds counterintuitive, but when they answer, you can explain that you're calling about a refund delay and they'll often transfer you to the right department. The wait times seemed shorter on this line in my experience. Also, if you're comfortable with it, try reaching out to your local IRS Taxpayer Assistance Center. Even though they're not taking walk-ins right now, some locations will take calls and can sometimes provide more detailed information than the national hotlines. One more tip - when you do get through to someone, ask them to put detailed notes in your account about what they find and what they tell you. That way if you need to call again, the next agent can see the history instead of starting from scratch. I learned this the hard way after having to explain my situation multiple times to different agents. The 3-month delay you're experiencing is unfortunately pretty common right now, but don't give up. Your refund will come through!

I went through this exact same nightmare last year and finally got results using a multi-pronged approach. Here's what worked for me: **Phone Strategy:** Call 800-829-1040 at exactly 7:00 AM EST on Tuesday or Wednesday. Press 1 for English, then immediately press 2-1-3-2 without waiting for the prompts to finish completely. When it asks about forms, don't say anything - just wait in complete silence for about 20 seconds and it should transfer you to a live agent. **Documentation Tip:** Before calling, gather your filing confirmation, any IRS notices you've received, and write down your exact filing date. When you do reach an agent, be very specific: "I filed on [date], it's been X days, and I need to know the specific reason for the delay." This gets much better results than just asking "where's my refund?" **Backup Options:** - Try the Taxpayer Advocate Service at 877-777-4778 (mention if the delay is causing any financial hardship) - Call the Collections line at 800-829-7650 and ask to be transferred to refund inquiry - Contact your Congressional representative's office - they have caseworkers who deal with IRS issues **What to Expect:** 3-month delays are unfortunately common right now, especially if your return has certain credits or needs manual review. The agents can see much more detail than the "Where's My Refund" tool shows. Don't give up - persistence really does pay off with the IRS phone system!

idk why they make this stuff so complicated fr

Actually, there's one more thing to check - make sure you're looking at your Adjusted Gross Income (AGI), not your total gross income. After deductions like health insurance premiums, retirement contributions, etc., your AGI might be lower than that $65k. Also, the income limits I see others mentioning look right for 2024 tax year. If you're really close to the threshold, definitely consider maxing out any pre-tax deductions you can still make for 2024!

Great question and really timely for me too! I just went through this exact scenario moving some Bitcoin from Fidelity to Robinhood last month. The key thing everyone's mentioned is absolutely right - Robinhood will NOT receive your cost basis automatically. When the crypto arrives in your Robinhood account, it will just show the current market value as if you bought it that day, which is completely wrong for tax purposes. Here's my step-by-step process that worked well: 1. Before transferring, export ALL transaction history from Fidelity (CSV format if possible) 2. Screenshot your current holdings showing original purchase dates and amounts 3. Document the exact amount you're transferring and the date 4. Save the blockchain transaction hash when the transfer completes 5. Create a simple spreadsheet linking your original Fidelity purchases to your new Robinhood holdings One thing I learned the hard way - Fidelity's transaction history doesn't stay available forever after you close positions, so grab those records while you still can access them easily. I use a simple Google Sheet with columns for Date, Platform, Amount, Price Paid, Transaction Hash, and Notes. The good news is that crypto-to-crypto transfers aren't taxable events, so you won't owe anything just for moving between platforms. But you definitely need that original cost basis info for when you eventually sell on Robinhood.

As someone who's been through multiple crypto transfers between platforms, I can't stress enough how important it is to keep meticulous records BEFORE you initiate any transfer. I learned this lesson the hard way when I moved some Ethereum from Coinbase to Fidelity a couple years ago without proper documentation. Here's what I wish I had done from the start: 1. **Export everything immediately** - Don't wait until after the transfer. Get your complete transaction history from Fidelity right now in CSV format. Include purchase dates, amounts, fees, and any DCA transactions. 2. **Use blockchain explorers** - Tools like Etherscan (for Ethereum) or Blockchain.info (for Bitcoin) can help you verify transfer details and provide permanent records of the transaction hashes. 3. **Consider tax software early** - Even if you don't plan to sell soon, setting up with something like TaxBit or CoinTracker now can save you major headaches later. They can import your data and track cost basis automatically. 4. **Document your method** - Write down whether you're using FIFO, LIFO, or specific identification for your cost basis calculations. Be consistent and stick with it. The transfer itself won't trigger taxes, but when you eventually sell on Robinhood, you'll need to report the gains/losses based on your original Fidelity purchase prices, not what Robinhood shows as your "cost basis." Trust me, spending an hour organizing this now will save you days of stress during tax season!

I'm confused about one thing - if the gross distribution wasn't taxable, does that mean you never got the money? I have a similar situation with an old 401k.

Just to add some reassurance here - I work in retirement plan administration and see these situations all the time. When you left your previous employer, if your 401(k) balance was relatively small (usually under $5,000), the plan administrator likely executed what's called a "force-out" rollover. This means they automatically moved your funds to an IRA to reduce administrative costs for the plan. The fact that you have both code G and code H suggests you might have had both traditional pre-tax contributions and Roth after-tax contributions in your old 401(k). The traditional portion would have gone to a traditional IRA (code G) and the Roth portion to a Roth IRA (code H). You should have received notices about this rollover, but they might have gone to an old address. I'd recommend checking with companies like Fidelity, Vanguard, or Charles Schwab to see if they have any accounts in your name that you weren't aware of. Many force-out rollovers end up with these large providers. Since the taxable amount is $0, you really don't need to stress about amending your return. The IRS gets the same 1099-R you received and their systems can see it was a non-taxable rollover.

I can relate to this stressful situation! I had a similar experience two years ago when I received a late K-1 from a real estate investment trust after already filing an amended return for a corrected 1099-B. The sequential processing really is standard - they won't even look at your second amendment until the first one is completely processed. One thing I learned that might help you: when you make that manual payment for your second amendment (which I definitely recommend), make sure to include a note or reference indicating it's for your 2023 amended return. I used the "additional information" field in IRS Direct Pay to note "Payment for 2023 1040X filed 4/10/2024" just to create a clear paper trail. Also, don't be surprised if your refund or final balance takes even longer to sort out after they process everything. In my case, they processed both amendments but it took an additional 4-6 weeks for them to apply all the payments correctly and send me the final account transcript. The good news is that once they start processing, they're usually pretty accurate with the calculations. The key thing is you did everything right by filing amendments as soon as you received the additional documents. That protects you from any penalties for underreporting income, even if the processing takes forever.

I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now - filed early in February, then had to amend in March for a corrected 1099-R, and just last week had to file ANOTHER amendment for a late K-1 from a partnership. The stress is real! What's helped me cope with the uncertainty is setting up a simple tracking spreadsheet with dates for when I filed each return/amendment, when documents arrived, and payment amounts. It gives me something concrete to reference instead of just worrying. I took everyone's advice here and made a manual payment for my second amendment through IRS Direct Pay yesterday. The system was pretty straightforward - I selected "Form 1040" for tax year 2023 and added "Payment for 2023 1040X filed [date]" in the additional info field. The hardest part for me has been the complete lack of visibility into what's happening. The "Where's My Amended Return" tool is basically useless when you have multiple amendments. But reading everyone's experiences here makes me feel much better about the long processing times being normal rather than a sign something went wrong. Thanks to everyone who shared their timelines and advice - it's incredibly helpful to know other people have successfully navigated this exact situation!