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OP, I strongly recommend registering as an LLC even though you can file Schedule C. The liability protection is worth it for woodworking where clients could potentially get injured from your work. I learned this lesson after a client tried to sue me when their kid got a splinter from a table I made!
LLC doesn't completely protect you from everything though. You still need good business insurance, especially for woodworking/construction. The LLC mainly helps separate business debts from personal assets but won't shield you if someone claims negligence in your actual work.
Jessica, congrats on your growing woodworking business! Since you're making substantial income now, I'd also recommend looking into business insurance if you haven't already. General liability coverage is relatively inexpensive but crucial when you're doing installations in clients' homes - especially kitchen work where there's potential for property damage or injury. One more tax tip that helped me when I transitioned my side business: start putting aside 25-30% of each payment you receive into a separate savings account for taxes. Between federal income tax, state tax (if applicable), and that 15.3% self-employment tax Isaiah mentioned, it adds up quickly. I learned this the hard way my first year when I had to scramble to pay a big tax bill! Also keep detailed records of your business activities - not just receipts but also client contracts, project timelines, and communications. The IRS loves documentation that shows you're operating as a legitimate business rather than just a hobby that occasionally makes money.
This is really helpful advice about setting aside money for taxes! I'm curious about the business vs hobby distinction you mentioned - are there specific criteria the IRS uses to determine if it's a legitimate business? I'm worried since I started this as a hobby that they might question whether it's really a business now, especially since I still have my regular job. How do you document that you're operating as a real business?
Just want to throw out there that if you're making decent money as a freelancer (sounds like you are), it might be worth hiring a CPA who specializes in self-employment. I tried all the apps and still ended up with tax issues. I now pay my CPA about $1200/year and she handles EVERYTHING - quarterly estimates, annual filing, business expense tracking, and tax planning. She's actually saved me more than her fee by finding deductions and helping me set up a Solo 401k that reduced my tax liability by thousands. The peace of mind is worth it, and I can focus on my actual work instead of stressing about tax calculations. Sometimes the best app is no app!
Great thread! I've been using a hybrid approach that might work for you. I use Wave Accounting (free) to track income and expenses throughout the year, then export everything to TaxAct Self-Employed for actual filing. Wave automatically categorizes most transactions and has a solid mobile app for receipt scanning. It doesn't handle quarterly payments directly, but it gives you really accurate profit/loss reports that make calculating quarterlies super easy. I just use the IRS safe harbor rule (pay 100% of last year's tax liability divided by 4) to avoid underpayment penalties. The combo costs me about $50/year total vs. hundreds for the all-in-one solutions, and I've never had issues with accuracy. Plus Wave's customer support is actually responsive when you need help, unlike some of the bigger names. For your multi-state situation, TaxAct handles that well and walks you through the allocations step by step. Might be worth trying since both have free tiers you can test out first.
You might be able to bypass this entirely. I believe you can create an account on the IRS website (if you haven't already) and view your tax transcript online. This might show the status of your refund without needing the trace number from H&R Block. It's probably worth trying that approach while you're still trying to get the information from them.
I went through this exact nightmare with H&R Block two months ago! What finally worked for me was asking to speak with the office manager and specifically requesting the "DCN (Document Control Number)" or "transmission confirmation receipt." Don't let them tell you they don't have it - every electronically filed return generates one. If the front desk staff can't help, insist on speaking with someone who actually prepared returns during tax season, not just seasonal customer service. Also, check any paperwork they gave you when you filed - sometimes it's buried in the fine print on page 2 or 3 of your filing receipt. The IRS requires them to provide this by law, so if they keep stonewalling you, mention that you're aware it's a legal requirement under IRS e-file regulations. That usually gets them moving pretty quickly!
I went through almost the exact same thing last year with a forgotten 1098-INT for $42. I was stressed about it for weeks before finally deciding to file the amended return. What helped me make the decision was realizing that the IRS matching system will eventually catch discrepancies like this, even small ones. When they do, you might get a notice asking for the additional tax plus interest charges. While the amounts are tiny, dealing with IRS correspondence can be more stressful than just proactively fixing it. I ended up e-filing the 1040-X through TurboTax, paid about $9 in additional tax, and got confirmation from the IRS about 9 weeks later. The whole process was much less painful than I expected, and now I don't have to worry about getting a surprise notice in my mailbox. For $35, you're looking at maybe $7-10 in additional tax depending on your bracket. Since you can now e-file amended returns, I'd personally just take care of it and move on. The peace of mind is worth more than the small amount of money involved.
This is exactly the kind of real-world experience that helps so much! I'm actually leaning toward just filing the 1040-X now after reading all these responses. The fact that multiple people have gone through this exact situation with small interest amounts and had smooth experiences with e-filing the amendment is really reassuring. You make a great point about the IRS matching system eventually catching it anyway. Even though the financial impact is tiny, getting a notice later would probably cause me more stress than just taking care of it proactively now. Plus, knowing I can e-file it through TurboTax (which I used for my original return) makes it seem much less daunting than I initially thought. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - this has been incredibly helpful for someone who was initially panicking over $35!
I just want to add my perspective as someone who works in tax preparation - you're absolutely right to be concerned about proper reporting, but this really is a very minor issue. The $35 interest income would result in maybe $7-12 in additional tax depending on your bracket. The IRS does have automated matching systems that compare your reported income to the forms they receive from banks and other institutions. However, they typically don't pursue discrepancies under a certain threshold because the cost of collection exceeds the revenue. That said, being proactive is always the safer approach. Since you can now e-file amended returns, my recommendation would be to go ahead and file the 1040-X. It takes about 15-20 minutes if you use the same tax software you used originally, and you'll have complete peace of mind. The alternative is potentially getting a notice in 1-2 years asking for the small amount plus minimal interest - not a disaster, but probably more stressful than just handling it now. Either way, this definitely won't affect your future filings or put you at risk for an audit. The IRS reserves audits for much more significant issues than $35 in unreported interest income.
This is really helpful advice from someone who actually works in tax prep! I appreciate you explaining the automated matching systems and the cost-benefit analysis the IRS does on small discrepancies. It makes me feel much better knowing that even if I didn't file an amendment, this wouldn't be the kind of thing that leads to serious consequences. That said, I think you're right about the proactive approach. After reading everyone's experiences here, I'm convinced that just filing the 1040-X is the way to go. The fact that it only takes 15-20 minutes with tax software and gives complete peace of mind seems like a no-brainer compared to potentially dealing with IRS correspondence later. I'm definitely going to use TurboTax (what I used originally) to file the amendment this weekend. Thanks for the professional perspective - it's exactly what I needed to hear to feel confident about moving forward!
A Man D Mortal
just update ur address when u file ur taxes, the w2 address is just where they mailed it. doesnt affect anything else. i moved 3 times last year lol and just used my current address when i filed. got my refund no problem!!!
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Declan Ramirez
ā¢What tax software did you use? Did you have to do anything special to indicate you had moved during the year?
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Sadie Benitez
The address on your W2 is just where your employer mailed the form - it doesn't determine where you file from or affect your tax liability. You should absolutely use your current address when filing your taxes, even if it doesn't match what's printed on the W2. Since you moved during 2024, you'll need to prorate your county taxes based on how long you lived in each location. Keep documentation of your move date (lease agreement, utility bills, etc.) in case you need to verify the timing later. The IRS deals with people moving all the time, so this won't raise any red flags. The key thing is that your tax obligation is based on where you actually lived during the tax year, not where your employer happened to send your W2. Using your current address is not only allowed but correct in your situation.
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Justin Trejo
ā¢This is really helpful! I'm actually in a very similar situation - moved halfway through 2024 and my W2 has my old address. Quick question though - when you say "prorate your county taxes," do you mean I need to calculate exactly how many days I lived in each county? Or is it more like which county I lived in for the majority of the year? I'm worried about getting the math wrong and having issues later.
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