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Ask the community...

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Ugh, I feel your pain! I'm dealing with a similar situation - filed my original return in February, had to amend in May, and now I'm staring at this 810 freeze code too. The uncertainty is the worst part. Have you tried calling the IRS hotline to get any additional info? I know the wait times are brutal but sometimes they can give you a better sense of where things stand in the process.

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Dylan Wright

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I tried calling but gave up after being on hold for 3+ hours 😩 The automated system just keeps saying "high call volume" and then disconnects. Has anyone actually gotten through recently? Starting to think the transcript checking might be our best bet for now

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RaΓΊl Mora

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Same situation here! Filed in January, amended in March, and just got the 810 freeze code last week. It's so frustrating not knowing exactly where we stand in the process. I've been checking my transcript obsessively but it's hard to decode all these codes. The waiting is definitely the hardest part - especially when you're expecting a refund and have bills to pay. Hang in there, hopefully we'll both get some movement soon! 🀞

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James Maki

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Totally feel you on the obsessive transcript checking! πŸ˜… I've been refreshing mine like every other day hoping for some change. The uncertainty is killer when you're counting on that refund. At least we're all in this together - misery loves company right? Here's hoping the IRS picks up the pace soon! 🀞

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The IRS address system is like having three different GPS systems in your car all giving different directions. Their internal database (where they actually send mail from), their online portal information, and their most recently processed return can all have different addresses. In your case, since you filed recently, they'll almost certainly send it to the address on your 2023 return, but there's a lag between filing and when their systems update. I've been through this merry-go-round multiple times with moves. If you need immediate access, calling is your best bet - it's like having a human navigator instead of relying on outdated maps.

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Rudy Cenizo

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I went through this exact scenario last year and can confirm what others have said - they sent my verification letter to the address on my most recent tax return, not what was showing on their website. The key thing to remember is that the IRS website often lags behind their actual processing system by several weeks. Since you filed on February 3rd, your return should be fully processed by now, so the verification letter will go to whatever address you used on that return. One tip: if you have access to both addresses, I'd recommend having someone check both locations just to be safe. The letter is pretty distinctive - it's in a plain white envelope with "Department of the Treasury" as the return address. Also, if you don't receive it within 10 business days, you can call and request a new one to be sent. Don't stress too much about it - this address confusion is super common and they're used to dealing with it.

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Zadie Patel

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This is really helpful - thank you for sharing your actual experience! I'm in a similar boat and have been worried sick about this. Quick question: when you say the letter is in a "plain white envelope with Department of the Treasury" - does it have any other identifying marks? I want to make sure I don't accidentally throw it away thinking it's junk mail. Also, did you have to do anything special when you called to request a new letter, or was it pretty straightforward? I'm preparing myself for a long hold time but want to know what info they'll need from me.

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Toot-n-Mighty

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Has anyone here used the Retirement Tax Worksheets from IRS Publication 575? I had a similar 1099-R situation and that publication helped me figure out the taxable vs. non-taxable portions. The key is knowing whether you made after-tax contributions (which you'd need records for) or if everything was pre-tax. Also, Box 7 on your 1099-R has a code that can give you clues about the distribution type. What code is in Box 7 of your form?

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Rudy Cenizo

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Box 7 on my 1099-R has the code "7" in it. Not sure what that means exactly. As far as I know, all my contributions were pre-tax, but I'll have to double check my old statements. I'll look up that IRS Publication 575 you mentioned - thanks for the tip!

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Toot-n-Mighty

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Code 7 typically means a normal distribution, no known exceptions to the additional tax. So if you're under 59Β½, you're likely subject to the 10% early withdrawal penalty unless you qualify for an exception. If all your contributions were pre-tax (which is most common with 401k plans), then unfortunately the entire distribution is typically taxable. Publication 575 has worksheets that can help confirm this. Your plan administrator should also be able to tell you if you ever made after-tax contributions, which would give you some non-taxable basis.

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Ava Thompson

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I went through this exact same situation a few years ago and it's definitely frustrating! When Box 2a is blank with "taxable amount not determined" checked, it usually happens when the plan administrator doesn't have complete records of your contribution history or basis in the account. Here's what I learned: You'll need to determine the taxable amount yourself using your contribution records. Since you mentioned it was a traditional 401k with pre-tax contributions for 8 years, the entire $42,800 is likely taxable as ordinary income. However, I'd strongly recommend double-checking a few things: 1. Pull out all your old 401k statements to verify you never made any after-tax contributions (sometimes called "designated Roth contributions" or "non-deductible contributions") 2. Check if your employer ever made any after-tax contributions on your behalf 3. Look at Box 5 on your 1099-R - if there's an amount there, it represents any after-tax contributions that wouldn't be taxable The good news is that medical expenses and home repairs might qualify you for exceptions to the 10% early withdrawal penalty if you're under 59Β½. Medical expenses that exceed 7.5% of your adjusted gross income can be an exception. Keep all your receipts and documentation! I'd recommend consulting with a tax professional for your specific situation, but at least now you know what direction to head in.

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This is really helpful, thank you! I just checked my 1099-R and Box 5 is completely empty, so I guess that confirms no after-tax contributions. Looking back at my old statements, everything does appear to be pre-tax contributions like I thought. One question about the penalty exceptions - you mentioned medical expenses over 7.5% of AGI. Does that mean if my adjusted gross income is around $65,000 this year, I'd need medical expenses over about $4,875 to qualify for the exception? I had some major dental work done ($3,200) plus some other medical bills, but I'm not sure if I'll hit that threshold. Do I need to have paid these expenses in the same year I took the distribution, or can they be from previous years? Also, for the home repairs - are there specific types that qualify, or does any home improvement work count toward the penalty exception?

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Fiona Gallagher

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your gonna drive yourself crazy checking transcripts all the time. just use taxr.ai, its literally a dollar and tells you exactly whats happening and when to expect updates. best money i ever spent fr

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Thais Soares

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for real? might have to check that out

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Fiona Gallagher

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changed the game for me no cap πŸ’― way better than trying to figure everything out yourself

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Caesar Grant

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Welcome to the tax filing world! πŸŽ‰ The cycle code system can be confusing at first but you'll get the hang of it. Since you're on weekly updates (that 05 at the end), just remember Fridays are your friend - that's when you'll see any changes. Don't stress too much about checking constantly, the IRS moves at their own pace regardless of how often we refresh our screens lol

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Luca Esposito

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Whatever you do, DON'T ignore the notice! The IRS doesn't forget and they'll eventually come after you for anything you owe plus interest and penalties. I learned this the hard way. πŸ˜“ One question - did you claim any tax credits like Earned Income Credit or American Opportunity Credit? Those are super common triggers for CP24 notices because they have strict eligibility requirements.

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Nia Thompson

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100% this. I ignored a CP24 thinking "it's just a small amount" and two years later got hit with a way bigger bill because of accumulated interest. Deal with it now!

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Lena Kowalski

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I went through something very similar last year! The key thing with a CP24 is to carefully read the "Explanation of Changes" section - it should break down exactly what they adjusted line by line. In my case, I had miscalculated the Child Tax Credit because I didn't realize there was an income phase-out that affected my eligibility. The notice showed the original amount I claimed versus what I was actually eligible for. The August 20th deadline is important, but here's what many people don't realize: if you agree with their changes, you don't actually need to do anything! The CP24 is just informing you of the correction they made. You only need to respond if you disagree and want to challenge their adjustment. Before panicking about the deadline, take time to review your original return against what they changed. If their math is right (which it usually is), then you're already done - no further action needed. If you think they made an error, THAT'S when you'd want to use one of the services others mentioned to help you respond properly. Don't redo your entire return unless you're absolutely certain the IRS made a mistake AND you have documentation to prove it.

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