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The IRS does not require individuals to file a zero return if your income is under the standard deduction. But as a tax preparer I often recommend filing anyway for 3 key reasons: 1) statute of limitations starts running when you file (protecting you from future audits), 2) establishes income history for loans/benefits, and 3) prevents the IRS from creating a substitute return for you (which never works in your favor).
That's really interesting about the substitute return thing - I had no idea the IRS would just create a return for you! Does that happen often? And what do you mean about the statute of limitations?
Substitute returns typically happen when the IRS receives income documents (like W-2s or 1099s) for you but you haven't filed. They're rare for people with truly zero income but can happen if there's any reported income they know about. The problem is the IRS only includes income, not deductions or credits you're entitled to, so you almost always end up with a higher tax bill. Regarding the statute of limitations, the IRS generally has 3 years from the date you file to audit your return. If you never file, there's no statute of limitations, meaning they could theoretically come back 10+ years later with questions. Filing starts that 3-year clock, even for a zero return, giving you protection and closure for that tax year.
Based on what you've described about your mom's situation, she's likely not legally required to file a federal return since she had no income and the art business resulted in a net loss rather than profit. However, I'd strongly recommend she file anyway for several important reasons. First, that $2,400 business loss could be valuable for future tax years. Business losses can be carried forward to offset income when she does start earning again, potentially saving her money down the road. But she needs to file this year to establish and document those losses. Second, filing creates a paper trail that can be helpful later for things like loan applications, benefit eligibility, or even just proving her income status for various programs. Many people don't realize how often you need to show tax returns as proof of income (or lack thereof). At 58 and single, she's definitely not required to file with zero income, but the potential benefits of filing likely outweigh the minimal effort involved. You might also want to check if she qualifies for any refundable credits - sometimes people with little to no income can still get credits that result in refunds. The good news is that a zero-income return is typically very straightforward to file, and many free filing options are available for her income level.
This is such helpful advice! I really appreciate you breaking down the business loss carryforward thing - I had no idea that was even possible. The part about creating a paper trail makes total sense too, especially after reading about other people's experiences with loans and stuff. One quick follow-up question: when you mention "free filing options for her income level," do you know what the income threshold is for those programs? And would the art business expenses complicate things even if she uses free filing software? I'm just trying to figure out if this is something we can handle ourselves or if we need to find a tax preparer. Thanks again for such a thorough explanation!
My experience with Navy Federal for tax refunds has been significantly better compared to my previous credit union. With my old credit union, they would consistently hold the funds until exactly the DDD regardless of when they received the ACH notification. Last year, my Navy Federal account received the deposit 36 hours before the official date on my transcript. The process was also much smoother than when I had Bank of America, which once placed a 5-day hold on my tax refund for "verification purposes" despite it being a government direct deposit.
Did you have to set up anything special with your Navy Federal account to get the early deposit? I just opened an account with them specifically for my refund this year.
Based on my experience with Navy Federal over the past three tax seasons, I can confirm they typically release refunds 1-2 days early, but I'd recommend setting realistic expectations. What I've found helpful is checking your IRS transcript first thing in the morning on the day before your DDD - if the 846 code shows up, there's a good chance NFCU will release it that day. Also worth noting that if you're expecting a large refund (over $5,000), there might be additional verification steps that could delay things regardless of your bank. I've had refunds as early as 48 hours before the official date, but I've also had them arrive exactly on the DDD. The key is having your direct deposit information accurate on your return - double-check your routing and account numbers because any errors will definitely cause delays.
This is really helpful info! I'm new to Navy Fed and just filed my return last week. Quick question - when you mention checking the IRS transcript for the 846 code, do you use the Get Transcript Online tool or is there another way to access it? Also, should I be worried if my refund is around $4,800? You mentioned potential delays for amounts over $5,000, so I'm hoping I'm in the clear but want to make sure I understand the process correctly.
2 Has anyone used H&R Block for S-corp returns? They quoted me $350 which is cheaper than both options the original poster mentioned.
I can help clarify the extension process for S-corps since someone asked about it. You can file Form 7004 to get an automatic 6-month extension, which pushes the deadline from March 15th to September 15th. However, this is only an extension to FILE, not to pay any taxes owed. The key thing with S-corps is that even if you had losses like the original poster, you still need to file the return by March 15th (or September 15th with extension) because the K-1s that flow to your personal return are needed for your April 15th personal filing deadline. Also regarding H&R Block - I've seen mixed results with their S-corp preparation. Their seasonal preparers often lack the specialized S-corp knowledge that dedicated business tax professionals have. For a simple first-year return with losses, they might be fine, but make sure whoever prepares it understands S-corp basis rules and proper documentation requirements for future years.
This is really helpful information about the extension process! I had no idea about the March 15th deadline difference. One follow-up question - if I file the extension but then realize I need to make estimated tax payments for next year, how does that timing work with S-corps? Do I need to make those payments by the original March deadline or can they wait until I actually file in September?
Has anyone dealt with the healthcare premium tax credit in this situation? My boyfriend and I are having a baby next month and we get our insurance through the marketplace with a subsidy. We're trying to figure out if claiming the baby will affect our subsidy amount.
Yes, this is an important consideration! The Premium Tax Credit is based on household size and income, so adding a dependent will likely increase your subsidy amount since your household size increases while income stays the same. However, only one tax household can claim the child, so if you and your boyfriend file separately, only the person claiming the child would get the increased subsidy. This could be another factor in deciding who should claim your baby.
Congratulations on your new baby! As someone who went through this exact situation a few years ago, I can share what we learned. The key thing to understand is that since you're unmarried, you both technically qualify to claim your daughter, but only ONE of you can actually do it each tax year. Given that your incomes are similar ($58k vs $62k), the decision should come down to who gets the bigger tax benefit. Here are the main things that will be affected by who claims her: 1. **Child Tax Credit** - Up to $2,000 per child 2. **Child and Dependent Care Credit** - If you're paying for childcare 3. **Earned Income Tax Credit** - This phases out at higher incomes, so might benefit the lower earner more 4. **Head of Household filing status** - Better tax brackets and higher standard deduction than filing single Since you pay for health insurance, that shows you're providing support, but it doesn't automatically mean you should be the one to claim her. The person who gets to file as Head of Household will likely see the biggest benefit. My advice: Use tax software to run both scenarios before you file. See what your combined tax liability looks like with each of you claiming her, then go with whichever saves your household the most money overall. You can also alternate years if that works better long-term. Just make sure you communicate clearly about who's claiming her each year - the IRS will flag duplicate claims and that creates a headache for everyone!
This is such helpful advice! I'm in a similar boat as the original poster - just had my first baby 2 months ago and my partner and I are trying to figure this out. Quick question though - when you say "use tax software to run both scenarios," do you mean like TurboTax or H&R Block? And do they actually let you test different scenarios without filing? I'm worried about messing something up since we're both tax newbies. Also, how do you track who paid for what to determine the Head of Household thing? We kind of just split everything without really keeping detailed records.
Harper Collins
This situation is unfortunately more common than it should be, especially with small businesses. Here are some immediate steps you can take: 1. **Document everything** - Take photos of your checks and keep a detailed log of hours worked vs. pay received. This will be crucial evidence if you need to file complaints. 2. **Request a meeting** - Ask your boss for a sit-down conversation about payroll. Come prepared with specific questions: "Can you show me how you calculate my withholdings?" and "When will I receive my W-2 for tax filing?" 3. **Know your rights** - Your employer is legally required to provide you with a paystub showing gross pay, all deductions, and net pay. In many states, this is mandated by law regardless of business size. 4. **Contact your state's Department of Labor** - They can investigate wage and hour violations and often have resources specifically for situations like this. Many have anonymous tip lines. 5. **Start setting aside money NOW** - Assume you'll owe taxes on your full gross income and save accordingly. Better to be prepared than caught off guard. The fact that you never filled out a W-4 is a major red flag. Don't let the fear of losing your job prevent you from protecting yourself financially. Your boss's evasive behavior suggests he knows he's not handling this properly.
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Gabrielle Dubois
This is a really concerning situation, and you're absolutely right to question what's happening. As someone who's dealt with payroll issues before, here are some red flags I'm seeing: 1. **No W-4 form** - This should have been the very first thing you filled out when starting work. Without it, your employer has no legal basis for withholding taxes. 2. **No paystubs** - Even the smallest businesses are required to provide documentation of what's being withheld from your pay. The fact that he's just writing personal checks without any breakdown is highly irregular. 3. **Evasive behavior** - A legitimate employer would be happy to explain their payroll process and show you exactly where your tax money is going. I'd strongly recommend starting with the basics: send your boss a text or email requesting copies of your W-4 and paystubs for all pay periods. Having this in writing creates a paper trail. If he can't or won't provide these basic documents, that tells you everything you need to know. Also, start calculating and setting aside about 25-30% of your gross pay for taxes, just in case. You don't want to be stuck with a huge tax bill if it turns out he's been pocketing your withholdings instead of sending them to the IRS. Your instincts are spot on - trust them and protect yourself!
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Hassan Khoury
β’This is really solid advice! I'm definitely going to send that text request for my W-4 and paystubs today. Having it in writing makes so much sense - I've been too nervous to push the issue but you're right that I need to protect myself. The 25-30% savings tip is smart too. I've been living paycheck to paycheck but I'd rather be tight on money now than get destroyed by a massive tax bill later. Do you think I should open a separate savings account just for this? I don't trust myself not to spend it if it's mixed with my regular money. Also, if he keeps avoiding giving me those documents after I ask in writing, how long should I wait before escalating to the Department of Labor? I really don't want to lose this job but I'm starting to realize staying might cost me way more in the long run.
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