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Best Study Plan for the SEE Exam to Become an Enrolled Agent?

I've decided I want to pursue becoming an enrolled agent and need to tackle the SEE exam. I'm pretty much starting from scratch here. While I've got some basic knowledge about income taxes and business taxes from doing my own returns over the years, I feel like I need a solid foundation before diving into this exam. What's the absolute best way to study for the SEE exam? I've heard it's pretty intense and covers a ton of material. Are there any comprehensive courses, study guides, or maybe YouTube channels that really break down everything I need to know? I'm willing to invest the time (and some money if needed) to really learn this stuff properly. Has anyone here gone through this process recently? What worked for you? Any regrets about how you prepared? I keep hearing different advice and am feeling a bit overwhelmed by all the options.

As someone who recently passed all three parts of the SEE exam, I wanted to add a few thoughts to this great discussion. The advice here is spot-on, especially about the importance of practice questions and understanding the "why" behind tax rules rather than just memorizing. One thing I'd emphasize that hasn't been mentioned much is the value of creating your own study schedule and sticking to it religiously. I found that consistency was more important than intensity - studying 1-2 hours daily for 8 weeks worked better for me than cramming for 4 weeks. Regarding which part to start with, I'd actually recommend Part 1 first since it covers individual taxation concepts that form the foundation for understanding business and representation topics in Parts 2 and 3. Plus, getting that first pass under your belt builds tremendous confidence. For timing between parts, I spaced mine about 6-8 weeks apart to allow proper preparation time without losing momentum. The entire process took me about 7 months from start to finish, including one retake on Part 2. Don't get too caught up in finding the "perfect" study materials - whether it's Gleim, Surgent, or Fast Forward Academy, they're all solid. The key is picking one comprehensive system and committing to it fully rather than jumping between resources. Best of luck to everyone on this journey - becoming an EA is absolutely worth the effort!

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Thank you for sharing your experience and timeline! Your point about consistency over intensity really resonates with me. I'm just starting this journey and have been trying to figure out a realistic study schedule that I can actually stick to. The 7-month timeline you mentioned is really helpful for setting expectations. Did you find that 6-8 weeks between parts was enough time to fully prepare, or did you feel rushed at all? I'm trying to balance wanting to maintain momentum with giving myself adequate preparation time. Also, when you mention "committing fully" to one comprehensive system, did you use any supplemental resources at all, or did you stick strictly to your main course materials? Some of the tools mentioned here like taxr.ai for concept clarification sound potentially helpful, but I don't want to overwhelm myself with too many resources. Your advice about Part 1 first makes a lot of sense - building that foundation seems crucial before tackling the more complex business topics. Thanks for taking the time to share such detailed guidance!

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Coming from someone who just scheduled my Part 1 exam for next month, I want to thank everyone for this incredibly comprehensive discussion! The range of study approaches and resources mentioned here has been eye-opening. I've been using Surgent as my main course and found their adaptive learning technology really helpful for identifying my weak areas. But reading about the supplemental resources like taxr.ai and the specific IRS publications Dylan listed has me thinking I should diversify my approach a bit. One strategy that's been working well for me is creating flashcards for the trickier concepts (like the various AGI thresholds and phase-out ranges) using Anki. The spaced repetition really helps cement those details that are easy to mix up under exam pressure. For anyone just starting out, I'd also recommend taking a diagnostic test early on to see where you stand. Most of the major prep courses offer them, and it really helped me understand the scope of what I needed to learn. Don't be discouraged if you bomb it - I scored a 32% on my first diagnostic and now I'm consistently hitting 75-80% on practice exams. The journey is definitely challenging but this community makes it feel much less overwhelming. Thanks for sharing all your experiences and insights!

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Best of luck on your Part 1 exam next month! Your progress from 32% to 75-80% on practice exams is really inspiring - that's exactly the kind of improvement I'm hoping to see as I start this journey. The Anki flashcard idea is brilliant, especially for those detailed thresholds and phase-outs that seem so easy to confuse. I've been struggling with keeping all the different AGI limitations straight, so I'm definitely going to try that approach. Your point about taking a diagnostic test early really resonates with me. I've been putting it off because I was worried about getting discouraged, but hearing that you started at 32% and worked your way up gives me confidence that a low starting score doesn't mean anything about final success. How did you find the balance between your main Surgent materials and supplemental resources? I'm planning to start with one comprehensive system like everyone recommends, but I'm curious if you found certain topics where the supplemental materials really made the difference. Thanks for sharing your experience and timeline - it's really helpful to hear from someone who's currently in the thick of it rather than just looking back on completed exams!

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Got a 1099-INT from my credit union for the first time - do I need to add this to my taxes?

So I've been with the same credit union for like 6 years now and they just sent me a 1099-INT form in the mail. Never got one from them before and I'm confused. My savings account earned about $172 in interest last year which I guess is why they sent it? Do I actually need to include this on my tax return? I usually just file the simple tax forms since my job is pretty straightforward. Will this complicate things? I normally get my taxes done pretty quick but now I'm wondering if I need to do something different this year.

Just curious - does anyone know what the threshold is for when banks/credit unions have to send a 1099-INT? I have accounts at multiple banks and only got forms from some of them.

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Financial institutions are required to issue a 1099-INT if they paid you $10 or more in interest during the tax year. If you earned less than that at some banks, they wouldn't be required to send you a form.

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Just to add another perspective - if you're worried about making mistakes with tax forms like the 1099-INT, you might want to consider using a tax professional for this year, especially since it's your first time dealing with investment income. Many CPAs offer reasonably priced services for straightforward returns, and they can walk you through what to expect in future years. That said, if you're comfortable with TurboTax, it really does make adding 1099-INT information pretty foolproof. The software will ask you simple questions and guide you through entering the information exactly as it appears on the form. Just make sure you have the form handy when you're doing your taxes so you can enter all the numbers accurately.

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Help with Schedule K-1 (1065): Calculating Adjusted Basis for small LLC partnership

I'm struggling with figuring out the adjusted basis calculation on my Schedule K-1 (1065). Using tax software has been mostly fine for the straightforward parts - I can handle inputting different box numbers. But I'm totally confused when it comes to the adjusted basis calculation, which apparently determines how much I can deduct. My situation is pretty simple: I work full-time (40hrs/week) at a small LLC that gave me a small percentage partnership interest as a performance bonus last year. The K-1 is super basic with only a few boxes filled in (Boxes 1, 14, and 18). We've been operating at a loss since the company started, so no distributions to worry about. Two main questions: 1) Since I'm a direct employee working full-time, am I considered an "active participant"? But I think I'm "NOT at-risk" because I don't lose anything if the company fails (Item K liabilities = 0). Do I even need to calculate adjusted basis? 2) For the adjusted basis calculation, all I have is Item L (Partner's Capital Account Analysis). Last year's Ending Capital Account was around -$1,300. Tax software requires a non-zero starting adjusted basis - do I just put 0 since last year's ending was negative? This year's Item L shows: Beginning capital: ~ -$4,100 Decrease: ~ -$3,800 Ending: ~ -$7,900 I think the decrease for adjusted basis would be -$3,800, but then I looked at the worksheet on the IRS website (https://www.irs.gov/instructions/i1065sk1/ch01.html) which says adjusted basis less than zero is 0? I'm completely lost at this point.

For your Schedule K-1 (1065) adjusted basis, I think you're getting confused between capital account and outside basis. They're different things! Your capital account can go negative (as yours has) but your basis can never go below zero. Since you got your interest as a bonus, your initial basis was probably the value included in your income. If that was zero, then your starting basis was zero. Since your basis starts at zero, you can't deduct any of the partnership losses now. They get suspended and carry forward until you get more basis (either by contributing money/property to the LLC or by the LLC generating income that's allocated to you). For the tax software, you're correct to enter zero as your starting basis if it was already zero last year. Make sure you track your suspended losses somewhere though - those are important for future years!

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Thanks for explaining the difference between capital account and outside basis! That clears up a lot. So even though my capital account shows -$7,900 at the end of this year, my outside basis is still just zero? Do I need to file any special forms to track these suspended losses or is it just something I need to remember for next year?

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Exactly right - your capital account can show -$7,900, but your outside basis remains at zero (it can't go negative). The difference between those numbers represents your suspended losses. There's no specific IRS form for tracking suspended losses - it's just something you need to maintain in your personal records. I recommend creating a simple spreadsheet that shows: 1) Your beginning basis each year 2) Increases to basis (contributions, income items) 3) Decreases to basis (distributions, loss items) 4) Ending basis 5) Cumulative suspended losses When you file next year, you'll need this information to know how much of any losses you can claim. If the partnership becomes profitable, those profits will increase your basis and allow you to start using those suspended losses.

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Dealing with Schedule K-1 (1065) adjusted basis calculations can be a nightmare! I'm a partner in 3 different LLCs and finally figured out how to handle negative capital accounts. The key thing to understand: your adjusted basis and your capital account are calculated differently. Your capital account can go negative, but your tax basis cannot. When you receive a partnership interest as compensation (like you did), your initial basis equals the amount included in your income. If you didn't include any amount in income, your initial basis was zero. With a starting basis of zero and no additional contributions, you can't claim any of the $3,800 loss this year. But those losses aren't gone! They're suspended and can be used in future years when you have basis. For tax software, enter zero as your beginning basis, then show your share of loss, but the software should limit your loss deduction to zero.

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Are you sure about the suspended losses carrying forward indefinitely? I thought they expired after a certain number of years like net operating losses do. Can anyone confirm this?

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Yes, suspended losses from partnerships do carry forward indefinitely - they don't expire like NOLs used to. The losses remain suspended until you have sufficient basis to absorb them, which could happen through capital contributions, your share of partnership income, or increases in partnership liabilities that affect your basis. This is different from the old NOL rules that had expiration periods. Partnership losses under the passive activity rules or basis limitations just sit there waiting for you to have enough basis or passive income to use them. I've had suspended losses from one of my partnerships for over 8 years now, still carrying them forward each year on my tracking spreadsheet. @Aaliyah Reed is absolutely right about keeping good records though - the IRS doesn t'track these for you, so you need to maintain your own basis calculations year over year.

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USPS Delivered my Form 3520 to Wrong IRS ZIP Code - What Should I Do?

I'm freaking out a little bit here. I mailed my Form 3520 (Annual Return To Report Transactions With Foreign Trusts) to the IRS last week using certified mail. I triple-checked that I used the correct address with ZIP code 84409 that the IRS specifically states on their website. But when I checked my USPS tracking today, it shows delivered to ZIP code 84201 instead??? Has anyone dealt with this before? The tracking says "delivered" but to the wrong ZIP code! I'm worried my form is just floating around somewhere or delivered to the wrong place entirely. Do I need to resend the entire Form 3520 again? Will I get penalized for filing late if this one doesn't actually reach them? This form is already stressful enough to fill out with all the foreign trust reporting requirements, and now I'm worried about missing deadlines because USPS apparently can't deliver to the right address. Any advice on what to do next would be super helpful!

Just wanted to add some additional context about IRS mail processing. I used to work for a tax firm, and this ZIP code discrepancy happens ALL THE TIME with the Ogden service center. The 84201 is the main facility ZIP, while 84409 and others are internal routing codes. Your Form 3520 is definitely in the right place. The USPS system just shows the main facility delivery. The IRS has internal mail routing that gets it to the right department. As long as you addressed it to the specific PO Box for Form 3520, you're good!

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Thanks so much for this insider perspective! That really helps put my mind at ease. Is there any way to follow up with the IRS to confirm they actually received it? I'm still a bit paranoid since the penalties for late filing Form 3520 are so steep.

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Unfortunately, the IRS doesn't have a great system for confirming receipt of specific forms in real-time. Form 3520 processing typically takes 3-4 months minimum, so you won't see it reflected in your account right away. Your best proof is your mailing receipt and tracking information. The courts have consistently held that proper mailing (right address, sufficient postage, timely deposit) constitutes timely filing. I would recommend keeping digital copies of your tracking information and a copy of the form you submitted.

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Pro tip: Always send these international information forms via CERTIFIED mail with return receipt! I learned this lesson the hard way with my FBAR filing a few years back. Also keep a copy of everything you send, including proof of mailing. The penalties for late filing Form 3520 are insane (either $10,000 or 35% of the gross value of the trust distributions, whichever is greater).

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Does certified mail actually help though? It seems like even with tracking, there's still confusion about where things end up, like in OP's case.

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Certified mail is definitely worth it! Even though there can be tracking confusion like OP experienced, certified mail provides legal proof of timely filing. The key is that it shows you properly addressed the form, paid postage, and deposited it in the mail by the deadline. Courts have consistently ruled that proper mailing constitutes timely filing, regardless of internal IRS routing issues. Without certified mail, you'd have no proof at all if the IRS claimed they never received your form. The $5-6 cost is nothing compared to those massive Form 3520 penalties!

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Class action lawsuit settlement and W9 - Need tax form for $1500 payment?

I was involved in a class action lawsuit against a vehicle manufacturer that started back in 2021. In November 2024, they finally settled and everyone in the class action received $1,750. The payment basically reimbursed me for repairs I had to pay out of pocket in 2021 for a defect they knew about but didn't address. About three weeks ago, the law firm handling the case asked me to complete a W9 form, which I promptly filled out and sent back to them. Now I'm confused about the tax implications. Should I be expecting some kind of tax document (1099 maybe?) to include when filing my taxes this year? I haven't gotten anything in the mail yet, and when I tried reaching out to the law firm, they haven't responded to my questions about tax documentation. Do I need to report this $1,750 settlement payment as income on my tax return? Since it's essentially covering a repair expense I already paid, is it even considered taxable income? Any help would be appreciated!

Has anyone actually confirmed if the W9 requirement always means they'll send a 1099? I received $1200 from a data breach settlement last year, filled out a W9, but never got any tax forms. I called the settlement administrator and they said they only send 1099s for certain types of payments and mine didn't qualify. Still reported it to be safe but was confused.

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Companies typically request W9 forms to gather your tax information but they're only required to issue 1099s for certain payment types and amounts above $600. My understanding is they're covering their bases by collecting everyone's info, then determining who actually needs to receive a form based on payment classification. For data breach settlements specifically, those are often considered non-taxable because they're reimbursing you for potential damages or preventative measures (credit monitoring, etc). Different tax treatment than other settlement types.

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Great thread with lots of helpful information! I'm dealing with a similar situation from a pharmaceutical class action settlement. One thing I learned from my tax preparer is that you should also check if your state has different rules for reporting settlement income. In my state, even though the settlement wasn't federally taxable (it was reimbursement for medical expenses), I still had to report it on my state return because they don't automatically follow federal exclusions. The state ended up not taxing it either, but I had to include a worksheet explaining why. Also, if you paid for the original repairs with a credit card and claimed any purchase protection or warranty benefits, that could potentially affect the tax treatment since you might have already received some reimbursement. Just something to consider when determining your actual out-of-pocket costs that the settlement is covering.

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