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Sayid Hassan

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I'm dealing with almost the exact same situation! My Box 2 is showing $0 even though I had federal taxes withheld all year. I checked my final pay stub and it shows over $3,800 in federal withholding, but my W-2 has nothing in that box. I contacted my HR department yesterday and they're saying it might take 2-3 weeks to issue a corrected W-2. I'm getting worried about the filing deadline since we're already in April. One thing that's confusing me though - when I look at my online payroll portal, all my pay stubs show the federal tax deductions, but when I add them up manually, I get a slightly different total than what my final pay stub shows as YTD. Has anyone else noticed small discrepancies like this? I'm wondering if there were some adjustments made that I'm not seeing. @Aria Park - definitely don't file until you get this resolved. I made that mistake once before with a different tax issue and it created a huge headache with the IRS.

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Yuki Sato

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@Sayid Hassan - those small discrepancies you re'seeing between manually adding up your pay stubs and your final YTD total are pretty common. There could be several reasons for this: 1. Mid-year tax table updates that caused slight adjustments to withholding rates 2. Bonus payments that had different withholding calculations 3. Pre-tax deductions like (health insurance or 401k that) changed during the year 4. Rounding differences in payroll systems The important thing is that your final December pay stub should be the most accurate since it includes any end-of-year adjustments your payroll system made. Use that YTD total when you re'working with HR to get your corrected W-2. If you re'worried about the April deadline and HR is taking too long, you might want to look into the services others mentioned here like taxr.ai to help document the discrepancy, or Claimyr to get through to the IRS if you need to file Form 4852 as a backup plan. Don t'let this stress you out too much - these W-2 errors are more common than you d'think!

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Elijah Brown

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I've been through something similar and it's incredibly frustrating! The good news is that this is definitely fixable, but you absolutely need to get it resolved before filing. Here's what I'd recommend doing immediately: 1. **Document everything** - Take clear photos/scans of your final pay stub showing the $4,300 withheld and your W-2 showing the empty Box 2. This creates a paper trail. 2. **Contact payroll ASAP** - Don't just call, send an email too so you have written documentation of your request for a corrected W-2. Include the evidence showing the discrepancy. 3. **Be prepared for delays** - Even though they should issue a W-2c quickly, payroll departments can be slow. Ask for a specific timeline. 4. **Know your backup options** - If they drag their feet past late February, you can contact the IRS directly or file Form 4852 (substitute W-2) using your pay stub information. The fact that your tax software is showing $0 refund makes perfect sense - it thinks you paid zero federal taxes all year when you actually paid $4,300! Once this gets corrected, you should see the refund you're expecting. Don't stress too much - this is more common than you'd think, and it's completely your employer's responsibility to fix it. Just stay on top of them and don't file until it's resolved.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm actually in a similar boat - just discovered my W-2 has an error in Box 3 (Social Security wages) that doesn't match my final pay stub. One question though - when you say "don't file until it's resolved," what happens if we're getting close to the April 15 deadline and the employer still hasn't issued the corrected W-2? I know you mentioned Form 4852, but I'm nervous about filing a substitute form. Will that automatically trigger an audit or cause other problems with the IRS? Also, has anyone had experience with employers who just refuse to issue corrections? My company's payroll department seems pretty overwhelmed and I'm worried they might just ignore my request.

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This is exactly the kind of confusion that trips up so many people! You're absolutely right to question this - it shows you're being careful about your taxes, which is smart. Your SIMPLE IRA contributions are already properly accounted for through your W-2 in Box 12 with code "S". When H&R Block asks about "Traditional or Roth IRA contributions," they're specifically asking about personal IRAs that you set up and contribute to outside of your employer's plan. Since you only contributed to your workplace SIMPLE IRA, you should answer "No" to that question. The Form 5498 from Vanguard is just informational - it shows your total contributions plus your employer's match for your records. You don't need to enter this information separately when filing your return since your contributions are already captured through your W-2. Think of it this way: employer-sponsored plans (SIMPLE IRA, 401k, 403b) are handled through payroll and show up on your W-2. Personal IRAs (Traditional or Roth that you open yourself) are what the tax software is asking about when it mentions "IRA contributions." They're completely separate categories for tax reporting purposes. This should clear up that over-contribution error you're seeing!

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Sofia Perez

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This explanation is spot-on! I just went through this exact same situation last month and was so confused about why H&R Block kept giving me that over-contribution error. Once I realized that my SIMPLE IRA contributions were already being handled through my W-2 and answered "No" to the personal IRA question, everything worked perfectly. It's really frustrating that the tax software doesn't make this distinction clearer upfront. They should probably ask something like "Did you contribute to a personal Traditional or Roth IRA account that you set up yourself (separate from any workplace retirement plans)?" That would save so much confusion for people like us who have employer-sponsored retirement accounts. Thanks for laying this out so clearly - it would have saved me hours of stress if I'd seen this explanation earlier!

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Malia Ponder

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This is such a helpful thread! I'm a tax preparer and see this exact confusion multiple times every tax season. You've all done a great job explaining the key distinction between employer-sponsored retirement plans and personal IRAs. Just to add one more point for anyone still confused: the reason this happens is that many people assume "IRA" in the tax software question refers to ANY Individual Retirement Account, including SIMPLE IRAs. But in tax software context, when they ask about "IRA contributions," they're specifically asking about personal accounts you fund directly - not payroll-deducted employer plans. Your SIMPLE IRA is technically an "IRA" but it's employer-sponsored and gets special tax treatment. The contributions show up in W-2 Box 12 with code "S" and are already excluded from your taxable wages. The employer match portion also gets reported correctly through your employer's systems. The Form 5498 is essentially a year-end statement showing total activity in your SIMPLE IRA account - think of it like a bank statement rather than a tax document you need to manually enter. The IRS uses it to verify that the amounts reported on your W-2 match what the account custodian (Vanguard in your case) has on file. So stick with answering "No" when asked about Traditional/Roth IRA contributions, and your return should process without that over-contribution error!

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As someone new to all this retirement account stuff, this thread has been incredibly enlightening! I just started my first job that offers a SIMPLE IRA and was already getting nervous about how complicated tax season would be. Your explanation about Form 5498 being like a "bank statement rather than a tax document" really clicked for me. I was wondering why I would get this form if I didn't need to do anything with it - now I understand it's just for my records and verification purposes. It sounds like the main takeaway is: if your retirement contributions come out of your paycheck automatically and show up on your W-2, then you don't need to report them again separately when the tax software asks about "IRA contributions." Those questions are only for money you put into personal retirement accounts with your own after-tax dollars. Is that right? This makes me feel much more confident about handling my taxes next year!

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Caesar Grant

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Exactly right! You've grasped the key concept perfectly. If your retirement contributions come out of your paycheck pre-tax and show up on your W-2 (like SIMPLE IRA, 401k, etc.), then you're all set - don't report them again when tax software asks about "IRA contributions." Those IRA questions are specifically for personal accounts where you write a check or make an online transfer from your bank account directly to an IRA custodian like Fidelity, Vanguard, etc. Those contributions use money you've already received in your paycheck (after-tax for Roth, or you get a deduction later for Traditional). One small clarification though - SIMPLE IRA contributions are actually pre-tax money that reduces your taxable income, similar to a 401k. Roth IRA contributions would be made with after-tax dollars. But the main point stands: payroll deductions = already handled, personal contributions = need to report separately. You'll do great next tax season! The fact that you're thinking about this ahead of time shows you're on the right track.

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Noah Ali

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Just a heads up - don't forget to consider state filing requirements too! Depending on your state, you might need to file additional self-employment forms at the state level. I learned this the hard way last year 😭

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Good point! My state (Oregon) required a separate Schedule OR-PTE-FY form for my 1099 income that I almost missed.

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I'm in almost the exact same boat - W-2 from my day job plus a 1099-NEC from some freelance work I picked up. After reading through all these responses, I'm definitely leaning toward checking out FreeTaxUSA instead of paying the premium for TurboTax Self-Employed. One thing I'd add is to make sure you track any business expenses related to your 1099 work - things like equipment, supplies, mileage, or even a portion of your internet bill if you worked from home. These can really help offset the self-employment tax burden. I wish I had been better about tracking expenses throughout the year instead of scrambling to remember everything now at filing time. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - this thread has been super helpful!

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Great point about tracking expenses! I'm new to this whole 1099 situation too and didn't realize how many things could be deductible. Do you know if there's a minimum threshold for business expenses to be worth claiming? I probably only have a few hundred dollars in expenses from my side work but wasn't sure if that was worth the hassle of itemizing everything on Schedule C.

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Leila Haddad

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I've been in a similar situation with shared apartment expenses, and one thing that helped me was keeping meticulous records from day one. Beyond what Carmen mentioned, I'd also suggest: - Taking photos of your office setup with timestamps - Keeping a log of business activities conducted in the space (even just a simple calendar noting "client calls," "project work," etc.) - Saving email confirmations or receipts for any office furniture/equipment purchases One mistake I made initially was not separating my business and personal use clearly enough. The IRS really emphasizes "exclusive" use - so if you ever use that room for personal activities (like storing personal items, having guests sleep there, etc.), it could jeopardize your deduction. Also, regarding your work truck parking - since you mentioned the actual expenses are higher than standard mileage, make sure you're consistent with your vehicle deduction method throughout the year. You can't switch between actual expenses and standard mileage for the same vehicle in the same tax year. Good luck with your first year taking the deduction! It's definitely worth getting right from the start.

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Mason Stone

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This is really helpful advice, especially about the exclusive use requirement! I'm just starting my home business and setting up a dedicated office space. Quick question - if I occasionally store some seasonal personal items (like winter clothes) in the office closet, would that disqualify the entire room from the home office deduction? Or is it more about the main workspace area being exclusively for business use? Also, thanks for the tip about vehicle expense consistency. I hadn't realized you couldn't switch methods mid-year for the same vehicle. That could have been a costly mistake!

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Great question about the closet storage! Unfortunately, storing personal items like seasonal clothes in your office closet would likely disqualify the entire room from the home office deduction. The IRS is quite strict about the "exclusive use" test - the space must be used ONLY for business purposes. However, there are a couple of potential workarounds: 1. You could potentially exclude the closet area from your office square footage calculation if it's clearly separable and you can demonstrate the main room area is exclusively business use 2. Some people install a separate storage unit or use other areas of their home for personal storage to keep the office space completely business-only The safest approach is to remove all personal items from the office space entirely. I learned this the hard way when my accountant warned me that even having a single personal filing cabinet in my home office could jeopardize the entire deduction during an audit. It's definitely worth being extra cautious with the exclusive use requirement since it's one of the most scrutinized aspects of home office deductions!

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QuantumQuest

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As someone who's been through multiple home office deduction audits, I want to emphasize how important it is to get this calculation right from the start. The IRS is increasingly scrutinizing home office deductions, especially for shared living situations. A few additional points that haven't been mentioned: 1. **Documentation timing matters** - Don't wait until tax time to gather your documentation. Start keeping records now, including monthly utility bills, lease agreements, and business use logs. 2. **The "principal place of business" test** - Since you're using this space 100% for business, make sure you can demonstrate this is where you conduct the primary activities of your trade. This becomes crucial if you also work at client locations. 3. **State tax implications** - Some states have different rules for home office deductions. Make sure you're compliant at both federal and state levels. 4. **Consider depreciation carefully** - If you own the property, taking depreciation on your home office can create a tax liability when you sell. Since you're renting, this doesn't apply, but it's worth understanding for future reference. The consensus in this thread is correct: 13% of your actual housing costs (minus both parking fees) is the right approach. Your physical space percentage doesn't change based on cost-sharing arrangements with your partner. Keep excellent records, and don't let anyone tell you that sharing your residence disqualifies you from this legitimate business deduction!

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Jenna Sloan

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This is incredibly comprehensive advice - thank you for sharing your audit experience! The point about documentation timing is especially valuable. I've been making the mistake of thinking I could just gather everything at year-end. Quick follow-up question on the "principal place of business" test: I do occasionally meet clients at coffee shops or their offices, but probably 85% of my actual work happens in my home office. Would the occasional off-site meetings affect my qualification, or is it more about where the majority of business activities occur? Also, regarding state tax implications - is there a good resource for checking state-specific rules? I'm in California and want to make sure I'm not missing anything. Your point about keeping excellent records really hits home. Better to over-document than under-document when it comes to the IRS!

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Slight tangent but important: if you use the vehicle for business less than 50% in any subsequent year after claiming bonus depreciation, you WILL have to recapture some of the depreciation as ordinary income. The IRS considers this a "change in use" and will make you pay back some of the benefit you received.

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That's really good to know! Do you happen to know what form is used to calculate the recapture amount if business use drops below 50%?

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Khalil Urso

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The recapture calculation is reported on Form 4797 (Sales of Business Property), specifically in Part IV for recapture of depreciation. You'll need to calculate the excess depreciation that was claimed over what would have been allowed under the straight-line method, and that amount gets treated as ordinary income rather than capital gains. The calculation can get pretty complex depending on when the change in use occurred and how much depreciation was originally claimed. I'd definitely recommend working with a tax professional if you find yourself in this situation, as getting the recapture calculation wrong can lead to additional penalties and interest.

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This is a great question that trips up a lot of business owners! I went through the same confusion when I claimed bonus depreciation on my delivery van in 2021. The key thing to remember is that you absolutely need to continue reporting the vehicle on your tax forms each year, even though you won't be claiming any additional depreciation. Here's why this matters: 1. **Audit trail**: The IRS expects to see a continuous record of business assets. If the vehicle suddenly disappears from your records, it could raise red flags during an audit. 2. **Business use tracking**: You need to document that you're still using the vehicle for business purposes at the same percentage as when you claimed the depreciation. 3. **Future sale implications**: When you eventually sell or dispose of the vehicle, you'll need to calculate gain/loss based on your adjusted basis (which is now essentially zero after the bonus depreciation). Most tax software will automatically carry forward previously depreciated assets and show them with $0 current year depreciation. If you're preparing manually, make sure to include it on your depreciation schedule or Form 4562 to maintain proper documentation. Keep good records of your business mileage and use - this becomes even more important after claiming bonus depreciation since you need to prove continued business use to avoid potential recapture issues.

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This is exactly the comprehensive answer I was looking for! I've been stressing about this for weeks because my tax software kept showing the truck with zero depreciation and I thought something was wrong. Your explanation about the audit trail makes perfect sense - I never thought about how it would look if the vehicle just vanished from my records. One follow-up question: you mentioned keeping good mileage records becomes even more important after bonus depreciation. Should I be tracking anything differently now compared to before I claimed the depreciation? I've been using the same mileage log app but wondering if there are specific things I should document. Thanks for taking the time to explain this so clearly!

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