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I went through this exact same nightmare last year! The hyphenated last name is almost certainly your issue. Here's what finally worked for me: First, try entering your name in ID.me exactly as it appears on your most recent tax return if you have a copy. Even if your parents filed it, your name should appear consistently with how the IRS has it stored. If you don't have that, here are the variations to try with your hyphenated name: - With the hyphen: "Smith-Jones" - Without the hyphen but with a space: "Smith Jones" - Without the hyphen, no space: "SmithJones" - Sometimes they store it as two separate last names Also, make sure you're using your full legal first name, not a nickname. If your birth certificate says "Elizabeth" but you go by "Liz," use Elizabeth. The other thing that helped me was checking my credit report first - sometimes the way your name appears there matches how it's stored in government databases, since they often cross-reference the same sources. Don't panic about the deadline! You can always file for an extension if needed, and like someone else mentioned, you can enter "0" for prior year AGI if you absolutely can't retrieve it. The IRS would rather have your return with a small processing delay than not have it at all.

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This is incredibly helpful, thank you! I never thought to check my credit report to see how my name appears there. That's such a smart idea since you're right that these systems probably pull from similar databases. I'm definitely going to try all those hyphen variations you mentioned. It's so frustrating that something as simple as a hyphen can cause this much trouble, but at least now I have a systematic approach to figure out which format they're expecting. The tip about using my full legal first name is good too - I do sometimes use a shortened version of my name on forms, so that could be part of the issue as well. I'm feeling much more optimistic about getting this resolved now!

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I went through this exact same issue a few months ago and it was incredibly frustrating! The ID.me error 6001 is definitely a name formatting mismatch between what you entered and what the IRS has on file. Since you mentioned you have a hyphenated last name, that's almost certainly the culprit. Government systems are notoriously inconsistent about how they handle special characters like hyphens. Some store them, others strip them out, and some replace them with spaces. Here's what I'd recommend trying first before calling anyone: 1. Try your name with the hyphen, without the hyphen (as one word), and with a space instead of the hyphen 2. Make sure you're using your full legal first name exactly as it appears on official documents, not any nicknames 3. Double-check that you're not accidentally adding extra spaces anywhere If those don't work, calling the IRS at 1-800-829-1040 is actually your best bet. Yes, the wait times are terrible, but they can verify your identity using other information and tell you exactly how your name appears in their system. I ended up having to do this and the agent was actually very helpful once I got through. Don't stress too much about the deadline - you can always file for an extension if needed, and entering "0" for prior year AGI won't prevent you from filing. The IRS deals with these verification issues constantly during tax season.

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Ravi Gupta

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Thank you for the detailed advice! I really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences with this issue - it's reassuring to know I'm not the only one dealing with this frustrating problem. I'm definitely going to try all the hyphen variations you suggested before calling the IRS. The idea that some systems strip out special characters while others keep them makes total sense, even though it's incredibly annoying from a user perspective. One question though - when you called the IRS and they told you how your name appears in their system, were they able to fix it over the phone if it was wrong? Or did you have to go through some other process to update it? I'm wondering if there's a chance my name is actually incorrect in their system rather than just formatted differently. Also, has anyone had success with the mail-in transcript request (Form 4506-T) that was mentioned earlier? I'm thinking that might be a good backup plan while I'm trying to sort out the online access issue.

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Jamal Brown

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OMG I'm going through this RIGHT NOW too! 😫 I got my review letter on April 2nd and sent EVERYTHING they asked for the very next day. Still NOTHING! I'm so stressed because I need this money for summer childcare deposits due by June 1st! Has anyone tried calling the Taxpayer Advocate Service instead of regular IRS? I heard they can sometimes help if you have a financial hardship situation? I'm afraid if I wait the full 60 days they're saying it might take, I'll lose my childcare spot!

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I'm in a similar situation - got my review letter about 3 weeks ago for mortgage interest verification and submitted everything through their online portal. The waiting is definitely nerve-wracking! From what I've read here and other forums, it seems like the 45-60 day timeframe is pretty standard, but it's encouraging to see some people getting theirs faster. I've been checking my transcript weekly (probably more than I should) but haven't seen any movement yet. @Jamal Brown - regarding the Taxpayer Advocate Service, I believe they can help if you can demonstrate financial hardship, especially with time-sensitive obligations like childcare deposits. It might be worth calling them since you have a specific deadline. For the rest of us, sounds like patience is the key, though I know that's easier said than done when you're waiting for your refund!

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I'm new here but going through the exact same thing! Got my review letter about 10 days ago for some education credit verification and submitted all my 1098-T forms and receipts right away. This is my first time dealing with a review letter and honestly it's pretty stressful not knowing what to expect. Reading through everyone's experiences here is really helpful though - seems like most people are getting their refunds within that 45-60 day window once they submit documentation. @McKenzie Shade thanks for mentioning the weekly transcript checking, I was wondering how often I should be looking at mine without being obsessive about it! And @Jamal Brown I really hope the Taxpayer Advocate Service can help with your childcare situation - that deadline pressure sounds awful.

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Ravi Sharma

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Has anyone here actually gotten audited for Schedule C stuff? I'm paranoid about reporting things wrong and getting in trouble with the IRS. I'm only making like $12k a year from my side gig.

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I got a letter asking for more documentation about my business expenses a couple years ago. Not a full audit, but still scary. They wanted receipts for some equipment I bought. I sent everything they asked for and it was fine, but definitely made me more careful about keeping records. My tax person told me Schedule C filers do get more scrutiny, especially if your expenses seem high compared to your income. Keep good records and you'll be fine even if they do ask questions.

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NeonNova

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Don't worry too much about getting audited, especially at your income level. The IRS typically focuses audit resources on much higher earners or businesses with obvious red flags. At $12k annually, you're pretty low on their priority list. That said, it's still smart to keep good records - just don't let audit paranoia prevent you from claiming legitimate deductions you're entitled to. I see too many small business owners leave money on the table because they're scared. A few tips to stay out of trouble: - Keep receipts for everything you deduct - Don't round numbers to nice even amounts - Make sure your business expenses are reasonable compared to your income - Be conservative on gray areas like mixed personal/business use items The key is being able to substantiate what you claim. If you can prove your deductions with documentation, you're in good shape even if they do ask questions.

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Amina Diallo

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This is really helpful advice, thank you! I've been keeping receipts for everything but wasn't sure about the rounding thing - I definitely have some expenses that come out to nice round numbers naturally (like monthly software subscriptions), so good to know that's not automatically a red flag. One follow-up question: when you mention "reasonable compared to your income" - is there a general rule of thumb for what percentage of expenses seems normal? I'm probably around 30-35% expenses to gross income ratio for my photography business, mostly equipment and software costs.

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Malik Davis

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As someone who just joined this community after purchasing my first EV, I have to say this thread has been incredibly educational! I was in the exact same boat as the original poster - heard about the $7,500 credit but had no clue how it actually worked. The distinction between reducing tax liability versus adding to your refund was the key insight I was missing. I kept thinking it would just be $7,500 added on top of whatever refund I was expecting, but now I understand it's more about how much you actually owe in taxes to begin with. What's really eye-opening is learning about all the qualification complexities that came with the recent rule changes. Between the assembly location requirements, battery component sourcing, income limits, and the split-credit structure, it's definitely more complicated than I initially thought. I'm definitely going to follow the advice about checking my previous year's "Total Tax" line and keeping detailed documentation. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences and resources - this community seems like a great place for newcomers to get real-world guidance on these confusing tax situations!

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Welcome to the community and congratulations on your EV purchase! It's great to see another newcomer who's taking the time to really understand how this credit works before filing. I'm pretty new here myself, but this thread has been such a goldmine of practical information. Your point about the tax liability versus refund distinction is spot on - that was the biggest "aha moment" for me too. I think a lot of people (myself included initially) get excited about the $7,500 figure without realizing it's capped by what you actually owe in taxes. The complexity of the qualification rules is honestly a bit overwhelming, but I'm finding that breaking it down into those key steps everyone mentioned really helps: check vehicle qualification, determine tax liability, gather documentation. The community here seems really supportive of helping newcomers navigate all these details. Good luck with both your new EV and figuring out the tax credit! It sounds like you're approaching it with the right mindset.

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As a newcomer to this community and EV ownership, I've been following this thread closely and it's been incredibly helpful! I just bought my first electric vehicle and was completely confused about how the tax credit would work. What really clicked for me was understanding that this is a "nonrefundable" credit that reduces your tax liability rather than just adding money to your refund. I was initially thinking I'd get $7,500 on top of whatever refund I was expecting, but now I see it's more about how much I actually owe in taxes. The complexity around vehicle qualification is honestly intimidating - between assembly location, battery components, income limits, and all the recent rule changes. But reading everyone's experiences and advice has given me a clear roadmap: check my vehicle's qualification status with the VIN, look at last year's "Total Tax" line to estimate my liability, and keep detailed documentation. I'm particularly grateful for the warnings about software bugs and the recommendation to cross-check calculations manually. As someone who usually does their own taxes, I was planning to just trust TurboTax, but it sounds like the EV credit is complex enough to warrant extra verification. Thanks to everyone who shared their real-world experiences and practical tips - this community is exactly what newcomers like me need when navigating these confusing tax situations!

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Paolo Moretti

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Welcome to the community, Lucas! Your summary really captures the learning journey that many of us newcomers have gone through with this EV credit. I'm also pretty new here and found myself in the exact same position - excited about the $7,500 but completely lost on how it actually works. The "nonrefundable credit" concept was definitely the biggest lightbulb moment for me too. It's counterintuitive when you first hear about it, but once you understand that it's about reducing what you owe rather than adding to what you get back, everything else starts to make sense. Your point about the qualification complexity is so true - I had no idea there were so many moving parts until I started researching. The assembly location and battery sourcing requirements seem to change which vehicles qualify almost monthly! I'm definitely taking the advice about double-checking software calculations to heart. Even though I'm comfortable with basic tax prep, the EV credit seems like one of those areas where the stakes are high enough to warrant extra caution. Better to spend a little extra time verifying than to miss out on thousands of dollars or make a costly mistake. Thanks for sharing your perspective - it's reassuring to know other newcomers are going through the same learning process!

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I've dealt with this exact scenario multiple times, and the good news is that your covered call should definitely qualify for long-term capital gains treatment based on what you've described. The key factors for qualification with short-term options (less than 30 days) are: 1) The option was out-of-the-money when written, and 2) The strike price meets the benchmark requirements for your stock's price range. Since you mentioned it was OTM when written, you should be fine on both counts. What many people don't realize is that the qualification is "locked in" at the time you write the option. The fact that the stock has moved closer to the strike price afterward is completely irrelevant for tax purposes. The IRS looks at the conditions when the option was created, not what happens during its life. I wouldn't recommend buying back the call just for tax reasons - that would likely result in an unnecessary loss with no tax benefit. Your shares have been held for years, so they clearly meet the long-term holding period, and your qualified covered call preserves that treatment. One tip: definitely document the stock price, strike price, and exact date when you wrote the call. I keep a simple spreadsheet for all my options trades with these details, which has been invaluable when my broker's 1099 needed corrections. Most brokers handle basic covered call tax treatment correctly, but having your own records gives you confidence and backup documentation.

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This is incredibly helpful information, thank you! As someone new to covered calls on long-term holdings, I really appreciate the clarification that qualification is "locked in" at the time of writing - that takes away a lot of my anxiety about the stock price movements since then. Your point about keeping detailed records makes perfect sense. I'm definitely going to start a spreadsheet like you mentioned. For the benchmark requirements you referenced, is there a specific IRS publication or resource where I can find the exact percentages for different stock price ranges? I want to make sure I'm calculating this correctly for future reference. Also, when you've had to make corrections to broker 1099s, was it typically because they reported qualified covered calls as short-term gains, or were there other common errors you encountered? I'd rather be prepared for what might go wrong so I can catch it early. Thanks again for sharing your experience - it's really reassuring to hear from someone who has navigated this successfully multiple times!

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Freya Ross

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You can find the specific benchmark requirements in IRS Publication 550, Chapter 4 (Investment Income and Expenses), under the section on "Qualified Covered Calls." The percentages are: for stocks $25.01-$60, strike must be within 85% of stock price; $60.01-$150 needs 90%; $150.01+ needs 95%. There are also some special rules for stocks under $25. Regarding broker errors, the most common issue I've seen is brokers reporting the entire transaction as short-term when shares get called away, even when the covered call was qualified. They sometimes miss the qualification and just apply the default short-term treatment for options assignments. Less commonly, I've seen them incorrectly calculate the holding period start date when there were multiple option positions on the same stock. The key is to verify that your broker correctly identifies the call as "qualified" in their records. If they get that wrong, everything downstream gets messed up. Most major brokers have gotten better at this over the years, but it's still worth double-checking, especially for your first few covered call transactions.

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Logan Chiang

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I've been in a very similar situation and can confirm what others have said - your covered call should qualify for long-term capital gains treatment. The most important thing to understand is that qualification is determined at the moment you write the option, not based on subsequent price movements. Since you wrote an out-of-the-money call with less than 30 days to expiration, and you've held the underlying shares for years, you should maintain long-term status even if the shares get called away. The fact that the stock has moved closer to your strike price is actually irrelevant for tax purposes. I'd strongly advise against buying back the call just to avoid potential tax issues - that would likely result in an unnecessary loss for no tax benefit. Your situation sounds like a textbook qualified covered call case. One practical tip: make sure to keep records of the exact stock price, strike price, and date when you wrote the call. While most brokers handle covered call tax reporting correctly these days, having your own documentation gives you confidence and serves as backup if any adjustments are needed on your tax return. You're in good shape tax-wise, so don't overthink it!

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StarStrider

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This is exactly what I needed to hear! As someone who's been nervous about my first covered call on long-term holdings, all these responses have been incredibly reassuring. It sounds like the consensus is clear - qualification is locked in when you write the option, and since mine was OTM with less than 30 days to expiration, I should be good for LTCG treatment. I'm definitely going to start keeping detailed records like everyone suggested. It seems like having your own documentation is crucial, especially since broker tax reporting can sometimes be incorrect for these more complex scenarios. One quick question for the group - when documenting the "exact stock price" when writing the call, should I use the closing price from that day, or the actual price at the moment I placed the trade? I want to make sure I'm recording the right reference point for the qualification determination. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - this community has been incredibly helpful!

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