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I used to work in payroll. The backslash in box 14 is sometimes used for state-specific items. What state do you work in? Some states have mandatory disability insurance or other programs that get reported there. Check your state's tax department website - they often have guides explaining common box 14 entries. For example, California has SDI (State Disability Insurance), New Jersey has SUI (State Unemployment Insurance) contributions, etc.
Not OP but I'm having the same issue in Pennsylvania. My box 14 has \LST with an amount of $52. Any idea what that might be?
@Owen Jenkins LST typically stands for Local "Services Tax in" Pennsylvania. It s'a flat annual tax that many PA municipalities charge employees who work within their boundaries. The amount is usually around $52 per year, which matches what you re'seeing. You d'select Local "taxes or" Other "state and local taxes in" your tax software. This tax is generally not deductible on your federal return, but you might need to report it depending on your specific local tax situation.
I work in manufacturing payroll and can offer some insight here. The backslash symbol (\) in box 14 is often used by manufacturing companies for safety-related deductions or equipment rentals, which matches what you mentioned about the $873 amount and your biweekly deductions. Since you figured out it's likely safety equipment rental based on your bank statements, you're on the right track. In TurboTax, this would typically go under "Other" in the box 14 dropdown, and you can describe it as "Safety equipment rental" when prompted. The key thing to remember is that if this was deducted pre-tax from your paychecks (which equipment rentals usually are), it already reduced your taxable wages shown in box 1 of your W2. So you're not getting an additional deduction - you're just properly categorizing what the employer reported for informational purposes. If you want to be 100% certain, a quick call to your company's payroll department would confirm this, but based on the amount and your industry, safety equipment rental is very likely what the \ symbol represents.
Don't forget to check if your state has any inheritance tax too! Federal and state tax treatments can be different. I'm in Pennsylvania and was surprised to learn we have an inheritance tax even when there's no federal estate tax due. Cars might be exempt depending on your state, but it's worth checking.
This is a great question that highlights how inheritance tax rules can create unexpected situations! Just to add one more consideration - make sure you keep detailed records of everything: the loan payoff amount, sale documentation, and whatever evidence you can gather for the car's fair market value at the time of inheritance. Since you sold relatively quickly after inheriting, you might also want to consider whether there were any additional costs involved in the transfer process (title fees, registration, etc.) that could be added to your basis. These aren't usually large amounts for vehicles, but every bit helps when calculating your actual gain. Also, depending on the total amount of your capital gains for the year, you might want to consider the timing of any other asset sales to manage your overall tax situation. If this puts you over certain thresholds, it could affect other parts of your tax return.
This is really helpful advice about keeping detailed records! I'm curious about those additional costs you mentioned - would things like inspection fees or emissions testing that might be required during the title transfer also count toward the basis? I inherited my grandfather's old truck last year and had to get it inspected and do some minor repairs to make it roadworthy before I could sell it. I kept all the receipts but wasn't sure if they were relevant for tax purposes.
Anyone else feel like the government is just trying to squeeze more tax money out of regular people with these new 1099-K rules? Most people using Venmo and CashApp are just normal folks splitting bills, not businesses trying to evade taxes! š”
It's not really about taxing more people - it's about closing a reporting gap. People who earn income through these platforms SHOULD be paying taxes, just like income from any other source. The problem is the implementation is causing confusion between actual income vs. personal transfers. What they should've done is create clearer guidelines and better education before implementing the lower threshold. The apps themselves have been improving their systems to help distinguish personal from business transactions, which helps.
This is such a timely question! I went through the same panic last year when I first heard about the 1099-K changes. Here's what I learned after doing a lot of research and talking to a tax professional: The $600 threshold only applies to payments you RECEIVE that are marked as "goods and services" - not personal transfers like splitting dinner bills or paying rent to roommates. So if you're mostly sending money TO friends rather than receiving it FROM customers, you're probably fine. For the money you received from selling stuff on Facebook Marketplace, you'll only owe taxes if you made a profit. If you sold your old couch for $200 but originally paid $500 for it, that's actually a loss and not taxable income. My suggestion is to go through your transaction history ASAP and categorize everything: - Personal transfers (splitting bills, paying friends back) - Sales where you lost money (sold for less than you paid) - Actual profit from sales Keep screenshots and receipts as documentation. The IRS isn't trying to tax you on money that was never really income in the first place, but having good records will save you stress if questions come up later. Don't panic - most casual users aren't going to owe anything significant even if they do get a 1099-K!
This is really helpful, thank you! I think I'm in a similar boat - most of my transactions are sending money TO friends rather than receiving it. But I did sell a few things on Facebook Marketplace this year. One question - how do I prove what I originally paid for something if I don't have the receipt anymore? Like I sold my old gaming console for $180 but I bought it like 3 years ago and definitely don't have that receipt. Can I just estimate based on what it cost new at the time, or do I need actual documentation? Also, when you say "keep screenshots" - do you mean of the actual Venmo/CashApp transactions, or something else? I want to make sure I'm documenting the right stuff in case I do get audited later.
I went through an audit for this exact situation about 3 years ago, so I can share what actually happened. I had been filing HOH while living with my grandmother and supporting my two kids. The IRS selected my return for review (I think because my income seemed low for HOH status). They requested documentation showing I was maintaining a household for my qualifying dependents. I provided: - Bank statements showing regular payments to my grandmother for "rent" - Grocery receipts (I had saved most of them) - Utility bills that showed I was paying the electric and internet - School records showing my kids lived at that address - Medical records showing I was taking my kids to appointments The auditor explained that they needed to verify I was paying more than half of the household expenses for me and my kids. Since I was paying $600/month to my grandmother plus utilities and groceries, and my kids' total support was clearly more than half from me, I qualified. The key was having some documentation, even if informal. The auditor didn't care that I didn't own the house - they just wanted proof I was financially responsible for maintaining the household where my qualifying dependents lived. The audit took about 4 months but resulted in no changes to my return. Start keeping better records now if you're worried - even simple things like taking photos of receipts with your phone can help establish a pattern of support.
This is super helpful to hear from someone who actually went through it! I'm curious - when they asked for proof of paying "more than half" of household expenses, did they give you a specific dollar amount you needed to reach, or was it more about showing a pattern of consistent contributions? I'm trying to figure out if there's like a magic number I should be hitting each month or if it's more about demonstrating ongoing financial responsibility for my portion of the household.
Great question! The auditor didn't give me a specific dollar threshold to meet. Instead, they calculated what it would cost to maintain the portion of the household that my kids and I occupied, then compared that to what I was actually contributing. Here's how they broke it down: They estimated the fair rental value of the bedrooms we used plus our share of common areas (like if we were 3 out of 5 people in the house, we'd use 60% of common spaces). Then they added up actual household expenses - utilities, groceries, maintenance, etc. In my case, my $600 monthly payments plus utilities and groceries totaled more than half of what they calculated as "our portion" of the household costs. The key wasn't hitting a magic number, but showing that my contributions covered more than half of the actual cost of maintaining a home for me and my dependents. The auditor emphasized that it's about demonstrating you're the primary financial provider for your household unit within the larger home. So focus on consistent, documented contributions rather than trying to hit a specific monthly amount. As long as your total contributions exceed half of what it realistically costs to house and support you and your kids, you should be fine.
This is really helpful information from everyone who's shared their experiences! As someone who's been in a similar situation, I wanted to add that it's also worth checking if your state has any specific requirements or interpretations for HOH filing status that might differ from federal guidelines. I discovered that my state tax agency had slightly different documentation requirements during an audit a few years back. While I qualified for federal HOH status living with my parents and supporting my daughter, the state wanted additional proof that I was maintaining a separate household unit within the family home. The lesson I learned is to keep records not just of your financial contributions, but also evidence that you're running an independent household for you and your dependents - things like being the one who takes your kids to school, handling their medical appointments, buying their clothes, etc. This helps establish that you're truly the head of your own household, even if it's located within someone else's property. Also, if your parents are filing their own tax return, make sure they're not claiming any expenses that you're actually paying for. The IRS can cross-reference returns, and you want to avoid any conflicts between what you're claiming and what your parents are deducting.
This is such a great point about state vs federal requirements! I hadn't even considered that there might be differences. Do you happen to know if there's an easy way to check what your specific state requires, or did you have to find out the hard way during your audit? I'm in California and just want to make sure I'm covering all my bases. The federal requirements seem pretty clear from everyone's explanations here, but now I'm wondering if I should be doing anything different for my state return. Thanks for bringing this up - it's definitely something I wouldn't have thought to research on my own!
Dmitry Kuznetsov
Just wanted to point out something about the Simplified Method for folks in this situation. If your 1099-R does change to code 7 (from the disability code 3), AND you made contributions to your pension plan with after-tax dollars, THEN you'll need the Simplified Method Worksheet to figure out what portion of your payments is taxable. If you didn't make any after-tax contributions (most people don't), then the full amount is usually taxable no matter what code is on the form. Code 3 vs Code 7 mainly affects WHERE you report the income on your return, not necessarily HOW MUCH is taxable.
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Ava Thompson
ā¢This is super helpful! I've been trying to figure out if my payments are fully taxable or not. How do I know if I made "after-tax contributions"? I honestly can't remember from 30 years ago when I was working...
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Matthew Sanchez
ā¢Great question! If you made after-tax contributions, they would have been deducted from your paycheck AFTER income taxes were already taken out (so you paid tax on that money when you earned it). Most employer pension plans only accept pre-tax contributions, but some allow after-tax too. Check old pay stubs if you have them - after-tax pension contributions would be listed separately from regular pre-tax retirement deductions. You can also contact your former employer's HR department or the current plan administrator to ask for your contribution history. They should have records showing the breakdown of pre-tax vs after-tax contributions you made over the years. If you can't find any records and you're not sure, it's safer to assume all contributions were pre-tax (which means 100% of your payments are taxable). Most people never made after-tax contributions to employer plans.
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Lindsey Fry
This is such a common source of confusion! I went through something similar when I turned 70 and was still receiving disability payments. Here's what I learned after consulting with a tax professional: At 71, you should definitely verify with your plan administrator whether you've reached your plan's minimum retirement age. Many plans set this at 62 or 65, so at 71 you may have already passed that threshold. If so, your 1099-R should show code 7 instead of code 3, and the payments would be reported as pension income rather than disability income. The key question is whether you made any after-tax contributions to your pension plan during your working years. If you did, then yes, you'd need the Simplified Method Worksheet to calculate the non-taxable portion of each payment. If all your contributions were pre-tax (which is most common), then the entire distribution is taxable regardless. I'd recommend calling your plan administrator first to clarify the minimum retirement age and whether your distribution code should have changed by now. That will help determine the correct way to report this on your return.
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Freya Nielsen
ā¢This is really helpful advice! I'm in a similar situation - 69 and still getting code 3 on my disability 1099-R. I never thought to question whether the code should have changed by now. My plan might have set the minimum retirement age at 65, which would mean I've been reporting this incorrectly for 4 years! @Lindsey Fry - when you consulted with the tax professional, did they mention anything about whether you needed to file amended returns for previous years if the coding was wrong? Or is it something you can just correct going forward?
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